X 



THE 



Bee-Keepers' Guide; 



OR, 



MANUAL OF THE APIARY, 

BY 

A. J. fcoOK, 

Professor of Entomology 

IN THE 

MICHIGAN STATE AGRICULTURAL COLLEGE. 



EIGHTH EDITION, 

REVISED, ENLARGED, MOSTLY RE-WRITTEN AND 
BEAUTIFULLY ILLUSTRATED. 



rriEiisrTiH: thousait 



LANSING, MICHIGAN, 
1883. 




.CT7 



Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1883, by 

ALBERT J. COOK, 

In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D. C. 



Printed by Myers Bros., Columbus, Ohio. 



TO THE 

REVEREND L. L. LANGSTROTH, 

THE 

INVENTOR OF THE MOVABLE FRAME HIVE, 

THE 

HUBER OF AMERICA, AND ONE OF THE GREATEST 

MASTERS OF PURE AND APPLIED " SCIENCE, AS 

RELATING TO APICULTURE, IN THE WORLD; 

THIS MANUAL IS GRATEFULLY DEDICATED 

BY 

THE AUTHOR. 



PREFACE. 



In 1876, in response to a desire frequently expressed by 
my apiarian friends, principally my students, I published an 
edition of 3,000 copies of the little unpretending "Manual of 
the Apiary." This was little more than the course of lectures 
which I gave annually at the College. In less than two years 
this was exhausted, and the second edition, enlarged, revised, 
and much more fully illustrated, was issued. So great was 
the sale that in less than a year this was followed by the third 
and fourth editions, and, in less than two years, the fifth 
edition (seventh thousand) was issued. 

In each of the two following years, another edition was de- 
manded. In each of these editions the book has been enlarged, 
changes made and illustrations added, that the work might keep 
pace with our rapidly advancing art. 

So great .has been the demand for this work, not only at 
home and in Europe, but even in more distant lands, and so 
great has been the progress of apiculture — so changed the 
views and methods of our best bee-keepers, that the author 



vi. Preface. 

feels Avarranted in thoroughly revising and entirely recasting 
this eighth edition (tenth thousand). Not only is the work 
re-written, but much new matter, and many new and costly 
illustrations are added. 

In this edition, the author also assumes the duties of pub- 
lisher. In bidding adieu to the old publisher, I Avish pub- 
licly to express my high appreciation, and deep sense of obli- 
gation for the able manner in which Mr. Newman has per- 
formed his share of the work. I shall still hope for his 
wise counsel and advice, from which I shall surely profit in 
the future as in the past. For this, as also for the able opin- 
ions of many other of the first apiarists of America and 
Europe, I wish to express most grateful acknowledgments. 

It is the desire and determination of the author that this 
AA 7 ork shall continue to be the exponent of the most improved 
apiculture ; and no pains will be spared, that each succeeding 
edition may embody the latest improvements and discoveries 
Avrought out by the practical man and the scientist, as gleaned 
from the excellent home and foreign apiarian and scientific 
periodicals. A. J. COOK. 

State Agricultural College, Laming, Mich., April, 1883. 



CONTENTS. 



INTRODUCTION. 

PAGE 

Who May Keep Bees 1 

Specialists 1 

Amateurs 1 

Who are Specially Interdicted 2- 

Inducements to Bee-Keeping 2 

Recreation 2 

Profits 3 

Excellence as an Amateur Pursuit 3 

Adaptation to Women 5 

Improves the Mind and the Observation 7 

Yields Delicious Food 7 

Adds to the Nation's Wealth 8 

YVhat Successful Bee-keeping Requires 8 

Mental Effort 8 

Experience Necessary 8 

Learn from Others 9 

Aid From Conventions .*. 9 

Aid from Bee Publications 9 

American Bee Journal 9 

Gleanings in Bee Culture 10 

Bee-Keepers' Magazine 11 

Bee-Keepers' Exchange 11 

Bee-Keepers' Guide 11 

Kansas Bee-Keeper 11 

The California Apiarist ." 11 

Books for the Apiarist 11 

Langstroth on the Honey-Bee 11 

Quinby's Mysteries of Bee-Keeping 12 

King's Text-Book 12 

A B C of Bee Culture 12 



x. Contents. 

PAGE 

Character of the Hive 122 

The Bottom Board 125 

The Alighting Board 126 

The Cover of the Hive 127 

The Frames 130 

How te Construct the Frames 132 

A Block for making Frames 134 

Cover for Frames 135 

Division Board 136 

The Huber Hive 137 

Observing Hive '. 141 

Apparatus for Procuring Comb Honey 141 

Surplus Comb Honey in Sections 142 

Requisites of Good Sections 142 

Description 142 

How to place Sections in Position 145 

Sections in Frames 145 

Foot Power Saw 150 

CHAPTER VI. 

Position and Arrangement of Apiary 152 

Position 152 

Arrangement of Grounds 152 

Preparation for each Colony 153 

CHHPTER VII. 

To Transfer Bees 158 

The Old Method 159 

Hunting Bee-Trees 162 

CHAPTER VIII. 

Feeding and Feeders 163 

How much to Feed 163 

What to Feed 164 

How to Feed 164 

Smith Feeder 167 

CHAPTER IX. 

Queen Rearing 169 

. How to Rear Queens 169 

Nuclei 172 

Queen Lamp Nursery 176 



Contents. xi. 

PAGE 

Shall we Clip the Queen's Wing? 177 

Fertile Workers 179 

Queen Register, or Apiary Register 180 

CHAPTER X. 

Increase of Colonies '. 182 

Swarming 182 

Hiving Swarms 185 

To Prevent Second Swarms 188 

To Prevent Swarming 188 

How to Multiply Colonies with the best Results 189 

Divide 190 

How to Divide 192 

CHAPTER XI. 

Italians and Italianizing 192 

The new Races of Bees 196 

What Bees shall we Keep ? 196 

How to Italianize •. 196 

How to Introduce a Queen 196 

Valentine's Comb Stand 200 

To get our Italian Queens 201 

To Ship Queens .^. 2Q2 

Viallon Candy 203 

The Good Candy a 203 

Preparations to Ship 204 

To Move Colonies 204 

CHAPTER XII. 

Extracting, and the Extractor 205 

Honey Extractor 205 

Use of Extractor : 208 

When to use the Extractor 209 

How to Extract 211 

To Keep Extracted Honey 212 

CHAPTER XIII. 

Working for Comb Honey 214 

Points to Consider 214 

To Secure Strong Colonies 214 

To avoid the Swarming Fever 215 



xii. Contents. 

PAGB 

Adjustment of Sections 216 

Getting Bees into Sections 216 

Removal of Sections 217 

CHAPTER XIV. 

Handling Bees 218 

The Best Bee- Veil 219 

To quiet Bees 220 

Bellows Smoker 221 

The Quinby Smoker 222 

Chloroform 223 

To Cure Stings 223 

The Sweat Theory 224 

The Bee-Tent 224 

CHAPTER XV. 

Comb Foundation 226 

History 226 

American Foundation 227 

The Press for Foundation 229 

How Foundation is Made 230 

To Secure Wax 230 

Use of Foundation 231 

To fasten the Foundation 233 

Wired Frames'. 235 

Methods r 236 

CHAPTER XVI. 

Marketing Honey 239 

How to invigorate the Market 239 

Preparation for Market 240 

Extracted Honey 240 

How to Tempt the Consumer 241 

Comb-Honey 243 

Rules to be Observed 243 

Marketing Bees 245 

Selling Queens 245 

Selling Bees by the Pound 246 

Vinegar from Honey 246 

Fairs and the Market.... 246 

What Should we Have? 247 

Effects of Such Exhibits 248 



Contents. xiii. 

CHAPTER XVII. 

PAGE 

Honey Plants 249 

Real Honey Dew 252 

Sweet Sap and Juices 253 

"What are the Valuable Honey Plants? 254 

Description with Practical Remarks 258 

March Plants 259 

April Plants 259 

May Plants 261 

June Plants ♦.. 266 

July Plants 278 

August and September Plants 288 

Books on Botany 291 

Practical Conclusions 291 

CHAPTER XVIII. 

Wintering Bees 293 

The causes of Disastrous "Wintering 293 

The Requisite to Safe Wintering— Good Food 294 

Secure Late Breeding 295 

To Secure and Maintain the Proper Temperature 296 

Box for Packing t 296 

Chaff Hives 298 

Rules for Their Use 299 

"Wintering in Bee House 300 

Wintering in Cellar .• •. 301 

Burying Bees, or Clamps : 303 

Spring Dwindling 304 

CHAPTER XIX. 

The House Apiary and Bee House 305 

Bee Houses 305 

CHAPTER XX. 

Evils That Confront the Apiarist .' .'. 308 

Robbing 308 

Disease i 309 

Foul Brood 309 

Remedies ; 311 

Enemies of Bees 312 

The Bee Moth 312 

History 315 

Remedies 316 



xiv. Contents. 

PAGE 

Two Destructive Beetles 317 

Robber Flies 317 

The Stinging Bug 321 

Bee-Hawk 324 

TachinaFly 325 

Bee-Louse 325 

Ants 327 

The Cow-Killer 328 

The Praying Mantis 328 

• Blister Beetles 329 

Wasps ! 330 

Spiders 330 

The King Bird 330 

The Toads :', 331 

Mice 331 

Sinews 332 

CHAPTER XXI. 

Calendar and Axioms 333 

Work for Different Months 333 

January 333 

February 333 

March 333 

April 334 

May 334 

June 334 

July 334 

August 334 

September 335 

October 335 

November 335 

December 335 

Axioms 336 



INTRODUCTION. 



WHO MAY KEEP BEES. 

SPECIALISTS. 

Any person who is cautious, observing, and prompt to do 
whatever the needs of his business require, with no thought 
of delay, may make apiculture a specialty with almost certain 
prospects of success. He must also be willing to work with 
Spartan energy during the busy season, and must persist, 
though sore discouragement, and even dire misfortune, essay 
to thwart his plans and rob him of his coveted gains. I make 
no mention of capital to begin with, or territory on which to 
locate ; for men of true metal — men whose energy of mind 
and body bespeak success in advance — will solve these ques- 
tions long before their experience and knowledge warrant their 
assuming the charge of large apiaries. 

AMATEURS'. 

Apiculture, as an avocation, may be safely recommended to 
those of any business or profession who possess the above 
named qualities and control a little space for their bees, either 
a yard a few rods from street and neighbor, or a flat roof where 
hives may securely rest (C. F. Muth, of Cincinnati, keeps his 
bees very successfully on the top of his store, in the very heart 
of the city), and who are able to devote a little time, when re- 
quired, to the care of their bees. The amount of time will of 
course vary with the number of colonies kept, but with proper 
management this time may be given at any period of the day 
or week, and thus not interfere with regular business. Thus 
residents of country, village, or city, male or female, who may 
wish to associate with and study natural objects, and add to 



2 Introduction. 

their income and pleasure, Avill find here an ever waiting oppor- 
tunity. To ladies, shut out from fresh air and sunshine till 
pallor and languor point sadly to departing health and vigor, 
and to men whose business precludes air and exercise, apicul- 
ture cannot be too highly recommended as an avocation. 

WHO ARE SPECIALLY INTERDICTED. 

There are a few people whose systems seem to be specially 
susceptible to the poison intruded with the bee's sting. Some- 
times such persons, if even stung on the foot, will be so thor- 
oughly poisoned that their eyes will swell so they cannot see, 
and they will suffer with fever for days, and, very rarely, individ- 
uals are so sensitive to this poison that a bee-sting proves fatal. 
I hardly need say that such people should never keep bees. 
Many persons, among whom were the noted Klein and Gunther, 
are at first very susceptible to the poison, but if spurred on by 
their enthusiasm they persist they will soon become so inoculated 
that they experience no serious injury from the stings. It is 
a well-recognized fact that each succeeding sting is less power- 
ful to work harm. Every bee-keeper is almost sure to receive 
an occasional sting, though with the experienced these are very 
rare and occasion neither fear nor anxiety. 

INDUCEMENTS TO BEE-KEEPING. 

RECREATION. 

Among the attractive features of apiculture, I mention the 
pleasure which it offers its votaries. There is a fascination 
about the apiary which is indescribable. Nature is always 
presenting' 1 the most pleasurable surprises to those on the alert 
to receive them, and among the insect hosts, especially bees, 
the instincts and habits are so inexplicable and marvelous that 
the student of this department of nature never ceases to meet 
with exhibitions that move him, not less with wonder than with 
admiration. Thus bee-keeping affords most wholesome rec- 
reation, especially to any who love to look upon the book of 
nature and study the marvelous pages she is ever waiting to 
present. To such, the very fascination of their pursuit is of 
itself a rich reward for the time and labor expended. I doubt 
if there is any other class of manual laborers who engage in 



Inducements to Bee-Keeping. 3 

their business, and dwell upon it, with the same fondness as do 
bee-keepers. Indeed, to meet a scientific bee-keeper is to meet 
an enthusiast. A thorough study of the wonderful economy 
of the hive must, from its very nature, go hand-in-hand with 
delight and admiration. I once asked an extensive apiarist, 
who was also a farmer, why he kept bees. The answer was 
characteristic : ' ' Even if I could not make a good deal the 
most money with my bees, I should still keep them for the real 
pleasure they bring me." But yesterday I asked the same 
question of Prof. Daniels, President of the Grand Rapids 
schools, whose official duties are very severe. Said he : " For 
the restful pleasure which I receive in their management." I 
am very sure that were there no other inducement than that 
of pleasure, I should be slow to part with these models of in- 
dustry whose marvelous instincts and wondrous life-habits are 
ever ministering to my delight and astonishment. 

Some years since I received a visit from my old friend and 
college class-mate, O. Clute. We visited the apiary, with 
which he was much pleased. He took the ' ' Manual " home 
with him and at once purchased several colonies of bees. This 
new work brought great pleasure and recreation, which culmin- 
ated in that most fascinating book, " Blessed Bees." Though 
a work of fiction, this can but be read with great pleasure and 
profit, by every person, whether apiarist or not. 

PROFITS. 

The profits of apiculture urge its adoption as a pursuit. 
When we consider the comparatively small amount of capital 
invested and the relatively small amount of labor and expense 
attending its operations, we are surprised at the abundant re- 
ward that is sure to wait upon its intelligent practice. I do 
not wish to be understood here as claiming that labor — yes, 
real, hard, back-aching labor — is not required in the apiary. 
The specialist, with his hundred or more colonies, will have, 
at certain seasons, hard and vigorous work, but this will be 
both pleasant and healthful, and will go hand-in-hand with 
thought, so that brain and muscle will work together. Yet 
this time of hard, physical labor will only continue for five or 
six months, and for the balance of the year the apiarist has, 
or may have, comparative leisure. Nor do I think that all 
will succeed. The fickle, careless, indolent, heedless man will 



4 Profits of Bee- Keeping. 

as surely fail in apiculture as in any other calling. But I 
repeat, in the light of many years of experience, where accurate 
weight, measure, and counting of change exclude all conjec- 
ture, that there is no manual labor pursuit where the returns 
are so large when compared with the labor and expense involved. 
An intelligent apiarist may invest in bees any spring, in 
Michigan, with the absolute certainty of more than doubling 
his investment the first season ; while a net gain of 400 per 
cent, brings no surprise to the experienced apiarists of our 
state. This of course applies only to a limited number of 
colonies. Nor is Michigan superior to other states as a loca- 
tion for the apiarist. During the past season, the poorest I 
ever knew, our fifteen colonies of bees in the College apiary 
have netted us over $200. In 1876, each colony gave a net 
return of $24.04, while in 1875, our bees gave a profit, above 
all expense, of over 400 per cent, of their entire value in the 
spring. Mr. Fisk Bangs, who graduated at our College one 
year since, purchased last spring seven colonies of bees. The 
proceeds of these seven colonies have more than paid all ex- 
penses, including first cost of bees, in honey sold, while there 
arc now sixteen colonies as clear gain, if we do not count the 
labor, and we need hardly do so as it has in no wise interfered 
with the regular duties of the owner. Several farmers of our 
state who possess good apiaries and good improved farms, 
have told me that their apiaries w r ere more profitable than 
their farms. Who will doubt the profits of apiculture in the 
face of friend Doolittle's experience? He has realized $6,000 
in five years, simply from the honey taken from fifty colonies. 
This $6,000 is in excess of all expenses except his own time. 
Add to this the increase of stocks, and then remember that 
one man can easily care for one hundred colonies, and we have 
a graphic picture of apiarian profits. Bee-keeping made Adam 
Grimm a wealthy man. It brought to Capt. Hetherington 
over $10,000 as the cash receipts of a single year's honey crop. 
It enabled Mr. Harbison, so it is reported, to ship from his 
own apiary eleven car-loads of comb-honey as the product of 
a single season. What greater recommendation has any pur- 
suit 9 Opportunity for money making, even with hardships 
and privations, is attractive and seldom disregarded ; such 
opportunity with labor that brings, in itself, constant delight, 
is surely worthy of attention. 



Exeelle>ice for Amateurs and Women. 5 

EXCELLENCE AS AN AMATEUR PURSUIT. 

Again, there is no business, and I speak from experience, 
that serves so well as an avocation. It offers additional funds 
to the poorly paid, out-door air to the clerk and office-hand, 
healthful exercise to the person of sedentary habits, and superb 
recreation to the student or professional man, and especially 
to him whose life-work is of that dull, hum-drum, routine 
order that seems to rob life of all zest. The labor required in 
keeping bees can, with a little thought and management, be 
so planned, if but few colonies are kept, as not to infringe up- 
on the time demanded by the regular occupation. Indeed, I 
have never been more heartily thanked than by' such persons 
as named above, because. I had called them to consider — which 
usually means to adopt — the pleasing duties of the apiary. 

ADAPTATION TO WOMEN. 

Apiculture may also bring succor to those whom society has 
not been over-ready to favor — our women. Widowed mothers, 
dependent girls, the weak and the feeble, all may find a bless- 
ing in the easy, pleasant and profitable labors of the apiary. 
Of course, women who lack vigor and health can care for but 
very few colonies, and must have sufficient strength to bend 
over and lift the small-sized frames of comb when loaded with 
honey, and to carry empty hives. With the proper thought 
and management, full colonies need never be lifted, nor work 
done in the hot sunshine. Yet right here let me add, and 
emphasize the truth, that only those who will let energetic thought 
and skillful plan, and above all 'promptitude and persistence, make 
up for physical weakness, should enlist as apiarists. Usually a 
stronger body and improved health, the results of pure air, 
sunshine and exercise, will make each successive day's labor 
more easy, and will permit a corresponding growth in the size 
of the apiary for each successive season. One of the most 
noted apiarists, not only in America but in the world, sought 
in bee-keeping her lost health, and found not only health but 
reputation and influence. Some of the most successful apiarists 
in our country are- women. Of these, many were led to adopt 
the pursuit because of waning health, grasping at this as the 
last and successful weapon with which to vanquish the grim 
monster. 



6 Adaptation to Women. 

That able apiarist, and terse writer on apiculture, Mrs. L. 
Harrison, states that the physicians told her that she could not 
live ; but apiculture did for her what the physicians could not do, 
restored her to health, and gave her such vigor that she has 
been able to work a large apiary for years. 

Said "Cyula Linswik" — whose excellent and beautifully 
written articles have so often charmed the readers of the bee 
publications, and who has had five years of successful experi- 
ence as an apiarist — in a paper read before our Michigan Con- 
vention of March, 1877: "I would gladly purchase exemp- 
tion from in-door work, on washing-day, by two days' labor 
among the bees, and I find two hours labor at the ironing-table 
more fatiguing than two hours of the severest toil the apiary 
can exact." I repeat, that apiculture offers to many women 
not only pleasure but profit. 

Mrs. L. B. Baker, of Lansing, Michigan, who has kept bees 
very successfully for four years, read an admirable paper be- 
fore the same Convention, in which she said : "But I can 
say, having tried both, (keeping boarding-house and apicul- 
ture, ) I give bee-keeping the preference, as more profitable, 
healthful, independent and enjoyable. * '* * I find the 
labors of the apiary more endurable than working over a cook- 
stove in-doors, and more pleasant and conducive to health. 
* * * I believe that many of our delicate and invalid 
ladies would find renewed vigor of body and mind in the labors 
and recreations of the apiary. * * * By beginning in 
the early spring, when the weather was cool and the work 
light, I became gradually accustomed to out-door labor, and 
by midsummer found myself as well able to endure the heat of 
the sun as my husband, who has been accustomed to it all his 
life. Previously, to attend an open-air picnic was to return 
with a head-ache. * * * My own experience in the 
apiary has been a source of interest and enjoyment far exceed- 
ing ray anticipations." Although Mrs. Baker commenced 
with but two colonies of bees, her net profits the first season 
were over $100 ; the second year but a few cents less than 
$300; and the third year about $250. "The proof of the 
pudding is in the eating;" and such words as those above show 
that apiculture offers special inducements to our sisters to be- 
come either amateur or professional apiarists. 



Affords Mental Discipline. 7 

IMPROVES THE MIND AND THE OBSERVATION. 

Successful apiculture demauds close and accurate observa- 
tion, and hard, continuous thought and study, and this too, 
in the wondrous realm of nature. In all this, the apiarist re- 
ceives manifold and substantial advantages. In the cultiva- 
tion of the habit of observation, a person becomes constantly 
more able, useful, and susceptible to pleasure — results which 
also follow as surely on the habit of thought and study. It is 
hardly conceivable that the wide-awake apiarist, who is so 
frequently busy with his wonder-working comrades of the 
hive, can ever be lonely, or feel time hanging heavily on his 
hands. The mind is occupied, and there is no chance for 
ennui. The whole tendency of such thought and study, where 
nature is the subject, is to refine the taste, elevate the desires, 
and ennoble manhood. Once get our youth, with their sus- 
ceptible natures, engaged in such wholesome study, and we 
shall have less reason to fear the vicious tendencies of the street, 
or the luring vices and damning influences of the saloon. Thus 
apiculture spreads an intellectual feast that even the old 
philosophers would have coveted ; furnishes the rarest food for 
the observing faculties, and best of all, by keeping its votaries 
face to face with the matchless creations of the All Father, 
must draw them toward Him "who went about doing good," 
and " in whom there was no guile." 

YIELDS DELICIOUS FOOD. 

A last inducement to apiculture, certainly not unworthy of 
mention, is the offerings it brings to our tables. Health, yea, 
our very lives, demand that we should eat sweets. It is a 
truth that our sugars, and especially our commercial syrups, 
are so adulterated as to be often poisonous. The apiary, in 
lieu of these, gives us one of the most delicious and whole- 
some of sweets, which has received merited praise, as food fit 
for the gods, from the most ancient time till the present day. 
To ever have within reach the beautiful, immaculate comb, 
or the equally grateful nectar, right from the extractor, is 
certainly a blessing of no mean order. We may thus supply 
our families and friends with a most necessary and desirable 
food element, and this with no cloud of fear from vile, poison- 
ous adulterations. 



8 Contributes to the Nation's Wealth. 

ADDS TO THE NATION'S WEALTH. 

An excellent authority places the number of colonies of bees 
in the United States, in 1881, at 3,000,000, and the honey 
production, for the year, at more than 200,000,000 lbs. The 
production for that year was not up to the average, and yet 
the cash value of the year's honey crop exceeds $30,000,000. 
We may safely add as much more as the value of the increase 
of colonies, and we have a grand total of $60,000,000, nearly 
enough to pay the interest on the national debt, were the 
bonds all refunded. And yet all this is but gathered nectar, 
which would go to waste were it not for the apiarist and his 
bees. We thus save to the country, that which would other- 
wise be a total loss. Apiculture then, in adding so immensely 
to the productive capital of the country, is worthy, as an art, 
to receive the encouragement and fostering care of the State. 
And the thought that he is performing substantial service to 
the State, may well add to the pleasure of the apiarist, as he 
performs his daily round of labor. 



WHAT SUCCESSFUL BEE-KEEPING REQUIRES. 

MENTAL EFFORT. 

No one should commence this business who is not willing to 
read, think, and study. To be sure, the ignorant and un- 
thinking may stumble on success for a time, but sooner or 
later failure will set her seal upon their efforts. Those of our 
apiarists who have studied the hardest, observed the closest, 
and thought the deepest, have even passed the late terrible 
winters with but slight loss. 

Of course the novice will ask, "How and what shall I 
study?" 

EXPERIENCE NECESSARY. 

Nothing will take the place of real experience. Commence 
with a few colonies, even one or two is best, and make the 
bees your companions at every possible opportunity. Note 
every change, whether of the bees, their development, or 
work, and then by earnest thought strive to divine the cause. 



Requisites to Success. 9 

LEAEN FROM OTHEES. 

Great good will also come from visiting other apiarists. 
Note their methods and apiarian apparatus. Strive by con- 
versation to gain new and valuable ideas, and gratefully adopt 
Avhatever is found, by comparison, to be an improvement upon 
your own past system and practice. 

AID FROM CONVENTIONS. 

Attend conventions whenever distance and means render 
this possible. Here you will not only be made better by social 
intercourse with those whose occupation and study make them 
sympathetic and congenial, but you will find a real conserva- 
tory of scientific truths, valuable hints, and improved instru- 
ments and methods. And the apt attention — rendered possible 
by your own experience — which you will give to essays, dis- 
cussions, and private conversations, will so enrich your mind 
that you will return to your home encouraged and able to do 
better work, and to achieve higher success. I have attended 
nearly all the meetings of the Michigan Convention, and never 
yet when I was not well paid for all trouble and expense by 
the many, often very valuable, suggestions which I received. 

AID FROM BEE PUBLICATIONS. 

Every apiarist should take and read at least one of the many 
excellent bee publications that are issued in our country. It 
has been suggested that Francis Huber's blindness was an 
advantage to him, as he thus had the assistance of two pairs 
of eyes, his wife's and servant's, instead of one. So, too, of 
the apiarist who reads the bee publications. He has the aid 
of the eyes, and the brains, of hundreds of intelligent and 
observing bee-keepers. Who is it that squanders his money 
on worse than useless patents and fixtures ? He who ' ' cannot 
afford" to take a bee-journal. 

It would be invidious and uncalled for to recommend any 
one of these valuable papers to the exclusion of the others. 
Each has its peculiar excellences, and all who can may well 
secure all of them to aid and direct their ways. 

American Bee Journal. — This, the oldest bee paper, and the 
only weekly publication devoted exclusively to apiculture in 



10 The Bee-Papers. 

the world, is not only peculiar for its age, but for the ability 
with which it has been managed, with almost no exception, 
even from its first appearance. Samuel Wagner, its founder 
and long its editor, had few superiors in breadth of culture, 
strength of judgment, and practical and historic knowledge of 
apiculture. With what pleasure I remember the elegant, 
really classic, diction of the editorials, the dignified bearing 
and freedom from asperities which marked the old American 
Bee Journal as it made its monthly visits fresh from the editor- 
ial supervision of Mr. Samuel Wagner. Some one has said 
that there is something in the very atmosphere of a scholarly 
gentleman that impresses all who approach him. I have 
often thought, as memory reverted to the old Journal, or as I 
have re-read the numbers which bear the impress of Mr. 
Wagner's superior learning, that, though the man is gone, the 
stamp of his noble character and classical culture is still on 
these pages, aiding, instructing, elevating, all who are so for- 
tunate as to possess the early volumes of this periodical. I 
am also happy to state that the Journal is again in good hands. 
Mr. Newman is an experienced editor, and a man of excellent 
judgment. As an editor he has fought adulteration with great 
energy, has done much to exalt the honey market, and has 
given powerful aid in the work of organizing bee-keepers' con- 
ventions. He has an active mind and is quick to lay hold of 
that which will aid the bee-keeper; and when I add that he 
brings to his editorial aid the most able, experienced, and 
educated apiarists of the world, I surely have spoken high but 
just praise of the American Bee Journal, whose enviable repu- 
tation extends even to distant lands. It is edited by Thomas 
G. Newman, at Chicago. 

Gleaning* in Bee Culture. — This periodical makes up for its 
brief history of six years by the vigor and energy which have 
characterized it from the first. Its editor is an active apiarist, 
who is constantly experimenting; a terse, able writer, and 
brimful of good nature and enthusiasm. I am free to say 
that in practical apiculture I am more indebted to Mr. Root 
than to any other one person, except Rev. L. L. Langstroth. 
I also think that, with few exceptions, he has done more for 
the recent advancement of practical apiculture than any other 
person in our country. This sprightly journal is edited by A. 
I. Root, Medina, Ohio. 



Bee-Papers, and Booh. 11 

Bee-Keepers' Magazine. — I have read this periodical less than 
the others, and hence know less of it. It is well edited, and cer- 
tainly has many very able contributors. It is edited by A. J. 
King, New York City. 

Bee-Keepers' Exchange. — -The Exchange is an able journal. 
The four years of its life, and the vigor with which it is con- 
ducted, give promise not only of permanence, but of influence 
as one of the moving forces in the future of apicultural pro- 
gress in this country. It is edited by Houck & Peet, Cana- 
joharie, New York. 

Bee-Keepers Guide. — This paper has been one of the motive 
powers in the advancement of apiculture for the last few years. 
It is edited by an experienced bee-keeper, and is doing its part 
as one of the auxiliaries to apiarian progress in our country. 
It is edited by A. G. Hill, Kendallville, Indiana. 

Kansas Bee-Keeper. — The ability with which this paper is 
■edited, and the able contributions to its pages from many of 
the first bee-keepers in the country, have given it more than a 
state circulation, and entitle it justly to a broader name. It 
is edited by Scovell & Anderson, Columbus, Kansas. 

The California Apiarist. — This, though the youngest of our 
bee-papers, shows the vigor of manhood. It is edited by an 
experienced bee-keeper, and an able writer, and will certainly 
meet a felt need among the bee-keepers of the Golden State. 
Its ability has already pushed it beyond the limits of its own 
state, and it is exerting a wholesome and valuable influence 
among the bee-keepers of the East. It is published by the 
California Apicultural Publishing Co. , Oakland, California. 

BOOKS FOE THE APIARIST. 

Having read very many of the books treating of apiculture, 
both American and foreign, I can freely recommend such a 
course to others. Each book has peculiar excellences, and 
may be read with interest and profit. 

Langstroth on the Honey Bee. — This treatise will ever remain 
a classic in bee-literature. I cannot over-estimate the benefits 
which I have received from the study of its pages. It was a 
high, but deserved, encomium, which J. Hunter, of England, 
in his "Manual of Bee-Keeping," paid to this work: "It is 
unquestionably the best bee-book in the English language." 



12 Books for the Bee-Keeper. 

The style of this work is so admirable, the subject matter so 
replete with interest, and the entire book so entertaining, that 
it is a desirable addition to any library, and no thoughtful, 
studious apiarist can well be without it. It is especially happy 
in detailing the methods of experimentation, and in showing 
with what caution the true scientist establishes principles or 
deduces conclusions. The work is wonderfully free from errors, 
and, had the science and practice of apiculture remained 
stationary, there would have been little need of another work ; 
but as some of the most important improvements in apiculture 
are not mentioned, the book would be a very unsatisfactory 
guide to the apiarist of to-day. 

Qui i ib if* Mysteries of Bee-Keeping. — This is a plain, sensible 
treatise, written by one of America's most successful bee- 
keepers. The work has just been revised by L. C. Root, who 
has fully maintained its excellent character. The admirable 
style and eminent practicality of this work have lost nothing in 
the revision. Mr. Root is the son-in-law of the late Mr. 
Quinby, and was fully advised of the latest views and dis- 
coveries of the great bee-keeper. To these he has added the 
rich results of his own experience, as well as the latest dis- 
coveries and methods of the most progressive apiarists. 

King.< Text-book. — This work is plain, explicit, fresh, and, 
partly owing to its cheapness, has had, certainly, next to 
Langstroth's work, the largest sale of any book of its kind in 
the country. It has been, therefore, especially in former 
years, one of the very first agencies in developing and further- 
ing the interests of bee-keepers. It is not so full as my own 
work, Langstroth's, Quinby's, or the "ABC of Bee Culture," 
but it is an excellent compendium of the art of bee-keeping. 

A B G of Bee-Culture. — This work is by the editor of 
Gleaning* in Bee Culture. It is arranged in the convenient 
form of our cyclopedias, is printed in fine style, on beautiful 
paper, and is well illustrated. I need hardly say that the 
style is pleasing and vigorous. The subject matter is fresh, 
and embodies the most recent discoveries and inventions per- 
taining to bee-keeping. That it may be kept abreast of apiar- 
ian progress, the type is to be kept in position, so that each 
new discovery may be added as soon as made. 

Bees and Honey. — This w r ork is by the editor of the American 
Bee Journal. It is smaller than others, but contains an epitome 



Books for the Bee-Keeper. 13 

of the science and art of bee-culture. Like all of the other 
works it has its peculiar excellences, and may well find a 
place in the library of every progressive apiarist. 

Blessed Bees. — This fascinating romance is full of practical 
information, and contagious enthusiasm. 

FOREIGN PUBLICATIONS. 

The British Bee Journal, as the exponent of apiarian methods 
and practices, is interesting and valuable to American bee- 
keepers. It shows that in many things, as in the method of 
organizing and conducting conventions, so as to make them 
highly conducive to apicultural progress, we have much to 
learn from our brothers in Britain. 

FOREIGN BOOKS. 

Bevan, revised, though but little changed, by Munn, is 
exceedingly interesting, and shows by its able historical chap- 
ters, admirable scientific disquisitions, and frequent quotations 
and references to practical and scientific writers on bees and 
bee-keeping, both ancient and modern, that the writers were 
men of extensive reading and great scientific ability. The 
book is of no practical value to us, but by the student it will 
be read with great interest. ' ' The Apiary, or Bees, Bee-Hives, 
and Bee Culture," by Alfred Neighbour, London, is a fresh, 
sprightly little work, and as the third edition has just appeared, 
is, of course, up with the times. The book is in nice dress, con- 
cise, and very readable, and I am glad to commend it. A less 
interesting wo»k, though by no means without merit, is the 
"Manual of Bee-Keeping," by the late John Hunter, London. 
This is also recent. The "Bee-Keeper's Guide Book," by Tho. 
Wm. Cowen, is a small book of considerable merit. A still 
smaller work, styled '"Modern Bee-Keeping," is published 
under the control of the British Bee-Keepers' Association. 
This is one of the latest books, and would be valued by every 
bee-keeper. The work that will find the largest sale with us of 
any of the foreign books, is Dzierzon's ' ' Rational Bee-Keeping," 
which has just been translated into English. As presenting to 
American readers the practices and methods of German bee- 
keepers, and as the work of one of the great masters, the 
Langstroth of Germany, it can but find a warm welcome on 
this side the Atlantic. 



14 Books for the Bee- Keeper. 

As practical guides, I think these foreign works would 
receive little favor among American apiarists. They are the 
exponents of foreign apiculture, which in method would seem 
clumsy to Americans. In fact, I think I may say that in 
implements, and perhaps I may add methods, the English, 
French, Germans, and Italians, are behind our American 
apiarists, and hence their text-books and journals compare illy 
with ours. I believe the many intelligent foreign apiarists 
who have come to this country and are now honored members 
of our own fraternity, will sustain this position. Foreign 
scientists are ahead of American, but we glean and utilize their 
facts and discoveries as soon as made known. Salicylic acid is 
discovered by a German to be a remedy for foul brood, yet ten 
times as many American as foreign apiarists know of this and 
profit by the knowledge. In practical fields, on the other 
hand, as also in skill and delicacy of invention, we are, I 
think, in advance. So our apiarists have little need to go 
abroad for either books or papers. 

PROMPTITUDE. 

Another absolute requirement of successful bee-keeping, is 
prompt attention to all its varied duties. Neglect is the rock 
on which many bee-keepers, especially farmers, find too often 
that they have wrecked their success. I have no doubt that 
more colonies die from starvation than from all the bee maladies 
known to the bee-keeper. And why is this? Neglect is the 
apicide. I feel sure that the loss each season by absconding 
colonies is almost incalculable, and what must we blame? 
Neglect. The loss every summer by enforced idleness of queen 
and workers, just because room is denied them, is very great. 
Who is the guilty party ? Plainly, neglect. If we would be 
successful, promptitude must be our motto. Each colony of 
bees requires but very little care and attention. Our every 
interest demands that this be not denied, nor even granted 
grudgingly. The very fact that this attention is slight, renders 
it more liable to be neglected.; but this neglect always involves 
loss — often disaster. 

ENTHUSIASM. 

Enthusiasm, or an ardent love of its duties, is a very desir- 
able, if not an absolute, requisite to successful apiculture. 



Requisites to Success. 15- 

To be sure, this is a quality whose growth, with even slight 
opportunity, is almost sure. It only demands perseverance. 
The beginner, without either experience or knowledge, may 
meet with discouragements — unquestionably will. Swarms 
will be lost, colonies will fail to winter, and the young apiarist 
will become nervous, which fact will be noted by the bees with 
great disfavor, and, if opportunity permits, will meet reproof 
more sharp than pleasant. Yet, with persistence, all these 
difficulties quickly vanish. Every contingency will be foreseen 
and provided against, and the myriad of little workers will 
become as manageable and may be fondled as safely as a pet 
dog or cat, and the apiarist will minister to their needs with 
the same fearlessness and self-possession that he does to his 
gentlest cow or favorite horse. Persistence in the face of all 
those discouragements which are so sure to confront inexperience,, 
will surely triumph. In sooth, he who appreciates the beautiful 
and marvelous, will soon grow to love his companions of the- 
hive, and the labor attendant upon their care and management- 
Nor will this love abate till it has kindled into enthusiasm. 

True, there may be successful apiarists who are impelled by 
no warmth of feeling, whose superior intelligence, system, and 
promptitude, stand in lieu of and make amends for absence 
of enthusiasm. Yet I believe such are rare, and certainly 
they work at great disadvantage. 



:p.a.:r,t first. 



NATURAL HISTORY 



OF 



THE HONEY BEE 



NATURAL HISTORY OF THE HONEY-BEE. 



CHAPTER I. 

THE BEE'S PLACE IN THE ANIMAL KINGDOM. 

It is estimated by Heer and other eminent naturalists, that 
there are more than 250,000 species of living animals. It 
will be both interesting and profitable to look in upon this 
vast host, that we may know the position and relationship of 
the bee to all this mighty concourse of life. 

BRANCH OF THE HONEY-BEE. 

The great French naturalist, Cuvier, a friend of Napoleon 
I. , grouped all animals which exhibit a ring structure into one 
branch, appropriately named Articulates, as this term indi- 
cates the jointed or articulated structure which so obviously 
characterizes most of the members of this group. 

The terms joint and articulation, as used here, have a tech- 
nical meaning. They refer not only to the hinge or place of 
union of two parts, but also to the parts themselves. Thus, 
the parts of an insect's legs, as well as the surfaces of union, 
are styled joints or articulations. All the apiarists who have 
examined carefully the structure of a bee, will at once pro- 
nounce it an Articulate. Not only is its body, even from 
head to sting, composed of joints, but by close inspection we 
find the legs, the antenna?, and even the mouth-parts, like- 
wise jointed. 

In this branch we also place the Crustacea — which include 
the rolicking cray-fish or lobster, so indifferent as to whether 
he moves forward, backward or sidewise, the shorter crab, the 
sow-bug, lively and plump, even in its dark, damp home under 
old boards, and the barnacles, which fasten to the bottom of 
ships, so that vessels are often freighted with life without as 
well as within. * 

The worms, too, are Articulates, though in some of these, 
as the leech, the joints are very obscure. The bee, then, 



20 The Branch of the Honey Bee. 

which gives us food, is related to the dreaded tape-worm, with 
its hundreds of joints, which, may haps, robs us of the same 
food after we have eaten it, and to the terrible pork-worm, or 
trichina, which may consume the very muscles we have de- 
veloped in caring for our pets of the apiary. 

In classifying animals, the zoologist has regard not only to 
the morphology — the gross anatomy — but also to the embryol- 
ogy, or style of development before birth or hatching. On 
both embryological and morphological grounds, Huxley and 
other recent authors are more than warranted in separating 
the Vermes, or worms, from the Articulates of Cuvier, . as a 
separate branch. The remaining classes are now included in 
the branch Arthropoda. This term, Avhich means jointed feet, 
is most appropriate, as all of the Insecta and Crustacea have 
jointed feet while the worms are without such members. 

The body-rings of these animals form a skeleton, firm, as in 
the bee and lobster, or more or less soft, as in most larvae. 
This skeleton, unlike that of Vertebrates or back-bone ani- 
mals, to which man belongs, is outside, and thus serves to pro- 
tect the inner, softer, parts, as well as to give them attach- 
ment, and to give strength and solidity to the animal. 

This ring-structure, so beautifully marked in our golden- 
banded Italians, usually makes it easy to separate, at sight, 
animals of this branch from the Vertebrates, with their usually 
bony skeleton ; from the less active Molluscan branch, with 
their soft, sack-like bodies, familiar to us in the snail, the clam, 
the oyster, and the wonderful cuttle-fish — the devil-fish of 
Victor Hugo — with its long, clammy arms, strange ink-bag, 
and often prodigious size ; from the Radiate branch, with its 
elegant star-fish, delicate but gaudy jelly-fish, and coral animals, 
the tiny architects of islands and even continents ; and from 
the lowest, simplest, Protozoan branch, which includes animals 
often so minute that we owe our very knowledge of them to 
the microscope, and so simple that they have been regarded as 
the bond which unites plants with animals. 

THE CLASS OF THE HONEY-BEE. 

Our subject belongs to the class Insecta, which is mainly 
characterized by breathing air usually through a very compli- 
cated, system of air tubes. These tubes (Fig. 1), which are 
constantly branching, and almost infinite in number, are very 



Glass of the Honey Bee. 
Fig. l. 



21 




A Trachea, magnified. 

peculiar in their structure. They are formed of a spiral thread, 
and thus resemble a hollow cylinder formed by closely winding 
a fine wire spirally about a rod, so as to cover it, and then' 

Fig. 2. 




Respiratory Apparatus of Bee, magnified. — After Duncan. 



22 Svb-GUm of the Honey Bee. 

withdrawing the latter, leaving the wire unmoved. Nothing 
is more surprising and interesting than this labyrinth of beau- 
tiful tubes, as seen in dissecting a bee under the microscope. 
I have frequently detected myself taking long pauses, in mak- 
ing dissections of the honey-bee, as my attention would be 
fixed in admiration of this beautiful breathing apparatus. In 
the bee these tubes expand into large lung-like sacks (Fig. 2, 
/), one on each side of the body. Doubtless some of my 
readers have associated the quick movements and surprising 
activity of birds and most mammals with their well-developed 
lungs, so in such animals as the bees, we see the relation be- 
tween this intricate system of air tubes — their lungs — and the 
quick, busy life which has been proverbial of them since the 
earliest time. The class Insecta also includes the spiders, scor- 
pions, with their caudal sting so venomous, and mites, all of 
which have, in lieu of the tubes, lung-like sacks, and the 
myriapods, or thousand-legged worms- — those dreadful creat- 
ures, whose bite, in case of the tropical centipeds, or flat spe- 
cies, has a well-earned reputation of being poisonous and deadly. 

SUB-CLASS OF THE HONEY-BEE. 

The honey-bee belongs to the sub-class Hexapoda, or true 
Insects. The first term is appropriate, as all have in the ima- 
go, or last stage, six legs. Nor is the second term less appli- 
cable, as the word insect comes from the Latin, and. means to 
cut in, and in no other articulates does the ring structure ap- 
pear so marked upon merely a superficial examination. More 
than this, the true insects when fully developed have, unlike 
all other articulates, three well-marked divisions of the body 
(Fig. 2), namely: the head (Fig. 2, a), which contains the 
antennae (Fig. 2, d), the horn-like appendages common to all 
insects ; eyes (Fig. 2, e) and mouth organs ; the thorax (Fig. 
2, 6), which bears the legs (Fig. 2; g), and wings, when they 
are present ; and lastly, the abdomen (Fig. 2, c) which, though 
usually memberless, contains the ovipositor, and, when present, 
the sting. Insects undergo a more striking metamorphosis 
than do most other animals. When first hatched they are worm- 
like and called larvse (Fig. 14), which means masked ; afterward 
they are frequently quiescent, and would hardly be supposed to 
be animals at all. They are then known as pupse, or, as in 
case of bees, nymphs (Fig. 15, g). At last there comes forth 



Order of the Honey Bee. 23 

the imago with compound eyes, antennae and wings. In some 
insects the transformations are said to be incomplete; that is, 
the larva, pupa, and imago differ little except in size, and that 
the latter possesses wings. We see in our bugs, lice, locusts 
and grasshoppers, illustrations of insects with incomplete trans- 
formations. In such cases there is a marked resemblance from 
the egg to the adult. 

As will be seen, by the above description, the spiders, which 
have only two divisions to their bodies, only simple eyes, no 
antennas, eight legs, and no transformations (if we except the 
partial transformations of the mites), and also the myriapods, 
which have no marked divisions of the body, and no compound 
eyes — which are always present in the mature insect — many 
legs and no transformations, do not belong to this sub-class. 

ORDER OF THE HONEY-BEE. 

The honey bee belongs to the order Hymenoptera (from two 
Greek words meaning membrane and wings) , which m also 
includes the wasps, ants, ichneumon-flies, and saw-flies. This 
group contains insects which possess a tongue by which they 
may suck (Fig. 22, t), and strong jaws (Fig. 24) for biting. 
Thus the bees can sip the honeyed sweets of flowers, and also 
gnaw away mutilated comb. They have, besides, four wings, 
and undergo complete transformations. 

There are among insects strange resemblances. Insects of 
one order will show a marked likeness to those of another. 
This is known as mimicry, and sometimes is wonderfully strik- 
ing between very distant groups. Darwin and Wallace sup- 
pose it is a developed peculiarity, not always possessed by the 
ancestors of the animal, and that it comes through the laws of 
variation and natural selection to serve the purpose of protec- 
tion. Right here we have a fine illustration of this mimicry. 
Just the other day I received, through Mr. A. I. Root, an insect 
which he and the person sending it to him supposed to be a bee, 
and he desired to know whether it was a mal-formed honey-bee 
or some other species. This insect, though looking in a general 
way much like a bee, had only two wings, had no jaws, and its 
antenna? were closer together in front and mere stubs. In 
fact, it was no bee at all, but belonged to the order Diptera, 
or two-wing flies. I have received several similar insects, with 
like inquiries. Among Diptera there are several families, as 



24 Mimicry Among Insects. 

the Estridse, or bot-flies, the Syrphidse — a very useful family, 
as the larvae or maggots live on plant-lice — whose members are 
often seen sipping SAveets from flowers, or trying to rob honey 
and other bees — the one referred to above belonged to this 
family — and the Bombyliidae, which in color, form, and hairy 
covering are strikingly like wild and domesticated bees. The 
maggots of these feed on the larvse of various of our wild bees, 
and of course the mother fly must steal into the nests of the 
latter to lay her eggs. So in these cases there is seeming 
evidence that the mimicry may serve to protect these fly-tramps, 
as they steal in to pilfer the coveted sweets or lay the fatal 
eggs. Possibly, too, they may have a protective scent, as I 
have seen them enter a hive in safety, though a bumble-bee 
essaying to do the same found the way barricaded with myriad 
cimeters each with a poisoned tip. 

Some authors have placed Coleoptera, or beetles, as the 
highest of insects, others claim for Lepidoptera, or butterflies 
and "moths, a first place, while others, and with the best of 
reasons, claim for Hymenoptera the highest position. The 
moth is admired for the glory of its coloring and elegance of 
its form, and the beetle for the luster and brilliancy of its 
elytra, or wing-covers; but these insects only revel in nature's 
wealth, and live and die without labor or purpose. Hymenop- 
tera, usually less gaudy, generally quite plain and unattractive 
in color, are yet the most highly endowed among insects. 
They live with a purpose in view, and are the best models of 
industry to be found among animals. Our bees practice a 
division of labor; the ants are still better political economists, 
as they have a specially endowed class in the community who 
are the soldiers, and thus are the defenders of each ant-king- 
dom. Ants also conquer other communities, take their inhabi- 
tants captive, and reduce them to abject slavery — requiring 
them to perform a large portion, and sometimes the whole of 
the labor of the community. Ants tunnel under streams, and in 
the tropics some leaf-eating species have been observed to show 
no mean order of intelligence, as some ascend trees to cut off the 
leafy twigs, while others remain below and cai'ry these branches 
through their tunnels to their under-ground homes. 

The parasitic Hymenoptera are so called because they lay 
their eggs in other insects, that their offspring may have fresh 
meat not only at birth, but so long as they need food, as the 



Bees the Highest of Insects. 25 

insect fed upon generally lives till the young parasite, which 
is working to disembowel it, is full-grown. Thus this steak is 
ever fresh as life itself. These parasitic insects show wondrous 
intelligence, or sense development, in discovering their prey. 
I have caught ichneumon-flies — a family of these parasites — 
boring through an eighth or quarter-inch of solid beech o*r 
maple wood, and upon examination I found the prospective 
victim further on in direct line with, the insect auger, which 
was to intrude the fatal egg. I have also watched ichneumon- 
flies depositing eggs in leaf-rolling caterpillars, so surrounded 
with tough hickory leaves that the fly had to pierce several 
thicknesses to place the egg in its snugly-ensconced victim. 
Upon putting these leaf-rolling caterpillars in a box, I reared, 
of course, the ichneumon-fly and not the moth. And is it instinct 
or reason that enables these flies to gauge the number of their 
eggs to the size of the larva which is to receive them, so that 
there may be no danger of famine and starvation, for true it 
is that while small caterpillars will receive but one egg, 
large ones may receive several. How strange, too, the habits 
of the saw-fly, with its wondrous instruments, more perfect 
than any saws of human workmanship, and the gall-flies, 
whose poisonous stings, as they fasten their eggs to the oak, 
willow; Or other leaves, cause the abnormal growth of food 
for the still unhatched young. The providing and caring for 
their young, which are at first helpless, is peculiar among 
insects, with slight exception, to the Hymenoptera, an d> among 
all animals is considered a mark of high rank. , Such marvels 
of instinct, if we may not call it intelligence, such acumen of 
sense perception, such habits — that must go hand-in-hand with 
the most harmonious of communities known among animals, 
of whatever branch — all these, no less than the compact struc- 
ture, small size and specialized organs of nicest finish, more than 
warrant that grand trio of American naturalists, Agassiz, Dana, 
and Packard, in placing Hymenoptera first in rank among in- 
sects. As we shall detail the structure and habits of the highest 
of the high — the bees— in the following pages, I am sure no one 
will think to degrade the rank of these wonders of the animal 
kingdom. 

FAMILY OF THE HONEY-BEE. 

The honey-bee belongs to the family Apidse, of Leach, 
which includes not only the hive bee but all insects which feed 



26 Family Apidce. 

their helpless young, or larva?, entirely on pollen, or honey and 
pollen. 

The insects of this family have broad heads, elbowed anten- 
nae (Fig. 2, d) which are usually thirteen-jointed in the males, 
and only twelve-jointed in the females. The jaws or mandi- 
bles (Fig. 24 ) are very strong, and often toothed ; the tongue 
or ligula (Fig. 22, t), as also the second jaws or maxillae 
(Fig. 22, mx), one each side of the tongue, are long, though in 
some cases much shorter than in others, and frequently the 
tongue when not in use is folded back, once or more, under 
the head. All the insects of this family have a stiff spine on 
all four of the anterior legs, at the end of the tibia, or the 
third joint from the body, called the tibial spur, and all, ex- 
cept the genus Apis, which includes the honey-bee, in which 
the posterior legs have no tibial spurs, have two tibial spurs 
on the posterior legs. All of this family, except one parasitic 
genus, have the first joint or tarsus of the posterior foot much 
widened, and this together with the bi-oad tibia (Fig. 2, h) is 
hollowed out (Fig. 25, p), forming quite a basin or basket on 
the outer side, in nearly all the species; and generally this 
basket is made deeper by a rim of stiff hairs. These recepta- 
cles or pollen baskets are only found of -course on such indi- 
viduals of each community as gather pollen. A few of the 
Apidae — thieves by nature — cuckoo-like, steal unbidden into 
the nests of others, usually bumble-bees, and here lay their 
eggs. As their young are fed and fostered by another, they 
gather -no pollen, and hence like drone bees need not, and 
have not, pollen baskets. The young of these lazy tramps 
starve out the real insect babies of these homes, by eating 
their food, and in some cases, it is said, being unable like the 
young cuckoos to hurl these rightful children from the nest, 
they show an equal if not a greater depravity by eating them, 
not waiting for starvation to get them out of the way. These 
parasites illustrate mimicry, already described, as they look so 
like the foster mothers of their own young, that unscientific 
eyes would often fail to distinguish them. Probably the 
bumble-bees are no sharper, or they would refuse ingress to 
these merciless vagrants. 

The larva? (Fig. 14) of all insects of this family are maggot- 
like — wrinkled, footless, tapering at both ends, and, as before 
stated, feed upon pollen and honey. They are helpless, and 



Stingless Bees. 27 

thus, all during their babyhood — the larva state — the time 
when all insects are most ravenous, and the only time when 
many insects take food, the time when all growth in size, ex- 
cept such enlargement as is required by egg-development, oc- 
curs, these infant bees have to be fed by their mothers or elder 
sisters. They have a mouth with soft lips, and weak jaws, 
yet it is doubtful if all or much of their food is taken in at 
this opening. There is some reason to believe that they, like 
many maggots — such as the Hessian-fly larvse — absorb much 
of their food through the body walls. From the mouth leads 
the intestine, wlaich has no anal opening. So there are no ex- 
creta . other than gas and vapor. What commendation for 
their food, all capable of nourishment, and thus all assimi- 
lated ! 

To this family belongs the genus of stingless bees, Melipona, 
of Mexico and South America, which store honey not only in 
the hexagonal brood-cells but in great wax reservoirs. They, 
like the unkept hive-bee, build in hollow logs. They are ex- 
ceedingly numerous in each colony, and it has thus been 
thought that there was more than one queen. They are also 
very prodigal of wax, and thus may possess a prospective com- 
mercial importance in these days of artificial comb-foundation. 
In this genus the basal joint of the tarsus is triangular, and 
they have two submarginal cells, not three, to the front wings. 
They are also smaller than our common bees, and have wings 
that do not reach the tip of their abdomens. 

Another genus of stingless bees, the genus Trigona, have 
the wings longer than the abdomens, and their jaws toothed. 
These, unlike the Melipona, are not confined to the New 
World, but are met with in Africa, India, and Australasia. 
These build their combs in tall trees, fastening them, to the 
branches much as does the Apis dorsata, soon to be mentioned. 

Of course insects of the genus Bombus — our common 
bumble-bees — belong to this family. Here the tongue is very 
long, the bee large, and the sting curved, with the barbs very short 
and few. Onty the queen survives the winter. In spring she 
forms her nest under some sod or board, hollowing out a basin 
in the earth, and after storing a mass of bee-bread — probably 
a mixture of honey and pollen — she deposits several eggs in 
the mass. The larvae, as soon as hatched out, eat out thimble- 
shaped spaces, which in time become even larger, and not un- 



28 Species of Wild Bees. 

like in form the queen-cells of our hive-bees. When the bees 
issue from these cells the same are strengthened by wax. 
Later in the season these boarse wax cells become very numer- 
ous. Some may be made as cells and not formed as above. 
The wax is dark, and doubtless contains much pollen, as do 
the cappings and queen-cells of the honey-bees. At first the 
bees are all workers, later queens appear, and still later males. 
All, or nearly all, entomologists speak of two sizes of queen 
bumble-bees, the large and the small. The small appear early 
in the season, and the large late. A student «of our College, 
Mr. N. P. Graham, who last year had a colony of bumble- 
bees in his room the whole season, thinks this an error. He 
believes that the individuals of the Bombus nest exactly cor- 
respond with those of the Apis. The queens, like those of 
bees, are smaller before mating and active laying. May not 
this be another case like that of the two kinds of worker-bees 
which deceived even Huber, an error consequent upon lack of 
careful and prolonged observation ? 

In Xylocopa, or the carpenter-bees, which much resemble 
the bumble-bees, we have a fine example of a boring insect. 
With its strong mandibles or jaws it cuts long tunnels, often 
one or two feet long, in the hardest wood. These burrows are 
divided by chip partitions into cells, and in each cell is left the 
bee-bread and an egg. Species' of Xylocopa often do no slight 
damage by boring into the cornices, window casings, etc. , of 
our houses and othfcr buildings. I have also seen them slit 
long tubular flowers like those of the wild bergamont. I have 
often seen honey-bees visiting these slitted flowers, the nectar 
of which was thus made accessible to them. 

The mason-bee — well named — constructs cells of earth and 
gravel, which by aid of its spittle it has power to cement, so 
that they are harder than brick. 

The tailor, or leaf-cutting bees, of the genus Megachile, 
make wonderful cells from variously shaped pieces of leaves. 
These are always mathematical in form, usually circular and 
oblong, are cut — the insect making scissors of its jaws — from 
various leaves, the rose being a favorite. I have found these 
cells made almost wholly of the petals or flower leaves of the 
rose. The cells are made by gluing these leaf-sections in con- 
centric layers, letting them over-lap. The oblong sections 
form the walls of the cylinder, while the circular pieces are 



Tailor and Mason Been. 29 

crowded as we press circular wads. into our shot-guns, and are 
used at the ends or for partitions where several cells are 
placed together. When complete, the single cells are in form 
and size much like a revolver cartridge. When several are 
placed together, which is usually the case, they are arranged 
end to end, and in size and form are quite like a small stick of 
candy, though not more than one-third as long. These cells I 
have found in the grass, partially buried m the earth, in 
crevices, and in one case knew of their being built in the folds 
of a partially-knit sock, which a good house- wife had chanced 
to leave stationary for some days. These leaf-cutters have 
rows of yellow hairs underneath their bodies which aid them 
in carrying pollen. I have noticed them each summer for 
some years swarming on the Virginia creeper, often called 
woodbine, while in blossom, in quest of pollen, though I never 
saw a single hive-bee on these vines. The tailor-bees often cut 
the foliage of the same vines quite badly. 

I have often reared beautiful bees of the genus Osmia, which 
are also called mason-bees. Their glistening colors of blue and 
green possess a luster and reflection unsurpassed even by the 
metals themselves. These rear their young in cells of mud, 
in mud-cells lining hollow weeds and shrubs, and in burrows 
which they dig in the hard earth. In early summer, during 
warm days, these glistening gems of life are frequently seen in 
walks and drives intent on gathering earth for mortar, or 
digging holes, and will hardly escape identification by the ob- 
serving apiarist, as their form is so much like that of our honey- 
bees. They are smaller ; yet their broad head, prominent eyes, 
and general form, are very like those of the equally quick and 
active, yet more soberly attired, workers of the apiary. 

Other bees — the numerous species of the genus Nomada, 
and of Apathus, are the black sheep in the family Apidse. 
These tramps, already referred to, like the English cuckoo and 
our American cow-blackbird, steal in upon the unwary, and, 
though all unbidden, lay their eggs ; in this way appropriating 
food and lodgings for their own yet unborn. Thus these insect 
vagabonds impose upon the unsuspecting foster-mothers in these 
violated homes, and these same foster-mothers show by their 
tender care of these merciless intruders, that they are miser- 
ably fooled, for they carefully guard and feed infant bees, which 
with age will in turn practice this same nefarious trickery. 



30 Genus of the Honey-Bee. 

I reluctantly withhold further particulars of this wonderful 
bee family. When first I visited Messrs. Townley and Davis, 
of this State, I was struck with the fine collection of wild bees 
which each had made. Yet, unknowingly, they had incorpo- 
rated many that were not bees. Of course, many apiarists will 
wish to make such collections and also to study our wild bees. 
I hope the above will prove efficient aid. I hope, too, that it 
will stimulate others, especially youth, to the valuable and in- 
tensely interesting study of these wonders of nature. I am 
glad to open to the reader a page ^rom the book of nature so 
replete with attractions as is the above. Nor do I think I have 
taken too much space in revealing the strange and marvelous 
instincts, and wonderfully varied habits, of this highest of in- 
sect families, at the head of which stand our own fellow-labor- 
ers and companions of the apiary. 

THE GENUS OF THE HONEY-BEE. 

The genus Apis includes all bees that have no tibial spurs 
on the posterior legs. They have three cubital or sub-costal 
cells (1, 2, 3, Fig. 3) — the second row from the costal or an- 

Fig. 3. 




A.— Anterior Wing of a Bee. 1, 2, X.— Sub-costal or Cubital Cells. 

B. — Secondary or Posterior Wing; a, hooks to attach to Primary Wing. 

terior edge — on the front or primary wings. On the inner 
side of the posterior basal tarsus, opposite the pollen baskets, 
in the neuters or workers, are rows of hairs (Fig. 26, e) which 
are probably used in collecting pollen. In the males, which 
do no work except to fertilize the queens, the large compound 
eyes meet above, crowding the three simple eyes below (Fig. 4), 
while in the workers (Fig. 5) and queens these simple eyes, 
called ocelli, are above, and the compound eyes wide apart. 
The drones and queens have weak jaws, with a rudimentary 



The Genus Apis. 
Fig. 4. 



31 




Head of Drone, magnified. 
Antenna. Compound Eyes. Simple Eyes. 

Fig. 5. 




Head of Worker, Magnified. 
Antenna*. Compound Eyes. Simple Eyes. 

tooth (Fig. 24, a, b), short tongues, and no pollen baskets, 
though they have the broad tibia and wide basal tarsus (Fig. 
20, |>). 

There is some doubt as to the number of species of this 
genus. It is certain that the Apis Ligustica of Spinola, or 
Italian bee, the Apis fa^ciata of Latreille, or Egyptian bee, 
are only varieties of the Apis mellifica, which also includes 
the German or black bee. 

Mr. F. Smith, an able entomologist, considers Apis dorsata 
of India and the East Indies, Apis zonata of the same islands, 
Apis Indica of India and China, and Apis florea of India, 



32 Other Species of Apis. 

Ceylon, China, and Borneo, as distinct species. He thinks, 
also, that Apis Adansoni and Apis nigrocincta are distinct, but 
states that they may be varieties of Apis Indica. Some regard 
Apis unicolor as a distinct species, but it is probably a variety 
of Apis dorsata. As Apis mellifica has not been found in 
India, and is a native of Europe, Western Asia, and Africa, 
it seems quite possible though not probable that several of the 
above may turn out to be only varieties of Apis mellifica. If 
there are only color and size to distinguish them, and, indeed, 
one may add habits, then we may suspect, with good reason, 
the validity of the above arrangement. If there is structural 
difference, as Mr. Wallace says there is, in the male dorsata, 
then we may call them different species. The Italian certainly 
has a longer tongue than the German, yet that is not sufficient 
to separate them as species. Apis zonata and Apis unicolor, 
both of the East Indies, are said to be very black. . 

In the Autumn of 1879, Mr. D. A. Jones, of Beeton, On- 
tario, Canada, inaugurated the grandest enterprise ever under- 
taken in the interests of apiculture. This was nothing less 
than to visit Cyprus, Syria, and the more distant India and 
the East Indies, for the purpose of securing and introducing 
into America such species and races of bees as gave promise of 
superior excellence. Mr. Jones procured the services of Mr. 
Frank Benton, a graduate of Michigan Agricultural College, 
a fine linguist and skilled apiarist, to aid in this great under- 
taking. After visiting the principal apiaries of Europe, these 
gentlemen located at Larnica, in the Island of Cyprus, where 
they established a large apiary composed of Cyprian and Syrian 
bees. The Cyprian bees were purchased on the Island, while 
the Syrians were procured personally by Mr. Jones in Syria. 
The following June, Mr. Jones returned to America with 
several hundred queens of these two races. Mr. Benton re- 
mained at Larnica to rear and ship more queens to Europe and 
America. The following winter Mr. Benton visited Ceylon, 
Farther India, and Java, as Mr. Jones was determined to as- 
certain if there were better bees than those we already had, 
and if so to secure them. Apis dorsata was the special object 
of the quest, and as this bee was known as the ' ' great bee of 
Java", Mr. Benton visited that island, in hopes to procure 
these bees. But to the sore disappointment not only of those 
who had the enterprise in charge, but of all progressive apiar- 



Description of Apis Dorsata. 33 

ists, the bees in question were not to be found on that island. 
Mr. Benton learned at great cost that this bee is rare in Java, 
but common in the jungles of Ceylon, Hindoostan, Farther 
India, Sumatra, Borneo, and Timor. In Ceylon, Mr. Benton 
saw many colonies, most of which were in inaccessible places, 
though he secured, after great labor and hardship, four colonies. 
These bees usually suspend their great combs, which are 
often six feet long and four feet wide, to overhanging rocks, or 
to horizontal branches of trees. In one case, Mr. Benton 
found them in the crevice of a rock, nearly surrounded by the 
same. This indicates that they may be kept in hives. The 
combs hang side by side as do those of our common bees, but 
are one half inch apart. Mr. Benton found the tops of the 
combs, which contain the honey, from three to six inches thick, 
while those where brood is reared are one and one half inches 
thick. The drones and workers are all reared in.the same cells, 
which are about the size of the drone-brood cells of our honey- 
comb. The worker bees, some specimens of which I have re- 
ceived from Mr. Jones, in size and general appearance much 
resemble our Italian queens. They have blue black wings, 
black bodies, which are ringed very much as are our Italians, 
only the yellow largely predominates. Mr. Benton writes me 
that in form and style of flight they much resemble wasps. 
They are the same size as the drones, varying from three-fourths 
to seven-eighths of an inch in length. They are easily handled 
by aid of smoke, and are very, clumsy in their attempts to 
sting. Their sting is no larger than that of our common bees, 
while the pain from their sting, Mr. Benton says, is not so 
great. The drones are dark brown, marked with yellow. 
Strangely enough, they only fly, unless disturbed, after sun- 
down. This is unfortunate, as with the same habits we might 
hope to mate them with our common bees, and thus procure a 
valuable cross. This may be a developed peculiarity, to pro- 
tect them from birds, and so might very likely disappear with 
domestication. The queens are leather colored, and smaller, 
as compared with the workers, than are our common queens. 
The queens are more restless than are the workers while being- 
handled. While procuring these bees, Mr. Benton was 
prostrated with a fever, and so the bees, during their long 
voyage to Syria, were neglected. Strange to say, one colony 
survived the long confinement, but perished soon after reach- 



34 Other Species of Apis. 

ing Syria. We can not call this journey a failure, as we now 
have the information that will render a second attempt surely 
successful. What has been learned will make the enterprising 
bee-keeper more desirous than ever to secure these bees. Their 
large size, long tongue, and immense capabilities in the way 
of wax secretion, as well as honey storing, give us great reason 
to hope for substantial benefits from their importation. We 
can but rejoice that the characteristic energy and enterprise of 
Mr. Jones are still apparent, as he does not propose to rest till 
Apis dorsata is in the possession of American apiarists. 

Mr. Benton also found A. Indica and A. florea on the Is- 
land of Ceylon. I have received some of the bees and comb 
of the former species. The comb is very delicate, the cells 
being only one-sixth of an inch in diameter. The workers are 
less than one half of an inch long, brown in color, and their 
entire abdomens are beautifully ringed with brown and yellow. 
The drones are black, and very small. The one I have measures 
an eighth of an inch less in length than does the worker. The 
queens are leather colored, and very large as compared with 
the workers. They are as large as are our common queens. These 
bees are very quick and are domesticated on the Island of Cey- 
lon. The workers of A. florea are also banded, and are more 
beautiful even than those of A. Indica. From . Mr. Benton's 
description it must be a sort of ' 'albino. " The sting of these two 
species is very small. From the small amount of stores which 
they gather, the tendency which they have to swarm out, and 
their inability to stand the cold, these two species promise little 
of value except from a scientific point of view. One colony 
of A. florea was brought by Mr. Benton to Cyprus, but it 
swarmed out and was lost. 

It seems strange that the genus Apis should not have been 
native to the American continent. Without doubt there were 
no bees of this genus here till introduced by the Caucasian 
race. It seems more strange, as we find that all the continents 
and islands of the Eastern hemisphere abound with represent- 
atives. It is one more illustration of the strange, inextricable 
puzzles connected with the geographical distribution of animals. 

SPECIES OF OUR HONEY-BEES. 

The bees at present domesticated unquestionably belong to 
the Apis mellifica. The character of this species will appear 



Apis Mellifica — German Bee. 35 

in the next chapter, as we proceed with their anatomy and 
physiology. As before stated, this species is native exclusively 
to the Eastern hemisphere, though it has been introduced 
wherever civilized man has taken up his abode. 

VARIETIES OF THE HONEY-BEE. 

German or Black Bee. 

The German or black bee is the variety best known, as 
through all the ages it has been most widely distributed. The 
name German refers to locality, while the name black is a 
misnomer, as the bee is a gray-black. The queen, and, in a 
less degree, the drones, are darker, while the legs and under- 
surface of the former are brown, or copper colored, and of the 
latter light-gray. The tongue of the black worker I have 
found, by repeated dissections and comparisons made both by 
myself and by my pupils, is shorter than that of the Italian 
worker, and generally less hairy. The black bees have been 
known no longer than the Italians, as we find the latter were 
known both to Aristotle, the fourth century B.C., and to 
Virgil, the great Roman poet, who sung of the variegated 
golden bee, the first century B. C. ; and we can only account 
for the wider distribution of the German bee by considering 
the more vigorous pushing habits of the Germanic races, who 
not only over-ran and infused life into Southern Europe, but 
have vitalized all chrfstendom. 

Ligurian or Italian Bee. 

The Italian bee is characterized as a variety, not only by 
difference of color, habits, and activity, but also by possessing 
a little longer tongue. These bees were first described as 
distinct from the German race by Spinola, in 1805, who gave 
the name Ligurian bee, which name prevails in Europe. The 
name comes from a province of Northern Italy, north of the 
Ligurian Gulf, or Gulf of Genoa. This region is shut off 
from Northern Europe by the Alps, and thus these bees were 
kept apart from the German bees, and in warmer, more genial 
Italy, was developed a distinct race, our beautiful Italians. 

In 1843, Von Baldenstein procured a colony of these bees, 
which he had previously observed as peculiar, while stationed 
as a military captain in Italy. He published his experience 



36 The Italian Race. 

in 1848, which was read by Dzierzon, who became interested, 
and through him the Italian became generally introduced into 
Germany. In 1859, six years after Dzierzon's first importa- 
tion, the Italian variety was introduced into England by 
Neighbour, the author of the valuable treatise already referred 
to. The same year, Messrs. Wagner and Colvin imported the 
Italians from Dzierzon's apiary into America; and in 1860, 
Mr. S. P. Parsons brought the first colonies that were imported 
direct from Italy. 

The Italian worker is quickly distinguished by the bright- 
yellow rings at the base of the abdomen. If the colony is 

Fig. 6. 




Abdomen of Italian Worker. 

pure, every bee will show three of these golden girdles. The 
two first segments or rings of the abdomen, except at their 
posterior border, and also the base or anterior border of the 
third, will be of this orange-yellow hue. The rest of the back 
or dorsal surface will be much as in the German race. Under- 
neath, the abdomen, except for a greater or less distance at 
the tip, will also be yellow, while the same color appears more 
or less strongly marked on the legs. The workers have longer 
ligulse or tongues (Fig. 22, t) than the German race, and their 
tongues are also a little more hairy. They are also more active, 
and less inclined to sting. The queen has the entire base of 
her abdomen, and sometimes nearly the whole of it, orange- 
yellow. The variation as to amount of color in the queens is 



Cyprian and Syrian Bees. 37 

quite striking. Sometimes very dark queens are imported 
right from the Ligurian hills, yet all the workers will wear the 
badge of purity — the three golden bands. 

The drones are quite variable. Sometimes the rings and 
patches of yellow will be very prominent, then, again, quite 
indistinct. But the under side of the body is always, so far 
as I have observed, mainly yellow. 

A variety of our Italian bees which has the rows of white 
hairs (Fig. 6, J, K, L, M) unusually distinct is being sold in 
the United States under the name of Albinos. They are not 
a distinct race. In fact, I have otten noticed among Italians 
the so-called Albinos. 

THE, SYRIAN AND CYPRIAN RACES. 

Through the enterprise of Messrs. D. A. Jones and Frank 
Benton, we now have these races in our country, and have 
proved the truth of the assertion of noted European apiarists, 
that the Cyprian is a distinct race of bees. 

Mr. Benton, than whom no one is better fitted to express a 
correct opinion, thinks that the Cyprian bees are the offspring 
of the Syrian. This opinion is strengthened by the close 
resemblance of the three races, and by the fact that migrations 
of all kinds have gone westward. A similar argument would 
make it presumable that the Cyprians gave rise to the Italians. 

The Cyprian bees resemble the Italians very closely. They 
may be distinguished by the bright leather-colored lunule which 
tips their thorax posteriorly, and by the fact that the under 
side of their bodies is yellow to the tip. They are more active 
than are the Italians, and the queens are more prolific. 

The good qualities of the Italians seem all to be exaggerated 
in the Cyprian, except the trait of amiability. The Cyprian 
bees are second only to the Egyptian in irritability. That 
they will become less cross with handling is to be expected. 

The Syrian bees are a very well marked race. The Syrian 
queens are remarkably uniform. Then' abdomens above are, 
like the little A. Indica, beautifully banded with yellow and 
black. They are very quick and remarkably prolific. They 
do not cease laying even when the honey flow ceases. The 
workers closely resemble those of the Italian race, only that 
they are more yellow beneath, and when first from the cells, or 
newly hatched, they are very dark, owing to the fact that the 



38 Races of Bees. 

body rings seem pushed together. From the admirable way 
in which they defend their hives against robbers, the ease with 
which they are shaken from the combs, their great activity, 
their great tendency to remain in the hive on very windy days, 
the wonderful fecundity of the queen, her persistence in laying 
during a dearth of nectar secretion, and their great superiority 
for queen rearing, I feel sure that these bees are a very great 
acquisition to American apiculture, and I believe are the best 
bees that have as yet been domesticated. 

I have now tried these Syrian bees for three years, and have 
found them gentle and easy to handle. My thirty students 
went among them freely last summer, handling them with no 
protection, and one of our students, who had never handled 
bees before in his life, took all of the honey away from them 
in the fall, and received almost no stings. The comb-honey of 
Syrians is said to have very thin capping, and so not to be 
salable. I have not observed this peculiarity. 

OTHER RACES. 

The Egyptian bees are very yellow, intensely cross, and 
frequently have fertile workers. These are probably the bees 
which are famous in history, as having been moved up and 
down the Nile, in rude boats or rafts, as the varying periods 
of nectar-secreting bloom seemed to demand. 

The heath bees of Northern Germany are much like the 
common German bees, of which they are a variety, except 
that they are far more inclined to swarm. 

The Carniolan bees of South-western Austria are like the 
heath variety, but are specially noted for their very gentle 
dispositions. Some European bee-keepers claim that this race 
or variety is much superior to the common German bees. The 
Hungarian bees are longer than the typical German race, and 
are covered with gray hairs. During the poor season of 1875 
in Europe, these bees, like the Carniolans, were found superior 
even to the Italians. The beautiful Dalmatian bees are slim, 
wasp-like, and very black. The rings of their abdomens are 
banded with lightish yellow. Their honey is even more white 
and beautiful than that of the German race. Some of the 
best European bee-keepers claim that they are superior to the 
Italian bees. *Akin to the Dalmatian bees are the Herzegovin- 
ian variety, which comes from the mountainous region of Eu- 



Bibliography. 39 

ropean Turkey bordering on the Adriatic Sea. A better 
marked variety — the Smyrnian bees — from Western Asia, are 
also much praised by some of the noted Austrian bee-keepers, 
as are also the Caucasian, from the Caucasus Mountains, which 
are said to be very active and amiable. It is quite likely that 
some of these varieties might be found to endure our severe 
winters better than the pure German type or the Italians. 

BIBLIOGRAPHY. 

It would be a pleasing duty, and not an unprofitable one, 
to give in this connection a complete history of entomology so 
far as it relates to Apis mellifica. But this would take much 
space, and as there is quite a full history in books that I shall 
recommend to those who are eager to know more of this inter- 
esting department of natural history, I will not go into details. 

Aristotle wrote of bees more than three hundred years B.C. 
About three hundred years later, Virgil, in his fourth Georgic, 
gave to the world the views then extant on this subject, 
gathered largely from the writings of Aristotle. The poetry 
will ever be remarkable for its beauty and elegance — would 
that as much could be said for the subject matter, which, though 
full of interest, is also full of errors. A little later, Columella, 
though usually careful and accurate in his observations, still 
gave voice to the prevailing errors, though much that he wrote 
was valuable, and more was curious. As Mr. Langstroth once 
said to me, Columella wrote as one who had handled the things 
of which he wrote ; and not like Virgil, as one who was deal- 
ing with second hand wares. Pliny the elder, who wrote in 
the first century, A. D. , helped to continue the erroneous opin- 
ions which previous authors had given, and not content with 
this, he added opinions of his own, which were not only with- 
out foundation but were often the perfection of absurdity. 

After this, nearly two .thousand years passed with no pro- 
gress in natural history ; even for two centuries after the re- 
vival of learning, we find nothing worthy of note. Swammer- 
dam, a Dutch entomologist, in the middle of the 17th century, 
wrote a general history of insects ; also, ' 'The Natural History 
of Bees." He and his English contemporary, Ray, showed 
their ability as naturalists by founding their systems on the 
insect transformations. They also revived the study and 
practice of anatomy, which had slept since its first introduc- 



40 Bibliography. 

tion by Aristotle, as the great stepping-stone in zoological 
progress. I never open the grand work of Swammerdam, with 
its admirable illustrations, without feelings of the most pro- 
found respect and admiration. Though a very pioneer in 
anatomy, and one of the founders of Natural Science, and 
possessed of lenses of very inferior quality, yet he wrote 
with an accuracy, and illustrated even minute tissues with a 
correctness and elegance that well might put to the blush many 
a modern writer. 

Ray also gave special attention to Hymenoptera, and was 
much aided by Willoughby and Lister. At this time Harvey, 
so justly noted for his discovery of the circulation of the blood, 
announced his celebrated dictum, "Omnia ex ovo" — all life 
from eggs — which was completely established by the noted 
Italians, Redi and Malpighi. Toward the middle of the 18th 
century, the great Linnaeus — "the brilliant Star of the North" 
— published his "System Naturae," and threw a flood of light 
on the whole subject of natural history. His division of in- 
sects was founded upon presence, or absence, and charac- 
teristics, of wings. This, like Swammerdam's basis, was too 
narrow, yet his conclusions were remarkably correct. Lin- 
naeus is noted for his accurate descriptions, and especially for 
his gift of the binomial method of naming plants and animals, 
giving in the name, the genus and species, as, Apis mellifica. 
He was also the first to introduce classes and orders, as we now 
understand them. When we consider the amount and charac- 
ter of the work of the great Swede, we can but place him 
among the first, if not as the first, of naturalists. Contempo- 
rary with Linnaeus (also written Linne) was Geoffry, who did 
valuable work in defining new genera. In the last half of the 
century appeared the great work of a master in entomology, 
DeGeer, who based his arrangement of insects on the charac- 
ter of wings and jaws, and thus discovered another of nature's 
keys to aid him in unlocking her mysteries. Kirby well says : 
"He united in himself the highest merit of almost every de- 
partment of entomology." As a scientist, an anatomist, a 
physiologist, and as the observant historian of the habits and 
economy of insects, he is above all praise. What a spring of 
self-improvement, enjoyment and public usefulness, is such an 
ability to observe as was possessed by the great DeGeer. 

Contemporary with Linnaeus and DeGeer, was Reaumur, of 



Bibliography. 41 

France, whose experiments and researches are of special inter- 
est to the apiarists. Perhaps no entomologist has done more 
to reveal the natural history of bees. Especially to be com- 
mended are his method of experimenting, his patience in in- 
vestigation, the elegance and felicity of his word pictures, and, 
above all, his devotion to truth. We shall have occasion to 
speak of this conscientious and indefatigable worker in the 
great field of insect life frequently in the following pages. 
Bonnet, of Geneva, the able correspondent of Reaumur, also 
did valuable work, in which the lover of bees has a special 
interest. Bonnet is specially noted for his discovery and 
elucidation of parthenogenesis — that anomalous mode of re- 
production — as it occurs among the Aphides, or plant-lice, 
• though he did not discover that our bees, in the production 
of drones, illustrate the same doctrine. Though the author 
of no system, he gave much aid to Reaumur in his systematic 
labor. 

At this same period systematic entomology received great 
aid from Lyonnet's valuable work. This author dissected 
and explained the development of a caterpillar. His descrip- 
tions and illustrations are wonderful, and will proclaim his 
ability as long as entomology is studied, and they, to quote 
Bonnet, "demonstrate the existence of God." 

We have next to speak of the great Dane, Fabricius — a 
student of Linnaeus — who published his works from 1775 to 
1798, and thus was revolutionizing systematic entomology at 
the same time that Ave of America were revolutionizing gov- 
ernment. He made the mouth organs the basis of his classi- 
fication, and thus followed in the path which DeGeer had 
marked out ; though it was scarcely beaten by the latter, 
while Fabricius left it wide and deep. His classes and orders 
are no improvement on, in fact, are not nearly as correct as 
his old master's. In his description of genera — where he pre- 
tended to follow nature — he has rendered valuable service. 
In leading scientists to study parts, before little regarded, and 
thus to better establish affinities, he did a most valuable work. 
His work is a standard, and should be thoroughly studied by 
all entomologists. 

Just at the close of the last century, appeared the ' ' great- 
est Roman of them all," the great Latreille, of .France, 
whose name we have so frequently used in the classification 



42 Valuable Books. 

of the honey-bee. His is called the Elective System, as he 
used wings, mouth-parts, transformations, in fact, all the or- 
gans — the entire structure. He gave us our Family Apidse, 
our genus Apis, and, as will be remembered, he described 
several of the species of this genus. In our study of this great 
man's work, we constantly marvel at his extensive researches 
and remarkable talents. Lamarck, of this time, except that 
he could see no God in nature, did very admirable work. So, 
too, did Cuvier, of Napoleon's time, and the learned Dr. 
Leach, of England. Since then we have had hosts of workers 
in this field, and many worthy of not only mention but praise; 
yet the work has been to rub up and garnish, rather than to 
create. 

I will close this brief history with a notice of authors who are 
very serviceable to such as may desire to glean farther of the 
treasures of systematic entomology ; only remarking that at the 
end of the next chapter I shall refer to those who have been 
particularly serviceable in developing the anatomy and physi- 
ology of insects, especially of bees. 

VALUABLE BOOKS FOR THE STUDENT OF ENTOMOLOGY. 

For mere classification, no work is equal to Westwood on 
Insects — two volumes. In this the descriptions and illustra- 
tions are very full and perfect, making it easy to study the 
families, and even genera, of all the orders. This work and 
the following are out of print, but can be got with little 
trouble at second-hand book-stores. Kirby and Spence — In- 
troduction to Entomology — is a very complete work. It treats 
of the classification, structure, habits, general economy of in- 
sects, and gives a history of the subject. It is an invaluable 
work, and a great acquisition to any library. Dr. Packard's 
Guide to the Study of Insects is a valuable work, and being 
American is specially to be recommended. "Injurious In- 
sects" is the title of two valuable books, one by Dr. T. Harris, 
the other by Mary Treat. The Reports of Dr. T. Harris, Dr. 
A. Fitch, and Dr. C. V. Riley, the Illinois Entomological 
Reports, and the Entomological Reports of the Departments 
of the Interior, and of Agriculture, will also be found of great 
value and interest. 



Anatomy of Insects. 43 

. CHAPTEE II. 

ANATOMY AND PHYSIOLOGY. 

In this chapter I shall give first the general anatomy of in- 
sects ; then the anatomy, and still more wonderful physiology, 
of the honey-bee. 

ANATOMY OF INSECTS. 

In all insects the body is divided into three well-marked 
portions (Fig. 2.); the head (Figs. 4 and 5), which con- 
tains the mouth-organs, the eyes, both the compound and when 
present the simple, and the antenna? ; the thorax, which is 
composed of three rings, and gives support to the one or two 
pairs of wings when present, and to the three pairs of legs ; 
and the abdomen, which is composed of a variable number of 
rings, and gives support to the external sex-organs, and when 
present to the sting. Within the thorax there are little more 
than muscles, as the concentrated strength of insects, which en- 
ables them to fly with such rapidity, dwells in this confined 
space. Within the abdomen, on the other hand, are the sex- 
organs, by far the greater and more important portions of the 
alimentary canal, and other important organs. 

ORGANS OF THE HEAD. 

Of these the mouth organs (Fig. 7) are most prominent. 
These consist of an upper lip — labrum, and under lip — labium, 
and two pairs ot jaws which move sidewise ; the stronger, horny 
jaws are called mandibles, and the more membranous, but 
usually longer, maxillae. The labrum (Fig. 7, I) is well de- 
scribed in the name upper lip. It is attached, usually, by a 
movable joint to a similarly shaped piece above it, called the 
clypeus (Fig. 7, c), and this latter to the broad epicranium 
(Fig. 7, o), which contains the antennae, the compound, and, 
when present, the simple eyes. 

The labium (Fig. 17) is not described by the name under- 
lip, as its base forms the floor of the mouth and its tip the 
tongue. The base is usually broad, and is called the men- 
turn, and from this extends the tongue (Fig. 17, a) or ligula. 



44 



Mouth Organs of Insects. 



On either side, near the junction of the ligula and mentum, 
arises a jointed organ, rarely absent, called the labial palpus 
(Fig. 7, k k), or, together, the labial palpi. Just within the 
angle formed by these latter and the ligula arise the paraglossse 
(Fig. 17, d), one on either side. These are often wanting. 



Fig. 7. 




Head of Bee much magnified. 



o— Epicranium. 
e e — Compound eyes. 
a a — Antennae, 
c— Clypeus. 
I— Labrum. 



m — Jaws. 

m x — 2d Jaws. 

k &— -Labial palpi. 

t— Ligula. 



The jaws or mandibles (Fig. 7, m, m) arise one on either side 
just below and at the side of the labrum, or upper lip. These 
work sidewise instead of up and down as in higher animals, are 
frequently very hard and sharp, and sometimes armed with one 



Month Organs of Insects. 45 

or more teeth. A rudimentary tooth (Fig. 24, a, b) is visible 
on the jaws of drone and queen bees. 

Beneath the jaws or mandibles, and inserted a little farther 
back, are the second jaws, or maxilla? (Fig. 7, mx), less dense 
and firm than the mandibles, but far more complex. They 
arise by a small joint, the cardo ; next this is a larger joint, 
the stipes ; from this extends on the inside the broad lacinia 
(Fig. 22, c) or blade, usually fringed with hairs on its inner 
edge, towards the mouth ; while on the outside of the stipe, 
are inserted the — from one to several jointed — maxillary palpi. 
In bees these are very small and consist of two joints, and in 
some insects are wholly wanting. Sometimes, as in some of 
the beetles, there is a third member running from the stipes 
between the palpus and lacinia called the galea. The max- 
illae also move sidewise, and probably aid in holding and turn- 
ing the food while it is crushed by the harder jaws, though in 
some cases they, too, aid in triturating the food. 

These mouth parts are very variable in form in different in- 
sects. In butterflies and moths, two wing flies and bugs, they 
are transformed into a tube, which in the last two groups forms 
a hard, strong beak or piercer, well exemplified in the mosquito 
and bed-bug. In all the other insects we find them much as in 
the bees, with the separate parts varying greatly in form, to 
agree with the habits and character of their possessors. No 
wonder De Geer and Fabricius detected these varying forms 
as strongly indicative of the nature of the insect, and no won- 
der that by their use they were so successful in forming a 
natural classification. 

If, as is more than probable, the ' ' Doctrine of Selection " 
is well founded, then a change in habit is the precursor of a 
change in structure. But what organs are so intimately re- 
lated to the habits of animals, as the mouth and other organs 
that have to do with digestion ? 

Every apiarist will receive great benefit by dissecting these 
parts and studying their form and relations for himself. By 
getting his children interested in the same, he will have con- 
ferred upon them one of the rarest of blessings. 

To dissect these parts, first remove the head and carefully 
pin it to a cork, passing the pin through, well back between 
the eyes. Now separate the parts by two needle points, made 
by inserting a needle for half its length into a wooden pen-holder, 



46 



Antennce of Insects. 



leaving the point projecting for an inch or more. With one of 
these in each hand commence operations. The head may be 
either side up. Much may be learned in dissecting large in- 
sects even with no glass ; but in all cases, and especially in 
small insects, a good lens will be of great value. The best lens 
is one of Tolles', sold by Mr. Stoddard of the Boston optical 
works. These are very excellent and thus high priced, costing 
$14.00 a lens. 

The Coddington lens, mounted in German silver, is nearly 
as good. These are imported from England. They can be 
procured of any optician, and only cost $2. 00. These lenses 
can be mounted in a convenient stand (Fig. 8) which may be 

Fig. 8. 




Microscope mounted for Dissecting. 

made in twenty minutes. I think one of these more valuable 
than a large compound microscope, which costs many times as 
much. Were I obliged to part with either, the latter would go. 

I require my students to do a great deal of dissecting, which 
they enjoy very much and find very valuable. I would much 
rather that my boy should become interested in such study, 
than to have him possessor of infinite gold rings, or even a huge 
gold watch, with a tremendous charm. Let such pleasing rec- 
reation gain the attention of our boys, and they will ever con- 
tribute to our delight and not sadden us with anxiety and fear. 

The antennae (Fig. 7, a, a) are the horn-like jointed organs 
situated between or below and in front of the large compound 



Sense of Searing and Smelling. 47 

eyes of all insects. They are sometimes short, as in the house- 
fly, and sometimes very long, as in the grasshoppers. They 
are either straight, curved, or elbowed. In form they are very 
various, as thread-like, tapering, toothed, knobbed, fringed, 
feathered, etc. It is known that a nerve passes into the an- 
tennae, but their exact function is little understood. That 
they serve as most delicate touch organs no apiarist can doubt. 
That they serve as organs of smell or hearing is not proved. 
That insects are conscious of sounds I think no observing per- 
son can doubt. It is proved by the call of the katy-did, the 
cicada, and the cricket. No apiarist has failed to notice the 
effect of various sounds made by the bees upon their comrades 
of the hive, and how contagious the sharp note of anger, the 
low hum of fear, and the pleasant tone of a new swarm" as they 
commence to enter their new home. Now, whether insects 
take note of these vibrations, as we recognize pitch, or whether 
they just distinguish the tremor, I think no one knows. There 
is some reason to believe that their delicate touch organs may 
enable them to discriminate between vibrations, even more 
acutely than can we by use of our ears. A slight jar will 
quickly awaken a colony of hybrids, while a loud noise will 
pass unnoticed. If insects can appreciate with great delicacy 
the different vibratory conditions of the air by an excessive de- 
velopment of the sense of touch, then undoubtedly the an- 
tennae may be great aids. Dr. Clemens thought that insects 
could only detect atmospheric vibrations. So, too, thought 
Linnaeus and Bonnet. Siebold thinks, as the antenna? receive 
but one nerve, and are plainly touch organs, they can not be 
organs of hearing. Kirby has noticed that some moths turn 
their antenna? towards the direction from which noise proceeds, 
and thus argues that antenna? are organs of hearing. Grote, 
for a similar reason, thinks that the densely feathered antennae 
of the males of various night moths, serve for both smell and 
hearing. Prof. A. M. Mayer and Mr. C. Johnson (see Amer- 
ican Naturalist, vol. 8, p. 574) have by various ingenious ex- 
periments proved conclusively that the delicate, beautifully 
feathered antennae of the male mosquito are organs of hearing. 
Sir John Lubbock, in that interesting work, "Ants, Bees, 
and Wasps," says he has never succeeded in satisfying himself 
that ants, bees, or wasps heard any of the sounds with which 
he tried them. He refers to certain structures on the antenna? 



48 Sense of Smell. 

of ants, and on the tibiae of ants and other insects, which are 
possibly auditory organs. 

That insects have a yery refined sense of smell is beyond 
question. The carrion-fly quickly finds the carcass, the scaven- 
ger the filth, and the bee the nectar. 

I have reared female moths in my study, and have been 
greatly surprised, on the day of their leaving their cocoons, to 
find my room swarming with males. These bridegrooms 
entered an open window in the second-story of a brick build- 
ing. How delicate must have been the sense by which they 
were led to make the visit, and thus made to grace my cabinet. 
Male moths have been known to come down chimney to reach 
the females. Bees have been known to dash against a shutter 
behind which were flowers, thus showing the superiority of 
their perception of odors, as also their poor vision. But odors 
are carried by the air, and must reach the insect through this 
medium. Is it not probable that the various breathing mouths 
of insects are also so many noses, and that their delicate lining 
membranes abounding with nerve filaments, are the great odor 
sentinels ? This view was maintained by both Lehman and 
Cuvier, and explains this delicate perception of scents, as the 
breathing mouths are large and numerous, and most so in 
insects like bees and moths which are most sensitive to odors. 
Bees quickly notice the scent of a strange bee or queen, or the 
peculiar odor of the venom. I have known a bee to sting a 
glove, and in a trice the glove would be as a pin-cushion, with 
stings in lieu of pins. Sometimes the bees will dart for many 
feet, guided by this odor. Yet the odor is very pungent, as I 
have frequently smelt the poison before I felt the sting. Sir 
John Lubbock's experiments with ants show that with them as 
with bees, the sense of smell is highly developed. I have 
tried the experiments of Huber and Lubbock, and know that 
such insects as bees and ants will take no note of food after 
the loss of their antennae. But we must remember that this 
is a capital operation. With loss of antennae, insects lose con- 
trol of their motions, and in many ways show great disturb- 
ance. Is it not probable that removing the antennae destroys 
the desire for food, as does amputation with ourselves? Kirby 
believes, with Huber, that there is a scent organ. Huber's 
experiments on which he based this opinion are, as usual, very 
interesting. He presented a coarse hair dipped in oil of tur- 



Eyes of Insects. 49 

pentine — a substance very repugnant to bees — to various parts 
of a bee engrossed in sipping honey. The bee made no objec- 
tion, even though it touched the ligula, until it approached 
the mouth above the mentum, when she became much dis- 
turbed. He also filled a bee's mouth with paste, which soon 
hardened, after which the bee paid no heed to honey placed 
near it. This was not so conclusive, as the bee may have been 
so disturbed as to lose its appetite. I have experimented a 
good deal, and am inclined to the following opinion: The 
antenna are very delicate touch-organs or feelers, and are so 
important in their function and connection that removal pro- 
duces a severe shock, but further we know but little about 
their function, if they have other, and from the very nature 
of the problem we will find it very difficult of solution. 
. The eyes are of two kinds, the compound, which are always 
present in mature insects, and the ocelli or simple eyes, which 
may or may not be present. When present there are usually 
three, which, if joined by lines, will describe a triangle, in the 
vertices of whose angles are the ocelli. Rarely there are but 
two ocelli, and very rarely but one. 

The simple eyes (Fig. 4,///) are circular, and possess a 
cornea, lens, and retina, which receives the nerve of sight. 

From the experiments of Reaumur and Swammerdam, 
which consisted in covering the eyes with varnish, they con- 
cluded that vision with these simple eyes is very indistinct, 
though by them, the insect can distinguish light. Some have 
thought that these simple eyes were for vision at slight dis- 
tances. Larvae, like spiders and myriapods, have only simple 
eyes. The compound eyes (Fig. 2 , e) are simply a cluster of sim- 
ple eyes, are situated one on either side of the head, and vary 
much in form and size. Between or below these are inserted 
the antennaB. Sometimes these last are inserted in a notch of 
the eyes, and in a few cases actually divide each eye into two 
eyes. 

The eyes may meet above, as in drones (Fig. 4) and most 
two-wing flies and dragon-flies, or they may be considerably 
separated, as in the worker-bees (Fig. 5). The separate facets 
or simple eyes, of each compound eye, are hexagonal, or six- 
sided, and in the microscope look not unlike a section of honey- 
comb. The number of these is prodigious — Leeuwenhoek 
actually counted 12,000 in the eye of a dragon-fly, while some 



50 Whigs of Insects. 

butterflies have over 17,000. The compound eyes are motion- 
less, but from their size and sub-spherical shape give quite a 
range of vision. It is not likely that they are capable of 
adjustment to accord with different distances, and it has been 
supposed, from the direct darting flight of bees to their hives, 
and the awkward work they make in finding a hive when 
moved only a short distance, that their eyes are best suited to 
long vision. 

Sir John Lubbock has proved, by some interesting experi- 
ments with strips of colored paper, that bees can distinguish 
colors. Honey was placed on a blue strip, beside several 
others of various colors. In the absence of the bees he 
changed the position of this strip, and upon their return the 
bees went to the blue strip rather than to the old position. 
Our practical apiarists have long been aware of this fact, and 
have conformed their practice to this knowledge, in giving a 
variety of colors to their hives. Apiarists have frequently 
noted that bees have a rare faculty of marking positions, but, 
for slight distances, their sense of color will correct mistakes 
which would occur if position alone were their guide. Lub- 
bock's experiments prove that ants and wasps also distinguish 
colors. This is doubtless true of all insects that love sweets 
and are attracted by flowers. 

APPENDAGES OF THE THORAX. 

The organs of flight are the most noticeable appendages of 
the thorax. The wings are usually four, though the Diptera 
have but two, and some insects — as the worker ants — have 
none. The front or primary wings (Fig. 3, A) are usually 
larger than the secondary or hind wings (Fig. 3, B), and thus 
the mesothoracic or middle ring of the thorax, to which they 
are attached, is usually larger than the metathorax or third 
ring. The wings consist of a broad frame-work of veins 
(Fig. 3), covered by a thin, tough membrane. The main ribs 
or veins are variable in number, while towards the extremity 
of the wing are more or less cross-veins, dividing this portion 
of the wings into more or less cells. In the higher groups 
these cells are few, and quite important in classifying. Es- 
pecially useful are the cells in the second row, from the frontal 
or costal edge of the front wings, called the sub-costal cells. 
Thus in the genus Apis there are three such cells (Fig. 3, A, 



Legs of LuecU. 51 

1, 2, 3), while in the Melipona there are only two. The ribs 
or veins consist of a tube within a tube, the inner one form- 

Fig. 9. 




Thorax of Bee magnified three times. 
a, a, a— Muscles. b, 6— Crust. 

ing an air tube, the outer one carrying blood. On the costal 
edge of the secondary wings we often find hooks, to attach 
them to the front wings (Fig. 3, B, a). 

The wings are moved by powerful muscles, compactly loca- 
ted in the thorax (Fig. 9, a, a, a), the strength of which is 
very great. The rapidity of the vibrations of the wings 
when flight is rapid, is really beyond computation. Think of 
a tiny fly outstripping the fleetest horse in the chase, and then 
marvel at this wondrous mechanism. 

The legs (Fig. 2, g, g, g) are six in number in all mature in- 
sects, two on the lower side of each ring of the thorax. These 
are long or shiort, weak or strong, according to the habit of 
the insect. Each leg consists of the following joints or parts: 
The coxa, which moves like a ball and socket joint 
in the close-fitting coxal cavities of the body-rings. Next 
to this follow in order the broad trochanter, the large, broad 
femur (Fig. 2, g, 1), the long, slim tibia (Fig. 2, g, 2), fre- 
quently bearing strong spines at or near its end, called tibial 
spurs, and followed by the from one to five-jointed tarsi (Fig. 
2, g, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3). All these parts move freely upon each 
other, and will vary in form to agree with their use. At the 
end of the last tarsal joint are two hooked claws (Fig. 2, g, 4), 
between which are the pulvilli, which are not air-pumps as 
usually described, but rather glands, which secrete a sticky 
substance which enables insects to stick to a smooth wall, even 
though it be above them. The legs, in fact the whole crust, 
are more or less dense and hard, owing to the deposit within 
the structure of a hard substance known as chitine. 



52 Viscera of Insects. 

INTERNAL ANATOMY OF INSECTS. 

The muscles of insects are usually whitish. Sometimes I 
have noticed quite a pinkish hue about the muscles of the 
thorax. They vary in form and position to accord with their 
use. The mechanism of contraction is the same as in higher 
animals. The ultimate fibers of the voluntary muscles, when 
highly magnified, show the strise or cross-lines the same as do 
the voluntary muscles of vertebrates, and are very beautiful 
as microscopic objects. The separate muscles are not bound 
together by a membrane as in higher animals. In insects the 
muscles afe widely distributed, though, as we should expect, 
they are concentrated in the thorax and head. In insects of 
swiftest flight, like the bee, the thorax (Fig. 9, a, a a) is 
almost entirely composed of muscles ; the esophagus, which 
carries the food to the stomach, being very small. At the 
base of the jaws the muscles are large and firm. The number 
of muscles is astounding. Lyonnet counted over 3,000 in a 
single caterpillar, nearly eight times as many as are found in 
the human body. The strength, too, of insects is prodigious. 
There must be quality in muscles, for muscles as large as those 
of the elephant, and as strong as those of the flea, would 
hardly need the fulcrum which the old philosopher demanded, 
in order to move the world. Fleas have been made to draw 
miniature cannon, chains and wagons, many hundred times 
heavier than themselves. 

The nerves of insects are in no wise peculiar so far as known, 
except in position. As in our bodies, some are knotted, or 
have ganglia, and some are not. 

The main nervous cord runs along the under or ventral 
side of the body (Fig. 10), separates near the head, and after 
passing around the esophagus, enlarges to form the largest of 
the ganglia, which serves as a brain. From the brain many 
nerves extend on each side to the compound eyes. The minute 
nerves extend everywhere, and in squeezing out the viscera of 
an insect are easily visible. 

The organs of circulation in insects are quite insignificant. 
The heart is a long tube situated along the back, and receives 
the blood at valvular openings along its sides which only per- 
mit the fluid to pass in, when by contraction it is forced 
towards the head and emptied into the general cavity. Thus 
the heart only serves to keep the blood in motion. According 



Blood of Insects. 



53 



to the best authorities, there are no special vessels to carry the 
blood to various organs. Nor are they necessary, as this 
nutritive fluid everywhere bathes the alimentary canal, and 



Fig. 10. 




Nervous syxtem of the Drone magnified four lime*. 

thus easily receives nutriment, or gives waste by osmosis, 
everywhere surrounds the trachea? or air-tubes — the insect's 
lungs — and thus receives that most needful of all food, oxygen, 
and gives the baneful carbonic acid, everywhere touches the 



54 Blood of Insects. 

various organs, and gives and takes as the vital operations of 
the animal require. 

The blood is light colored, and almost destitute of discs or 
corpuscles, which are so numerous in the blood of higher ani- 
mals, and which give our blood its red color. The function 
of these discs is to carry oxygen, and as oxygen is carried 
everywhere through the body by the ubiquitous air-tubes of 
insects, we see the discs are not needed. Except these semi- 
fluid discs, which are real organs, and nourished as are other 
organs, the blood of higher animals is entirely fluid, in all 
normal conditions, and contains not the organs themselves or 
any part of them, but only the elements, which are absorbed 
by the tissue and converted into the organs, or, to be scien- 
tific, are assimilated. As the blood of insects is nearly des- 
titute of these discs, it is almost wholly fluid, and is almost 
wholly made up of nutritious matter. 

The respiratory or breathing system of insects has already 
been referred to. Along the sides of the body are the spira- 
cles or breathing mouths, which vary in number. These are 
armed with a complex valvular arrangement which excludes 
dust or other noxious particles. These spiracles are lined 
with a delicate membrane which abounds with nerves, which 
were referred to in speaking of them as smelling organs. 
'From these extends the labyrinth of air-tubes (Fig. 2,f,f), 
which carries vitalizing oxygen into every part of the insect 
organism. In the more active insects — as in bees — the main 
tracheie, one on each side of the abdomen, are expanded into 
large air-sacks (Fig. 2, /). Insects often show a respiratory 
motion, which in bees is often very marked. Newport has 
shown that in bees the rapidity of the respiration gauges the 
heat in the hive, and thus we see why bees, in times of severe 
cold, which they essay to keep at bay by. forced respiration, 
consume much food, exhale much foul air and moisture, and 
ai - e liable to disease. Newport found that in cases of severe 
cold there would be quite a rise of mercury in a thermometer 
which he suspended in the hive amidst the cluster. In the 
larval state, many insects breathe by fringe-like gills. The 
larval mosquito has gills in form of hairy tufts, while in the 
larval dragon-fly the gills are inside the rectum, or last part 
of the intestine. This insect, by a muscular effort, draws the 
Avater slowly in at the anus, where it bathes these singularly- 



Respiratory Organs 



55 



placed branchise, and then makes it serve a further turn by 
forcibly expelling it, when the insect is sent darting ahead. 
Thus this curious apparatus not only furnishes oxygen, but 
also aids in locomotion. In the pupse of insects there is little 
or no motion, yet important organic changes are taking place 
— the worm-like, ignoble, creeping, often repulsive larva, is 
soon to appear as the airy, beautiful, active, almost ethereal 
imago. So oxygen, the most essential — the sine qua non — of 
all animal food, is still needed. The bees are too wise to seal 




Alimentary Canal. 



-Honey stomach. 
-Urinary tubes. 



6— True stomach. 
d— Intestine. 



the brood-cell with impervious wax, but rather add the porous 
capping, made of wax and pollen. The pupse no less than 
the larva? of some two-wing flies which live in water, have 
long tubes which reach far out for the vivifying air, and are 
thus called rat-tailed. Even the pupa of the mosquito, await- 
ing in its liquid home the glad time when it shall unfold its 
tiny wings and pipe its war-note, has a similar arrangement to 
secure the gaseous pabulum. 

The digestive apparatus of insects is very interesting, and, 
as in our own class of animals, varies very much in length and 
complexity, as the hosts of insects vary in their habits. As 
in mammals and birds, the length, with some striking excep- 



56 Stomach and Intestines. 

tions, varies with the food. Carnivorous or flesh-eating in- 
sects have a short alimentary canal, while in those that feed 
on vegetable food it is much longer. 

The mouth I have already described. Following this is the 
throat or pharynx, then the esophagus or gullet, which may 
expand, as in the bee, to form a honey or sucking stomach 
(Fig. 11, o,) may have an attached crop like the chicken, or 
may run as a uniform tube, as in the human body, to the true 
stomach (Fig. 11, 6). Following this is the intestine — separ- 
ated by some authors into an ileum and a rectum — which ends 
in the vent or anus. Connected with the mouth are salivary 
glands, (Fig. 23) which are structurally like those in higher 
animals, and in those larva that form cocoons are the source of 
silk. In the glands this is a viscid fluid, but as it leaves the duct it 
changes instantly into the gossamer thread. Bees and wasps 
use this saliva in building their structures. With it and mud 
some wasps make mortar ; Avith it and wood, others their 
paper cells ; with it and wax, the bee fashions the ribbons 
that are to form the beautiful comb. 

Lining the entire alimentary canal are mucous glands which 
secrete a viscid fluid that keeps the tube soft and promotes the 
passage of food. 

The true stomach (Fig. 11, b) is very muscular, and often a 
gizzard, as in the crickets, where its interior is lined with 
teeth. The interior of the stomach is glandular, for secreting 
the gastric juice which is to liquify the food, that it may be 
absorbed, or pass through the walls of the canal into the blood. 
Attached to the lower portion of the stomach are numer- 
ous urinary tubes (Fig. 11, c), though Cuvier, and even 
Kirby, called these bile tubes. Siebold thinks some of the 
mucous glands secrete bile, and others act as a pancreas. 

The intestine when short, as in larvae and most carnivora, 
is straight and but little if any longer than the abdomen, 
while in most plant-eaters it is long and thus zig-zag in its 
course. Strange as it may seem, the fecal pellets of some in- 
sects are beautiful in form, and of others pleasant to the taste. 
In some caterpillars they are barrel-shaped, artistically fluted, 
of brilliant hue, and if fossilized, would be greatly .admired, 
as have been the coprolites — fossil feces of higher animals — if 
set as gems in jewelry. As it is, they would form no mean 
parlor ornament. In other insects, as the Aphides or plant- 



Organs of Secretion. 57 

lice, the excrement, as well as the fluid that escapes in some 
species from special tubes called the nectaries, is very sweet, 
and in absence of floral nectar will often be appropriated by 
bees and conveyed to the hives. In those insects that suck 
their food, as bees, butterflies, moths, two-wing flies and bugs, 
the feces are liquid, while in case of solid food the excrement 
is nearly solid. 

SECRETORY ORGANS OF INSECTS. 

I have already spoken of the salivary glands, which Kirby 
gives as distinct from the true silk-secreting tubes, thojigh 
Newport gives them as one and the same. In many insects 
these seem absent. I have also spoken of the mucous glands, 
the urinary tubules, etc. Besides these, there are other secre- 
tions which serve for purposes of defense. In the queen and 
workers of bees, and in ants and wasps, the poison intruded 
with the sting is an example. This is secreted by glands at 
the posterior of the abdomen, stored in sacks (Fig. 28, c), and 
extruded through the sting, as occasion requires. I know of 
no insects that poison while they bite, except it be mosquitoes, 
gnats, etc. , and in these cases no special secreting organ has 
been discovered. Perhaps the beak itself secretes an irrita- 
ting substance. A few exceedingly beautiful caterpillars are 
covered with branching spines, which sting about like a nettle. 
We have two such species. They are green, and of rare at- 
traction, so that to capture them is worth the slight incon- 
venience arising from their irritating punctures. Some in- 
sects, like bugs, secrete a disgusting fluid or gas which affords 
protection, as by its stench it renders these filthy bugs so offen- 
sive that even a hungry bird or half-famished insect passes 
them by on the other side. Some insects secrete a gas which 
is stored in a sack at the posterior end of the body, and shot 
forth with an explosion in case danger threatens ; thus by 
noise and smoke it startles its enemy, which beats a retreat. I 
have heard the little bombardier beetle at such times, even at 
considerable distances. The frightful reports about the ter- 
rible horn of the tomato-worm larva are mere nonsense ; a 
more harmless animal does not exist. My little boy of four 
years, and girl of only two, used to bring them to me last sum- 
mer, and regard them as admiringly as would their father up- 
on receiving them from the delighted children. 



58 



Male Organs of I?wcts. 



If we except bees and wasps, there are no true insects that 
need" be feared ; nor need we except them, for with fair usage 
even^they are seldom provoked to use their cruel weapon. 



SEX ORGANS OF INSECTS. 



The male organs consist of the testes (Fig. 12, a), which 
are double. There may be from one, as in the drone bee, to 

Fig. 12. 




Male Organs of Drone, much magnified. 



a — Testes. 

b, b — Vasa deferentia. 

c, c— Seminal sacks. 
d— Glandular sacks. 



e— Common duct. 

/, g— Ejaculatory sack. 

h — Penis. 

i— Yellow saccules. 



several, as in some beetles, on each side the abdominal cavity. 
In these vesicles grow the sperm cells or spermatozoa, which, 
when liberated, pass through a long convoluted tube, the vas- 
deferens (Fig. 12, b,b), into the seminal sack (Fig. 12, c,c) 



Male Organs of Insects. 



59 



where, in connection with mucus, they are stored. In most 
insects there are glandular sacks (Fig. 12, d) joined to these 
seminal receptacles, which in the male bee are very large. 
The sperm cells mingled with these viscid secretions, as they 

Fig. 13. 




Queen Organs, greatly magnified. 



a, a — Ovaries. 
6— Oviducts. 



c— Oviduct. 

e — Spermatheca. 



appear in the seminal receptacle ready for use, form the seminal 
fluid. Extending from these seminal receptacles is the ejacu- 
latory duct (Fig. 12, e,f, g), which in copulation carries the 
male fluid to the penis (Fig. 12, h), through which it passes 



60 Female Orgam of Insects. 

to the spermatheca of the female. Beside this latter organ 
are the sheath, the claspers when present, and in the male bee 
those large yellow glandular sacks (Fig. 12, i), which are often 
seen to dart forth as the drone is held in the warm hand. 

The female organs (Fig. 13) consist of the ovaries (Fig. 13, 
a, a), which are situated one on either side of the abdominal 
cavity. From these extend the two oviducts (Fig. 13, b), 
which unite into the common oviduct (Fig. 13, c) through 
which the eggs pass in deposition. In many insects there is 
beside this oviduct, and connected with it, a sack (Fig. 13, e) 
called the spermatheca, which receives the male fluid in copu- 
lation, and which, by extruding its contents, must ever after 
do the work ot impregnation. 

This sack was discovered and its use suggested by Malpighi 
as early as 1686, but its function was not fully demonstrated 
till 1792, when the great anatomist, John Hunter, showed 
that in copulation this was filled. The ovaries are multitu- 
bular organs. In some insects, as fertile workers, there are 
but very*few tubes — two or three ; while in the queen bee there 
are more than one hundred. In these tubes the ova or eggs grow, 
as do the sperm cells in the vesicles of the testes. The number of 
eggs is variable. Some insects, as the mud-wasps, produce very 
few, while the queen white-ant extrudes millions. The end of 
the oviduct, called the ovipositor, is wonderful in its variation. 
Sometimes it consists of concentric rings, like a spy-glass, 
which may be pushed out or drawn in ; sometimes of a long 
tube armed with augers or saws of wonderful finish, to prepare 
for eggs ; or again of a tube which may also serve as a sting. 

Most authors state that insects copulate only once, or at 
least that the female meets the male but once. My pupil, 
Clement S. Strang, who made a special study of the structure 
and habits of bugs during the past season, noticed that the 
squash-bugs mated many times. It would be interesting to 
know whether these females possess the spermatheca. In some 
cases, as we shall see in the sequel, the male is killed by the 
copulatory act. I think this curious fatality is limited to few 
species. 

To study viscera, which of course requires very careful dis- 
section, we need more apparatus than has been yet described. 
Here a good lens is indispensable. A small dissecting knife, 
a delicate pair of forceps, and some small sharp-pointed dis- 



Dissection of Insects. 61 

secting scissors — those of the renowned Swammerdam were so 
fine at the point that it required a lens to sharpen them — 
which may also serve to clip the wings of queens, are requisite 
to satisfactory work. Specimens put in alcohol will be im- 
proved, as the oil will be dissolved out and the muscles hardened. 
Placing them in hot water will do nearly as well, in which 
case oil of turpentine will dissolve off the fat. This may be 
applied with a camel's-hair brush. By dissecting under water 
the loose portions will float off, and render effective work more 
easy. Swammerdam, who had that most valuable requisite 
to a naturalist, unlimited patience, not only dissected out the 
parts, but with small glass tubes, fine as a hair, he injected the 
various tubes, as the alimentary canal and air-tubes. My 
reader, why may not you look in upon those wondrous beauties 
and marvels of God's own handiwork — nature's grand exposi- 
tion? Father, why would not a set of dissecting instruments 
be a most suitable gift to your son? You might thus sow the 
seed which would germinate into a Swammerdam, and that on 
your own hearth-stone. Messrs. Editors, why do not you, 
among your apiarian supplies, keep boxes of these instruments, 
and thus aid to light the torch of genius and hasten apiarian 
research ? 

TRANSFORMATIONS OF INSECTS. 

What in all the realm of nature is so worthy to awaken 
delight and admiration as the astonishing changes which insects 
undergo? Just think of the sluggish, repulsive caterpillar, 
dragging its heavy form over clod or bush, or mining in dirt 
and filth, changed, by the wand of nature's great magician, 
first into the motionless chrysalis, decked with green and gold, 
and beautiful as the gem that glitters on the finger of beauty, 
then bursting forth as the graceful, gorgeous butterfly ; which, 
by its brilliant tints and elegant poise, outrivals even the birds 
among the life-jewels of nature, and is made fit to revel in all 
her decorative wealth. The little fly, too, with wings dyed in 
rainbow-hues, flitting like a fairy from leaf to flower, was but 
yesterday the repulsive maggot, reveling in the veriest filth of 
decaying nature. The grub to-day drags its slimy shape 
through the slums of earth, on which it fattens ; to-morrow it 
will glitter as the brilliant setting in the bracelet and ear-drops 
of the gay and thoughtless belle. 



62 First Stage of Insects. 

There are four separate stages in the development of insects : 
The egg, the larva, the pupa, and the imago. 

THE EGG. 

This is not unlike the same in higher animals. It has its 
yolk and its surrounding white or albumin, like the eggs of 
all mammals, and farther, the delicate shell, which is familiar 
in the eggs of birds and reptiles. Eggs of insects are often 
beautiful in form and color, and not infrequently ribbed and 
fluted as by a master hand. The form of eggs is very various 
— spherical, oval, cylindrical, oblong, straight, and curved 
(Fig. 15, b). All insects seem to be guided by a wonderful 
knowledge, or instinct, or intelligence, in the placing of eggs 
on or near the peculiar food of the larva, even though in many 
cases such food is no part of the aliment of the imago. The 
fly has the refined habits of the epicure, from whose cup it 
daintily sips, yet its eggs are placed in the horse-droppings of 
stable and pasture. 

Inside the egg wonderful changes soon commence, and their 
consummation is a tiny larva. Somewhat similar changes can 
be easily and most profitably studied by breaking and exam- 
ining a hen's egg each successive day of incubation. As with 
the eggs of our own species and of all higher animals, the egg 
of insects, or the yolk, the essential part — the white is only 
food, so to speak — soon segments or divides into a great many 
cells which soon unite into a membrane, the blastoderm, which 
is the initial animal. This blastoderm soon forms a single 
sack, and not a double sack, one above the other, as in our 
own vertebrate branch. This sack, looking like a miniature 
bag of grain, grows by absorption, becomes articulated, and 
by budding out is soon provided with the various members. 
As in higher animals, these changes are consequent upon heat, 
and usually, not always, upon the incorporation within the 
eggs of the sperm cells from the male, which enter the eggs at 
openings called micropyles. The time it takes the embryo 
inside the egg to develop is gauged by heat, and will, therefore, 
vary with the season and temperature, though in different 
species it varies from days to months. The number of eggs 
which an insect may produce, is subject to wide variation. • 



Second Stage of Insects. 63 



THE LARVA OF INSECTS. 



From the egg comes the larva, also called grub, maggot, 
caterpillar, and very erroneously worm. These are worm- 
shaped (Fig. 14), usually have strong jaws, simple eyes, and 
the body plainly marked into ring divisions. Often, as in case 

Fig. 14. 




Larva of Bee. 

of some grubs, larval bees, and maggots, there are no legs. 
In most grubs there are six legs,' two to each of the three rings 
succeeding the head. Besides these, caterpillars have usually 
ten prop-legs farther back on the body, though a few — the 
loopers or measuring caterpillars — : have only four or six, while 
the larva? of the saw-flies haVe from twelve to sixteen of the 
false or prop-legs. The alimentary canal of larval insects is 
usually short, direct, and quite simple, while the sex-organs 
are slightly if at all developed. The larvse of insects are 
voracious eaters — indeed, their only work seems to be to eat 
and grow fat. As the entire growth occurs at this stage, their 
gormandizing habits are the more excusable. I have often 
been astonished at the amount of food that the insects in my 
breeding cases would consume. The length of time which 
insects remain as larvse is very variable. The maggot revels 
in decaying meat but two or three days ; the larval bee eats its 
rich pabulum for nearly a week ; the apple-tree borer gnaws 
away for three years ; while the seventeen-year cicada remains 
a larva for more than sixteen years, groping in darkness and 
feeding on roots, only to come forth for a few days of hilarity, 
sunshine, and courtship. Surely, here is patience exceeding 
even that of Swammerdam. The name larva, meaning masked, 
was given to this stage by Linnaaus, as the mature form of the 
insect is hidden, and cannot be even divined by the unlearned. 

THE PUPA OF INSECTS. 

In this stage the insect is in profound repose, as if resting 
after its meal, the better to enjoy its active, sportive days — the 



64 



The Pupa-Stage. 



joyous honey-moon — soon to come. At this time the insect 
may look like a seed, as in the coarctate pupa of diptera, so 
familiar in the "flax-seed" state of the Hessian-fly, or in the 
pupa of the cheese-maggot, or the meat-fly. This same form, 
with more or less modification, prevails in butterfly pupa?, 
called, because of their golden spots, chrysalids, and in the 
pupae of moths. Other pupae, as in the case of bees (Fig. 15, 
g) and beetlas, look not unlike the mature insect with its 

Fig. 15. 




Development of the Bee. 

antennae, legs, and wings closely bound to the body by a thin 
membrane, hence the name pupa which Linne gave — referring 
to this condition — as the insect looks as if wrapped in swaddling 
clothes, the old cruel way of torturing the infant, as if it 
needed holding together. Aristotle called pupae ' ' nymphs " — 
a name now given to this stage in bees — which name was 
adopted by many entomologists of the seventeenth and eighteenth 
centuries. Inside the pupa skin great changes are in progress, 
for either by modifying the larval organs or developing parts 
entirely new, by use of the accumulated material stored by the 
larva during its prolonged banquet, the wonderful transforma- 
tion from the sluggish, worm-like larva to the active, bird-like 



The Imago. 65 

imago is accomplished. Sometimes the pupa is surrounded by 
a silken cocoon, either thick, as the cocoon of some moths, or 
thin, as the cocoon of bees. These cocoons are spun by the 
larvae as their last toil before assuming the restful pupa 
state. The length of time in the pupa-stage varies from 
a few days to as many months. Sometimes insects which 
are two-brooded remain as pupae but a few days in summer, 
while in winter they are months passing the quiescent period. 
Our cabbage-butterfly illustrates thjis peculiarity. Others, like 
the Hessian-fly and codling-moth, remain through the long, 
cold months as larvae. How wonderful is this! The first 
brood of larvae change to pupae at once, the last brood, though 
the weather be just as hot, wait over inside the cocoon till the 
warm days of coming spring. 

THE IMAGO STAGE. 

This term refers to the last or winged form, and was given 
by Linnaeus because the image of the insect is noAv real and 
not masked as when in the larva state. Now the insect has its 
full-formed legs and wings, its compound eyes, complex 
mouth-parts, and the fully developed sex-organs. In fact, the 
whole purpose of the insect now seems to be to reproduce 
itself. Many insects do not even eat, only flit in merry 
marriage mood for a brief space, when the male flees this life 
to be quickly followed by the female, she only waiting to place 
her eggs where the prospective infants may find suitable food. 
Some insects not only place their eggs, but feed and care for 
their young, as do ants, wasps and bees. Again, as in case of 
some species of ants and bees, abortive females perform all, or 
most, of the labor in caring for the young. The life of the 
imago also varies much as to duration. Some live but for a 
day, others make merry for several days, while a few species 
live for months. Very few imagos survive the whole year. 

INCOMPLETE TRANSFORMATION. 

Some insects, like the bugs, lice, grasshoppers, and locusts, 
are quite alike at all stages of growth, after leaving the egg. 
The only apparent difference is the smaller size and the 
absence or incomplete development of the wings in the larvae 
and pupae. The habits and structure from first to last seem to 
be much the same. Here, as before, the full development of 
the sex-organs occurs only in the imago. 



66 Three Kinds of Bees in Each Colony. 



ANATOMY AND PHYSIOLOGY OF THE 
HONEY-BEE. 

With a knowledge of the anatomy and some glimpses of the 
physiology of insects in general, we shall now find it easy to 
learn the special anatomy and physiology of the highest in- 
sects of the order. 

THREE KINDS OF BEES IN EACH FAMILY. 

As we have already seen, a very remarkable feature in the 
economy of the honey-bee, described even by Aristotle, which 
is true of many other bees, and also of ants and many wasps, 
is the presence in each family of three distinct kinds, which 
differ in form, color, structure, size, habits and function. 
Thus Ave have the queen (Lubbock has shown that there are 
several queens in an ant colony), a number of drones, and a 
far greater number of workers. Huber, Bevan, Munn, and 
Kirby also speak of a fourth kind, blacker than the usual 
workers. These are accidental, and are, as conclusively shown 
by Von Berlepsch, ordinary workers, more deeply colored by 
age, loss of hair, dampness, or some other atmospheric con- 
dition. American apiarists are too familiar with these black 
bees, for after our severe winters, they prevail in the colony, 
and, as remarked by the noted Baron, "They quickly disap- 
pear. " Munn also tells of a fifth kind, with a top-knot, which 
appears at swarming seasons. I am at a great loss to know 
what he refers to, unless it be the pollen masses of the asclepias, 
or milk-weed, which sometimes fasten to our bees and become 
a severe burden. 

THE QUEEN' BEE. 

The queen (Fig. 16), although referred to as the mother 
bee, was called the king by Virgil, Pliny, and by writers as 
late as the last century, though in the ancient ' 'Bee Master's 
Farewell," by John Keys, published in London in 1796, I 
find an admirable description of the queen bee, with her func- 
tion correctly stated. Reaumur, as quoted by "Wildman on 
Bees," published in London in 1770, says "this third sort has 
a grave and sedate walk, is armed with a sting, and is mother 
of all the others. " 

Huber, to whom every apiarist owes so much, and who, 



Nature of Queen Bees. 



67 



though blind, through the aid of his devoted wife and intel- 
ligent servant, Frances Burnens, developed so many interest- 
ing truths, demonstrated the fact of the queen's maternity. 
This author's work, second edition, published in Edinburgh in 
1808, gives a full history of his wonderful observations and 
experiments, and must ever rank with Langstroth as a classic, 
worthy of study by all. 

The queen, then, is the mother bee ; in other words, a fully 
developed female. Her ovaries (Fig. 13, a, a) are very large, 
nearly filling her long abdomen. The tubes already described 
as composing them are very numerous, while the spermatheca 
(Fig. 13, e) is plainly visible. This is muscular, receives 
abundant nerves, and thus, without doubt, may or may not be 
compressed to force the sperm cells into contact with the eggs as 
they pass by the duct. Leukart estimates that the spermatheca 
will hold more than 25,000,000 spermatozoa. 

Fig. 18. 



Fig. 17. 



Fig. 16. 





Queen Bee, magnified. 



Labium of Queen. • 

a— Ligula. 

d, d — Paraglossse. 

6— Labial palpi. 



t— Tibia. 

t, s — Tarsal joints. 



Part of Leg of Queen, magnified. 

p— Broadened tibia and basal tarsus. 



The possession of the ovaries and attendant organs, is the 



68 Structure of Queen B&>. 

chief structural peculiarity which marks the queen, as these 
are the characteristic marks of females among all animals. 
But she has other peculiarities worthy of mention: She is 
longer than either drones or workers, being more than seven- 
eighths of an inch in length, and, with her long tapering 
abdomen, is not without real grace and beauty. The queen's 
mouth organs are developed to a less degree than are those of 
the worker bees. Her jaws (Fig. 24, b) or mandibles are 
weaker, with a rudimentary tooth, and her tongue or ligula 
(Fig. 17, a), as also the labial palpi (Fig. 17, b) andmaxillse, 
are considerably shorter. Her eyes, like the same in the 
worker-bee (Fig. 5) , are smaller than" those of the drones, and 
do not meet above. So the three ocelli are situated above and 
between the compound eyes. The queen's wings (Fig. 16) are 
relatively shorter than those of either the Avorkers or drones, 
for instead of attaining to the end of the body, they reach but 
little beyond the third joint of the abdomen. The queen, 
though she has the characteristic posterior tibia and basal 
tarsus (Fig. 18, p), in respect to breadth, has not the cavity 
'and surrounding hairs which form the pollen baskets of the 
workers. The queen possesses a sting which is longer than 
that of the workers, and resembles that of the bumble-bees in 
being curved, and that of bumble-bees and wasps in having 
few and short barbs— the little projections which point back 
like the barb of a fish-hook, and which, in case of the workers, 
prevent the withdrawing of the instrument, when once fairly 
inserted. While there are seven quite prominent barbs on 
each shaft of the worker's sting, there are only three on those 
of the queen, and these are very short, and, as in a worker's 
sting, are successively shorter as we recede from the point of 
the weapon. Aristotle says that the queen will seldom use her 
sting, which I have found true. I have often tried to provoke 
a queen's anger, but never with any evidence of success. 
Neighbour (page 14, note) gives three cases where queens used 
their stings, in one of which cases she was disabled from 
farther egg-laying. She stings with slight effect. 

The queen, like the neuters, is developed from an impreg- 
nated egg, which, of course, could only come from a queen 
that had previously mated. These eggs are not placed in a 
horizontal cell, but in one specially prepared for their recep- 
tion (Fig. 15, i). The queen cells are usually built on the 



Queen Cells. 69 

edge of the comb, or around an opening in it, which is neces- 
sitated from their size and form, as visually the combs are too 
close together to permit their location elsewhere. These cells 
extend either vertically or diagonally downward, are composed 
of wax mixed with pollen, and in size and form much resemble 
a pea-nut. The eggs must be placed in these cells, either by 
the queen or workers. Huber, who though blind had won- 
drous eyes, Avitnessed the act. I have frequently seen eggs 
in these cells, and without exception in the exact position in 
which the queen always places her eggs in the other cells. 
John Keys, in the old work already referred to, whose descrip- 
tions, though penned so long ago, are wonderfully accurate 
and indicate great care, candor, and conscientious truthfulness, 
asserts that the queen is five times' as long laying a royal egg 
as she is the others. From the character of his work, and its 
early publication, I can but think that he had witnessed this 
rare sight. Some candid apiarists of our own time and 
country — E. Gallup among the rest — claim to have witnessed 
the act. The eggs are so well glued, and are so delicate, that, 
with Neighbour, I should doubt the possibility of a removal 
except that some persons assert that they have positive proof 
that it is sometimes done. Possibly the young larvse may at 
times be removed from one cell to another. The opponents to 
this view base their belief on a supposed discord between the 
queen and neuters. This antagonism is inferred, and I have 
but little faith in the inference, or the argument from it. I 
know that when royal cells are to be torn down, and inchoate 
queens destroyed, the workers aid the queen in this destruc- 
tion. I have also seen queens pass by unguarded queen-cells, 
and yet respect them. I have also seen several young queens 
dwelling amicably together in the same hive. Is it not 
probable that the bees are united in whatever is to be accom- 
plished, and that when queens are to be destroyed all spring to 
the work, and when they are to live all regard them as sacred? 
It is true that the actions of bees are controlled and influenced 
by the surrounding conditions or circumstances, but I have 
yet to see satisfactory proof of the old theory that these condi- 
tions impress differently the queen and the workers. The con- 
ditions which lead to the building of queen-cells and the 
peopling of the same are : Loss of queen, when a worker 
larva from one to four days old will be surrounded by a cell ; 



70 * Royal Jelly. 

inability of a queen to lay impregnated eggs, her spermatheca 
having become emptied; great n amber of worker-bees in the 
hive ; restricted quarters ; the queen not having place to de- 
posit eggs, or the workers little or no room to store honey ; or 
lack of ventilation, so that the hive becomes too close. These 
last three conditions are most likely to occur at times of great 
honey secretion. 

A queen may be developed from an egg, or, as first 
shown by Schirach, from a worker larva less than three days 
old. (Mr. Doolittle has known queens to be reared from 
worker larva 1 taken at four-and-a-half days from hatching.) 
In the latter case, the cells adjacent to the one containing the 
selected larva are removed, and the larva surrounded by a 
royal cell. The development of the queen larva is much like 
that of the worker, soon to be detailed, except that it is more 
rapid, and the queen larva is fed richer and more plenteous 
food, called royal jelly. This peculiar food, as also its use and 
abundance in the cell, was first described by Schirach, a Saxon 
clergyman, who wrote a work on bees in 1771. According to 
Hunter, this royal pabulum is richer in nitrogen than that of 
the common larvae. It is thick, like rich cream ; slightly 
yellow, and so abundant that the queen larva not onty floats 
in it during all its period of growth, but quite a large amount 
remains after her queenship vacates the cell. We often find 
this royal jelly in incomplete queen-cells, without larvae. Mr. 
Q.uinby suggested that this is stored for future use. 

What a mysterious circumstance is this: These royal scions 
simply receive a more abundant and sumptuous diet, and 
occupy a more ample habitation — for I have more than once 
confirmed the statement of Mr. Quinby, that the direction of 
the cell is immaterial — and yet what a marvelous transforma- 
tion. Not only are the ovaries developed and filled with eggs, 
but the mouth-organs, the wings, the legs, the sting, aye, even 
the size, form, and habits, are all wondrously changed. That 
the development of parts should be accelerated, and the size 
increased, is not so surprising — as in breeding other insects I 
have frequently found that kind and amount of food would 
hasten or retard growth, and might even cause a dwarfed 
imago — but that food should so essentially modify the struc- 
ture, is certainly a rare and unique circumstance, hardly to be 
found except here and in related animals. Bevan has sug- 



Development of Queen* 71 

gested that fertile workers, while larvae, have received some of 
this royal jelly, from their position near a developing queen. 
Langstroth supposes that they receive some royal jelly, pur- 
posely given by the workers, and I had previously thought 
this reasonable and probably true. But these pests of the 
apiarist, and especially of the breeder, almost always, so far as 
I have observed, make their appearance in colonies long 
queenless, and I have noticed a case similar to that given by 
Quinby, where these occurred in a nucleus where no queen 
had been developed. May it not be true that a desire for 
eggs stimulates the growth of the ovaries, growth of eggs in the 
ovarian tubes, and consequent ability totleposit? The com- 
mon high-holder, Colaptes auratus — a bird belonging to the 
wood-pecker family, usually lays five eggs, and only five ; but 
let cruel hands rob her of these promises of future loved ones, 
and, wondrous to relate, she continues to lay more than a 
score. One thus treated, here on the College campus, actually 
laid more than thirty eggs. So we see that animal desires 
may influence and move organs that are generally independ- 
ent of the will. 

The larval queen is longer, and more rapid of development 
than the other larva?. When developed from the egg — as in 
case of normal swarming — the larva feeds for five days, when 
the cell is capped by the workers. The infant queen then 
spins her cocoon, which occupies about one day. The end of 
the cocoon is left open. Some one has suggested that this is 
an act of thoughtful generosity on the part of the queen larva, 
thus to render her own destruction more easy, should the wel- 
fare of the colony demand it, as now a sister queen may safely 
give the fatal sting. The queen now spends nearly three days 
in absolute repose. Such rest is common to all cocoon-spinning 
larvse. The spinning, which is done by a rapid motion to-and- 
fro of the head, always carrying the delicate thread, much 
like the moving shuttle of the weaver, seems to bring exhaus- 
tion and need of repose. She now assumes the nymph, or 
pupa, state (Fig.' 15, i). At the end of the sixteenth day she 
comes forth a queen. Huber states that when a queen 
emerges the bees are thrown into a joyous excitement, so that 
he noticed a rise in temperature in the hive from 92° F. to 
104° F. I have never tested this matter accurately, but I 
have failed to notice any marked demonstration on the natal 



72 Mating of the Queen. 

day of her lady-ship the queen, or extra respect paid her as a 
virgin. When queens are started from worker larvae, they 
will issue as imagos in ten or twelve days from the date of 
their new prospects. Mr. Doolittle writes me that he has 
known them to issue in eight and one-half days. My own ob- 
servations sustain the assertion of Mr. P. L. Viallon that the 
minimum time is nine and one-half days. 

As the queen's development is probably due to superior 
quality and increased quantity of food, it would stand to 
reason that queens started from eggs are preferable ; the more 
so as, under normal circumstances, I believe they are almost 
always thus start*!. The best experience sustains this posi- 
tion. As the proper food and temperature can best be 
secured in a full colony — and here again the natural economy 
of the hive adds to our argument — we should infer that the 
best queens would be reared in strong colonies, or at least kept 
in such colonies till the cells were capped. Experience also 
confirms this view. As the quantity and quality of food and 
the general activity of the bees ■ are directly connected with 
the full nourishment of the queen-larva, and as these are 
only at the maximum in times of active gathering — the time 
when queen-rearing is naturally started by the bees — we 
should also conclude that queens reared at such seasons are 
superior. My experience — and I have carefully observed in 
this connection — most emphatically sustains this view. 

Five or six days after issuing from the cell — Neighbour 
says the third day — if the day is pleasant the queen goes forth 
on her "marriage flight;" otherwise she will improve the first 
pleasant day thereafter for this purpose. Huber was the first 
to prove that impregnation always takes place on the wing. 
Bonnet also proved that the same is true of ants, though in 
this case millions of queens and drones often swarm out at 
once. I have myself witnessed several of these wholesale 
matrimonial excursions among' ants. I have also frequently 
taken bumble-bees that were copulating while on the wing. I 
have also seen both ants and bumble-bees fall while united, 
probably borne down by the expiring males. That butterflies, 
moths, dragon-flies, etc., mate on the wing is a matter of 
common observation. It has generally been thought impossi- 
ble for queens in confinement to be impregnated. Prof. 
Leuckart believes that successful mating demands that the 



Mating oj the Queen. 73 

large air-sacks (Fig. 2, /) of the drones shall be filled, which 
he thinks is only possible during flight. The demeanor of the 
drones suggests that the excitement of flight, like the warmth 
of the hand, is necessary to induce the sexual impulse. 

Many others with myself have followed Huber in clipping 
the virgin queen's wing, only to produce a sterile, or drone 
laying queen. One queen, "however, the past season, whose 
wing was clipped just as she came from the cell, and the en- 
trance to whose hive was guarded by perforated zinc so the 
queen could not get out, was impregnated, and proved an ex- 
cellent queen. So it seems more than possible- that mating in 
confinement may yet become practicable. 

If the queen fails to find an admirer the first day, she will 
go forth again and again till she succeeds. Huber states that 
after twenty-one days the case is hopeless. Bevan states that 
if impregnated from the fifteenth to the twenty-first she will be 
largely a drone laying queen. That such absolute dates can 
be fixed in either of the above cases is very questionable. 
Yet all experienced breeders know that queens kept through 
the winter as virgins are sure to remain so. It is quite likely 
that the long inactivity of the spermatheca wholly or in part 
paralyzes it, so that queens that are late in mating cannot im- 
pregnate the eggs as they desire. This would accord with 
what we know of other muscular organs. Berlepsch believed 
that a queen that commenced laying as a virgin could never 
lay impregnated eggs, even though she afterwards mated. 
Langstroth thought that he had observed to the contrary. 

If the queen be observed after a successful "wedding tour," 
she will be seen, as first pointed out by Huber, to bear the 
marks of success in the pendant drone appendages, consisting 
of the penis, the yellow cul-de-sacks, and the hanging thread- 
like ducts (Fig. 12), which are still held in the vulva of the 
queen. 

It is not at all likely that a queen, after she has met a 
drone, ever leaves the hive again except when she leaves with 
a swarm. Some of the observing apiarists think that an old 
queen may be again impregnated. The fact that queens, with 
clipped wings, are fertile as long as others, makes me think 
that cases which have led to such conclusions are capable of 
other explanation. 

If the queen lays eggs before meeting the drone, or if for 



74 Parthenogenesis. 

any reason she fails to mate, her eggs will only produce male 
bees. This strange anomaly — development of the eggs with- 
out impregnation — was discovered and proved by Dzierzon, in 
1845. Dr. Dzierzon, who, as a student of practical and scien- 
tific apiculture, must rank with the great Huber, is a Roman 
Catholic priest of Carlsmarkt, Germany. This doctrine — 
called parthenogenesis, which means produced from a virgin 
— is still doubted by some quite able bee-keepers, though the 
proofs are irrefragable : 1st. Unmated queens will lay eggs 
that will develop, but drones always result. 2d. Old queens 
often become drone-layers, but examination shows that the 
spermatheca is void of seminal fluid. Such an examination 
was first made by Prof. Siebold, the great German anatomist, 
in 1843, and later by Leuckart and Leidy. I have myself 
made several such examinations. The spermatheca can easily 
be seen by the unaided vision, and by crushing it on a glass 
slide, by compressing with a thin glass cover, the difference be- 
tween the contained fluid in the virgin and in the impreg- 
nated queen is very patent, even with a low power. In the 
latter it is more viscid and yellow, and the vesicle more dis- 
tended. By use of a high power, the active spermatozoa or 
sperm-cells become visible. 3d. Eggs in drone-cells are 
found by the microscopist to be void of the sperm-cells, which 
are always found in all other fresh-laid eggs. This most con- 
vincing and interesting observation was first made by Von 
Siebold, at the suggestion of Berlepsch. It is quite difficult 
to show this. Leuckart tried before Von Siebold, at Ber- 
lepsch's apiary, but failed. I have also tried to discover these 
sperm-cells in worker-eggs, but as yet have been unsuccess- 
ful. Siebold has noted the same facts in eggs of wasps. 4th. 
Dr. Donhoff, of Germany, in 1855, took an egg from a drone- 
cell, and by artificial impregnation produced a worker-bee. 
Such an operation, to be successful, must be performed as 
soon as the egg is laid. 

Parthenogenesis, in the production of males, has also been 
found by Siebold to be true of other bees and wasps, and of 
some of the lower moths in the production of both males and 
females. Adler has shown that this agamic reproduction 
prevails among the Chalcididse, a family of parasitic Hymenop- 
tera, and it has long been known to characterize the cynips or 
gall-flies ; while the great Bonnet first discovered what may be 



Parthenogenesis in Other Insects. 75 

noticed on any summer day all about us ? even on the house- 
plants at our very windows, that parthenogenesis is best illus- 
trated by the aphides, or plant lice. In the fall males and 
females appear which mate, when the females lay eggs which 
in the spring produce only females ; these again produce only, 
females, and thus on for several generations, till with the cold 
of autumn come again the males and females. Bonnet ob- 
served seven successive generations of productive virgins. 
Duval noted nine generations in seven months, while Kyber 
observed production exclusively by parthenogenesis in a heated 
room for four years. So, we see that this strange and almost 
incredible method of increase is not rare in the great insect 
world. 

About two days after she is impregnated, the queen, under 
normal circumstances, commences to lay, usually worker-eggs, 
and if the condition of the hive impels to no further swarming 
that season, no drones will be required and so only worker- 
eggs will be laid. In many localities and in certain favorable 
years in all localities, however, further swarming will occur. 

It is frequently noticed that the young queen at first lays 
quite a number of drone-eggs. Queen-breeders often observe 
this in their nuclei. This continues for only a few days. 
This does not seem strange. The act of forcing the sperm-cells 
from the spermatheca is muscular and voluntary, and that 
these muscles should not always act promptly at first, is not 
strange, nor is it unprecedented. Mr. Wagner suggested that 
the size of the cell determined the sex, as in the small cells 
the pressure on the abdomen forced the fluid from the sperma- 
theca. Mr. Quinby also favored this view. I greatly ques- 
tion this theory. All observing apiarists have known eggs to 
be laid in worker-cells, ere the cell was hardly commenced, 
when there could be no pressure. In case of queen-cells, too, 
if the queen does lay the eggs — as I believe — these would be 
unimpregnated, as the cell is very large. I know the queen 
sometimes passes from drone to worker-cells very abruptly 
while laying, as I have witnessed such a procedure — the same 
that so greatly rejoiced the late Baron of Berlepsch, after 
weary hours of watching — but that she can thus control at the 
instant this process of adding or withholding the sperm-cells 
certainly seems not so strange as that the spermatheca, hardly 
bigger than a pin-head, could supply these cells for months, yes, 



76 Sex Determined by the Queen. 

and for years. Who that has seen the bot-fly dart against 
the horse's legs, and as surely leave the tiny yellow egg, can 
doubt but that insects possess very sensitive oviducts, and can 
extrude the minute eggs jmt at pleasure. That a queen may 
force single eggs, at will, past the mouth of the spermatheca, 
and at the same time add or Avithhold the sperm-cells, is, I 
think, without question, true. What gives added force to 
this view is the fact that other bees, wasps and ants exercise 
the same volition, and can have no aid from cell-pressure, as 
all the eggs are laid in receptacles of the same size. As al- 
ready remarked, the males and workers of Apis dorsata are 
developed in the same sized cells, while the males of A. 
Indica are smaller than the workers. The Baron of Berlepsch, 
worthy to be a friend of Dzierzon, has fully decided the matter. 
He has shown that old drone cells are as small as new worker- 
cells, and yet each harbors its own brood. Very small queens, 
too, make no mistakes. With no drone-cells, the queen will 
sometimes lay drone-eggs in worker-cells, in which drones will 
then be reared, and she will, if she must, though with great 
reluctance, lay worker-eggs in drone-cells. 

Before laying an egg, the queen takes a look into the cell, 
probably to see if all is right. If the cell contains any honey, 
pollen, or an egg, she usually passes it by, though when 
crowded, a queen will sometimes, especially if young, insert 
two or three eggs in a cell, and sometimes, when in such cases 
she drops them, the bees show their dislike of waste, a» d 
appreciation of good living, by making a breakfast of them. 
If the queen find the cell to her liking, she turns about, in- 
serts her abdomen, and in an instant the tiny egg is glued in 
position (Fig. 15, 6) to the bottom of the cell. 

The queen, when considered in relation to the other bees of 
the colony, possesses a surprising longevity. It is not uncom- 
mon for her to attain the age of three years in the full posses- 
sion of her powers, while queens have been known to do good 
work for five years. Lubbock has queen ants in his nests that 
are eight years old, and still they are vigorous layers. Queens, 
often at the expiration of one, two, three or four years, de- 
pending on their vigor and excellence, either cease to be 
fertile, or else become impotent to lay impregnated eggs — the 
spermatheca having become emptied of its sperm cells. In 
such cases the workers usually supersede the queen, that is, 



Longevity and Function of Queen. 77 

they rear a new queen, before all the worker-eggs are gone, 
and then destroy the old one. 

It sometimes happens, though rarely, that a fine-looking 
queen, with full-formed ovaries and large spermatheca well- 
filled with male fluid, will deposit freely, but none of the eggs 
will hatch. Readers of bee-papers know that I have frequent- 
ly received such for dissection. The first I ever got was a 
remarkably fine looking Italian, received from the late Dr. 
Hamlin, of Tennessee. All such queens that I have examined 
seem perfect, even though scrutinized with a high power ob- 
jective. We can only say that the egg is at fault, as fre- 
quently transpires with higher animals, even to the highest. 
These females are barren ; through some fault with the ovaries, 
the eggs grown therein are sterile. To detect just what is the 
trouble with the egg is a very difficult problem, if it is capable 
of .solution at all. I have tried to determine the ultimate 
cause, but without success. 

The function of the queen is simply to lay eggs, and thus 
keep the colony populous, and this she does with an energy 
that is fairly startling. A good queen in her best estate will 
lay two or three thousand eggs a day. I have seen a queen 
in my oberving hive lay for some time at the rate of four 
eggs per minute, and have proved by actual computation of 
brood cells that a queen may lay over three thousand eggs 
in a day. Langstroth and Berlepsch both saw queens lay at 
the rate of six eggs a minute. The latter had a queen that, 
laid three thousand and twenty-one eggs in twenty-four hours, 
by actual count, and in twenty days she laid fifty-seven thou- 
sand. This queen continued prolific for five years, and must 
have laid, says the Baron, at a low estimate more than 1,300,- 
000 eggs. Dzierzon says queens may lay 1,000,000 eggs, and I 
think these authors have not exaggerated. Yet, with even 
these figures as an advertisement, the queen bee cannot boast 
of superlative fecundity, as the queen AA'hTte-ant — an insect 
closely related to the bees in habits, though not in structure, 
as the white-ants are lace-wings and belong to the sub-order 
Neuroptera, which includes our day-flies, dragon-flies, etc. — 
is known to lay over 80,000 eggs daily. Yet this poor help- 
less thing, whose abdomen is the size of a man's thumb and 
composed almost wholly of eggs, while the rest of her body is 
not larger than the same in our common ants, has no other 



78 Fecundity of Queen. 

amusement ; she cannot walk ; she cannot even feed herself, 
or care for her eggs. What wonder then that she should 
attempt big things in the way of egg-laying? She has nothing 
else to do, or to feel proud of. 

Different queens vary as much in fecundity as do different 
breeds of fowls. Some queens are so prolific that they fairly de- 
mand hives of India rubber to accommodate them, keeping their 
hives gushing with bees and profitable activity ; while others 
are so inferior that the colonies make a poor, sickly effort to 
survive at all, arid usually succumb early, before those ad- 
verse circumstances which are ever waiting to confront all 
life on the globe. The activity of the queen is governed 
largely by the activity of the workers. The queen will either 
lay sparingly, or stop altogether, in the interims of storing 
honey, while, on the other hand, she is stimulated to lay to 
her utmost capacity when all is life and activity in the hive. 
This refusal to lay when nectar is wanting does not hold true, 
apparently, with the Cyprian and the Syrian bees. 

It would seem that the queen either reasons from conditions, 
is taught by instinct, or else that without her volition the 
general activity of the worker-bees stimulates the ovaries, how 
we know not, to grow more eggs. We know that such a 
stimulus is born of desire, in case of the high-holder already 
referred to. That the queen may have control of the activity 
of„ her ovaries, either directly or indirectly, through reflex 
nervous action induced by the general excitement of the bees, 
Which always follows active storing, is not only possible but is 
quite likely. 

The old poetical notion that the queen is the revered and 
admired sovereign of the colony, whose pathway is ever lined 
by obsequious courtiers, whose person is ever the recipient of 
loving caresses, and whose will is law in this bee-hive king- 
dom, controlling all the activities inside the hive and leading 
the colony whithersoever it may go, is unquestionably mere 
fiction. In the hive, as in the world, individuals are valued 
for what they are worth. The queen, as the most important 
individual, is regarded with solicitude, and her removal or loss 
is noted with consternation, as the welfare of the colony is 
threatened ; yet, let the queen become useless, and she is 
despatched with the same absence of emotion that charac- 
terizes the destruction of the drones when they have become 



Tlie Drones. 79 

supernumeraries. It is very doubtful if emotion and senti- 
mentality are ever moving forces among the lower animals. 
There are probably certain natural principles that govern in 
the economy of the hive, and anything that conspires against, 
or tends to intercept, the action of these principles, becomes 
an enemy to the bees. All are interested, and doubtless more 
united than is generally believed, in a desire to promote the 
free action of these principles. No doubt the principle of an- 
tagonism among the various bees has been overrated. Even 
"the drones, when they are being killed off in the autumn, 
make a sickly show of defense, as much as to say, the welfare 
of the colony demands that such worthless vagrants should be 
exterminated. The statement that there is often serious 
antagonism between the queen and workers, as to the destruc- 
tion or preservation of inchoate queens, yet in the cell, is a 
matter which may well be investigated. It is most probable 
that what tends most for the prosperity of the colony is well 
understood by all, and without doubt there is harmonious 
action among all the denizens of the hive to foster that which 
will advance the general welfare, or to make war on whatever 
may tend to interfere with it. If the course of any of the 
bees seems wavering and inconsistent, we may rest assured 
that circumstances have changed, and that could we perceive 
the bearing of all the surrounding conditions, all would appear 
consistent and harmonious. 

THE DRONES. 

These are the male bees, and are generally found in the 
hive only from May to November ; though they may remain 
all winter, and are not infrequently absent during the sum- 
mer. Their presence or absence depends on the present and 
prospective condition of the colony. If they are needed, or 
likely to be needed, then they are present. There are in 
nature several hundred in each colony. The number may 
and should be greatly reduced by the apiarist. The drones 
(Fig. 19) are shorter than the queen, being less than three- 
fourths of an inch in length, are more robust and bulky than 
either the queen or workers, and are easily recognized when 
flying by their loud, startling hum. As in other societies, the 
least useful make the most noise. This loud hum is caused 
by the less rapid vibration of their large, heavy wings. Their 



80 



Description of Drones. 



flight is more heavy and lumbering than that of the workers. 
Their ligula, labial palpi and maxillae — like the same in the 
queen bee — are short, while their jaws (Fig. 24, a) possess 
the rudimentary tooth, and are much the same in form as 
those of the queen, but are heavier, though not so strong as 
those of the workers. Their eyes (Fig. 4) are very prominent, 
meet above, and thus the simple eyes are thrown forward. 
Their posterior legs are convex on the outside (Fig. 20), so, 
like the queens, they have no pollen baskets. The drones are 
without the defensive organ, having no sting, while their 
special sex-organs (Fig. 12) are not unlike those of other 
insects, and have already been sufficiently described. 

" Fig. 20. 



Fk,. 19. 




Drone Bee, magnified. 




Part of Leg of Drone, magnified. 

t— Tibia. 

p— Broadened tibia and basal tarsus. 

ts — Joints of Tarsus. 

c— Claws. 

It was discovered by Dzierzon, in 1845, that the drones 
hatch from unimpregnated eggs. This strange phenomenon, 



Drones from Unimpregnated Eggs. 81 

seemingly so incredible, is, as has been shown in speaking of 
the queen, easily proved and beyond question. These eggs 
may come from an unimpregnated queen, a fertile worker — 
which will soon be described — or an impregnated queen who 
may voluntarily prevent impregnation. It is asserted by some 
that the workers can change a worker egg to a drone egg at 
will. When the workers are able to abstract the sperm cells, 
which are so small that we can only see them by using a high 
power microscope, then we may expect to see wheat turn to 
chess. Such eggs will usually be placed in the larger hori- 
zontal cells (Fig. 31, a), in manner already described. As 
stated by Bevan, the drone feeds six and a half days as a larva, 
before the cell is capped. The capping of the drone-cells is 
very convex, and projects beyond the plane of the same in 
worker-cells, so that the drone brood is easily distinguished 
from worker, and from the darker color — the wax being thicker 
and less pure — the capping of both drone and worker brood- 
cells -enables us easily to distinguish them from honey-cells. 
In twenty-four days from the laying of the eggs, the drones 
come forth from the cells. Of course, variation of tempera- 
ture and other conditions, as variable amount of- diet, may 
slightly retard or advance the development of any brood, in 
the different stages. The drones — in fact all bees — when they 
first emerge from the cells, are gray, soft, and appear gener- 
ally unsophisticated. 

Just what the longevity of the male bee is, I am unable to 
state. It is probable, judging from analogy, that they live 
till accident, the worker bees, or the^ performance of their 
natural function causes their death. 'The worker-bees may 
kill off the drones at any time, which they do by constantly 
biting and worrying them. They may also destroy the drone- 
brood. It is not very rare to see workers carrying out imma- 
ture drones even in mid-summer. At the same time they may 
destroy inchoate queens. Such action is prompted by a sudden 
check in the yield of honey, and in case of drones is only com- 
mon at the close of the season. The bees seem very cautious and 
far-sighted. If the signs of the times presage a famine, they 
stay all proceedings looking to the increase of colonies. On 
the other hand, unlimited honey, rapid increase of brood, 
crowded quarters — whatever the age of the queen — are sure to 
bring many of the male bees, while any circumstances that 

6 



82 Longevity and Function of Drone*. 

indicate a need of drones in the near future, will prevent their 
destruction even in late autumn. 

The function of the drones is solely to impregnate the queen, 
though when present they may add animal heat. That their 
nutrition is active, is suggested by the fact that, upon dissec- 
tion, we always find their capacious stomachs filled with honey. 

Impregnation of the queen always takes place, as before 
stated, while on the wing, outside the hive, usually during the 
heat of a warm sunshiny day. After mating, the drone organs 
adhere to the queen, and may be seen hanging to her for some 
hours. The copulatory act is fatal to the drone. By holding 
a drone in the hand, the ejection of the sex-organs is often 
produced, and is always followed by immediate death. As the 
queen only meets a single drone, and that only once, it might 
be asked why nature was so improvident as to decree hundreds 
of drones to an apiary or colony, whereas a score would suffice 
as well. Nature takes cognizance of the importance of the 
queen, and as she goes forth amidst the myriad dangers of the 
outer world, it is safest and best that her stay abroad be not 
protracted, that the experience be not repeated, and, especially, 
that her meeting a drone be not delayed. Hence the super- 
abundance of drones — especially under natural conditions, 
isolated in forest homes, where ravenous birds are ever on the 
alert for insect game — is most wise and provident. Nature is 
never " penny wise and pound foolish." In our apiaries the 
need is wanting, and the condition, as it exists in nature, is 
not enforced. 

The fact that parthenogenesis prevails in the production of 
the drones, has led to the theory that from a pure queen, 
however mated, must ever come a pure drone. My own ex- 
perience and observation, which I believe are those of all 
apiarists, have confirmed this theory. Yet, if the impure 
mating of our cows, horses, and fowls, renders the females of 
mixed blood ever afterward, as is believed and taught by many 
who would seem most competent to judge — though I must 
say I am somewhat skeptical in the matter, then we must 
look closely as to our bees, for certainly, if a mammal, and 
especially a fowl, is tainted by impure mating, then we may 
expect the same of insects. In fowls such influence, if it 
exists, must come simply from the presence in the female 
generative organs of the sperm-cells, or spermatozoa, and in 



Worker-Bees. 83 

mammals, too, there is little more than this, for though they 
are viviparous, so that the union and contact of the offspring 
and mother seem very intimate, during fetal development, 
yet there is no intermingling of blood, for a membrane ever 
separates that of the mother from that of the fetus, and only 
the nutritious and waste elements pass from one to the other. 
To claim that the mother is tainted through the circulation, 
is like claiming that the same result would follow her inhaling 
the breath of her progeny after birth. If such taint is pro- 
duced, it probably comes through the power of a cell to change 
those cells contiguous to it. That cells have such power is 
proved every day in case of wounds, and the spread of any 
disease. I can only say, that I believe this whole matter is 
still involved in doubt, and still needs more careful, scientific 
and prolonged observation. 

THE NEUTERS, OR WORKER-BEES. 

These, called ' ' the bees " by Aristotle, and even by Wild- 
man and Bevan, are by far the most numerous individuals of 
the hive — there being from 15,000 to 40,000 in every good 
colony. It is possible for a colony to be even much more 
populous than this. (Lubbock says that there are often 50,000 
worker-ants in a nest.) These are also the smallest bees of 
the colony, as they measure but little more than one-half of an 
inch in length (Fig. 21). 

Fig. 21. 




Worker-Bee, magnified. 

The workers — as taught by Schirach, and proved by Mile. 
Jurine, of Geneva, Switzerland, who, at the request of Huber, 
sought for and found, by aid of her microscope, the abortive 
ovaries — are undeveloped females. Rarely, and probably 
very rarely except when a colony is long or often queenless, as 
is frequently true of our nuclei, these bees are so far developed 



84 Fertile Workers. 

as to produce eggs, which, of course, would always be drone 
eggs. Such workers — known as ' ' fertile " — were first noticed 
by Riem, while Huber saw one in the act of egg-laying. 
Paul L. Viallon and others have seen the same thing often. 
Several fertile Avorkers, sent me by Mr. Viallon, were examin- 
ed and the eggs and ovaries were plainly visible, though no 
spermatheca was to be seen. Except in the power to pro- 
duce eggs, they seem not unlike the other workers. Huber 
supposed that these were reared in cells contiguous to royal 
cells, and thus received roya,l food by accident. The fact, as 
stated by Mr. Quinby, that these occur in colonies where 
queen-larvae were never reared is fatal to the above theory. 
Langstroth and Berlepsch thought that these'bees, while larvae, 
were fed, though too sparingly, with the royal aliment, by 
bees in need of a queen, and hence the accelerated develop- 
ment. Such may be the true explanation. Yet if, as some 
apiarists aver, these appear where no brood has been fed, and 
so must be common workers, changed after leaving the cell, 
as the result of a felt need, then we must conclude that develop- 
ment and growth — as with the high-holder — spring from de- 
sire. The generative organs are very sensitive, and exceed- 
ingly susceptible to impressions, and we may yet have much 
to learn as to the delicate forces which will move them to 
growth and activity. Though these fertile workers are a poor 
substitute for a queen, as they are incapable of producing any 
bees but drones, and are surely the harbingers of death and ex- 
tinction to the colony, yet they seem to satisfy the workers, for 
usually the workers will not brook the presence of a queen when 
a fertile worker is in the hive, nor will they suffer the existence 
in the hive of a queen-cell, even though capped. They seem 
to be satisfied, though they have very slight reason to be so. 
These fertile workers lay indifferently in large or small cells — 
often place several eggs in a single cell, and show their in- 
capacity in various ways. Fertile workers seem to appear 
more quickly and in greater abundance in colonies of 
Cyprian and Syrian bees, after they become hopelessly queen- 
less, than in Italian colonies. 

The maxillae and labium of the worker bee are much 
elongated (Fig. 22). The maxillae (Fig. 22, A, mx,.mx) are 
deeply grooved, and are hinged to the head by strong chiti- 
nous rods (Fig. 22, A, c, c, St, St), to which are attached the 



Tongue of a Worker Bee. 



85 



muscles which move these parts. The gutter-like extremities 
(Fig. 22, A, I, I) are stiffened with chitine, and, when approx- 

Fig. 22. . 
if 




Tongue of a Worker-Bee, much magnified. 



A— Maxillaa and labium. 
mp, mp —Max. palpi. fc, h— Labia palpi, 

o— Sub mentum. t— Tongue, 

m— Mentum. /—Funnel. 

p, p— Paraglossae. 
B— Ijigula, with sack distended. 
•—Colorless membrane. /—Funnel. B— Tubular rod. 

C— Cross-section of ligula. 
R— Tubular rod. s, s— Colorless membrane. 

(The above fig. is drawn to same scale as Fig. 17.) 



mx, ma;— Maxillae. 
e, e— Cardos. 
St, St— Stipes. 
1,1— Lacinise. 



S— Sheath. 



86 Mouth Paris of Workers. 

imated, form a tube which is continued by a membrane to the 
mouth opening of the pharynx, just between the bases of the 
jaws. This tube forms the largest channel through which 
nectar passes to the pharynx. The labium varies in length 
from .23 to .27 of an inch. By the sub-mentum (Fig. 22 
A, o) and two chitinous rods (Fig. 22, A, b, 6) it is hinged to 
the maxillae. The base or mentum (Fig. 22 A, m) is tubu- 
lar. The lower part of the tube is thick with chitine, the upper 
part membranous. This tube opens into the pharynx and 
extends into the tongue. From the mentum extend the 
tongue or ligula (Figure 22, A, t), the paraglossse (Fig. 22, A, 
p, p), whose sack-like bases connect with the tube of the 
mentum, and the labial palpi (Fig 22, k, k), which, in arrange- 
ment, form and function, resemble the maxilla?. The tongue 
consists of an annulated sheath (Fig. 22, B and C, S) which 
is slitted along its under side to near the end. This is very 
hairy. Within this is a tubular rod (Fig. 22, B, and C, R) 
which is also slitted along its under surface. This extends 
beyond the sheath, Avhere it becomes an imperfect funnel 
(Fig. 22, /). A thin colorless membrane (Fig. 22, C, s, s) 
connects the slitted margins of the rod with those of the 
sheath. This, with the sheath, forms a sack which may be 
distended (Fig. 22, B) with nectar, as it has connection w r ith 
the tube of the mentum, though it is closed anteriorly. The 
tubular rod connects with the sack and with the tube of the 
mentum at the base of the ligula. 

While the bee is sipping liquid food, the tongue alternately 
pushes out and draws back for a short distance, which motion 
is effected by muscles at its base. This may be analogous to 
swallowing. When not in use the tongue is partially drawn 
into the mentum, and with the labial palpi and maxillae is 
bent under the head. 

When bees can get at nectar in quantity, they suck it 
through the extemporized tubes formed by approximating the 
maxillae and labial palpi. Deep down in flowers they only 
sip through the funnel and tubular rod. When a liquid is 
spread out thin, I think they lap or wipe it up, when it passes 
through the slit into the tubular rod, and thence to the 
pharynx. 

Connected with the tube in the mentum, and thus with 
the mouth, is a tube which leads to two pairs of glands 



Salivary Glands and Jaws. 

Fig. 23. 

K B 



87 





B— Part of 

glands show- 
ing Epithelial 
cells. 



A— Glands. 

g— Thoracic glands. 

d — Duct of thoracic glands. 

e — Ducts of cephalic glands. 

$m— Sub mentum. 

6— Opening to mouth. 

m — Mentum. 

a— Opening to paraglossse. 



(Fig. 23, A), one pair in the head, the other in the thorax. 
These glands are compound, and are lined with epithelium 
(Fig. 23 B). This apparatus was first discovered by Mr. 
Justin Spaulding, from whose article I get my diagram. 
From these glands comes the so-called salivary juice, which 



88 Jaws of Drone and Worker. 

aids in kneading wax, etc., as already described. It also 
probably aids in modifying the sugar while the nectar is in 
the bee's stomach, and, as I have shown elsewhere, in push- 
ing out the tongue. This is done by crowding the liquid into 
the closed tubular sheath (Fig. 22, C, S). 

The jaws (Fig. 24, c) are very strong, without the rudimen- 
tary tooth, while the cutting edge is semi-conical, so that when 
the jaws are closed they form an imperfect cone. Thus these 
are well formed to cut comb, knead wax, and perform their 
various functions. Their eyes (Fig. 5) are like those of the 
queen, while their wings, like those of the drones, attain the 
end of the body. These organs (Fig. 3) , as in all insects with 
rapid flight, are slim and strong, and, by their more or less 
rapid vibrations, give the variety of tone which characterizes 
their hum. Thus we have the rapid movements and high 
pitch of anger, and the slow motion and mellow note of con- 
tent and joy. 

Fig.- 24. 






a— Jaw of drone. 6— Jaw of queen. c — Jaw of worker. 

On the outside of the posterior tibia and basal tarsus is a 
cavity, made more deep by its rim of hairs, known as the pollen 
basket (Fig. 25, p). In these pollen baskets is compacted 
the pollen, which is gathered by the mouth organs, and carried 
back by the four anterior legs. Opposite the pollen baskets 
are regular rows of golden hairs (Fig. 26, e), which probably 
aid in storing and compacting the pollen balls. 

On the anterior legs of the workers, between the femur and 
tibia, is a curious notch (Fig. 27, C) covered by a spur (Fig. 27, 
B). For several years this has caused speculation among my 
students, and has attracted the attention of observing apiarists. 
Some have supposed that it aided bees in reaching deeper 
down into tubular flowers ; others, that it was used in scrap- 
ing off pollen, and still others, that it enabled bees to hold on 





Legs of Workers. 




Fig. 25. 




Fig. 26, 


Outside. 




Inside. 



89 





t— Tibia. 



Part of Posterior Leg of Worker, much magnified. 

ts— Joint of tarsi. 



/i—Rim of hairs. 
c— Claws. 



p— Pollen basket, 
e— Rows of hairs. 



when clustering. The first two suggestions may be correct, 
though other honey and pollen-gathering bees do not possess 
it. The latter function is performed by the claws at the end 
of the tarsi. 

The worker bees possess an organ of defense, which they 



Fig. 




Anterior Leg of Worker, magnified. 

are'quickfto use if occasion demands. This organ is straight, 
not curved as is the sting of the queen. The poison, which 
is emitted in stinging and which causes the severe pain, is an 



90 



Sting of the Bee. 



acid fluid, which is secreted by a double gland, and stored in 
a muscular sack (Fig. 28, C), which is about the size of a flax- 
seed. This sack is connected by a tube (Fig. 28, M) with the 
reservoir of the sting. The sting is a triple organ consisting 
of three sharp hollow spears, which are very smooth and of 
exquisite polish. If we magnify the most beautifully wrought 

Fig. 28. 




Sting with Lancets drawn one side, cross-section of Sting, and a 
Lancet, much magnified. 



o— Poison sack. 
A— Awl. 

0, U— Barbs. 

1, I— Hollows in lancets. 
T'— Groove in lancet. 



M— Tube from sack to reservoir. 8— Reservoir. 
B, B -.Lancets. E, E— Valves, 

o, o— Openings from hollow in H— Hollow in awl. 
lancets. t, t— Ridges in awl. 



steel instrument, it looks rough and unfinished; while the 
parts of the sting, however highly magnified, are smooth and 
perfect. The true relation of the three parts of the sting was 
accurately described by Mr. J. R. Bledsoe, in the American 



Sting of the Bee. 91 

Bee Journal, vol. 6, page 29. The action in stinging and the 
method of extruding the poison, are well described in a beau- 
tifully illustrated article by Mr. J. D. Hyatt, in Vol. I, No. 1, 
of American Quarterly Microscopical Journal. The larger of 
the three awls (Fig. 28, A) usually, though incorrectly, 
styled a sheath, has a large cylindrical reservoir at its base 
(Fig. 28, S) which is- entirely shut off from the hollow (Fig. 
28, H) in the more slender part of the awl, which latter serves 
no purpose whatever, except to give strength and lightness. 

The reservoir connects at its base with the poison sack, and 
below, by a slit, with the opening (Fig. 28, N) made by the 
approximation of the three awls. The other two awls (Fig. 
28, B, B), which we will call lancets, are also hollow (Fig. 
28. I, I). They are barbed (Fig. 28, U, U) much like a 
fish-hook, except that there are eight or ten barbs, instead of 
one. Five of the barbs are large and strong. These barbs 
catch hold and cause the extraction of the sting when the 
organ is used. Near the base of each lancet is a beautiful 
valvular organ (Fig. 28, E, E). The hollow inside the lancets 
(Fig. 28, I, J), unlike that of the awl, is useful. It opens 
anteriorly in front of the first six barbs (Fig. 28, o, o), as 
shown by Mr. Hyatt, and posteriorly just back of the valves 
into the central tube (Fig. 28, N), and through it into the 
reservoir (Fig. 28, S). The poison then can pass either 
through the hollow lancets (Fig. 28, I, I) or though the cen- 
tral tubes (Fig. 28, N), between the three spears. 

The lancets are held to the central piece by projections 
(Fig. 28, T, T) from the latter, which fit into corresponding 
grooves (Fig. 28, T') of the lancets. In the figure the lancets 
are moved one side to show the barbs and valves ; normally 
they are held close together, and thus form the tube (Fig. 
28, N)„ 

The parts of the sting are moved by muscles connecting 
the basis of the parts and extending from the parts to the 
large chitinous supports (Fig. 28, d). The fact that muscles 
connect the various parts, and the muscular character of the 
sack, explain how a sting may act, even after the bee is 
apparently lifeless, or, what is even more wonderful, after it 
has been extracted from the bee. The barbs hold one lancet 
as a fulcrum for the other, and so long as the muscles are 
excitable, so long is a thrust possible. Thus I have known 



92 Worker Larva, 

a bee, dead for hours, to sting. A wasp, dead more than a 
day, with the abdomen cut off, made a painful thrust, and 
stings extracted for several minutes could still bring tears by 
their entering the flesh. In stinging, the awl first pierces, 
then the lancets follow. As the lancets push in, the valves 
close the central tube, when the poison is driven through the 
lancets themselves and comes out by the openings near the 
barbs (Fig. 28, o, o). The drop of poison which we see on 
the sting when the bee is slightly irritated, as by jarring the 
hive on a cold day, is pushed through the central opening 
by the muscular contraction of the sack attendant upon the 
elevation of the abdomen and extrusion of the sting. The 
young microscopist will find it difficult to see the barbs, as it 
is not easy to turn the lancets so that they will show. Pa- 
tience and persistence, however, will bring success. 

The honey-stomach, or crop, in the workers (Fig. 11, o) is 
well developed, though no larger than that of drones. 
Whether it is more complex in structure or not, I cannot state. 

The workers hatch from impregnated eggs, which can only 
come from a queen that has met a drone, and are always laid in 
the small, horizontal cells (Fig. 31, c). These eggs are in no wise 
different, so far as we can see, from those which are laid in the 
drone or queen-cells. All are cylindrical and slightly curved 
(Fig. 29, a, b) and are fastened by one end to the bottom of 
the cell, and -a little to one side of the centre. As in other 
animals, the eggs from different queens vary preceptibly in 
size. As already shown, these are voluntarily fertilized by 
the queen as she extrudes them, preparatory to fastening them 
in the cells. These eggs, though small — one-sixteenth of an 
inch long, may be easily seen by holding the comb so that 
the light will shine into the cells. With experience they are 
detected almost at once, but I have often found it quite dif- 
ficult to make the novice see them, though very plainly visible 
to my experienced eye. 

The egg hatches in three days. The larva (Fig. 29, d, e, f), 
incorrectly called grub, maggot — and even caterpillar, by 
Hunter — is white, footless, and lies coiled up in the cell till 
near maturity. It is fed a whitish fluid, though this seems to 
be given grudgingly, as the larva never seems to have more 
than it wishes to eat, so it is fed quite frequently by the 
mature workers. It would seem that the workers fear an 



Development of tlie Bee. 
Fig. 29. 



93 




Development of the Bee. 

excessive development, which, as we have seen, is most mis- 
chievous and ruinous, and work to prevent the same by a 
mean and meager diet. The food is composed of pollen and 
honey. Certainly of pollen, for, as I have repeatedly proved, 
without pollen no brood will be reared. Probably some honey 
is incorporated, as sugar is an essential in the nutrition of all 
animals, and we could hardly account for the excessive 
amount of honey consumed, while breeding, by the extra 
amount consumed by the bees consequent upon the added 
exercise required in caring for the brood. M. Quinby, Doo- 
little, and others, say water is also an element of this food. 
But bees often breed very rapidly when they do not leave the 
hive at all, and so water, other than that contained in the 
honey, etc. , cannot be added. The time when bees seem to 
need water, and so repair to the rill and the pond, is during 
the heat of spring and summer, when they are most busy. 
May this not be quaffed for the most part to slake their own 
thirst? 

In eight days from the laying of the egg, the worker cell, 
like the queen cell, is capped over by the worker-bees. This 
cap is composed of pollen and wax, so it is darker, more 



94 Longevity and Function of Workers. 

porous, and more easily broken than the caps of the honey- 
cells; it is also more convex (Fig. 29, k). The larva, now 
full grown, having lapped up all the food placed before it, 
surrounds itself with a silken cocoon, so excessively thin that 
it requires a great number to appreciably reduce the size of 
the cells. These always remain in the cells after the bees 
escape, and give to old comb its dark color and great strength. 
Yet they are so thin that cells used even for a dozen years, 
seem to serve as well for brood as when first used. In three 
days the insect assumes the pupa state (Fig. 29, g). In all 
insects the ' spinning of the cocoon seems an exhaustive pro- 
cess, for so far as I have observed, and that is quite at length, 
this act is succeeded by a variable period of repose. The 
pupa is also called a nymph. By cutting open cells it is easy 
to determine just the date of forming the cocoon, and of 
changing to the pupa state. The pupa looks like the mature 
bee with all its appendages bound close about it, though the 
color is still whitish. 

In twenty-one days the bees emerge from the cells. The 
old writers were quite mistaken in thinking that the advent of 
these was an occasion of joy and excitement among the bees. 
All apiarists have noticed how utterly unmoved the bees are, 
as they push over and crowd by these new-comers in the most 
heedless and discourteous manner imaginable. Wildman tells 
of seeing the workers gathering pollen and honey the same 
day that they came forth from the cells. This idea is quickly 
disproved if we Italianize black bees. We know that for 
some days these young bees do not leave the hive at all, 
except in case of swarming, when bees even too young to fly 
will attempt to go with the crowd. These young bees, like 
young drones and queens, are much lighter colored when 
they first leave the cell. 

The worker-bees never attain a great age. Those reared in 
autumn may live for eight or nine months, and if in queenless 
stocks, where little labor is performed, even longer ; while 
those reared in spring will wear out in three months, and 
when most busy will often die in from thirty to forty-five days. 
None of these bees survive the year through, so there is a limit 
to the number which may exist in a colony. As a good queen 
will lay, when in her best estate, three thousand eggs daily, 
and as the workers live from one to three months, it might 



Function of Workers. 95 

seem that forty thousand was too small a figure for the num- 
ber of workers. Without doubt a greater number is possible. 
That it is rare is not surprising, when we remember the 
numerous accidents and vicissitudes that must ever attend the 
individuals of these populous communities. 

The function of the worker-bees is to do all the manual 
labor of the hives. They secrete the wax, which forms in 
small scales (Fig. 30, w) under the over-lapping rings under 
the abdomen. I have found these wax-scales on both old and 
young. According to Fritz Miiller, the admirable German 
observer, so long a traveler in South America, the bees of the 
genus Melipona secrete the wax on the back. 

The young bees build the comb, ventilate the hive, feed 
the larvae and cap the cells. The older bees — for, as readily 
seen in Italianizing, the young bees do not go forth for the 
first two weeks — gather the honey, collect the pollen, or bee- 
bread as it is generally called, bring in the propolis or bee- 
glue, which is used to close openings and as a cement, supply 
the hive with water (?), defend the hive from all improper 
intrusion, destroy drones when their day of grace is past, kill 
and arrange for replacing worthless queens, destroy inchoate 
queens, drones, or even workers, if circumstances demand it, 
and lead forth a portion of the bees when the conditions impel 
them to swarm. 

When there are no young bees, the old bees will act as 
house-keepers and nurses, which they otherwise refuse to do. 
The young bees, on the other hand, will not go forth to glean, 
even though there be no old bees to do this necessary part of 
bee-duties. An indirect function of all the bees is to supply 
animal heat, as the very life of the bees requires that the 
temperature inside the hive be maintained at a rate consider- 
ably above freezing. In the chemical processes attendant 
upon nutrition, much heat is generated, which, as first shown 
by Newport, may be considerably augmented at the pleasure 
of the bees, by forced respiration. The bees, by a rapid 
vibration of their wings, have the power to ventilate their 
hives and reduce the temperature when the weather is hot. 
Thus they are able to moderate the heat of summer, and tem- 
per the cold of winter. 



96 Swarming. 



CHAPTER III. 

SWARMING, OR NATURAL METHODS OF IN- 
CREASE. 

The natural method by which an increase of colonies among- 
bees is secured, is of great interest, and though it has been 
closely observed, and assiduously studied for a long period, and 
has given rise to theories as often absurd as sound, yet, even 
now, it is a fertile field for investigation, and will repay any 
who may come with the true spirit of inquiry, for there is 
much concerning it which is involved in mystery. Why do 
bees swarm at unseeming times? Why is the swarming 
spirit so excessive at times and so restrained at other seasons? 
These and other questions we are too apt to refer to erratic 
tendencies of the bees, when there is no question but that they 
follow naturally upon certain conditions, perhaps intricate and 
obscure, which it is the province of the investigator to dis- 
cover. Who shall be first to unfold the principles which 
govern these, as all other actions of the bees? 

In the spring or early summer, when the hive has become 
populous, and storing very active, the queen, as if conscious 
that a home could be overcrowded, and foreseeing such danger, 
commences to deposit drone-eggs in drone-cells, which the 
worker-bees, perhaps moved by like considerations, begin to 
construct, if they are not already in existence. In fact, drone 
comb is almost sure of construction at such times. No sooner 
is the drone brood well under way, than the large, awkward 
queen-cells are commenced, often to the number of ten or fif- 
teen, though there may be not more than three or four. The 
Cyprian and Syrian bees often start from fifty to one hundred 
queen-cells. In these, eggs are placed, and the rich royal jelly 
added, and soon, often before the cells are even capped — and 
very rarely before a cell is built, if the bees are crowded, the 
hives unshaded, the ventilation insufficient, or the honey-yield 
very bountiful — some bright day, usually about ten o'clock, 
after an unusual disquiet both inside and outside the hive, a 
large part of the worker-bees — being off duty for the day, 
and having previously loaded their honey-sacks — rush forth 
from the hive as if alarmed by the cry of fire, the queen among 



Swarming. 97 

the number, though she is by no means among the first, and 
frequently is quite late in her exit. It is often asserted that 
bees do no gathering on the day they swarm, previous to leav- 
ing the hive. This is not true. Mr. Poolittle thinks they are 
just as active as on other days. The assertion that bees always 
cluster on the outside preliminary to swarming, is not true. 
The crowded hive makes this common, though in a well 
managed apiary it is very infrequent. The bees, once started 
on their quest for a new home, after many uproai'ious gyrations 
about the old one, dart forth to alight upon some bush, limb, 
or fence, though in one case I knew the first swarm of 
bees to leave at once for parts unknowu, without even waiting 
to cluster. After thus meditating for the space of from one 
to three hours, upon a future course, they again take wing and 
leave for their new home, which they have probably already 
sought out. 

Some suppose the bees look up a home before leaving the 
hive, while others, claim that scouts are iu search of one while 
the bees are clustered. The fact that bees take a right-line to 
their new home, and fly too rapidly to look as they go, would 
argue that a home is preempted, at least, before the cluster is 
dissolved. The fact that the cluster remains sometimes for 
hours — even over night — and at other times for a brief period, 
would lead us to infer that the bees cluster while waiting for 
a new home to be found. Yet, why do bees sometimes alight 
after flying a long distance, as did a first swarm the past season 
upon our College grounds? Was then journey long, so that 
they must needs stop to rest, or were they flying at random, 
not knowing whither they were going? 

If for any reason the queen should fail to join the bees, and 
perhaps rarely when she is among them, they will, after having 
clustered, (they rarely fail to cluster) return to their old home. 
The youngest bees will remain in the old hive, to which those 
bees which are abroad in quest of stores will return. The 
presence of young bees on the ground immediately after a 
swarm has issued — those with flight too feeble to join the 
rovers — will always mark the previous home of the emigrants. 

Soon, in seven or eight days, often later, if Italians, the first 
queen will come forth from her cell, and in two or three days 
she will, or may, lead a new colony forth ; but before she does 
this, the peculiar note, known as the piping of the queen, 

7 



98 After- Swarms, 

may be heard. This piping sounds like "peep," "peep," is 
shrill and clear, and can be plainly heard by placing the ear to 
the hive, nor would it be mistaken. It is followed by a lower, 
hoarser note, made by a queen still within the cell. This 
piping is best heard by placing the ear to the hive in the 
evening or early morning. If heard, we may surely expect a 
swarm the day following, unless the weather is too unpleasant. 

Some have supposed that the cry of the liberated queen 
was that of hate, while that by the queen still imprisoned 
was either of enmity or fear. Never will an after-swarm 
leave, unless preceded by this peculiar note. 

At successive periods of one or two days, one, two, or even 
three more colonies may issue from the old home. Mr. 
Langstroth knew five after-swarms to issue, and others have 
reported eight and ten. These last swarms will all be heralded 
by the piping of the queen. They will be less particular as to 
the time of day when they issue, as they have been known to 
leave before sun-rise, and even after sun-set. The well-known 
apiarist, Mr. A. F. Moon, once knew a swarm to issue by 
moon-light. They will, as a rule, cluster farther from the 
hive. The after-swarms are accompanied by the queen, and in 
case swarming is delayed may be attended by a plurality of 
queens. Berlepsch and Langstroth each saw eight queens 
issue with a swarm, while others report even more. These 
virgin queens fly very rapidly, so the swarm will seem more 
active and definite in its course than will first swarms. 

The cutting short of swarming preparations before the 
second, third, or even the first swarm issues, is by no means 
a rare occurrence. This is effected by the bees destroying the 
queen-cells, and sometimes by a general extermination of the 
drones, and is generally to be explained by a cessation of the 
honey yield. It is commonly observed that while a moderate 
yield of honey is very provocative of swarming, a heavy 
flow seems frequently to absorb the entire attention of the 
bees, and so destroy the swarming impulse entirely. Cells 
thus destroyed are easily recognized, as they are torn open 
from the side and not cut back from the end. 

Swarming out at other times, especially in late winter and 
spring, is sometimes noticed by apiarists. This is due to 
famine, mice, or some other disturbing circumstance which 
makes the hive intolerable to the bees. 



Products of Bess. 99 



CHAPTER IV. 

PRODUCTS OF BEES ; THEIR ORIGIN AND 
FUNCTION. 

Among all insects, bees stand first in the variety of the 
useful products which they give us, and, next to the silk- 
moths, in the importance of these products. They seem the 
more remarkable and important, in that so few insects yield 
articles of commercial value. True, the cochineal insect, a 
species of bark-louse, gives us an important coloring material ; 
the lac insect, of the same family, gives us the important 
element of our best glue — shellac ; the blister-beetles afford an 
article prized by the physician, while we are indebted to one 
of the gall-flies for a valuable element of ink : but the honey- 
bee affords not only a delicious article of food, but also another 
article of no mean commercial rank, namely, wax. We will 
proceed to examine the various products which come from bees. 

HONEY. 

Of course the first product of bees, not only to attract atten- 
tion but also in importance, is honey. And what is honey? 
We can only say that it is a sweet substance gathered from 
flowers and other sources, by the bees. We cannot, therefore, 
give its chemical composition which would be as varied as the 
sources from which it comes. We cannot even call it a sugar, 
for it may be, and always is, composed of various sugars, and 
thus it is easy to understand why honey varies so much in 
richness, color, flavor, and effects on digestion. 

Nectar of flowers and honey are quite different. The 
former contains more water, is neutral instead of acid, and the 
sugars taken from the flowers are much modified while in the 
alimentary canal of the bee in transit from flower to comb. 
Nectar consists of sucrose or cane sugar from twelve to fifteen 
per cent. , and mellose, or uncrystallizable sugar ten per cent. 
The remainder is mostly water, though there is always a small 
amount of nitrogenous material. 

In honey the cane sugar is largely changed to a substance 
chemically like glucose : the mellose seems also somewhat modi- 
fied. There is a little mannite, probably the result of chemi- 



100 Character of Honey. 

cal change in the bee's stomach. The acid condition of honey is 
plainly recognizable by the taste, as all lovers of honey know. 

I have fed bees pure cane sugar, and when stored the late 
Prof. R. F. Kedzie found that much of this sugar was 
transformed in much the same way that the nectar is changed 
which is taken from the flowers. 

It is probable that the large compound racemose glands in * 
the head and thorax of the bees (Fig. 23, a) secrete an abun- 
dant ferment which hastens these transformations which the 
sugars undergo while in the stomach of the bee. Probably 
the stomach juices also aid in these changes. Much of the 
water escapes after the honey is stored. 

The method "of collecting honey has already been described. 
The principles of lapping and suction are both involved in the 
operation. 

When the stomach is full, the bee repairs. to the hive and* 
regurgitates its precious load, either giving it to the bees or 
storing it in the cells. Mr. Doolittle claims that the bees 
that gather give all their honey to the other bees, which latter 
store it in the cells. This honey remains for sometime un- 
capped that it may ripen, in which process the water is 
partially evaporated and the honey rendered thicker. If the 
honey remains uncapped, or is removed from the cells, it will 
generally granulate, if the temperature be reduced below 70°. 
Like many other substances, honey, if heated and sealed while 
hot, will not crystallize till it is unsealed. In case of granula- 
tion the sucrose and glucose crystallize in the mellose. Some 
honey, as that from the South and some from California, seems 
to remain liquid indefinitely. Some kinds of our own honey 
crystallize much more readily than others. The only sure test 
of the purity of honey is that of the polariscope. This is not 
practical except in the hands of the physicist. The most practi- 
cal test is that of granulation, though this is not wholly reliable. 
Granulated honey is almost certainly pure. Occasionally genu- 
ine honey refuses, even in a zero atmosphere, to crystallize. 

When there are no flowers, or when the flowers yield no 
sweets, the bees, ever desirous to add to their stores, frequently 
essay to rob other colonies, and often visit the refuse of cider 
mills, or suck up the oozing sweets of various plants or bark- 
lice, thus adding, may be, unwholesome food to their usually 
delicious and refined stores. It is a curious fact that the 



'Secretion of Wax. 101 

queen never lays her maximum number of eggs except when 
storing is going on. In fact, in the interims of honey-gather- 
ing, egg-laying not infrequently ceases altogether. The queen 
seems discreet, gauging the size of her family by the probable 
means of support. 

Again, in times of extraordinary yields of honey the storing 
is very rapid and the hive becomes so filled that the queen is 
unable to lay her full quota of eggs ; in fact, I have seen the 
brood very much reduced in this way, which, of course, greatly 
depletes the colony. This might be called ruinous prosperity. 

The natural use of the honey is to furnish the mature bees 
with food and, when mixed with pollen, to form the diet of the 
young bees. 

W r AX. 

The product of the bees second in importance, is wax. 
This is a solid, unctious substance, and is, as shown by its 
chemical composition, a fat-like material, though not, as some 
authors assert, the fat of bees. As already observed, this is 
a secretion formed in scales, the shape of an irregular pentagon 

Fig. 30. 




■Wax Scales in situ, magnified, 
w— Wax-scale. 

(Fig. 30, w), underneath the abdomen. These scales are light- 
colored, very thin and fragile, and are secreted by and molded 
upon the membrane towards the body from the wax-pockets. 
Neighbour speaks of the wax oozing through pores from the 
stomach. This is not the case, but, like the synovial fluid 
about our own joints, it is formed by the secreting membrane, 
and does not pass through holes, as water through a sieve. 
There are four of these wax-pockets on each side, and thus 
there may be eight wax-scales on a bee at one time. This wax 
can be secreted by the bees when fed on pure sugar, as shown 



102 Secretion of Wax. 

by Huber, whose experiment I have verified. I removed all 
honey and comb from my observing-hive, left the bees for 
twenty-four hours to digest all food which might be in their 
stomachs, and then fed pure sugar, which was better than 
honey, as Prof. R. F. Kedzie has shown by analysis that not 
only filtered honey, but even the nectar which he collected 
right from the flowers themselves, contains nitrogen. The 
bees commenced at once to build comb, and continued for 
several days, so long as I kept them confined. This is as we 
should suppose ; sugar contains hydrogen and oxygen in pro- 
portion to form water, while the third element, carbon, is in 
the same or about the same proportion as the oxygen. Now, 
the fats usually contain little oxygen and a good deal of car- 
bon and hydrogen. Thus the sugar by losing some of its 
oxygen would contain the requisite elements for fat. It was 
found true in the days of slavery in the South that the negroes 
of Louisiana, during the gathering of the cane, would become 
very fat. They ate much sugar ; they gained much fat. Now, 
wax is a fat-like substance, not that it is the animal fat of bees, 
as often asserted — in fact it contains much less hydrogen, as 
will be seen by the following formula from Hess : 

Oxygen .". 7.50 

Carbon 79.30 

Hydrogen 13.20 

— but it is a special secretion for a special purpose, and from 
its composition we should conclude that it might be secreted 
from a purely saccharine diet, and experiment confirms the con- 
clusion. It has been found that bees require about twenty 
pounds of honey to secrete one of wax. The experiments of 
Mr. P. L. Viallon show this estimate of Huber to be too 
great. My own experiments would sustain Huber's statement. 
In these experiments the bees are confined, and ^o the conclu- 
sions are to be received with caution. We cannot know how 
much the results are changed by the abnormal condition in 
which the bees are placed. 

That nitrogenous food is necessary, as claimed by Langstroth 
and Neighbour, is not true. Yet, in the active season, when 
muscular exertion is great, nitrogenous food must be impera- 
tively necessary to supply the waste and give tone to the 
body. Secretion of wax demands a healthy condition of the 
bee, and so indirectly requires some nitrogenous food. 



Wax and Comb. 103 

It is asserted that to secrete wax, bees need to hang in corn- 
pact clusters or festoons, in absolute repose. Such quiet would 
certainly seem conducive to most active secretion. The same 
food could not* go to form wax, and at the same time supply 
the waste of tissue which ever, follows upon muscular activity. 
The cow, put to hard toil, could not give so much milk. But 
I find, upon examination, that the bees, even the most aged, 
while gathering in the honey season, yield up the wax-scales 
the same as those within the hive. During the active storing 
of the past season, especially when comb-building was in rapid 
progress, I found that nearly every bee taken from the flowers 
contained the wax-scales of varying sizes in the wax-pockets. 
By the activity of the bees, these are not infrequently loosened 
from their position and fall to the bottom of the hive. 

It is probable that wax secretion is not forced upon the bees, 
but only takes place as required. So the bees, unless wax is 
demanded, may perform other duties. Whether this secretion 
is a matter of the bee's will, or 'whether it is excited by the 
surrounding conditions without any thought, are questions yet 
to be settled. 

These wax-scales are loosened by the claws and carried to 
the mouth by the feet, where they are mixed with saliva, and 
after the proper kneading by the jaws are fashioned into that 
wonderful and exquisite structure, the comb. In this trans- 
formation to comb, the wax may become much darker in color. 
It is almost sure to do this if the new comb is formed adjacent 
to old, dark colored comb. 

Honey-comb is wonderfully delicate, the wall of a new cell 
being only about 1-180 of an inch in thickness, and so formed 
as to combine the greatest strength with the least expense of 
material and room. It has been a subject of admiration since 
the earliest time. That the form is a matter of necessity, as 
some claim, the result of pressure and not of bee-skill, is not 
true. The hexagonal form is assumed at the very start of the 
cells, when there can be no pressure. The wasp builds the 
same form, though unaided. The assertion that the cells, even 
the drone and worker-cells, are absolutely uniform and perfect, 
is also untrue, as a little inspection will convince any one. 
The late Prof. Wyrnan proved that an exact hexagonal cell 
does not exist. He showed that the size varies, so that in a 
distance of ten Avorker-cells there may be a variation of one 



104 



Honey-Comb ( 'eUs 



diameter, and this in natural, not distorted cells. This varia- 
tion of one-fifth of an inch in ten cells is extreme, but a varia- 
tion of one-tenth of an inch is common. The sides, as also 
the angles, are not constant. The rhombic faces forming the 
bases of the cells also vary. 

The bees change from worker (Fig. 31, c) to drone-cells 
(Fig. 31, a), which are one-fifth larger, and vice verm, not. by 
any system (Fig 31, b), but simply by enlarging or contracting. 
It usually takes about four rows to complete the transformation, 
though the number of deformed cells varies from two to eight. 

Fig. 31. 




Rhumbs, Pyramidal Bases, 
and Cross-sect ions of Cells 
illustrated. 



a— Drone-cells. 
h— Deformed cells. 



Honey-Comb. 



c— Worker-celte. 
d d— Queen-cells. 



The structure of each cell is quite complex, yet full of 
interest. The base is a triangular pyramid (Fig. 31, e) whose 
three faces are rhombs, and whose apex forms the very centre 



Comb Building. 105 

of the floor of the cell. From the six free or non-adjacent 
edges of the three rhombs extend the lateral walls or faces of 
the cell. The apex of this basal pyramid is a point where 
the contiguous faces of three cells on the opposite side meet, 
and form the angles of the bases of three cells on the opposite 
side of the comb. Thus the base of each cell forms one-third 
of the base of each of three opposite cells. One side thus 
braces the other and adds much to the strength of the comb. 
Each cell, then, is in the form of a hexagonal prism, terminating 
in a flattened triangular pyramid. 

The bees usually btiild several combs at once, and carry 
forward several cells on each side of each -comb, constantly 
adding to the number, by additions to the edge. Huber first 
observed the process of comb-building, noticing the bees 
abstract the wax-scales, carry them to the mouth, add the 
frothy saliva, and then knead and draw out the yellow ribbons 
which were fastened to the top of the hive, or added to the 
comb already commenced. 

The diameter of the worker-cells (Fig. 31, c) averages little 
more than one-fifth of an inch — Reaumur says two and three- 
fifths lines, or twelfths of an inch, while the drone-cells (Fig. 
31, a) are a little more than one-fourth of an inch, or, accord- 
ing to Reaumur, three and one-third lines. But this distin- 
guished author was quite wrong when he said: "These are 
the invariable dimensions of all cells that ever were or ever 
will be made." The depth of the worker-cells is a little less 
than half an inch ; the drone-cells are slightly* extended so as 
to be a little more than half an inch deep. These cells are 
often drawn out so as to be an inch long, when used solely as 
honey receptacles. The capping of the brood-cells is dark, 
porous, and convex, while that of the honey-cells is white and 
concave. This capping of honey-cells is made thicker by 
black bees than by the other races, and so their comb honey 
is more beautiful. 

The character of the cells, as to size, that is, whether they 
are drone or worker, seems to be determined by the relative 
abundance of bees and honey. If the bees are abundant 
and honey needed, or if there is no queen to lay eggs, drone- 
comb (Fig. 31, a) is invariably built, while if there are few 
bees, and of course little honey needed, then worker-comb 
(Fig. 31, c) is almost as invariably formed. 



106 Fossil Honey-CoDib Coral. . 

All comb when first formed is clear and translucent. The 
fact that it is often dark and opaque implies that it has been 
long used as brood-comb, and the opacity is due to the innu- 
merable thin cocoons which line the cells. These may be separ- 
ated by dissolving the wax ; which may be clone by putting it 
in boiling alcohol. Such comb need not be discarded, for if 
composed of worker-cells it is still very valuable for breeding 
purposes, and should not be destroyed till the cells are too 
small for longer service, which will not occur till after many 
years of use. The function, then, of the wax, is to make 
comb and caps for the honey-cells, and,*combined with pollen, 
to form queen-cells (Fig. 31, d) and caps for the brood-cells. 

A very common fossil found in many parts of the Eastern 
and Northern United States, is, from its appearance, often 
called petrified honey-comb. We have many such specimens 
in our museum. In some cases the cells are hardly larger 
than a pin-head ; in others a quarter of an inch in diameter. 

Fig. 32. 




Honey-stone Coral. 

These (Figs. 32, 33) are not fossil honey-comb as many are led 
to believe, though the resemblance is so striking that no 
wonder the public generally are deceived. These specimens 
are fossil coral, which the paleontologist places in the genus 
Favosites ; favosus being a common species in our State. 
They are very abundant in the lime rock in northern Michi- 
gan, and are very properly denominated honey-stone coral. 



Pollen or Bee-Bread. 107 

The animals of which these were once . the skeletons, so to 
speak, are not insects at all, though often called so by men of 
considerable information. 

The species of the genus Favosites first appeared in the 
Upper Silurian rocks, culminated in the Devonian, and disap- 
peared in the early Carboniferous. No insects appeared till 
the Devonian age, and no Hymenoptera — bees, wasps, etc. — 
till after the Carboniferous. So the old-time Favosites reared 
its limestone columns and helped to build islands and conti- 
nents untold ages — millions upon millions of years — before 
any flower bloomed, or any bee sipped the precious nectar. 
In some specimens of this honey-stone coral (Fig. 33), there 

Fig. 33. 







V 







Honey-stone Coral. 

are to be seen banks of cells, much resembling the paper cells 
of some of our wasps. This might be called wasp-stone coral, 
except that both styles were wrought by the self-same animals. 

POLLEN, OR BEE-BREAD. 

An ancient Greek author states that in Hymettus the bees 
tied little pebbles to their legs to hold them down. This 



108 Pollen and Propolis. 

fanciful conjecture probably arose from seeing the pollen balls 
on the bees' legs. 

Even such scientists as Reaumur, Bonnet, Swammerdani, 
and many apiarists of the last century, thought they saw in 
these pollen-balls the source of wax. But Huber, John 
Hunter, Duchet, Wildman, and others, noticed the presence 
and function of the wax-scales already described, and were 
aware that the pollen served a different purpose. 

This substance, like nectar, is not secreted nor manufactured 
by the bees, only collected. The bees usually obtain it from 
the stamens of flowers ; but if they gain access to flour 
when there is no bloom, they will take this in lieu of pollen, 
in which case the former term used above becomes a misnomer, 
though usually the bee-bread consists almost wholly of pollen. 

As already intimated, the pollen is conveyed in the pollen- 
baskets (Fig. 25, p) of the posterior legs, to which it is con- 
veyed by the other legs, and compressed into little oval 
masses. The motions in this conveyance are exceedingly 
rapid. The bees not infrequently come to the hives not only 
with replete pollen-baskets but with their whole under surface 
thoroughly dusted. Dissection will also show that the same 
bee may have her sucking stomach distended with honey. 
Thus the bees make the most of their opportunities. It is a 
curious fact, noticed even by Aristotle, that the bees, during 
any trip, almost always gather only a single kind of pollen, or 
only gather from one species of bloom. Hence, while differ- 
ent bees may have 'different colors of pollen, the pellets of 
bee-bread on any single bee will be uniform in color through- 
out. It is possible that the material is more easily collected 
and compacted when homogeneous. It seems more probable 
that they prefer the pollen of certain plants, and work on such 
species so long as they yield the desired food. From this fact 
we see why bees cause no intercrossing of species of plants ; 
they only intermix the pollen of different plants of the same 
species. 

The pollen is usually deposited in the small or worker cells, 
and is unloaded by a scraping motion of the posterior legs, 
the pollen baskets being first lowered into the cells. The bee 
thus freed, leaves the wheat-like masses to be packed by other 
bees. The cells, which may or may not have the same color 
of pollen throughout, are never filled quite to the top, and not 



Function of Propolis. 109' 

infrequently the same cell may contain both pollen and honey. 
Such a condition is easily ascertained by holding the comb 
between the eye and the sun. If there is no pollen it will be 
wholly translucent ; otherwise there will be opaque patches. 
A little experience will make this determination easy, even if 
the comb is old. It is often stated that queenless colonies 
gather no pollen, but this is not true, though they gather less 
than they otherwise would. It is probable that pollen, at 
least when honey is added, contains all the essential elements 
of animal food. It certainly contains the very important 
principle which is not found in honey — nitrogenous material. 

The function of bee-bread is to help furnish the brood with 
proper food. In fact, brood-rearing would be impossible 
without it. And though it is certainly not essential to the 
nourishment of the bees when in repose, it still may be so, 
and unquestionably is, in time of active labor. This point is 
clearly proved from the fact that pollen husks are always 
found in the intestines of bees. 

PROPOLIS. 

This substance, also called bee-glue, is collected as the bees 
collect pollen, and not made nor secreted. It is the product 
of various resinous buds, and may be seen to glisten on the 
opening buds of the hickory and horse-chestnut, where it 
frequently serves the entomologist by capturing small insects. 
From such sources, from the oozing gum of various trees,, 
from varnished furniture, and from old propolis about unused 
hives that have previously seen service, do the bees secure 
their glue. Probably the gathering of bees about coffins to 
collect their glue from the varnish, led to the custom of rapping 
on the hives to inform the bees, in case of a death in the 
family, that they might join as mourners. This custom still 
prevails, as I understand, in some parts of the South. Pro- 
polis has great adhesive force, and though soft and pliable 
when warm becomes very hard and unyielding when cold. 

The use of bee glue is to cement the combs to their sup- 
ports, to fill up all rough places inside the hive, to seal up 
all crevices except the place of exit, which they often con- 
tract, and even to cover any foreign substance that cannot 
be removed. Intruding snails have thus been imprisoned in- 
side the hive. Reaumur found a snail thus encased ;- Maraldi. 



110 Bibliography. 

a slug similarly entombed ; while I have myself observed a 
bombus, which had been stripped by the bees of wings, hair, 
etc. , in their vain attempts at removal, also encased in this 
unique style of a sarcophagus, fashioned by the bees. Alcohol, 
ether, and chloroform are all ready solvents of bee glue, and 
Avill quickly remove it from the hands, clothes, etc. 

BIBLIOGRAPHY. 

For those who wish to pursue these interesting subjects 
more at length, I would recommend the following authors as 
specially desirable : Kirby and Spence, Introduction to En- 
tomology ; Duncan's Transformations of Insects ; Packard's 
Guide to the Study of Insects (American) ; F. Huber's New 
Observations on the Natural History of Bees ; Bevan on the 
Honey bee ; Langstroth on the Honey Bee (American) ; 
Neighbour 011 The Apiary ; and the other books already re- 
ferred to on page eleven. 

I have often been asked to recommend such treatises, and I 
heartily commend all of the above. The first and fourth are 
now out of print, but can be had by leaving orders at second- 
hand book-stores. 



PABT SEOOIsTID. 



THE APIARY, 



ITS CARE AND MANAGEMENT. 



Motto: — "Keep all Colonies Strong!" 



INTRODUCTION TO PART II. 



STARTING AN APIARY. 

In apiculture, as in all other pursuits, it is all-important to 
make a good beginning. This demands preparation on the 
part of the apiarist, the procuring of bees, and location of the 
apiary. 

PREPARATION. 

Before starting in the business, the prospective bee-keeper 
should inform himself in the art. 

READ A GOOD MANUAL. 

To do this, he should procure some good manual, and 
thoroughly study, especially that portion which treats of the 
practical part of the business. If accustomed to read, think 
and study, he should carefully read the whole work, but, 
otherwise, he will avoid confusion by only studying the meth- 
ods of practice, leaving the principles and science to strengthen, 
and be strengthened by, his experience. Unless a student, 
he had better not take a journal till he begins the actual 
work, as so much unclassified information, without any expe- 
rience to correct, arrange, and select, will but mystify. For 
the same reason, he may well be content with reading a single 
work, till experience, and a thorough study of this one, make 
him more able to discriminate ; and the same reasoning will 
preclude his taking more than one bee-periodical, until he has 
had at least a year's actual experience. 

VISIT SOME APIARIST. 

In this work of self-preparation, he will find great aid in 
visiting the nearest successful and intelligent apiarist. If 
successful, such a one will have a reputation ; if intelligent, 
he will take the journals, and will show by his conversation that 
he knows the methods and views of his brother apiarists, and, 



114 Rules for the Beginner. 

above all, he will not think he knows it all, and that his is the 
only way to success. Learn all you can of such a one, but 
always let your own judgment and common sense sit as 
umpire, that you may make no • plans or decisions that your 
judgment does not fully sustain. 

TAKE A COLLEGE COURSE. 

It will be most wise to take a course in some College, if age 
makes this practicable, where apiculture is thoroughly dis- 
cussed. Here you will not only get the best training in your 
chosen business, as you will study, see and handle, and thus 
will have the very best aids to decide as to methods, system 
and apparatus, but you will also receive that general culture, 
which will greatly enhance life's pleasures and usefulness, and 
which ever proves the best capital in any vocation. 

DECIDE ON A PLAN. 

After such a course as suggested above, it will be easy to 
decide as to location, hives, style of honey to raise, and gen- 
eral system of management. But here, as in all the arts, all 
our work should be preceded by a well-digested plan of 
operations. As with the farmer and the gardener, only he 
who works to a plan can hope for the best success. Of course, 
such plans will vary as we grow in wisdom and experience. 
A good maxim to govern all plans is, "go slow." A good 
rule, which will insure the above, "Pay as you go." Make 
the apiary pay for all improvements in advance. Demand 
that each year's credits exceed its debits ; and that you may 
surely accomplish this, keep an accurate account of all your 
receipts and expenses. This will be a great aid in arranging 
the plans for each successive year's operations. 

Above all, avoid hobbies, and be slow to adopt sweeping 
changes. "Prove all things, and hold fast that which is 
good." 

HOW TO PROCURE FIRST COLONIES. 

To procure colonies from which to form an apiary, it is 
always best to get them near at hand. We thus avoid the 
shock of transportation, can see the bees before we purchase, 
and in case there is any seeming mistake can easily gain a 
personal explanation and secure a speedy adjustment of any 
real wrong. 



Rules for Purchasing. 115 

KIND OF BEES TO PURCHASE. 

At the same price always take Italians, as certainly they 
are best for the beginner. If black bees can be secured for 
three, or even for two dollars less per colony, by all means 
take them, as they can be Italianized at a profit for the differ- 
ence in cost,. and, in the operation, the young apiarist will 
gain valuable experience. 

Our motto will demand that we only purchase strong col- 
onies. If, as recommended, the purchaser sees the colonies 
before the bargain is closed, it will be easy to know that the 
colonies are strong. If the bees, as they come rushing out, 
remind you of Vesuvius at her best, or bring to mind the 
gush and rush at the nozzle of the fireman's hose, then buy. 
In the hives of such colonies, all combs will be covered with 
bees, and in the honey season, brood will be abundant. It is 
always wisest to begin with few bees. He will generally suc- 
ceed best who commences with not more than four or five col- 
onies. 

IN WHAT KIND OF HIVES. 

As plans are already made, of course it is settled as to the 
style of hive to be used. If bees can be procured in such 
hives, they will be worth just as much more than though in 
any other hive, as it costs to make the hive and transfer the 
bees. This will be certainly as much as two or three dollars. 
No apiarist will tolerate, unless for experiment, two styles of hives 
in his apiary. Therefore, unless you find bees in such hives 
as you are to use, it will be best to buy them in box hives and 
transfer (see Chapter VII.) to your own hives, as bees in 
box hives can always be bought at reduced rates. In case 
the person from whom you purchase will take the hives back 
at a fair rate, after you have transferred the bees to your own 
hives, then purchase in any style of movable comb hive, as it 
is easier to transfer from a movable comb hive, than from a 
box hive. 

WHEN TO PURCHASE. 

It is safe to purchase any time in the summer. In April 
or May (of course you only purchase strong stocks) if in the 
latitude of New York or Chicago — it will be earlier further 
south — you can afford to pay more, as you will secure the in- 



116 Location of the Apiary. 

crease both of honey and bees. If you desire to purchase in 
autumn, that you may gain by the experience of wintering, 
either demand that the one of whom you purchase insure the 
safe wintering of the bees, or else that he reduce the selling 
price, at least one-third, from his rates the next April. 
Otherwise, the novice had better wait and purchase in the 
spring. If you are to transfer at once, it is almost imperative 
that you buy in spring, as it is vexatious, especially for the 
novice, to transfer when the hives are crowded with brood and 
honey. 

HOW MUCH TO PAY. 

Of course the market, which will ever be governed by sup- 
ply and demand, must guide you. But to aid you, I will 
append what at present would be a reasonable schedule of 
spring prices almost anywhere in the United States : For box 
hives, crowded with black bees — Italians would rarely be found 
in such hives — five dollars per colony is a fair price. 
For black bees in hives such as you desire to use, eight dollars 
would be reasonable. For pure Italians in such hives, ten 
dollars is not too much. 

If the person of whom you purchase will take back the 
movable hives after you transfer the bees, you can afford to 
pay five dollars for black bees, and seven dollars for pure 
Italians. If you purchase in the fall, require 33J per cent, 
discount on these rates. 

WHERE TO LOCATE. 

If apiculture is an avocation, then your location will be 
fixed by your principal business or profession. And here I 
may state that, if we may judge from reports which come 
from nearly every section of the United States, from Maine to 
Texas, and from Florida to Oregon, you can hardly go amiss 
anywhere in our goodly land. 

If you are to engage as a specialist, then you can select 
first with reference to society and climate, after which it will 
be well to secure a succession of natural honey-plants (Chap. 
XVII.), by virtue of your locality. It will also be well to 
look for reasonable prospects of a good home market, as good 
home markets are, and must ever be, the most desirable. Itwill 
be desirable, too, that your neighborhood is not overstocked 



Where to Locate. ' 117 

with bees. It is a well-established fact, that apiarists with few 
colonies receive relatively larger profits than those with large 
apiaries. While this may be owing in part to better care, 
much doubtless depends on the fact that there is not an undue 
proportion of bees to the number of honey-plants, and conse- 
quent secretion of nectar. To have the undisputed monopoly 
of an area reaching at least four miles in every direction from 
your apiary, is unquestionably a great advantage. 

If you desire to begin two kinds of business, so that your 
dangers from possible misfortune may be lessened, then a 
small farm — especially a fruit farm — in some locality where 
fruit-raising is successfully practiced, will be very desirable. 
You thus add others of the luxuries of life to the products 
of your business, and at the same time may create additional 
pasturage for your bees by simply attending to your other 
business. In this case, your location becomes a more complex 
matter, and will demand still greater thought and attention. 
Some of Michigan's most successful* apiarists are also noted as 
successful pomologists. 

For position and arrangement of apiary see Chapter VI. 

- • 

* 



118 Box Hives. 

CHAPTER V. 

HIVES AND SECTIONS. 

An early choice among the innumerable hives is of course 
demanded ; and here let me state with emphasis, that none of the 
standard hives are now covered by patents, so let no one buy rights. 
Success by the skillful apiarist with almost any hive is possible. 
Yet, without question, some hives are far superior to others, 
and for certain uses, and with certain persons, some hives are 
far preferable to others, though all may be meritorious. As a 
change in hives, after one is once engaged in apiculture, involves 
much time, labor, and expense, this becomes an important 
question, and one worthy of earnest consideration by the pros- 
pective apiarist. I shall give it a first place, and a thorough 
consideration, in this discussion of practical apiculture. 

BOX-HIVES. 

I feel free to say that no person who reads* thinks, and studies 
— and success in apiculture can be promised to no other — will 
ever be content to use the old box-hives. In fact, thought and 
intelligence, which imply an eagerness to investigate, are essen- 
tial elements in the apiarist's character, and to such a one a box- 
hive would be valued just in proportion to the amount of 
kindling-wood it contained. I shall entirely ignore box-hives 
in the following discussions, for I believe no sensible, intelligent 
apiarists, such as read books, will tolerate them, and that, sup- 
posing they would, it would be an expensive mistake which I 
have no right to encourage, in fact am bound to discourage, 
not only for the benefit of individuals but also for the art itself. 

To be sure of success, the apiarist must be able to inspect 
the whole interior of the hive at his pleasure, must be able to 
exchange combs from one hive to another, and to regulate the 
movements of the bees — by destroying queen-cells, by giving 
or withholding drone-comb, by extracting the honey, by intro- 
ducing queens, and by many other manipulations to be ex- 
plained, which are only practicable with a movable comb hive. 

MOVABLE COMB HIVES. 

There are, at present, two types of the movable comb hive in 
use among us, each of which is unquestionably valuable, as each 



Movable Comb Hives. 



119 



has advocates among our most intelligent, successful, and exten- 
sive apiarists. Each, too, has been superseded by the other, to 
the satisfaction of the person making the change. The kind most 
used consists of a box, in which hang the frames which hold the 
combs. The adjacent frames are so far separated that the combs, 
which just fill them, shall be the proper distance apart. In the 
other kind, the frames are wider than the comb, and when in 
position are close together, and of themselves form two sides of 
a box. When in use, these frames are surrounded by a second 
box, without a bottom, which, with them, rests on a bottom 
board. Each of these' kinds is represented by various forms, sizes, 
etc. , where the details are varied to suit the apiarist's notion. 
Yet, I believe that all hives in present use, worthy of recommen- 
dation, fall within one or the other of the above named types. 

EARLY FRAME' HIVES. 

In 1843, Mr. Agustus Munn, of England, invented a mov- 
able comb hive (Fig. 34), which I need hardly say was not the 

Fig. 34. 




The Munn Hive. 



120 



Early Movable Comb Hives. 



Langstroth hive nor a practical one. In 1851 this hive (Fig. 35) 
was improved (?). Well does Neighbour say in his valuable 
hand-book, "This invention was of no avail to apiarists." 



Fig. 35. 




Munn's Improved Hive. 

M. DeBeauvoys, of France, in 1847, and Schmidt, of Ger- 
many, in 1851, invented movable-comb hives. The frames 
were tight-fitting, and, of course, not practical. Dzierzon 
adopted the bar hive in 1838. In this hive each comb had to 
be cut loose as it was removed. 

THE LANGSTROTH HIVE. 

In 1851, our own Langstroth, without any knowledge of 
what foreign apiarian inventors' had done, save what he could 
find in Huber, and edition 1838 of Bevan, invented the hive 
(Fig. 36) now in common use among the advanced apiarists 
of America. It is this hive, the greatest apiarian invention 
ever made, that has placed American apiculture in advance of 
that of all other countries. What practical bee-keeper of 
America could agree with H. Hamet, edition 1861, p. 166, 
who, in speaking of the DeBeauvoys' hive, says that the im- 



Langstroth Hive. 121 

proved hives were without value except to the amateur, and 
inferior for practical purposes? Our apiarists not native to 
our shores, like the late Adam Grimm and Mr. Charles Da- 
dant, always conceded that Mr. Langstroth was the inventor 
of this hive, and always proclaimed its usefulness. Well did 
the late Mr. S. Wagner, the honest, fearless, scholarly, and 
truth-loving editor of the early volumes of the American Bee 
Journal, himself of German origin, says : ' ' When Mr. Lang- 
stroth took up this subject, he well knew what Huber had 
done, and saw wherein he had failed — failing, possibly, only 
because he aimed at nothing more than constructing an ob- 
serving hive suitable for his purposes. Mr. Langstroth's object 
was other and higher. He aimed at making frames movable, 
interchangeable, and practically serviceable in bee culture." 
And how true what follows : ' ' Nobody before Mr. Langstroth 
ever succeeded in devising a mode of making and using a 
movable frame that was of any practical value in bee culture." 
No man in the world, beside Mr. Langstroth, was so conver- 
sant with this whole subject as was Mr. Wagner. His extensive 
library and thorough knowledge made him a competent judge. 

Mr. Langstroth, though he knew of no previous invention 
of frames contained in a case, when he made his invention, in 
1851, does not profess to have been the first to have invented 
them. Every page of his book shows his transparent honesty, 
and his desire to give all due credit to other writers and invent- 
ors. He does claim, and very justly, to have invented the first 
practical frame hive, the one described in his patent, applied 
for in January, 1851, and in all three editions of his book. 

For this great invention, as well as his able researches in 
apiculture, as given in his invaluable book, ' ' The Honey- 
Bee," he has conferred a benefit upon our art which cannot be 
over-estimated, and for which we, as apiarists, cannot be too 
grateful. It was his book — one of my old teachers, for which 
I have no word of chiding — that led me to some of the most 
delightful investigations of my life. It was his invention — 
the Langstroth hive — that enabled me to make those investi- 
gations. For one, I shall always revere the name of Lang- 
stroth, as a great leader in scientific apiculture, both in 
America and throughout the world. His name must ever 
stand beside those of Dzierzon and the elder Huber. Surely 
this hive, which left the hands of the great master in so perfect 



122 



Body of a Hive. 



a form that even the detail? remain unchanged by many of 
our first bee-keepers, should ever bear his name. Thus, 
though I prefer and use the size of frame first used, I believe, 
by Mr. Gallup, still I use the Langstroth hive. 

CHARACTER OF THE HIVE. 

The main feature of the hive should be simplicity, which 
would exclude doors, drawers, and traps of all kinds. The 
body should be made of good pine or white-wood lumber, one 
inch thick, thoroughly seasoned, and planed on both sides. 
It should be simply a plain box (Fig. 41, c), without top or 
bottom, and of a size and form to suit the apiarist. 

To prevent warping, the heart surface of the board should 
be on the outside. In case a single board forms the top of the 
hive, this suggestion is even more valuable. 

Fig. 36. 




At present our leading apiarists prefer a large hive. The 
hive preferred by Mr. Heddon — an eight-frame Langstroth, 
(Fig. 36) — contains about 2,000 cubic inches. While the 



Fig. 37. 




Body of the Hive. 



123 



ten-frame Langstroth (Fig. 37), the one recommended by Mr. 
A. I. Root, contains more than 2,500 cubic inches. Were I 
to use a two-story hive (Fig. 41), I should prefer about 2,500 
cubic inches. If the one-and-one-half story is used (Fig. 38), 
then I prefer upwards of 3,400 cubic inches. This is the size 
preferred by Mr. Doolittle. Messrs. Hetherington, L. C. 
Root and Nellis use a hive larger still. 

If the hive is to be a two-story one — that is, one hive above 
a similar hive below (Fig. 41) — I prefer that it should be 
eighteen inches long, twelve inches wide, and twelve inches 
deep, inside measure. If simply small frames or sections are 
to^be used above (Fig. 38), I would have the hive at least 

Fig. 38. 




Story and One-Half Hive. 



a — Body. 
d — Frame. 



b, c — Shoulders. 
e— Tin. 



two feet long. A three-fourths inch rabbet should be cut 
from the top of the sides or ends, as the apiarist prefers, on the 
inside (Fig. 41). The rabbet may equal a little more than 
one-half the thickness of the board. My late hives are with- 
out this rabbet (Fig. 38). These are simpler, and with many 
others I think I prefer them. Then the hive is only eleven 



124 Bevel- Gauge, 

and one-fourth inches deep, instead of twelve. Heavy tin 
strips (Fig. 41), three-fourths of an inch wide, should be 
tacked to the side below the rabbet, so as to reach one-fourth 
of an inch above the shoulder. In case there is no rabbet 
(Fig. 38, e), these tins are nailed to the side of the hive so as 
to project one-fourth inch above the side. These are to bear 
the frames, and are convenient as they prevent the frames 
from becoming glued to the hive. We are thus able to loosen 
the frames without jarring the bees. I would not have hives 
without such tins, though some apiarists, among whom is Mr. 
James Heddon, of this State, whose rank as a successful 
apiarist is very high, do not like them. The objection to 
them is cost, and the liability of the frames to move when the 
hive is moved. But with their use we are not compelled to 
pry the frames loose, and are -not so likely to irritate the bees 
while making an examination of the contents of the hive, 
which arguments are conclusive with me. 

Any one who is not a skilled mechanic, especially if he has 
not a buzz-saw, had better join the sides of his hives after the 
style of making common dry-goods boxes. In this case, the 
sides not rabbeted should project by (Fig. 36), else the corners 
will have to be stopped up where they were rabbeted. In case 
we do not rabbet, either the ends or sides may project by. 
In such cases many rabbet the corners so as to make a stronger 
joint. 

The mechanic may prefer to bevel the ends of the boards, 
and unite them by a mitre-joint (Fig. 41). This looks a little 
better, otherwise is not superior to the other method. It is 
difficult to form accurate joints, and. as everything about the hive 
should be accurate and uniform, this style is not to be 
recommended to the general apiarist. To mitre with a hand- 
saw, unless one is very skillful, requires a perfect mitre- 
box, and, even then, much care is required to secure 
perfect joints. With a buzz-saw this is easier. We have 
only to make a carrier as follows: Take two boards (Fig. 39, 
a, b), each one foot in length, and dove-tail them together, as 
though with two others you meant to make a square box. Be 
sure that they form a perfect right angle. Then bevel the 
ends opposite the angle, and unite these with a third board 
(Fig. 39, c), firmly nailed to the others.' We thus have a 
triangular pyramid. Through one of the shorter faces make 



Bottom Board of Hive. 



125 



longitudinal slits (Fig. 39, d), so that this can be bolted firmly 
to the saw-table. In use, the longer face will reach the saw, 
and from thence will slant up and back. Along the back edge 
of this a narrow board (Fig. 39, e) should be nailed, which 
will project an inch above it. This will keep the board to be 
beveled in line with the carrier, and will retain the right angles. 
Of course the boards for the hive must be perfect rectangles, 
and of just the right length and width, before the bevels are cut. 

Fig. 39. 




Bevel-Gauge. 

Such a carrier (Fig 39) I ordered for my Barnes' saw, from 
a cabinet-maker. It was made of hard wood, all three joints 
dove-tailed, and nicely finished, at a cost of $1.50. 

In sawing the ends and sides of the hive, whether by hand 
or with a buzz-saw, use should be made of a guide, so that 
perfect uniformity will be secured. 

THE BOTTOM BOARD. 

For a bottom board or stand (Fig. 40), we should have a 
single one-inch board (Fig. 40, a) just as wide as the hive, 
and four inches longer, if the bees are to enter at the end of 
the hive, and as long, and four inches wider, if the bees are to 
enter at the side. This is nailed to two pieces of two-by-four 
scantling (Fig. 40, b, b). Thus the hive rests four inches 
from the ground. A bottom board no wider than the hive, 
which shall be simply a bottomless box four inches high, has 



126 



Bottom and Alighting Boards. 



decided advantage. Bees can never cluster under it while 
being manipulated in summer, and in winter by simply turn- 
ing it over and partially filling with chaff, or saw-dust, we 
help to protect against cold and damp and give more room 
below the frames. 



THE ALIGHTING BOARD. 

This should be separate from the bottom board (Fig. 40, c). 
It is made by sawing a piece of two-by-four scantling, eight 
inches long, diagonally across from two of the shortest edges. 
These two pieces (Fig. 40, d) thus formed become rests for a 

Fig. 40. 




a — Bottom board, 
c— Alighting board. 



b, b— Supports. 
d— Supports. 



board eight inches square (Fig. 40, c), it may be longer as 
in the cut, which is nailed on to the sawed surfaces. We thus 
have a slanting alighting-board separate from the hive. 

Should the apiarist desire his bees to enter at the side of 
the hive, the alighting-board (Fig. 40, c) should be changed to 
the side (Fig. 41). I have tried both, and see no difference, 
so the matter may be controlled by the taste of the apiarist. 

For an opening to the hive (Fig. 41), we may bevel the 
middle of the edge of the bottom board, next to the inclined 
board. At the edge, this bevel should be three-quarters of 
an inch deep and four inches wide. It may decrease in both 
width and depth as it runs back, until at a distance of four 
inches it is one-half of an inch wide and five thirty-seconds of 
an inch deep. This may terminate the opening, though the 
shoulder at the end may be beveled off if desired. 

With this bottom board the bees are near the ground, and 
with the slanting-board in front even the most tired and 
heavily-laden will not fail to gain the hive, as they come in 
with their load of stores. In the spring, too, many bees are 
saved, as they come in on windy days, by low hives and an 



Cover of Hive, 127 

alighting-board. No hive should be more than four inches 
from the ground, except in very damp regions where it may 
be raised somewhat higher, and no hive should be without the 
slanting alighting-board. With this opening the entrance can 
be contracted in case of robbing, or entirely closed when de- 
sired, by simply moving the hive back. 

Some apiarists cut an opening in the side of the hive, and 
regulate the size by tin slides or triangular blocks (Fig. 36) ; 
others form an opening by sliding the hive forward beyond the 
bottom board — which I would do with the above (Fig. 41) in 
hot weather when storing was very rapid. 

I strongly urge that only one openi< g be used. Auger 
holes about the hive, and entrances on two sides, are worse 
than useless. By enlarging this opening, we secure ample 
ventilation, even in sultry August, and when we contract the 
entrance no bees are lost by finding the usual door closed. 

Some of our best bee-keepers, as Messrs. Heddon, Jones, 
Baldridge, and others, prefer that the bottom board be nailed to 
the hive (Fig. 36). Such hives will not permit a quick clear- 
ing of the bottom board, when we give a cleansing flight in 
winter, or when we commence operations in spring, and with their 
use we cannot contract the opening in cold weather, or to stop 
robbing, without the blocks or tins. Simplicity should be_ the 
motto in hive-making. The arguments in favor of such fasten- 
ing are : Convenience in moving colonies and in feeding, as 
we have not to fasten the bottoms when we desire to ship our 
bees, and to feed we have only to pour liquids into the hives. 
It is probable that the fastened bottom boards have substantial 
advantage in large apiaries where colonies are often moved, or 
where sales of bees are frequent. 

Of course, such points are not essential — only matters of 
convenience. Let each one decide for himself, which expe- 
rience will enable him to do. 

THE COVER OF THE HIVE. 

The cover (Fig. 41, a) should be about six inches high, 
and like the lid of a trunk. The length and breadth may be 
the same as the body of the hive, and fit on with beveled 
edges (Fig. 41, a) the body having the outer edge beveled, and 
the cover the inner. If we thus join the cover and hive with 
a mitered-joint, we must not be satisfied with anything less 



128 



Cover of Hive. 



than perfection, else in case of storms the rain will beat into 
our hives, which should never be permitted. Such covers can 
be fastened to the hives with hinges, or by hooks and staples. 
But unless the apiarist is skilled in the use of tools, or hires a 
mechanic to make his hives, it will be more satisfactory to 

Fig. 41. 




' #4KtR-CO 



Two Story Hive. 



c— Lower story. 



b— Upper storv. 



make the cover just large enough (Fig. 36) to shut over and 
rest on shoulders formed either by nailing inch strips around 
the body of the hive (Fig. 38, c), one inch from the top, or 
else inside the cover (Fig. 36). If it is preferred to have a 



Second Stoiy of Hive. 



129 



two-story hive, with the upper story (Fig. 41, b) just like the 
loAver (Fig. 41, c), this may join the lower by a miter-joint, 
while a cover (Fig. 41, a), two inches high, may join this with 
a similar joint. 

If the upper story shuts over the lower and rests on a 
shoulder (Fig. 38, /) it may still be made to take the same 
sized frame, by nailing pieces one-half an inch square to the 
corners, whose length shall equal the distance from the rabbet 
in the lower story to the bottom board. We then nail to these 
upright pieces, parallel to the rabbeted faces below, a three- 
eighths inch board as wide as the pieces are long. The top of 
these thin boards will take the place of the rabbet in the lower 
story. This style, which is adopted in the two-story hives as 
made by Mr. Langstroth (Fig. 36), will permit in the upper 
story the same frames as used in the lower story, while two 
more can be inserted. Upon this upper story a shallow cover 
will rest. Such covers, if desired, may be made roof-like 

Fig. 42. 




(Fig. 42), by cutting end pieces (Fig. 42, b) in form of the 
gable of a house. In this case there will be two slanting 
boards (Fig. 42, a, a), instead of one that is horizontal, to 
carry off the rain. The slanting boards should project at the 
ends (Fig. 42, d), for convenience in handling. In such 
covers we need thin, narrow ridge-boards (Fig. 42, c), to keep 
all perfectly dry. These covers look neat, are not so apt to 
check, and wilHlry much quicker after a rain. 

If we secure comb-honey in crates, and winter out-doors — 
in which case we shall need to protect in the Northern States — 
it will be convenient to have a box (Fig. 38) of the same general 
form as the main body of the hive, from six to eight inches deep, 
just large enough to set over the body of the hive .and rest on 
shoulder-strips, and without top or bottom ; this to have such 
a cover as just described. Such is the arrangement of the 
noted apiarist James Heddon, Southard and Ranney, of Kala- 

9 



130 



Frames. 



mazoo, and many others, which, on the score of simplicity 
and convenience, has much to recommend it. Mr. Heddon 
makes his crate serve this purpose, and has his hives well shaded. 
In the above I have said nothing about porticos (Fig. 36). 
If hives are shaded as they should be, these are useless, and I 
believe that in no case will they pay. To be sure, they are 
nice for spider-webs, and a shady place in which bees may 
cluster ; but such are inconvenient places to study the wondrous 
fabrics of the spider, even were he a friend of the bees, and 
the most successful apiarist will not force his bees to hang in 
idle clusters about the hive. Mr. George Grimm, however, 
thinks much of the portico. He practices moving his bees 
frequently, and in cool weather has to give no other ventilation 
than that secured by nailing wire gauze over the portico. 

THE FEAME8. 

The form and size of frames, though not quite as various as 

Fig. 43. 



18« 

QUINBY. 



K 



12 



American. 



17* 
Langstroth. 



ADAIR. fc 



11* 

Gallup. 



19X 
Clobbd end Quinbt. 



the persons who use them, are still very different (Fig. 43). 
Some prefer large frames. I first used the Quinby frame, and 



The Gallup frame. 131 

afterward the Langstroth (Fig. 43). The advantage claimed 
for large frames is that there are less to handle, and time is 
saved ; .yet may not smaller frames be handled so much more 
dexterously, especially if they are to be handled through all 
the long day, as to compensate, in part at least, for the num- 
ber ? The advantage of the shallow frame is, as claimed, that 
the bees will go into boxes more readily ; yet they are not con- 
sidered so safe for out-door wintering. This is the style recom- 
mended and used by Mr. Langstroth, which fact may account 
for its popularity in the United States. Another frame in 
common use, is one about one foot square. I use one eleven 
and one-fourth inches square. The reasons that I prefer this 
form are, that the comb seldom breaks from the frame, the 
frames are convenient for nuclei and save the expense of con- 
structing extra nucleus hives, and these frames permit the 
most compact arrangement for winter and spring, and thus 
enable us to economize heat. By use of a division board, we 
can, by using eight of these frames, occupy just a cubic foot 
of space in spring, and by repeated experiments I have found 
that a hive so constructed that the bees always cover the combs 
during the early cold weather, always gives the best results. 
Dr. Tinker, of Ohio, showed by ample statistics, that in the severe 
winter of 1882-3 the Gallup frame did prove by far the best. 
As the honey season comes on more can be added, till we have 
reached twelve, as many, I think, as will ever be needed for 
brood. This was the size of frame preferred by Mr. Gallup, 
and is the one used by Messrs. Davis and Doolittle, Dr. 
Tinker, and many others of our most successful apiarists. 
That this size is imperative is, of* course, not true; that it 
combines as many desirable points as any other, I think is 
true. For apiarists who are not very strong, especially for 
ladies, it is beyond question superior to all others. 

That we shall ever have a uniform frame used by all 
apiarists, though exceedingly desirable, is too much to expect 
or even hope. I do not think that there is sufficient advantage 
in any form to warrant us to hold to it, if by yielding we could 
secure this uniformity. As will be seen in the British Bee 
Journal, 1882, p. 243, our British brothers are striving for 
this, and have adopted a frame eight and one-half by fourteen 
inches. Our North American Association might move in the 
same direction. Nor do I think the form and size so material 



132 



Frame-Making. 



to success as to make it generally desirable for the apiarist to 
change all his hives to secure a different style of frame. 

HOW TO CONSTRUCT THE FRAMES. 

In this description, I shall suppose that the frames desired 
are of the form and size (Fig. 44) which I use. It will be 
easy, for any who may desire, to change the form at pleasure. 



Fig. 44. 



Fig. 45. 




Frame, also Cross-Section of Top-Bar. 

For the top bar (Fig. 44, a) of the frame, use a triangular 
strip twelve and one-half inches long, with each face of the 
triangle one inch across. Seven-eighths of an inch from each 
end of this, form a shoulder, by sawing from one angle to 
within three-eighths of an inch of the opposite face, so that 
when the piece is split out from the end, these projections 
shall be just three-eighths of an inch thick throughout. The 
top bar of the frame should be large and strong so as never to 
break or even bend when in use. For the side pieces (Fig. 
44, b, b), take strips ten and three-fourths inches long, seven- 
eighths of an inch wide, and one-fourth of an inch thick. 
Tack with small brads the end of two of these strips firmly to 
the shoulder of the top-bar, taking pains that the end touches 
squarely against the projection. Now tack to the opposite 
ends or bottoms, the ends of a similar strip (Fig. 44, d), 
eleven and a-fourth inches long and one eighth of an inch 
thick. We shall thus have a frame eleven and one-fourth 
inches square, outside measure. 

If comb-foundation is to be used, and certainly it will be 
by the enterprising apiarist, then the top bar (Fig. 45, a) 
should be twelve and one-half inches by three-eighths by one 



Frame-Making. 



133 



inch, with a rectangular, instead of a triangular, projection 
below (Fig. 45, 6), which should be one-fourth by one-eighth 
inch, the longer diameter up and down. This should be 
entirely to one side of the center (Fig. 45, c), so that when 
the foundation is pressed against this piece it will hang exactly 
from the center of the top-bar. If preferred, the bottom of 
the frame (Fig. 45, e) need not be more than half as wide or 
thick as described above. Very soon all will use wire frames, 
for foundation, and the top bar will be a plain rectangle. 

Mr. D. A. Jones, with many others, prefers that the end 
bars of the frames project downward (Fig. 46) and that the 
bottom bar project at each end. It is thought that this saves 
the lives of bees, when the frames are being rapidly handled. 

Fig. 46. 




Jones' Chaff Hive, Frame, Frame for Sections, Division Board and 
Perforated Zinc Division Board. 

It is now quite the fashion to wire the frames (Fig. 110). 
This insures perfect safety if we wish to ship our bees, and 
secures against sagging or bulging of the foundation. If the 
foundation is put on with a press, No. 36 wire is used ; if 
pressed on by hand No. 30 wire is better. The timber for frame 
should be thoroughly seasoned, and of the best pine or white- 
wood., Care should be taken that the frame be made so as to hang 
vertically, when suspended on the rabbets of the hive. To 
secure this very important point — true frames that will always 
hang true — they should always be made around a guide. 



134 Gauge far Frame-Making. 

A BLOCK FOR MAKING FRAMES. 

This may be made as follows : Take a rectangular board 
(Fig. 47) eleven and one-eighth by thirteen and a-quarter inches. 
On both ends of one face of this, nail hard-wood pieces (Fig. 47, 
e, e) one inch square and ten and three-fourth inches long, so 
that one end (Fig. 47, g, g) shall lack three-eighths inch of 
reaching the edge of the board. On the other face of the 
board, nail a strip (Fig 47, c) four inches wide and eleven and 
three-eighths inches long, at right angles to it, and in such 
position that the ends shall just reach to the edges of the board. 
Midway between the one inch square pieces, screw on another 
hard- wood strip (Fig 4 47, d) one inch square and four inches 
long, parallel with and three-fourths of an inch from the edge. 
To the bottom of this, screw a semi-oval piece of hoop-steel 
(Fig. 47, b, b), which shall bend around and press against the 
square strips. The ends of this should not reach quite to the 
bottom of the board. Near the ends of this spring fasten, by 
rivets, a leather strap an inch wide (Fig. 47, a;, which shall be 
straight when thus riveted. These dimensions are for frames 
eleven and one-fourth inches square, outside measure, and 
must be varied for other sizes. Instead of the iron and strap, 
some use two pieces of wood with a central pivot. The upper 
ends of these levers are united by a strong elastic cord, so that 
the lower ends are constantly pressed against the side pieces of 
the block. 

To use this block, we crowd the end-bars of our frames 
between the steel springs (Fig. 47, b, b), and the square strips 
(Fig. 47, e, e) ; then lay on our top-bar and nail, after which 
we invert the block and nail the bottom-bar, as we did the 
top-bar. Now press clown on the strap (Fig 47, a), which 
will loosen the frame, when it may be removed, all complete 
and true. Such a gauge not only insures perfect frames, but 
demands that every piece shall be cut with great accuracy, 
and some such arrangement should always be used in making 
the frames. 

The projecting ends of the top-bar will rest on the tins 
(Fig. 41), and thus the frame can be easily loosened at any 
time without jarring the bees, for it will not be glued fa§t, as 
it would be in case it rested on the wooden rabbets. The 
danger' of killing bees is also abolished by use of the tins. 



Cover for the Frames. 



135 



When the frames are in the hive there should be a three- 
eighths inch space between the sides and bottom of the frames, 
and the sides and bottom of the hive. A much wider space 
would very likely receive the comb, and be troublesome. 
Frames that fit close in the hive, or that reach to the bottom, 
are very inconvenient and undesirable. To secure against this, 
our lumber must be thoroughly seasoned, else when shrinkage 
takes place our frames may touch the bottom-board. 

Fig. 47. 




The distance between the frames may be one-half of an inch, 
though a slight variation either way does no harm. Some 
men, of very precise habits, prefer nails or wire staples in the 
side of the frames (as already stated, Mr. Jones prolongs the 
sides and bottom of the frame for the same purpose) at top 
and bottom, which project just a quarter of an inch, so as to 
maintain this unvarying distance ; or staples in the bottom of 
the hive to secure the same end. Mr. Langstroth so arranged 
his frames, and Mr. Palmer, of Hart, Michigan, whose neat- 
ness is only surpassed by his success, does the same thing. I 
have had hives with these extra attachments, but found in them 
no special advantage. I think we can regulate the distance 
with the eye, so as to meet every practical demand, and thus 
save the expense and trouble which the above attachments cost. 

COVER FOR FRAMES. 

In summer I prefer oil-cloth to cover the frames. This is 
used with the glazed or enameled side down, and should be 



136 



Division Board. 



just the size of the hive. This is durable, is not covered so 
quickly with propolis, and is easily cleaned. Some keep this 
on in winter, but I prefer a porous cover. From the cold days 
of fall to the warm spring days, I replace the enamel-cloth 
covers with those made of the best factory cloth. As these are 
just the size of the hive when once properly on, the bees can 
never get above them. By cutting on three sides of a square, 
one inch on a side, we form a flap which, when we desire to 
feed, may be turned back and the hole of the feeder placed 
right above it. . 

Mr. Langstroth used a board which he called the Honey 
Board, above the frames, which Mr. Heddon uses even now. 
This has long narrow openings in it, through which the bees 
can pass to the sections above. Perhaps Mr. Heddon never 
used cloth covers. Perhaps his love of order and neatness 
caused him to discard them. Still, I feel grateful towards 
Mr. A. I. Root for calling my attention to these warm, soft, 
flexible covers. 

DIVISION BOARD. . 

A close-fitting division board (Fig. 48) for contracting the 
brood chamber, is very important, and though unappreciated 
by many excellent apiarists, yet I think no hive is complete 
without it. 

Fig. 48. 




I find it especially valuable in winter and spring, and useful 
at all seasons. It is made of the same form as the frames, 
though all below the top-bar — which consists of a strip thirteen 
inches, by one inch, by three-eights, nailed firmly to the board 
below — is a solid inch board (Fig. 48, 6), which is exactly one 
foot square, so that it fits closely to the inside of the hive. If 



The Huber Hive. 137 

desired, the edges (Fig. 48, c, c) can be beveled, as seen in the 
figure. When this is inserted in the hive it entirely separates 
the chamber into two chambers, so that an insect much smaller 
than a bee could not pass from the one to the other. Mr. A. I. 
Boot makes one of cloth, chaff, etc. Yet, I think few apiarists 
• would bother with so much machinery. Mr. W. L. Porter, 
once Secretary of the Michigan Association, makes the board 
a little loose, and then inserts a rubber strip in a groove sawed 
in the edges. This keeps the board snug, and makes its inser- 
tion easy, even though heat may shrink or damp may swell 
either the board or hive. I have not tried this, but like the 
suggestion. Mr. D. A. Jones prefers that the division-board 
should not reach quite to the bottom of the hive (Fig. 46). 

The use of the division board is to contract the chamber in 
winter, to vary it so as to keep combs covered in Spring, to con- 
vert the hive into a nucleus hive, and to contract the chamber 
in the upper-story of a two-story hive, when first adding frames 
to secure surplus comb honey. 

THE HUBER HIVE. 

The other type of hives originated when Huber hinged 
several of his leaf or unicomb hives together so that the 
frames would open like the leaves of a book. In August, 
1779, Huber wrote to Bonnet as follows: "I took several 
small fir boxes, a foot square and fifteen lines wide, and joined 
them together by hinges, so that they could be opened and 
shut like the leaves of a book. When using a hive of this 
description, we took care to fix a comb in each frame, and 
then introduced all the bees. " (Edinburgh edition of Huber, 
p. 4.) Although Morlot and others attempted to improve 
this hive, it never gained favor with practical apiarists. 

In 1866, Mr. T. F. Bingham, then of New York, improved 
upon the Huber hive, securing a patent on his triangular 
frame hive. This, so far as I can judge, was the Huber hive 
made practical. Mr. Bingham now uses a modification of 
this hive (Fig. 50). 

In 1868, Mr. M. S. Snow, then of New York, now of Min- 
nesota, procured a patent on his hive, which was essentially 
the same as the hives now known as the Quinby and Bingham 
hives. 



138 



The Quinby Hive. 



Soon after, the late Mr. Quinby brought forth his hive, 
which is essentially the same as the above, only differing in 
details. No patent was obtained by Mr. Quinby, whose great 
heart and boundless generosity endeared him to all acquaint- 
ances. Those who knew him best, never tire of praising the 
unselfish acts and life of this noble man. If we except Mr. 
Langstroth, no other man has probably done so much to pro- 
mote the interest and growth of improved apiculture in the 
United States. His hive, his book, his views of wintering, his 
introduction of the bellows-smoker — a gift to apiarists — all 
speak his praise as a man and an apiarist. 

The facts that the Bingham hive, as now made, is a great 
favorite with those that have used it, that Mr. Quinby pre- 
ferred this style or type of hive, that the Quinby form is used 
by the Hetherington brothers, Captain J. E. , the prince of 
American apiarists, and O. J. , whose neatness, precision, and 
mechanical skill are enough to awaken envy, are surely 
sufficient to excite curiosity and bespeak a description. 

The Quinby hive (Fig. 49), as used by the Hetherington 
brothers, consists of a series of rectangular frames (Fig. 49) 
twelve by seventeen inches, outside measure. The ends of 
these frames are one and a half inches wide and half an inch 

Fig. 49. 




Frame, Bottom- Board and Frame-Support of Quinby Hive. 

thick. The top and bottom one inch wide and half an inch 
thick. The outer half of the end bars projects one-fourth of 
an inch beyond the top and bottom bars. This projection is 
lined on the inside with sheet iron, which is inserted in a groove 
which runs one inch into each end of the end-pieces and is 



The Bingham Hive. 139 

tacked by the same nails that fasten the end-bars to the top 
and bottom-bars. This iron at the end of the bar bends in at 
right-angles (Fig. 49, a), and extends one-fourth of an inch 
parallel with the top and bottom-bars. Thus, when these 
frames stand side by side, the ends are close, while half-inch 
openings extend between the top and bottom-bars of adjacent 
frames. The bottom-bars, too, are one-fourth of an inch from 
the bottom-board. Tacked to the bottom-board, in line with 
the position of the back end-bars of the frames, is an inch strip 
of sheet-iron (Fig. 49, b, b) sixteen inches in length. One- 
third of this strip, from the front edge back, is bent over so it 
lies not quite in contact with the second third, while the pos- 
terior third receives the tacks which hold it to the bottom- 
board. Now, when in use this iron flange receives the hooks 
on the corners of the frames, so that the frames are held firmly, 
and can only be moved back and side-wise. In looking at the 
bees we can separate the combs at once, at any place. The 
chamber can be enlarged or diminished simply by adding or 
withdrawing frames. As the hooks are on all four corners of 
the frames, the frames can be either end back, or either side, 
up. This arrangement, which permits the inversion of the 
frames, is greatly praised by those who have tried it. It is 
claimed, that by turning a frame bottom up the comb will be 
fastened above and below, and the bees, in their haste to carry 
the honey from the bottom of the frames, will rush at once into 
the sections. Boards with iron hooks close the side of the 
brood cavity, while a cloth covers the frames. 

The entrance (Fig 49, e) is cut in the bottom-board as 
already explained, except that the lateral edges are kept 
parallel. A strip of sheet-iron (Fig. 49, d) is tacked across 
this, on which rest the ends of the front end-bars of the frames 
which stand above, and underneath which pass the bees as 
they come to and go from the hive. A box, without bottom 
and with movable top, covers all, leaving a space from four to 
six inches above and on all sides between it and the frames. 
This gives chance to pack with chaff in winter, and for side 
and top storing in sections in summer. 

The Bingham hive (Fig. 50) is not only remarkably simple, 
but is as remarkable for its shallow depth ; the frames being 
only five inches high. These have no bottom-bar. The end- 
bars are one and a half inches wide, and the top-bar square. 



140 The Ruber Type of Hives. 

The nails that hold the end-bars pass into the end of the top 
bar, which is usually placed diagonally, so that an edge, not 
a face, is below ; though some are made with a face below 
(Fig. 50, /), to be used when comb is transferred. The 
frames are held together by two wires, one at each end. Each 
wire (Fig. 50, a) is a little longer than twice the width of the 
hive when the maximum number of frames are used. The 

Fig. 50. 




Frames and Bottom-Board of the Bingham Hive. 

ends of each wire are united and placed about nails (Fig. 50, 
b, b) in the ends of the boards (Fig. 50, e, c) which form the 
sides of the brood-chamber. A small stick (Fig. 50, a) spreads 
these wires, and brings the frames close together. A box 
without bottom and with movable cover, is placed about the 
frames. This is large and high enough to permit of chaff 
packing in winter and spring. The bottom board may be 
made like the one already described. Mr. Bingham does not 
bevel the bottom-board, but places lath under three sides of 
the brood-chamber, the lath being nailed to the bottom-board. 
He uses the Langstroth blocks to contract the entrance (Fig. 
50, </). - 

The advantages of this hive are, simplicity, great space 
above for surplus frames or boxes, capability of being placed 
one hive above another to any height desired, while the frames 
may be reversed, end for end, or bottom for top, or the whole 
brood-chamber turned up-side down. Thus, by doubling, we 
may have a depth of ten inches for winter. 

The objection which I have found in the use of such hives, 
is danger of killing bees in rapid handling. They can be 
manipulated with rapidity if we care not how many bees we 
crush. It hurts me to kill a bee, and so I find the Langstroth 
style more quickly manipulated. Mr. Snow, too, who was 



Comb Honey Sections. 



141 



the first to make the above style of hive, has discarded it in 
favor of the Langstroth. His objection to the above, is the 
fact that the various combs are not sure to be so built as to be 
interchangeable. Yet that such apiarists as those above nam- 
ed prefer these Huber hives, after long use of the other style, 
is certainly not without significance. 

OBSERVING HIVE. 

^To study bees while they are at work, requires a hive so 
constructed that we can look in upon all the bees of the hive 
at pleasure. For this purpose, I have used a small Laug- 
stroth hive (Fig. 51), containing one frame. Glass is used 

Fig. 51. 




Observing Hive. 

each side of the frame and this is shaded by doors, hung on 
hinges. We are able to look at the bees or make all dark in- 
side at pleasure. To prevent the hive from becoming too 
crowded, we must every twenty-three or four days shake the 
bees from the frame and replace the latter with another frame, 
which shall contain no brood. From such a hive in my study 
window, I have received much pleasure and information. 

APPARATUS FOR PROCURING COMB-HONEY. 

Although I feel sure that extracted honey will grow more 
and more in favor, yet it will never supersede the beautiful 
comb, which, from its exquisite flavor and attractive appear- 



142 Veneer Sections. 

ance, has always been, and always will be, admired and desired. 
So, no hive is complete without its arrangement of section- 
frames and crates, all constructed with the view of securing 
this delectable comb-honey in the form that will be most tempt- 
ing to the eye and palate. 

SURPLUS COMB-HONEY IN SECTIONS. 

Honey in several-pound boxes is no longer marketable, and 
is now almost wholly replaced by comb-honey in sections. In 
fact, there is no apparatus for securing comb-honey that prom- 
ises so well as these sections. That they are just the thing to 
enable us to tickle the market is shown by their rapid groAvth 
in popular favor. Some years ago I predicted, at one of our 
State Conventions, that they would soon replace boxes, and 
was laughed at. Nearly all who then laughed, now use these 
sections. They are cheap, and with their use we can get 
more honey, and in a form that will make it irresistible. 

REQUISITES OF GOOD SECTIONS. 

The wood should be white, the size just such as the market 
demands, the form such as is convenient to use with our hives, 
so made that they may be glassed, not too much cut off from 
brood-chamber, cheap, easily made, and so arranged as to be 
put on or taken off the hive en masse. 

DESCRIPTION. 

Since 1877, I have made neat, cheap sections, using clean 
white veneer, such as is used to make berry boxes. The 
veneer can be procured at the factories, of any width, and 
Fig. 52. 



Fig. 53. 

3-16 Four Inches. 3-16 




Cutting Edge of Chisel. 



with a cross cut, so when they are bent they will be of any 
desired form and size. I have bent them around a block 
(Fig. 52), let them lap above the iron (Fig. 52, 6), and 
tacked them with wrought tacks. To cut out spaces, I use a 



• 



Sections and Dividers. 



143 



chisel (Fig. 53), to cut out the space, so that the bees may 
enter the sections. These sections are awkward to glass, and 
only good for home market, as they are too frail to ship. 
They are cheap and easily made. They cost about two mills 
each. 

The Hetherington brothers make a very neat section, as 
follows : The top and bottom are each two inches wide, of 
one-quarter inch white pine. These receive a groove one- 
eighth inch from the ends, which receives the sides, one inch 
wide and one-eighth inch thick, which are pressed through to 
a central position and glued. This section is five and a half 
inches square. They use wooden dividers (Fig. 54, a), one- 
eighth of an inch thick, as long as the section, but one inch 

Fig. 55. 





Separator. 



Dove- Tailed Section. 



less in height, so that below and above is a half-inch space, 
which permits the bees to pass readily from one section to 
another. These are held by a half-inch strip of tin (Fig. 54, 
b, b), which passes through a groove (Fig. 54, c), in the ends 
of the dividers, and reaches half an inch farther ; then turns 
at right-angles and ends in a point (Fig. 54, 6),. which, when 
in use, sticks into the top or bottom pieces ; and so the four 
points hold the divider in place. When ready to sell, they 
insert half-inch glass in the grooves each side the narrow side- 
pieces, and with tins fasten gmss on the faces, and have a 
very handsome section. It will be noticed that we have a 
half-inch space between the sections. It ought to be at least 
three-eighths of an inch. This makes inspection easy, aids in 
getting the bees out when the sections are removed, facilitates 
the passage of the bees, and the handling of the sections. - 

Dr. C. C. Miller prefers sections made as are children's 
toy blocks, the sides fastened by a sort of mortise and tennon 



144 Nailed Sections. 

arrangement (Fig. 55). I have received from Mr. James 
Heddon a similar section, very neat and beautifully finished, 
which is made in Vermont. 

The Phelps-Wheeler-Betsinger sections (Fig. 56) are 
essentially the same. The top and bottom are three-eighths 
narrower than the sides, and are nailed to them. The Wheeler 

Fig. 56. Fig. 57. 




fcj — ' i-n 




One Pound Section 
Fig. 58. 

Nailed Section. . 

Prize Section. 

section — invented and patented by Mr. Geo. T. Wheeler, 
Mexico, New York, in 1870 — is remarkable for being the first 
(Fig. 64, K) to be used with tin separators (Fig. 64, M). 
Instead of making the bottoms narrower for a passage, Mr. 
Wheeler made an opening in the bottom. 

Another style of section, termed the one-piece-section (Fig. 
57), is, as its name implies, made of a single piece of wood, 
with three cross cuts so that it can be easily bent into a 
square. The fourth angle unites by notches and projections 
as before described (Fig. 55). This is now patented by a Mr. 
Farncrook, of Wisconsin ; but as I made and used essentially 
the same thing at least four years before the patent was grant- 
ed, I do not see how it can be valid. Still I am no lawyer ; 
much less a patent-right attorney. These one-piece sections 
are now, I think, the favorites among bee-keepers. 

Heretofore there have been two prevailing sizes of sections 
in use in the United States ; #e prize section (Fig. 58) which 
is five and one-fourth by six and one-fourth inches, and the 
one pound section, (Fig. 57) which is four and one-fourth 
inches square. The latter is coming rapidly to the front, as 
honey in it sells more readily than if in a larger section. Even 
half pound sections have taken the lead in the Boston and 
Chicago markets the past season. It is quite possible that 
these small sections will rule in the markets of the future. 



Sections in Frames. 145 

They would often sell more readily, and are far better to ship, 
as the combs would seldom ever break from the sections. 
If, in arranging our sections, we desire to have them oblong, 
we better make them so that they will be longest up and down. 
Mr. D. A. Jones finds that if so made, they are filled and 
capped much sooner. In the depth of the section, -which fixes 
the thickness of the comb, a change from the common style 
seems to be desirable. Heretofore they have been generally 
made two inches deep. With such sections we must use 
separators to secure perfect combs. By reducing the depth 
to from one and three-eighth to one and three-fourth inches, 
the expense of separators is said to be unnecessary. We 
secure niter comb for the table, and more bees are able to 
work on a crate or frame of sections, so that the foundation 
is more speedily drawn out. Of course any decided change 
in the form and size of our sections involves no small ex- 
pense, as it requires that the crates or frames for holding the 
sections should also be changed. Often, however, by a little 
planning we can vary the form so as to reduce the size, with- 
out necessitating this expense. 

HOW TO PLAGE SECTIONS IN POSITION. 

There are two methods, each of which is excellent and has, 
as it well may, earnest advocates — one by use of frames, the 
other by crates. 

SECTIONS IN FRAMES. 

Frames for holding sections (Fig. 59) are made the same 
size as the frames in the brood chamber. The depth of the 
frame, however, is the same as the depth of the sections. The 
bottom bar is three-eighths of an inch narrower than the remain- 
der of the frame, so that when two frames are side by side, there 
is three-eighths of an inch space between the bottom bars, though 
the top and side pieces are close together. The sections are of 
such a size (Fig. 61, K) that four, or six, or nine, etc., will 
just fill one of the large frames. Nailed to one side of each 
large frame are two tin, or thin wooden strips (Fig. 61, t, t) in 
case separators are to be used, as long as the frame, and as wide 
into one inch as are the sections. These are tacked half an inch 
from the top and the bottom of the large frames, and so are 
opposite the sections, thus permitting the bees to pass readily 

10 



146 



Sections in Frames. 



from one tier of sections to another, as do the narrower top and 
bottom-bars of the sections, from those below to those above. 
Captain Hetherington tells me that Mr. Quinby used these 

Fig. 59. 




Gallup Section- Front. 

years ago. The tin arrangement, though unlike Mr. Wheeler's 
(Fig. 64, M), would be readily suggested by it. It is more 
trouble to make these frames if we have the tins set in so as 

Fig. 60. 




Perforated Zinc Division- Board. 

just to come flush with the edge of the end-bars of the frames, 
but then the frames would hang close together, and would not 
be so stuck together with propolis. These may be hung in the 



Grates for Sections. 



147 



second story of a two-story hive, and just so many as to fill the 
same — my hives will take nine — or they can be put below, 
beside the brood-combs. Mr. Doolittle, in case he hangs these 
below, inserts a perforated division-board, so that the queen 
will not enter the sections and lay eggs. 

The perforated zinc division-board (Fig. 60) would serve 
admirably for this purpose. A honey-board of the same 
material keeps sections, either in crates or frames, that are 
above the hive, neat, and also keeps the queen from entering 
them. The workers enter just as freely. 

In long hives, the "New Idea" — which I find very satis- 
factory, after several years' trial, especially for extracted honey 
— I have used these frames of sections, and with the best suc- 
cess. The Italians enter them at once, and fill them even 
more quickly than other bees fill the sections in the upper 

Fig. 61. 




Gallup Frame with Sections. 

story. In fact, one great advantage of these sections in the 
frames is the obvious and ample passage-ways, inviting the bees 
to enter them. But in our desire to make ample and inviting 
openings, caution is required that we do not over-do the matter, 
and invite the queen to injurious intrusion. So we have 
Charybdis and Scylla, and must, by study, learn to so steer 
between as to avoid both dangers. 



148 



Sections in Crates. 



Mr. Jones finds that by using the division-board made of 
perforated zinc (Fig. 60), the queen is kept from the sections, 
and they can be safely placed in one end of the body of the hive. 

The coming summer I shall use six sections in the Gallup 
frame, each one, five and one-fourth by three and one-half 

Fig. 62. 




Langstroth Frame with One Pound Sections. 

inches, and shall try some no thicker than one and three-eighths 
inches. Figure (52 shows a Langstroth frame full of one 
pound sections. 

CRATES OK RACKS. 

These (Fig. 37 ) are to use in lieu of large frames, to hold 
sections, and are very convenient when we wish to set the sec- 
tion's only one dee}) above the brood-chamber. Though, if 
desired, we can place one rack above another, as practiced by 
Mr. James Heddon, and so have sections two, and even three 
deep. 

Fig. 63. 




Crate for Sections. 

Southard and Raney, of Kalamazoo* use a very neat rack 
(Fig. 63), in which they use the thin veneer sections. The 



Hacks and Crates. 



149 



sheet-iron rests (Fig. 63, H, H, H), with their bent edges, 
just raise the rack one-fourth of an inch from the brood frames. 
Mr. Heddon uses a similar crate without the iron strips. 

The Wheeler rack (Fig. 64) simply holds the sections, while 
each section is glassed separately. 



Fig. 64. 




WJieekr Rack. 

The most common crate now in use (Fig. 65) is simple and 
cheap. Long tins (Fig. 65, b, b) extend between the rows. 
of sections, though these may be wood, the outside sections 

Fig. 65. 




Sections in Crate. 

receive glass (Fig. 65, c, c), while a clamp (Fig. 65, a) wedges 
the sections firmly in position. 

Captain Hetherington sets a rack of sections above the 
frames, and stands sections one above the other on the side for 
side storing. Mr. Doolittle makes a rack by placing frames, 
such as I have described — except they are only half as high, 



150 Foot Power Saw. 

and hold but two sections — side by side, where they are held 
by tacking a stick on top across each end of the row. He 
also places two tiers, two deep, at each end of the brood- 
chamber, if he desires to give so much room. 

Mr. Adam Grimm once wrote that boxes above the hive 
should not be closely covered. As already stated, Mr. Heddon 
puts no close cover over his sections. Mr. Hasty is pleased 
with simply a cloth, cheap muslin, about his sections and a 
board cover to protect from rains. Such ventilation of the 
sections is scientific as well as practical. 

All apiarists who desire to work for comb honey that will 
sell, will certainly use the sections, and adjust them by use of 
either frames or crates. Each method has its friends, though 
I think crates are taking the lead. 

FOOT POWER SAW. 

Every apiarist, who keeps only a few bees, will find, if he 
makes his own hives, a foot power saw very valuable. I 
have used, with great satisfaction, the admirably combined 
foot power saw of W. F. & John Barnes. It permits rapid 
work, insures uniformity, and enables the apiarist to give a 
finish to his work that would rival that of the cabinet-maker. 

Those who procure such a machine should learn to file and 
set the saw. and should never run the machine when not in 
perfect order. 

When just begining the business it will generally be wise to 
secure a fully equipped hive of some bee-keeper or dealer in 
supplies. If there is a hive factory near at hand, it may pay 
to buy all hives ready made ; otherwise high freights make 
this unprofitable. If a person wishes to manufacture hives 
by the score, either for himself or others, even the foot power 
saw will soon become too slow and wearying. In this case 
some use wind power, which is too uncertain to give full satis- 
faction ; others use horse-power, and still others procure a 
small steam engine. 

Mr. M. H. Hunt, a very thoughtful apiarist, uses a very 
convenient horse power (Fig. 66). The large wheel is fifteen 
feet in diameter, the horse is inside the rim, and the band con- 
sists of a chain, that it may not slip. To get the horse in 
position, the wheel is lowered. 



Horse Power. 
Fig. 66. 



151 




Horse Power. 
In case we use other than foot or hand power, our saw table 

Fig. 67. 




Saiv Table. 



must be firm and heavy. The one illustrated here (Fig. 67) 
is recommended by Mr. A. I. Root. 



152 Apiary Grounds: 

CHAPTER VI. 
POSITION AND ARRANGEMENT OF APIARY. 

As it is desirable to have our apiary grounds so fixed as to 
give the best results, and as this costs some money and more 
labor, it should be done once for all. As plan and execution 
in this direction must needs precede even the purchase of bees, 
this subject deserves an early consideration. Hence we will 
proceed to consider position, arrangement of grounds, and 
preparation for each individual colony. 

POSITION. 

Of course, it is of the first importance that the apiary be 
near at hand. In city or village this is imperative. In the 
country, or at suburban homes, we have more choice, but close 
proximity to the house is of much importance. In a city, it 
may be necessary to follow friend Mirth's example, and locate 
on the house-tops, where, despite the inconvenience, we may 
achieve success. The lay of the ground is not important, 
though if a hill, it should not be very steep. It may slope in 
any direction, but better any way than toward the north. 

ARRANGEMENT OF GROUNDS. 

Unless sandy, these should be well drained. If a grove 
offers inviting shade, accept it, but trim high to avoid damp. 
Such a grove could soon, be formed of bass-wood and tulip 
trees, which, as we shall see, are very desirable, as their bloom 
offers plenteous and most delicious honey. Even Virgil urged 
shade of palm and olive, also that we screen the bees from 
winds. Wind-screens are very desirable, especially on the 
windward side. Such a screen may be formed of a tall board 
fence, which, if it surrounds the grounds, will also serve to 
protect against thieves. Yet these are gloomy and forbidding, 
and will be eschewed by the apiarist who has an eye to 
esthetics. Ever-green screens, either of Norway spruce, 
Austrian or other pine, or arbor vitse, each or all, are not only 
very effective, but are quickly grown, inexpensive, and add 
greatly to the beauty of the grounds. If the apiary is large, 



Apiary Grounds. 153 

a small, neat, inexpensive house, in the centre of the apiary 
grounds, is indispensable. This will serve in winter as a shop 
for making hives, frames, etc. , and as a store-house for honey, 
while in summer it will be used for extracting, transferring, 
storing, bottling, etc. In building this, it will be well to con- 
struct a frost-proof, thoroughly drained, dark, and well- 
ventilated cellar. To secure the thorough ventilation, pass a 
tube, which may be made of tile, from near the bottom, 
through the earth to the surface ; and another, from near the 
bottom, to the chimney or stove-pipe above (see chapters 
XVIII and XIX). 

PREPARATION FOE EACH COLONY. 

Virgil was right in recommending shade tor each colony. 
Bees are forced to cluster outside the hive, if the hives are 
subjected to the full force of the sun's rays. By the intense 
heat, the temperature inside becomes like that of an oven, and 
the wonder is that they do not desert entirely. I have known 
hives, thus unprotected, to be covered with bees, idling out- 
side, when by simply shading the hives, all would go merrily 
to work. The combs, too, and foundation especially, are 
liable, in unshaded hives, to melt and fall down, Avhich Is 
very damaging to the bees, and very vexatious to the apiarist. 
The remedy for all this is to always have the hives so situated 
that they will be entirely shaded all through the heat of the 
day. This might be done by constructing a shed or house, 
but these are expensive and inconvenient, and, therefore, to 
be discarded. 

If the apiarist has a convenient grove, this may be trimmed 
high, so as not to be damp, and will fulfill every requirement. 
So arrange the hives that while they are shaded through all the 
heat of the day, they will receive the sun's rays early and late, 
and thus the bees will work more hours. I always face my 
hives to the east. If no grove is at command, the hives may 
be placed on the north of a Concord grape-vine (Fig. 68), or 
other vigorous variety, as the apiarist may prefer. This should 
be trained to a trellis, which may be made by setting two 
posts, either of cedar or oak. Let these extend four or five 
feet above the ground, and be three or four feet apart. Connect 
them at intervals of eighteen inches with three galvanized 
wires, the last one being at the top of the posts. Thus we can 



154 



Preparations for Hims. 



have shade and grapes, and can see for ourselves that bees do 
not injure grapes. If preferred we may use evergreens for 
this purpose, which can be kept low, and trimmed square and 
close on the north. These can be got at once, and are super- 




Nucleus arid Simplicity Hire Shaded by Grape-vine. 

ior in that they furnish ample shade at all seasons. Norway 
spruce is the best. These should be at least six feet apart. 
A. I. Root's idea of having the vine of each succeeding row 
divide the spaces of the previous row, in quincunx order (Fig. 



G-rape-vine Apiary. 
Fig. 69. 



155 




Grape-vine Apiary. 



156 Preparations for Hive*. 

69), is very good; though I should prefer the rows in this 
ease to be four, instead of three feet apart, especially with 
ever-greens. Until protecting shade can be thus permanently 
secured, boards or tent cloth covers should be arranged for 
temporary protection. Many apiarists economize by using 
fruit trees for this purpose, which from their spreading tops 
answer very welL 

Mr. A. I. Root's idea of having sawdust under and about 
the hives is, I think, a good one. The hives of the Michigan 
Agricultural College (Fig. 70) are protected by evergreens, 
trimmed close on the north side. In the figure the artist has 
made a deciduous tree, and so it appears too spreading. A 
space four feet by six, north of the shrubs, was then dug out 
to a depth of four inches, and filled with sawdust (Fig. 70,/), 
underlying which were old bricks, so that nothing would grow 
up through the sawdust. The sawdust thus extends one foot 
back, or west of the hive, three feet north, and the same 
distance to the east or front side of the hive. This makes it 
neat about the hive, and largely removes the danger of losing 
the queen in handling the bees ; as should she fall outside the 
hive, the sharp-sighted apiarist would be very likely indeed 
to see her. 

Mr. J. H. Xellis, long the able Secretary of the North- 
Eastern Bee-Keepers' Association, objects to sawdust, as he 
thinks it rots too quickly, may take fire, and blows about 
badly. He would use sand or gravel instead. I have found 
another objection to the above plan. The grass -comes up too 
freely. Having to change our apiary grounds, I dug the 
hole as above described, and covered the bottom with a thin 
layer of coal tar, upon which I placed a layer of brick, which 
I covered with concrete, and all with a thin layer of gravel. 
This work can be done after the busy season is over. The 
cost is very light, and we have a neat and permanent founda- 
tion for each hive. After the evergreens are well started, all 
the space between the sawdust areas should be in grass, and 
kept neatly mown. This takes but little time, and makes 
the apiary always pleasant and inviting. 



Hive Shaded by Evergreen. 
Fig. 70. 



157 




158 Transferring Bee$. 

CHAPTER VII. 
TO TRANSFER BEES. 

As you may have purchased your bees in box hives, barrels, 
or hollow logs, and so, of course, will desire to transfer them 
immediately into movable-frame hives, or, as already suggest- 
ed, you may wish to transfer from one movable-frame to 
another, I will now proceed to describe the process. 

Among the many valuable methods which Mr. Heddon has 
given to the bee-keeping public not the least valuable is that 
of transferring. By his method the work may be done at any 
season whenever the bees are on the wing. After blowing a 
little smoke into the hive, sufficient to alarm the bees, we set 
it a little aside, and put in its place our new hive full of wired 
foundation. We now turn the old hive, Avhatever it may be, 
bottom side up, and place a box over it. If the bees are suf- 
ficiently smoked, it will make no difference even if the box is 
not close fitting to the old hive. We then with a stick or 
hammer rap on the hive for from ten to twenty minutes. The 
bees will fill with honey and go with the queen into the upper 
box and cluster. If towards the last we carefully set the box 
off once or twice, and vigorously shake the hive, and then re- 
place the box, we will hasten the emigration of the bees, and 
make it more complete. I got this suggestion from Mr. Bald- 
ridge. A few young bees will still remain in the old hive, but 
these will do no harm. 

We next take the box which contains the queen and nearly 
all the bees, and shake the bees all out in front of the hive, 
already placed on the old stand. The bees will at once take 
possession, draw out the foundation in a surprisingly short 
time, and will give us a set of combs which will surpass in 
beauty those procured in any other way. Should the bees be 
unable to gather any honey for some days, of course we must 
feed them, but as we shall see in the sequel, this will pay, even 
were it unnecessary. 

We set the old hive aside for twenty-one days, when the 
young bees will all come from the cells. Should the weather 
be cold, Ave might have to put this in a Avarm room, so the 



Old Method of Transferring. 159 

brood will not chill. We now drum out these bees as before, 
kill the queen, which has been reared, and unite the bees with 
the others, or form a separate colony as before — except that 
we supply them with a queen — as the number of bees deter- 
mines. We can now split out the corners of the old hive, 
split the gum, or separate the staves of the barrel, so as not 
to break the comb. This should be carefully cut loose, and 
the honey extracted by use of the wire comb-holder (Fig. 92) 
and the comb melted into wax for foundation. The only loss 
in this method is the time which the bees require to draw out 
the foundation, and this is far more than made up in the su- 
perior combs which are secured. I think the time expended 
in melting up the combs, etc. , is more than made up by the 
time saved in transferring. 

THE OLD METHOD. 

If one has no foundation, or desires to give the bees the 
comb and honey at once, even at the cost of unshapely combs, 
he then should drum the bees out as before, and put the box 
containing the bees on the old stand, leaving the edge raised 
so that the bees whieh are out may enter, and so all the bees 
can get air. This method is difficult, except in spring, and is 
best done about noon when the bees are busy on the fruit 
bloom. If other bees do not trouble, as they usually will not 
if busily gathering, we can proceed in the open air. If they 
do, we must go into some room. I have frequently transfer- 
red the comb in my kitchen, and often in a barn. Now knock 
the old hive apart, as already described, cut the combs from 
the sides, and get the combs out of the old hive with just as 
little breakage as possible. Mr. Baldridge, if transferring in 
spring, saws the combs and cross-sticks loose from the sides, 
turns the hive into the natural position, then strikes against 
the top of the hive with a hammer till the fastenings are 
broken loose, when he lifts the hive, and the combs are all 
free and in convenient shape for rapid work. 

We now need a barrel, set on end, on which Ave place a 
board fifteen to twenty inches square, covered with several 
thicknesses of cloth. Some apiarists think the cloth useless, 
but it serves, I think, to prevent injury to comb, brood, or 
honey. We now place a comb on this cloth, and a frame on 
the comb, and cut out the comb the size of the inside of the 



160 



Fattening Comb in Frames. 



frame, taking pains to save all the worker brood. Now crowd 
the frame over the comb, so that the latter will be in the same 
position that it was when in the old hive ; that is, so the honey 
will be above— the position is not very important — then fasten 
the comb in the frame, by winding about all one or two small 
wires or pieces of wrapping twine. To raise the frame and 
comb before fastening, raise the board beneath till the frame 
is vertical. Set this frame in the new. hive, and proceed with 
the others in the same way till we have all the worker-comb — 
that with small cells — fastened in. To secure the pieces, 
which we shall find abundant at the end, take thin pieces of 
wood, one-half inch wide and a trifle longer than the frame is 
deep, place these in pairs either side-the comb, extending up 
and down, and enough to hold the pieces secure till the bees 
shall fasten them (Fig. 71), and secure the strips by winding 



Fig. 71. 



Fig. 72. 




Transferring Clasp 



Transft rred Cuml>. 

with small wire, just below the frame (Fig. 72), or by use of 
small rubber rings, or else tack them to the frame with small 
tacks. Some bee-keepers use U-shaped pieces of wire or tin 
to hold the comb in the frame. 

Captain Hetherington has invented and practices a very 
neat method of fastening comb into frames. In constructing 
his frames, he bores small holes through the top, side, and 
bottom-bars of his frames, about two inches apart; these 
holes are just large enough to permit the passage of the long 
spines of the hawthorn. Now, in transferring comb, he has 
but to stick these thorns through into the comb to hold it se- 
curely. He can also use all the pieces, and still make a neat 
and secure frame of comb. He finds this arrangement conve- 
nient, too, in strengthening insecure combs. In answer to my 



Transferring without Drumming. 161 

inquiry, this gentleman said it paid well to bore such holes in 
all his frames, which are eleven by sixteen inches, inside 
measure. I discarded such frames because of the liability of 
the comb to fall out. 

Having fastened all the nice worker comb into the frames 
— of course all other comb will be melted into wax — we place 
all the frames containing brood together in the centre of our 
new hive, especially if the colony is weak, or the weather cool, 
and confine the space by use of the division board, adding the 
other frames as the bees may need them. We now place our 
new hive on the stand, pushing it forward so that the bees can 
enter anywhere along the alighting board, and then shake all 
the bees from the box, and any young bees that may have 
clustered on any part of the old hive, or on the floor, or ground, 
where we transferred the comb, immediately in- front. They 
will enter at once and soon be at work, all the busier for hav- 
ing passed "from the old house into the new." In two or 
three days, remove the wires, or strings and sticks, when we 
shall find the combs all fastened and smoothed off, and the 
bees as busily engaged as though their present home had always 
been the seat of their labors. 

In practicing this method, many proceed at once to transfer 
without drumming out the bees. In this case the bees should 
be well smoked, should be driven away from the side of the 
old hive where the combs are being cut loose, by use of the 
smoker, and may be brushed direct from the old combs into 
the new hive. This method will be preferred by the ex- 
perienced, though I think the beginner will find it more easy 
and pleasant to first drum out all the bees before he commences 
to cut out the combs. 

Of course, in transferring from one frame to another, the 
matter is much simplified. In this case, after thoroughly 
smoking the bees, we have but to lift the frames and shake or 
brush the bees into the new hive. For a brush, a chicken or 
turkey wing, a large wing or tail feather from a turkey, goose, 
or peacock, or a twig of pine or bunch of asparagus twigs, 
serves admirably. Now cut out the comb in the best form to 
accommodate the new frames, and fasten as already suggested. 
After the combs are all transferred, shake all remaining bees 
in front of the new hive, which has already been placed on 
the stand previously occupied by the old hive. 

11 



162 Hunting Bee Trees. 

Sometimes bees from trees in the forest are transferred to 
hives and the apiary. 

HUNTING BEE TREES. 

Except for recreation, this is seldom profitable. It is slow 
and uncertain work. The tree when found is not our own, 
and though the owner may consent to our cutting it, he may 
dislike to do so. The bees, when found, are difficult to get 
alive ; it is even more difficult to get the honey in good con- 
dition, and when secured, the honey and bees are often almost 
worthless. 

The principle upon which bees are ' ' lined " is this ; that after 
filling with honey, a bee always takes a direct course — "a bee- 
line" — to its hive. To hunt the bee trees we need a bottle of 
sweetened water, a little honey-comb, unless the bees are 
gathering freely from forest flowers, and a small bottomless box 
with a sliding glass cover, and a small shelf attached to the 
middle of one side on the inside of the box. A shallow tray 
or piece of honey-comb is to be fastened to this shelf. If the 
bees are not found on flowers, we can attract them by burning 
a piece of honey-comb. If on a flower, set the box over them 
after turning a little of the sweetened water in the comb or 
tray on the shelf. It is easy to get them to sipping this sweet. 
Then slide the glass, and when they fly, watch closely and see 
the direction they take. By following this line, we come to 
the bee tree, or more likely to some neighbor's apiary. By 
getting two lines, if the bees are from the same tree, where 
the lines meet, there the tree will be. We should be careful 
not to be led to apiaries, and should look very closely when 
the bees fly, to be sure of the line. Experience makes a person 
quite skillful. When a tree is found, we must use all possible 
ingenuity to get the combs whole if we wish to transfer the 
bees. 



Feeding and Feeder*. 163 

CHAPTER VIII. 
FEEDING AND FEEDERS. 

As already stated, it is only when the worker-bees are stor- 
ing that the queen deposits to the full extent of her capability, 
and that brood-rearing is at its height. In fact, when storing 
ceases, general indolence characterizes the hive. This is pecu- 
liarly true of the German and Italian races of bees. Hence, 
if we would achieve the best success, Ave must keep the workers 
active, even before gathering commences, as also in the in- 
terims of honey secretion by the flowers ; and to do this we 
must feed sparingly before the advent of bloom in the spring, 
and whenever the workers are forced to idleness during any 
part of the season, by the absence of honey-producing flowers. 
For a number of years, I have tried experiments in this direc- 
ction by feeding a portion of my colonies early in the season, 
and in the intervals of honey-gathering, and always with 
marked results in favor of the practice. 

Mr. D. A. Jones has truly said, that if feeding in the 
autumn be deferred too long, till the queen ceases laying, it 
often takes much time to get her to resume, and not infre- 
quently we fail entirely. 

Every apiarist, whether novice or veteran, will receive ample 
reward by practicing stimulative feeding early in the season ; 
then his hive at the dawn of the white clover era will be re- 
dundant with bees, well filled with brood, and in just the trim 
to receive a bountiful harvest of this most delicious nectar. 

Feeding, too, is often necessary to secure sufficient stores for 
winter — for no apiarist, worthy of the name, will suffer his 
faithful, willing subjects to starve, when so little care and 
expense will prevent it. 

HOW MUCH TO FEED. 

If we only wish to stimulate, the amount fed need not be 
great. A half pound a day, or even less, will be all that is 
necessary to encourage the bees to active preparation for the 
good time coming. For information in regard to supplying 
stores for winter see Chapter XVIII. 



164 What and hoiv to Feed. 

WHAT TO FEED. 

For this purpose I would feed granulated sugar, reduced to 
the consistency of honey, or else extracted honey kept over 
from the previous year. The price of the latter will decide 
which is the more profitable. Honey, too, that has been 
drained or forced out of cappings, etc., is good, and only good, 
to feed. To make the syrup, I use one quart of water to two 
of sugar, and heat till the sugar is dissolved. 

Many advise feeding the poorer grades of sugar in spring. 
My own experience makes me question the policy of ever using 
such feed for bees. The feeding of glucose or grape sugar is 
even worse policy. It is bad food for the bees, and its use is 
dangerous to the bee-keeper's reputation, and injurious to our 
brother bee-keepers. Glucose is so coupled with fraud and 
adulteration that he who would ' ' avoid the appearance of 
evil " must let it severely alone. 

In all feeding, unless extracted honey is what we are using, 
we cannot exercise too great care that such feed is not carried 
to the surplus boxes. Only let our customers once taste sugar 
in their comb-honey, and not only is our own reputation gone, 
but the whole fraternity is injured. In case we wish to have 
our combs in the sections filled or capped, we must feed ex- 
tracted honey, which may often be done with great advantage. 

HOW TO FEED. 

The requisites of a good feeder are: Cheapness, a form to 
admit quick feeding, to permit no loss of heat, and so arranged 
that we can feed at all seasons without in any way disturbing 
the bees. The feeder (Fig. 73) which I have used with good 
satisfaction, is a modified division-board, the top-bar of which 
(Fig. 73, b) is two inches wide. From the upper central por- 
tion, beneath the top-bar, a rectangular piece, the size of an 
oyster-can, is replaced with an oyster-can (Fig. 73, g), after 
the top of the latter has been removed. A vertical piece of 
wood (Fig. 73, d) is fitted into the can so as to separate a space 
about one inch square, on one side, from the balance of the 
chamber. This piece does not reach quite to the bottom of 
the can, there being a one-eighth inch space beneath. In the 
top-bar there is an opening (Fig. 73, e) just above the smaller 
space below. In the larger space is a wooden float (Fig. 73,/) 
full of holes. On one side, opposite the larger chamber of the 



Bee-Feeders. 



165 



can, a half-inch piece of the top (Fig. 73, c) is cut off, so that 
the. bees can pass between the can and top-bar on«to the float, 
where they can sip the feed. The feed is turned into the hole 
in the top-bar (Fig. 73, e), and without touching a bee, passes 
down under the vertical strip (Fig. 73, d) and raises the float 
(Fig. 73, /). The can may be tacked to the board at the ends 
near the top. Two or three tacks through the can into the 
vertical piece (Fig. 73, d) will hold the latter firmly in place ; 
or the top-bar may press on the vertical piece so that it cannot 
move. Crowding a narrow piece of woolen cloth between the 
can and board, and nailing a similar strip around the beveled 
edge of the division-board, makes all snug. The objection to 




' Division- Board Feeder. 

Lower part of the face of the can removed, to show float, etc. 

this feeder is that it can not be placed just above the cluster of 
bees. On very cold days in spring the bees can not reach 
their food in any other position. The feeder is placed at the 
end of the brood-chamber, and the top-bar covered by the 
quilt. To feed, we have only to fold the quilt over, when 
with a tea-pot we pour the feed into the hole in the top-bar. 
If a honey-board is used, there must be a hole in this just 
above the hole in the division-board feeder. In either case, 
no bees can escape, the heat is confined, and our division-board 
feeder is but little more expensive than a division-board alone. 
Some apiarists prefer a quart can with finely perforated 
cover. This is filled with liquid, the cover put on, and the 



166 



Bee- Feeder*. 



whole quickly inverted and set above a hole in the cover just 
above the bees. Owing to the pressure of the air, the liquid 
will not descend so rapidly that the bees cannot sip it up. 
The objections to this feeder are, that it is awkward, raises 
the cushions so as to permit the escape of heat, and must be 
removed to receive the feed. 

The Simplicity feeder (Fig. 74), invented by Mr. A. I. 
Root, is shown on its side in the illustration. This is used 
at the entrance, and so is not good for cold weather. As 
the feed is exposed it can only be used at night, when the 
bees are not flying. 

Fig. 74. 




Simplicity Bee-Feeder, 
Fig. 75. 




Shriek's Boss Bee-Feeder. 

The Shuck feeder (Fig. 75) is a modification of the Simplic- 
ity, and a great improvement. This is used at the entrance 
of the hive or by nailing two together so that the sides mark- 
ed D will face each other. We can use it above the bees. 
We then would place the opening D, above a hole in the 
cloth cover, or honey board, turn the feed in at C, and the 
bees would come up at D, pass under the cover, and down 
into the saw-cuts (Fig. 75, A, A) when they would sip the 



Smith Bee-Feeder, 



167 



feed, and then crawl up on the partitions. This feeder works ad- 
mirably, but it is patented, costs too much, and is improved 
in the 

SMITH FEEDER. 

This feeder was sent me by my friend, John Smith, of 
Massachusetts. I have used it two years, and think it^fills 
every requirement of a perfect feeder. 

This feeder (Fig. 76) is larger than the Shuck, and lis 
covered all aver with wire gauze (Fig. 76, a), which is raised 
by the wooden rim, so that the bees can pass readily over the 
partitions, (Fig. 76). The central saw-cuts' (Fig. 76) do 

Fig 76. 




Smith Feeder. 

not reach the end of the feeder, so there is a platform left 
(Fig. 76, b) through which a hole (Fig. 76, c) is made. 
This rests above a hole in the cloth below, and is the door 
through which the bees reach the feed. When in position 
just above the bees, it may be covered by a shingle or piece of 
paste-board, and all by the chaff cushion. To feed, we have 
only to raise the cushion and the paste-board, and turn the 
food through the gauze. No bees can get out, there is no 
disturbance, no danger from the robbers, and we can feed at 
any time, and can feed very rapidly if desired. 

Mr. D. A. Jones and many others with tight bottom boards 
use no feeder, but turn the feed right into the hive. Even 
had I such hives I think I should still prefer to use such a 
feeder as that just described. 

The best time to feed is just at night-fall. In this case the 



16« Winter Feeding. 

feed will be carried away before the next day, and the danger 
to weak colonies from robbing is not so great. 

In feeding during the cold days of April, all should be 
close above the bees to economize the heat. In all feeding, 
care is requisite that we may not spill the feed about the 
apiary, as this may, and very generally will, induce robbing. 

If, through neglect, the bees are found to be destitute of stores 
in mid-winter, it is not best to feed liquid food, but solid food, 
like the Viallon candy or the Good mixture of honey and 
sugar, which will be described under the head of shipping 
queens. Cakes of either of these should be placed on the 
frames above the cluster of bees. 



Bearing Queens. 169 

CHAPTER IX. 

QUEEN REARING. 

Suppose the queen is laying two thousand eggs a day, and 
that the full number of bees is forty thousand, or even more 
— though as the bees are liable to many accidents, and as the 
queen does not always lay to her full capacity, it is quite prob- 
able that this is about an average number — it will be seen 
that each day that a colony is without a queen there is a loss 
equal to about one-twentieth of the working force of the col- 
ony, and this is a compound loss, as the aggregate loss of any 
day is its special loss, augmented by the several losses of the 
previous days. Now, as queens are liable to die, or to become 
impotent, and as the work of increasing colonies demands 
the absence of queens, unless the apiarist has extra ones at 
his command, it is imperative, would .we secure the best re- 
sults, to ever have at hand extra queens. So the young 
apiarist must early learn 

HOW TO KEAE QUEENS. 

As queens may be needed early in the spring, preparations 
looking to the rearing of .queens must commence early. As 
soon as the bees are able to fly regularly, we must see that 
they have a supply of bee-bread. If there is not a supply 
from the past season, and the locality of the bee-keeper does 
not furnish an early supply, then place unbolted flour, that of 
rye or oats is best, in shallow troughs near the hives. It may 
be well to give the whole apiary the benefit of such feeding 
before the flowers yield pollen. Yet, I have found that here 
in Central Michigan, bees can usually gather pollen by the 
first week of April, which I think is as early as they should 
be allowed to fly, and in fact as early as they will fly with 
sufficient regularity to make it pay to feed the meal. I much 
question, after some years of experiment, if it ever pays at 
this place to give the bees a substitute for pollen. If one's 
locality demands this early feeding of meal, the bees can be 
induced to work readily at storing the material by dropping 
a little honey on it* 



170 Securing Que-en-CeUs. 

The best colony in the apiary — or, if there are several col- 
onies of equal merit, one of these — should be stimulated to the 
utmost, by daily feeding, and by increase of brood taken from 
other colonies. As this colony becomes strong, a comb con- 
taining drone cells should be placed in the centre of the brood 
nest. Very soon drone eggs will be layed. I have often had 
drones flying in early May. As soon as the drones commence 
to hatch out, remove the queen and all eggs and uncapped 
brood from some good, strong colony, and replace it with eggs 
or brood just hatched from the colony containing the queen, 
from which it is desired to breed. By having placed one or two 
bright, new, empty combs in the midst of the brood nest of 
this colony, four days beforehand, we shall have in these combs 
just such eggs and newly hatching brood as we desire, with no 
brood that is too old. 

If we have more than one colony whose excellence warrants 
their use to breed from, then these eggs should be taken from 
some other than the one which has produced our drones. 
This will prevent the close in-breeding which would of neces- 
sity occur if both queens and drones were reared in the same 
colony; and which, though regarded as deleterious in the 
breeding of all animals, should be practiced in case one single 
queen is of decided superiority to all others of the apiary. 
The queen and the brood that have been removed may be 
used in making a new colony, in a manner soon to be describ- 
ed under ' ' dividing or increasing the number of colonies. " 
This queenless colony will immediately commence forming 
queen-cells (Fig. 78). Sometimes these are formed to the 
number of fifteen or twenty, and in case of the Syrian and 
Cyprian races, fifty or sixty, and they are started in a full, 
vigorous colony; in fact, under the most favorable conditions. 
Cutting off edges of the comb, or cutting holes in the same 
where there are eggs or larva? just hatched, will almost always 
insure the starting of queen-cells in such places. It will be 
noticed that our queens are started from eggs, or from larvae 
but just hatched, as we have given the bees no other, and so 
are fed the royal pabulum from the first. Thus, we have met 
every possible requisite to secure the most superior queens. 
By removal of the queen we also secure a large number of 
cells, while if we waited for the bees to start the cells prepar- 
atory to natural swarming, in which case we secure the two 



Securing Queen-Celk. 171 

desirable conditions named above, we shall probably fail to se- 
cure so many cells, and may have to wait longer than we can 
afford. 

Even the apiarist who keeps black bees and desires no 
others, or who has only pure Italians, will still find that it 
pays to practice this selection, for, as with the poultry fan- 
cier, or the breeder of our larger domestic animals, the 
apiarist is ever observing some individuals of marked superi- 
ority, . and he who carefully selects such queens to breed 
from, will be the one whose profits will make him rejoice, and 
whose apiary will be worthy of all commendation. As will 
be patent to all, by the above process we exercise a care in 
breeding which is not surpassed by the best breeders of horses 
and cattle, and which no wise apiarist will ever neglect. 

It is often urged, and I think with some truth, that we 
shall secure better queens if we wait for the queen-cells to be 
started naturally by the bees, under the swarming impulse ; and 
by early feeding and adding brood from other colonies we can 
hasten this period ; yet, if we feed to stimulate, whenever the 
bees are not storing, and keep the colony redundant in bees 
of all ages by adding plenty of capped brood from other col- 
onies, we shall find that our queens are little, if any, inferior, 
even if their production is hastened by removal of a queen 
from the hive. If these directions are closely followed, there 
will be little brood for the bees to feed, and the queen-cells 
will not suffer neglect. Mr. Quinby not only advised this 
course, but he recommended starting queen cells in nuclei ; but 
he emphasized the importance of giving but very little brood, 
so nearly all the strength of the nurse bees would be expended 
on the queen-cells. 

After we have removed all the queen-cells, in manner soon 
to be described, we can again supply eggs, or newly-hatched 
larvae — always from those queens which close observation has 
shown to be the most vigorous and prolific in the apiary — and 
thus keep the same queenless colony, or colonies, engaged in 
starting queen-cells till we have all we desire. Yet we must 
not fail to keep this colony strong by the addition of capped 
brood, which we may take from any hive as most convenient. 
We must be cautious that our cells are started from only such 
brood as we take from the choicest queen. I have good 
reason to believe that queen-cells should not be started after 



172 Forming Nuclei. 

the first of September, as I have observed that late queens are 
not only less prolific, but shorter lived. In nature, late queens 
are rarely produced, and if it is true that they are inferior, it 
might be explained in the fact that their ovaries remain so long 
inactive. As queens that are long unmated are utterly worth- 
less, so, too, freshly mated queens long inactive may become 
enfeebled. However, some of our best queen-breeders think 
late queens just as good. Possibly they may be if reared with 
the proper cautions. 

In eight or ten days the cells are capped, and the apiarist is 
ready to form his 

NUCLEI. 

A nucleus is simply a miniature colony of bees — a hive and 
colony on a small scale, for the purpose of rearing and keeping 
queens. We want the queens, but can afford to each nucleus 
only a few bees. The nucleus hive, if we use frames not more 
than one foot square, need be nothing more than an ordinary 
hive, with chamber confined by a division-board to the capacity 
of three frames. If our frames are large, then it may be 
thought best to construct special nucleus hives. These are 
small hives, which need not be more than six inches each way, that 
is, in length, breadth, and thickness, and made to contain from 
four to six frames of corresponding size. These frames are 
filled with comb. I have for several years used the first named 
style of. nucleus hive, and have found it advantageous to have 
a few long hives made, each to contain five chambers, while 
each chamber is entirely separate from the one next to it, is 
five inches wide, and is covered by a separate, close-fitting 
board, and the whole by a common cover. The entrance for 
the two end chambers is at the ends near the same side of the 
hive. The middle chamber has its entrance at the middle of 
the side near which are the end entrances, while the other two 
chambers open on the opposite side, as far apart as is possible. 
The outside might be painted different colors to correspond 
with the divisions, if thought necessary, especially on the side 
with two openings. Yet I have never taken this precaution, 
nor have I been troubled much by losing queens. They have 
almost invariably entered their own apartments when returning 
from their wedding tour. These hives I use to keep queens 
in during the summer. Except the apiarist engages in queen- 



Forming Nndei. 173 

rearing extensively as a business, I doubt the propriety of 
building such special nucleus hives. The usual hives are good 
property to have in the apiary, will soon be needed, and may 
be economically used for all nuclei. .In spring I make use of 
my hives which are prepared for prospective summer use, for 
my nuclei. 

Mr. E. M. Hayhurst, one of our best queen breeders, uses 
the full size Langstroth frame, in full sized hives, for queen- 
rearing, while Mr. Root uses the same frames in small special 
hives which hold three frames. These (Fig. 68) he fastens 
high up on his grape-vine trellises, just back of his other hives, 
which can be used for seats as he works with the nuclei. 

We now go to different hives of the apiary, and take out 
three frames for each nucleus, at least one of which has brood, 
and so on, till there are as many nuclei prepared as we have 
queen-cells to dispose of. The bees should be left adhering to 
the frames of comb, only we must be certain that the queen is not 
among them, as this would take the queen from where she is 
most needed, and would lead to the sure destruction of one 
queen-cell. To be sure of this, never take such frames till 
you have seen the queen, that you may be sure she is left behind. 
It is well to close the nucleus for at least twenty-four hours, so 
that enough bees will surely remain to cover the combs, and 
so prevent the brood from becoming chilled. If any desire 
the nuclei with smaller frames, these frames must of course be 
filled with comb, and then we can shake bees immediately into 
the nuclei, till they shall have sufficient to preserve a proper 
temperature. Such special articles about the apiary are costly 
and inconvenient. I believe that I should use hives even with 
the largest frames for nuclei. L. C. Root who uses the large 
Quinby frame uses the same for his nuclei. In this case we 
should need to give more bees. Twenty-four hours after we have 
formed this nucleus, we are ready to insert the queen cell. 
We may do it sooner, even at once, but always at the risk of 
having the cell destroyed. To insert the queen-cell — for we 
are now to give one to each nucleus, so we can never form more 
nuclei than we have capped queen -cells — we first cut it out, 
using a sharp thin-bladed knife, commencing to cut on either side 
the base of the cell, at least one-half inch distant, for we must not 
in the least compress the cell, then cutting up and out for two 
inches, then across opposite the cell. This leaves the cell 



174 - Inserting Queen-Cells. 

attached to a wedge-shaped piece of comb (Fig. 77), whose 
apex is next to the cell. A similar cut in the middle frame 
of the nucleus, which in case of the regular frames is the one 
containing brood, will furnish an opening to receive the wedge 
containing the cell. The comb should also be cut away be- 
neath (Fig. 77), so that the cell cannot be compressed. Mr. 

Fig. 77. 




Root; advises a circular cut (Fig 78). If two or more fine 
cells' are so close together that separation is impossible, then 
all may be inserted in a nucleus. By close watching afterward 
we may save all the queens. If we have used bright new 
comb as advised above, we can see the queen move in the 
cell if she is ready to come out, by holding it between us and 
the sun, and may uncap such cells, and let the queen run in at 
the entrance of any queenless hive or nucleus at once. In 
selecting combs for queen cells, we should reject any that have 
drone comb. Bees sometimes start queen cells over drone 
larvse. Such cells are smoother than the others, and of course 
are worthless. After all the nuclei have received their cells 
and bees, they have only to be set in a shady place and 
watched to see that sufficient bees remain. Should too many 
leave, give them more by removing the cover and shaking a 
frame loaded with bees over the nucleus ; keep the opening 



To Prevent Undesirable Mating. 



175 



nearly closed, and cover the bees so as to preserve the heat. 
The main caution in this is to be sure not to get any old queen in 
a nucleus. In two or three days the queens will hatch, and in 
a week longer will have become fertilized, and that, too, in 

Fig. 78. 




Queen Cell with Hinged Cap. 

case of the first queens, by selected drones, for as yet there are 
no others in the apiary. I cannot over-estimate the advantage 
of always having extra queens. To secure mating from 
selected drones, later, we must cut all drone-comb from inferior 
colonies, so that they shall rear no drones. If drone larvae are 
in uncapped cells, they may be killed by sprinkling the comb 
with cold water. By giving the jet of water some force, as 
may be easily done by use of a fountain pump, they 
may be washed out, or we may throw them out with the ex- 
tractor, and then use the comb for starters in our sections. It 
is very important that those who rear queens to sell shall have 
no near neighbors who keep bees, and shall keep only very 
superior bees, that undesirable mating may be prevented. If 
drones are flying from undesirable colonies, they can be kept 
from leaving the hive by use of the entrance guards (Fig. 79). 
These are made of the perforated zinc, and while they permit 
the passage of the workers, they restrain the queen and drones. 
By shaking all the bees in front of the hive, we can, by use 



176 Lamp Nursery. 

of these, soon weed out all the drones. With these in front of 
a hive, we can keep the queen from leaving with a swarm. 
Occasionally a queen will crowd through. By keeping empty 
frames and empty cells in the nuclei, the bees may be kept 

Fig. 79. 




Entrance Guard. 

active ; yet with so few bees, one cannot expect very much 
from the nuclei. After cutting all the queen-cells from our 
old hive, we can again insert eggs, as above suggested, and 
obtain another lot of cells, or, if we have a sufficient number, 
we can leave a single queen-cell, and this colony will soon be 
the happy possessor of a queen, and just as nourishing as if the 
even tenor of its ways had not been disturbed. If it is pre- 
ferred, the bees of this colony may be used in forming the 
nuclei, in which case there is no danger of getting a queen in 
any nucleus thus formed or of having the queen-cells destroyed. 
We can thus start seven or eight nuclei very quickly. 

QUEEN LAMP NURSERY. 

This is a tin hive, with two walls enclosing a water tight 
space an inch wide, which, when in use, is filled with water 
through a hole at the top. Each nursery may hold from six 
to eight frames. Some prefer to have special frames for this 
nursery, each of which contains several close chambers. The 
queen cells are cut out and put in these chambers. It is claim- 
ed that with no food the queens will not attack each other, 
and so several cells may be put in each chamber. 

By use of a common kerosene lamp placed under this 
nursery, the temperature must be kept from 80° F. to 100° F. 
By placing the frames with capped queen-cells in this, the 
queens hatch as well as if in a hive or nucleus. If as soon as 
hatched the young queens are introduced into a queenless 
colony or nucleus, as first shown by Mr. Langstroth, they are 
usually well received. Unless one is rearing a great many 
queens, this lamp nursery is not desirable, as we still have to 
use the nucleus to get the young queens fertilized, have to watch 



Clipping Qimn's Wing. 



177* 



carefully to get the young queens as soon as hatched, must 
guard it carefully as moths are apt to get in, and, finally, 
unless great pains are taken, this method will give us inferior 
queens. Mr. W. Z. Hutchinson, one of our best queen breed- 
ers, thinks very highly of the lamp nursery. 

Some bee-keepers use a cage (Fig. 80) with projecting pins 
which are pushed into the comb, so that they hold the cage. A 

Fig. 80. . 

^ ■ !tli ^ sfes 



'' ^Ja""'"""'""' :i '*"""""""""' '< 



cell is put into each of these, and then they may be put into any 
hive. Of course the bees can not destroy the cell, as they can 
not get at it. Dr. Jewell Davis' queen nursery consists of a 
frame filled with such cages which can be hung in any hive. 
I have tried both and prefer this to the lamp nursery. 

SHALL WE CLIP THE QUEEN'S WING? 

In the above operation, as in many other manipulations of 
the hive, we shall often gain sight of the queen, and can, if 
we desire, clip her wing, if she has met the drone; but never before, 
that in no case she shall lead the colony away to parts unknown. 
This does not injure the queen, as some have claimed. Gen- 
eral Adair once stated that such treatment injured'the queen, 
as it cut off some of the air-tubes, which view was approved 
by so excellent a naturalist as Dr. Packard. Yet I am sure 
that this is all a mistake. The air-tube and blood-vessel, as 
we have seen, go to the wings to carry nourishment to these 
members. With the wing goes the necessity of nourishment 
and the need of the tubes. As well say that the amputation 

12 



178 ( Uip the Queen's Wing. 

of the human leg or arm would enfeeble the constitution, a*» 
it would cut oft' the supply of blood. 

Many of our best apiarists have practiced this clipping of 
the queen's wings for years. Yet, these queens show no dimi- 
nution of vigor ; we should suppose they would be even more 
vigorous, as useless organs are always nourished at the expense 
of the organism, and if entirely useless, are seldom long con- 
tinued by nature. The ants set us an example in this matter, ■ 
as they bite the wings off" their queens, after mating has tran- 
spired. They mean that the queen ant shall remain at home, 
nolens miens, and why shall not we require the same of the 
queen bee ? Were it not for the necessity of swarming in na- 
ture, we should doubtless have been anticipated in this matter 
by nature herself. 

Some of our first apiarists think that queens with wings 
clipped are not as acceptable to the other bees. I have now 
had experience for ten years in this practice, and have yet to 
see the first indication that the above is true. Still, if the 
queen essays to go with the swarm, and if the apiarist is not 
at hand, she will sometimes be lost, never regaining the hive ; 
but in this case the bees will be saved, as they will return with- 
out fail. I always mean to be so watchful, keeping my hive* 
shaded, giving ample room, and dividing or increasing, as to 
prevent natural swarming. Sometimes, however, with the 
closest vigilance swarms will issue ; then we may save much 
labor and vexation if we have the wing of the queen clipped. 

Some apiarists clip one primary wing the first year, the sec- 
ondary the second year, the other primary the third, and if 
age of the queen permits, the remaining wing the fourth year. 
Yet, such data, with other matters of interest and importance, 
better be kept on a slate or card, and firmly attached to 
the hive, or else kept in a record opposite the number of the 
hive. The time required to find the queen is sufficient argu- 
ment against the "queen-wing record." It is not an argu- 
ment againsfthe once clipping of the queen's wings, for, in 
the nucleus hives, queens are readily found, and even in full 
colonies this is not very difficult, especially if we heed the dic- 
tates of interest and keep Italians. It will be best, even 
though we have to look up black queens, in full colonies. 
The loss of one good colony, or the vexatious trouble of sep- 
arating two or three swarms which had clustered together, or 



Fertile Workers. 179 

the hiving of a colony perched high up on some towering tree, 
would soon vanquish this argument of time. 

To clip the queen's wing, which we must never do until she 
commences to lay eggs, take hold of her wings with the right 
thumb and index finger — never grasp her body, especially her 
abdomen, as this will be very apt to injure her — raise her off 
the comb, then turn from the bees, place her gently on the left 
hand, and press on her feet with the left thumb sufficiently to 
hold her. Now with the right hand, by use of a small, deli- 
cate pair of scissors, cut off about one-half of one of the front 
or primary wings. This method prevents any movement of 
legs or wings, and is easy and quick. 

Some apiarists complain that queens thus handled often re- 
ceive a foreign scent, and are destroyed by the bees. I have 
clipped hundreds, and never lost one. I believe that the 
above method will not be open to this objection. Should the 
experience of any one prove to the contrary, the drawing on 
of a kid glove, or even the fingers of one, might remove the 
difficulty. 

FERTILE WORKERS. 

We have already described fertile workers. As these can 
only produce unimpregnated eggs, they are, of course, value- 
less, and unless superseded by a queen will soon cause the de- 
struction of the colony. As their presence often prevents the 
acceptance of cells or a queen, by the common workers, they 
are a serious pest. 

The absence of worker brood, and the abundant and care- 
less deposition of eggs — some cells being skipped, while others 
have received several eggs — are pretty sure indications of 
their presence. The condition that favors these pests, is con- 
tinued absence of a queen or means to produce one. They 
seem more common with the Cyprian and Syrian bees. 

To rid a colony of these, unite it with some colony with a 
good queen, after which the colony may be divided if very 
strong. Simply exchanging places of a colony with a fertile 
worker, and a good strong colony, will often cause the destruc- 
tion of the wrong-doer. In this case, brood should be given 
to the colony which had the fertile worker, that they may rear 
a queen ; or better, a queen-cell or queen should be given 
them. Caging a queen in a hive, with a fertile worker, for 



180 Apiary Register. 

thirty-six hours, will almost always cause the bees to accept 
her. Shaking the bees off the frames two rods from the hive, 
will often rid them of the counterfeit queen, after which they 
will receive a queen-cell or a queen. But prevention is best 
of all. We should never have a colony or nucleus without 
either a queen or means to rear one. It is well to keep young 
brood in our nuclei at all times. 

In all manipulation with the bees we need something to 
loosen the frames. Many use a chisel. I have found an iron 
scraper fFig. 81 ), which 1 had made by a blacksmith, very 




convenient, It serves to loosen the frames, draw tacks, and 
scrape off propolis. It wpuld be easy to add the hammer. 

QUEEN REGISTER, OR APIARY REGISTER. 

With more than a half-dozen colonies it is not easy to know 
just the condition of each colony. Something to mark the 
date of each examination, and the condition of the colony at 
that time, is very desirable. Mr. Root furnishes the Queen 
Register (Fig. 82). With this it is very easy to mark the 
date of examination of each hive, and the condition of the 
colony at the time. Mr. Newman furnishes an Apiary Regis- 
ter which serves admirably for the'same purpose. Each hive 
is numbered. A corresponding number in the Register gives 
us all desired facts. We have only to note down at the time 
the condition of each colony and date of examination in the 
Register. 



Queen Register, 



181 



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182 Swarming. 



CHAPTER X. 
INCREASE OF COLONIES. 

No subject will be of more interest to the beginner, than 
that of increasing stocks. He has one or two, he desires as 
many score, or, if very aspiring, as many hundred, and if a 
Jones, a Hetherington, or a Harbison, as many thousand. 
This is a subject, too, that may well engage the thought and 
study of men of no inconsiderable experience. I believe that 
many veterans are not practicing the best methods in obtain- 
ing an increase of stocks. 

Before proceeding to name the ways, or to detail the meth- 
ods, let me state and enforce that it is always safest, and gen- 
erally wisest, especially for the beginner, to be content with 
doubling, or certainly with tripling, his* number of colonies 
each season. Especially let all remember the motto. "Keep 
all colonies strong. " 

There are two ways to increase: The natural, known as 
swarming, already described under natural history of the bee ; 
and the artificial, improperly styled artificial swarming. This 
is also called, and very properly too. "dividing." 

SWAEMING. 

To prevent anxiety and constant watching, and to secure a 
more ecpiable division of bees, and, as I believe, more honey, 
it is better to provide* against swarming entirely by use of 
means which will appear in the sequel. But as this requires 
some experience, and, as often, through neglect, either neces- 
sary or culpable, swarms may issue, the apiarist should be al- 
ways ready with both means and knowledge for immediate ac- 
tion. Of course, necessary hives were all secured the previous 
winter, and will never be wanting. Neglect to provide hives 
before the swarming season is convincing proof that the wrong 
pursuit has been chosen. 

If, as I have advised, the queen has her wing clipped, the 
matter becomes very simple, in fact, so much simplified that 
were there no other argument, this would be sufficient to 
recommend the practice of clipping the queen's wing. Now, 



Hiving Swarms. 183 

if several swarms cluster together, we have not to separate 
them ; they will separate of themselves and return to their old 
homes. To migrate without the queen means death, and life 
is sweet even to bees, and is not to be willingly given up ex- 
cept for home and kindred. Neither has the apiarist to climb 
trees, to secure his bees from bushy trunks, from off the lat- 
tice-work or pickets of his fence, from the very top of a tall, 
slender fragile, fruit tree, or other most inconvenient places. 
Nor will he even be tempted to pay his money for patent non- 
swarming hivers or patent swarm catchers. He knows his 
bees will return to their old quarters, so he is not perturbed 
by the fear of loss or plans to capture the unapproachable. 
It requires no effort ' ' to possess his soul in patience. " 
If he wishes no increase, he steps out, takes the queen 
by the remaining wings, as she emerges from the hive, 
soon after the bees commence their hilarious leave tak- 
ing, puts her in a cage, opens the hive, destroys, or, if he 
wishes to use them, cuts out the queen cells as already describ- 
ed, gives more room — either by adding boxes or taking out 
some of the frames of brood, as they may well be spared, 
places the cage enclosing the queen under the quilt, and leaves 
the bees to return at their pleasure. At night-fall the queen 
is liberated, and very likely the swarming fever is subdued for 
the season. 

If it is desired to hive the absconding swarm with a nucleus 
colony, exchange the places of the old hive containing the 
caged queen, and the nucleus, to which the swarm will then 
come. Remove queen-cells from the old hive as before, give 
some of the combs of brood to the nucleus, which is now a 
full colony, and empty frames, filled with foundation, or if 
you have them empty combs, to both, liberate the queen at 
night and all is well, and the apiarist rejoices in a new colony. 
If the apiarist has neglected to form nuclei, and so has no 
extra queens — and this is a neglect — and wishes to hive his 
swarms separately, he places his caged queen in a hive filled 
with frames of foundation, with which.he replaces the old hive 
till the bees return ; then this new hive, with queen and bees, 
and still better, with a frame or two of brood, honey, etc., in 
the middle, taken from the old hive, is set on a new stand. 
The old hive, with all the queen-cells except the largest and 
finest one rgmoved, is set back, so that the. apiarist has fore- 



184 To Prevent Swarming. 

stalled the issue of after-swarms, except as other queen-cells 
are afterward started, which is not likely to happen. 

If it is found too hard to move the hives, we can place a 
sheet over the old hive, place the caged queen on this, just in 
front of the entrance, which is covered by the sheet, and when 
the bees return and have all clustered about the queen, we 
have only to carry them to the new hive and turn them in 
front of the entrance. The old queen is liberated as before, 
and we are in the way of soon having two good colonies. 
Some apiarists cage the queen and let the bees return, and 
then divide the colony as soon to be described. 

Some extensive apiarists, who desire to prevent increase of 
colonies, cage the old queen, destroy cells, and exchange this 
hive — after taking out three or four frames of brood to 
strengthen nuclei — with one that recently swarmed. Thus a 
colony that recently sent out a swarm, but retained their 
queen, has probably, from the decrease of bees, loss of brood 
and removal of queen-cells, lost the swarming fever, and if we 
give them plenty of room and ventilation, they will accept the 
bees from a new swarm, and spend their future energies in 
storing honey. If the swarming fever is not broken up, we 
shall only have to repeat the operation again in a few days. 

Still another modification, in case no increase of bees but 
rather comb honey is desired, is recommended by such apiar- 
ists as Doolittle, Davis, and others. We cage the queen ten 
days, then destroy the queen-cells in the hive, and liberate 
the queen, and everything is arranged for immense yields of 
comb honey. In this case the queen is idle, but the bees seem 
to have lost not one jot of their energy. Dr. C. C. Miller, 
instead of caging the queen, places her with a nucleus on top 
of the old hive, thus keeping her at work, by exchange of 
frames. After ten days he destroys the queen-cells in the old 
hive and unites the nucleus with it. Here the queen is kept 
at work, the swarming impulse subdued, and a mighty colony 
made ready for business. 

If the apiary is some distance from the house, a simple di- 
aphragm telephone will inform the bee-keeper when swarming 
occurs. The roar of the telephone caused by the. bees strik- 
ing the wire gives the warning. 

Two objections are sometimes raised right here. Suppose 
several swarms issue at once, one of which is a second swarm , 



Hiving Swarms. 185 

which of course has a virgin queen, then all will go off to- 
gether, and our loss is grievous indeed. I answer that second 
swarms are unprofitable and should never be permitted. We 
should be so vigilant that this fate would never befall us. If 
we will not give this close attention without such stimulus, 
then it were well to have this threatening danger hanging 
over us. Again, suppose we are not right at hand when the 
swarm issues, the queen wanders away and possibly is lost. 
Yes, but if undipped the whole colony would go, now it is 
only the queen. Usually the queen gets back. If not, a little 
looking will find her within a ball of friendly workers. At 
night-fall, smoke these bees, and by watching we learn the 
hive which swarmed, as the bees about the queen will repair at 
once to it. 

HIVING SWARMS. 

But in clipping wings, some queens may be omitted, or irom 
taste, or other motive, some bee-keepers may not desire to ' 'de- 
form her royal highness." Then the apiarist must possess the 
means to save the would-be rovers. The means are, good 
hives in readiness, sonie kind of a brush- — a turkey-wing will 
do — and a basket • with open top, which should be at least 
eighteen inches in diameter, and so made that it may be 
attached to the end of a pole, and two poles, one very long 
and the other of medium length. 

Now, let us attend to the method : As soon as the cluster 
commences to form, place the hive in position where we wish 
the colony to remain, leaving the entrance widely open, which 
with our bottom-board only requires that we draw the hive 
forward an inch or more over the alighting-board. As soon 
as the bees are fully clustered, we must manage as best we can 
to empty the whole cluster in front of the hive. As the bees 
are full of honey we need have little fear of stings. Should 
the bees be on a twig that could be sacrificed, this might be 
easily cut oft' with either a knife or saw (Fig. 83), and so care- 
fully as hardly to disturb the bees ; then carry and shake the 
bees in front of the hive, when with joyful hum they will at 
once proceed to enter. If the twig must not be cut, shake them 
all into the basket, and empty before the hive. Should they 
be on a tree trunk, or a fence, then brush them with the wing 
into the basket, and proceed as before. If they are high up 



186 



Hiving tiwarmx. 



on a tree, take the pole and basket, and perhaps a ladder will 
also be necessary. Always let ingenuity have its perfect 
work, not forgetting that the object to be gained is to get just 
as many of the bees as Is possible on the alighting-board in front 



Fig. 83. 



WjShmM 




of the hive. Carelessness as to the quantity might involve the 
loss of the queen, which would be serious. The bees will not re- 
main unless the queen enters the hive. Should a cluster form 
where it is impossible to brush or shake them off, they can be driv- 
en into a basket, or hive, by holding it above them and blowing 
smoke among them. All washes for the hive are more than 



Several Swarms at Once. 187 

useless. It is better that it be clean and pure. With such, if 
they are shaded, .bees will generally be satisfied. But assur- 
ance will be made doubly sure by giving them a frame of 
brood, in all stages of growth, from an old hive. This may 
be inserted before the work of hiving is commenced. Mr. 
Betsinger thinks this will cause them to leave ; but I think he 
will not be sustained by the experience of other apiarists. He 
certainly is not by mine. I never knew but one colony to 
leave uncapped brood ; I have often known them to swarm 
out of an empty hive once or twice, and to be returned, after 
brood had been placed in the hive, when they accepted the 
changed conditions, and went at once to work. This seems 
unreasonable, too, in view of the attachment of bees for their 
nest of brood, as also from analogy. How eager the ant to 
convey her larvae and pupae — the so called eggs — to a place of 
safety, when the nest has been invaded and danger threatens. 
Bees doubtless have the same desire to protect their young, 
and as they cannot carry them away to a new home, they re- 
main to care for them in one that may hot be quite to their 
taste. 

When a colony swarms, the impulse seems to be general, 
and often a half dozen colonies will be on the wing in a trice. 
These will very often, generally in truth, cluster together. 
In this case, to find the queens is well nigh impossible, and 
we can only divide up the bees into suitable colonies, and as 
soon as we find any starting queen cells, give them a queen. 
Of course we may loose every queen but one. In view of this 
trouble, and the expense of the various swarm catchers in 
vogue, I would say clip the queen's wing. 

If it is not desired to increase, the bees may be given to a 
colony which has previously swarmed, after removing from 
the latter all queen-cells, and adding to the room by putting 
on the sections and removing some frames of brood to 
strengthen nuclei. We may even return the bees to their old 
home by taking the same precautionary measures, with a good 
hope that storing and not swarming will engage their at- 
tention in future ; and if we exchange their position with that of 
a nucleus, we shall be still more likely to succeed in over- 
coming the desire to swarm ; though some seasons, " usually 
when honey is being gathered each day for long intervals, but 
not in large quantities, the desire and determination of some 



188 To Prevent Swarming. 

colonies to swarm is implacable. Room, ventilation, changed 
position of hive, each and all will fail. Then we can do no 
better than to gratify the propensity by giving the swarm a 
new home, and make an effort 

TO PREVENT SECOND SWARMS. 

As already stated, the wise apiarist will always have on 
hand extra queens. Now, if he does not desire to form nuclei 
(as already explained), and thus use these queen cells, he will 
at once cut them all out, and destroy them, and give the old 
colony a fertile queen. The method of introduction will be 
given hereafter, though in such cases there is very little danger 
incurred by giving them a queen at once, and by thoroughly 
smoking the bees, sprinkling with sweetened water, and daub- 
ing the new queen with honey, we may be almost sure of suc- 
cess. If desired, the queen-cells can be used in forming nuclei, 
in manner before described. In this wwy we prevent our 
colony from being virtually queenless for at least thirteen 
days, and that in the very height of the honey season, when 
time is money. If extra queens are wanting, Ave have only to 
look carefully through the old hive and remove all but one of 
the queen-cells. A little care will certainly make sure work, 
as after swarming, the old hive is so thinned of bees that only 
carelessness will overlook queen-cells in such a quest. 

TO PREVENT SWARMING. 

As yet we can only partly avert swarming. Mr. Quinby 
ottered a large reward for a perfect non-swarming hive, and 
never had to make the payment. Mr. Hazen attempted it, 
and partially succeeded, by granting much space to the bees, 
so that they should not be impelled to vacate for lack of room. 
The Quinby hive already described, by the large capacity of 
the brood-chamber, and ample opportunity for top and side- 
storing, looks to the same end. Mr. Muth says if we always 
have empty cells in the brood nest, swarming will seldom oc- 
cur. Yet he says, "seldom. " We may safely say that a per- 
fect non-swarming hive or system is not yet before the bee- 
keeping public. The best aids toward non-swarming are 
shade, Ventilation, and roomy hives. But as we shall see in 
the sequel, much room in the brood-chamber, unless we work 
for extracted honey — by which means we may greatly repress 



Artificial Division of Colonies. 189 

the swarming fever — prevents our obtaining honey in a desir- 
able style. If we add sections, unless the connection is quite 
free — in which case the queen is apt to enter them and greatly 
vex us — we must crowd some to send the bees into the sec- 
tions. Such crowding is almost sure to lead to swarming. I 
have, by uncapping the combs of honey in the brood-cham- 
ber, as suggested to me by Mr. M. M. Baldridge — causing the 
honey to run down from the combs — sent the bees crowding to 
the sections, and thus deferred or prevented swarming. Those 
who have frames that can be turned upside down, say that the 
same end may be gained by simple inversion of the frames. 
By placing our sections in the . brood-chamber till the bees 
commence to work on them, and then removing them above, 
or by carrying brood up beside the sections, the bees are gen- 
erally induced to commence working in the sections. The 
brood in this last case should be returned as soon as the bees 
show a willingness to accept the sections, else the comb built 
in the sections will be dark, especially if the brood is in dark 
comb. Mr. B. Walker has his section rack so made that it can 
be lowered, between the brood frames, and then raised above 
as soon as the bees begin to work in the sections. 

It is possible that by extracting freely when storing is very 
rapid, and then by freely feeding the extracted honey in the 
interims of honey secretion, we might prevent swaraiing, se- 
cure very rapid breeding, and still get our honey in sections. 
My experiments, in this direction, have not been as success- 
ful as I had hoped, and I can not recommend the practice, 
though some apiarists claim to have succeeded. 

The keeping of colonies queenless, in order to secure honey 
without increase, as practiced and advised by some even of 
our distinguished apiarists, seems to me a very questionable 
practice. Dr. C. C. Miller's method already described, ac- 
complishes the same object, and keeps all the queens at work 
all the time. I would advise keeping a queen and the workers 
all at work in every hive, if possible, all the time. 

HOW TO MULTIPLY COLONIES WITH THE BEST RESULTS. 

We have already seen the evils of natural swarming, for, 
even though no stock is too mucn reduced in numbers, no 
colony lost by not receiving prompt attention, no Sunday 
quiet disturbed, and no time wasted in anxious watching; yet, 



190 How to Increase Artificially. 

at best, the old colony is queenless for about two weeks; a 
state of things which no apiarist can or should afford. The true 
policy then is to practice artificial swarming, as just described, 
where we save time by cutting the queen's wing, and save loss 
by permitting no colony to remain queenless, or still better to 

DIVIDE. 

This method will secure uniform colonies, will increase our 
number of colonies just to our liking, will save time, and that 
when time is most valuable,- and is in every respect safer and 
more desirable than swarming. I have practiced dividing 
ever since I have kept bees, and never withotrf the best results.. 

HOW TO DIVIDE. 

By the process already described, we have secured a goodly 
number of fine queens, which will be in readiness at the 
needed time. Now, as soon as the white clover harvest is 
well commenced, early in June, we may commence operations. 
If we have but one colony to divide, it is well to wait till they 
become pretty populous, but not till they swarm. Take one 
of our waiting hives, which now holds a nucleus with fertile 
queen, and place the same close along side the colony we wish 
to divide. This must be done on a warm day when the bees 
are active, and better be done while the bees are busy, in the 
middle of the day. Remove the division-board of the new 
hive, and then remove five combs well loaded with brood, and 
of course containing some honey, from the old colony, bees 
and all, to the new hive. Also take the remaining frames and 
shake the bees into the new hive ; only he sure that the queen 
still remains in the old hive. Fill both the hives with empty 
frames — if the frames are filled with empty comb it will be 
still better, if not, it will always pay to give full frames of 
foundation — and return the new hive to its former position. 
The old bees will return to the old colony, while the young 
ones will remain peaceably with the new queen. The old col- 
ony will now contain at least seven frames of brood, honey, 
etc., the old queen, and plenty of bees, so that they will work 
on as though naught had transpired, though perhaps moved 
to a little harder effort, by the added space and five empty 
combs or frames of foundation. These last may be all placed 
at one end, or placed between the others, though not so as to 



Dividing. 191 

greatly divide brood. The new colony will have eight frames 
of brood, comb, etc., three from the nucleus and five from the 
old colony, a young fertile queen, plenty of bees, thoseof the pre- 
vious nucleus and the young bees from the old colony, and will 
work with a surprising vigor, often even eclipsing the old colony. 

If the apiarist has several colonies, it is better to make the 
new colony from several old colonies, as follows : Take one 
frame of brood-comb from each of six old colonies, or two 
from each of three, and carry them, bees and all, and place 
with the nucleus. Be sure that no queen is removed. Fill all 
the hives with empty combs, or foundation, as before. In 
this way we increase without in the least disturbing any of 
the colonies, and may add a colony every day or two, or per- 
haps several, depending on the size of our apiary, and can 
thus almost always, so my experience says, prevent swarming. 

By taking only brood that is all capped, we can safely add 
one or two frames to each nucleus every week, without adding- 
any bees, as there would be no danger of loss by chilling the 
brood. In this way, as we remove no bees, we have to spend 
no time in looking for the queen, and may build up our nuclei 
into full stocks, and keep back the swarming impulse with 
great facility. 

These are unquestionably the best methods to divide, and 
so I will not complicate the subject by detailing others. The 
only objection that can be urged against them, and even this 
does not apply to the last, is that we must seek out the queen 
in each hive, or at least be sure that we do not remove her, 
though this is by no means so tedious if we have Italians or 
other races of yellow bees, as of course we all will. I might 
give other methods which would render unnecessary this cau- 
tion, but they are to my mind inferior, and not to be recom- 
mended. If we proceed as above described, the bees will sel- 
dom prepare to swarm at all, and if they do they will be dis- 
covered in the act, by such frequent examinations, and the 
work may be cut short by at once dividing such colonies, as 
first explained, and destroying their queen-cells, or, if desired, 
using them for forming new nuclei. 



192 Superiority of Italian*. 

CHAPTER XI. 
ITALIANS AND ITALIANIZING. 

The history and description of Italians have already been 
considered, so it only remains to discuss the subject in a prac- 
tical light. 

The superiority of the Italians seems no longer a mooted 
question. I now know of no one among the able apiarists in 
our country who takes the ground that a thorough balancing 
of qualities will make as favorable a showing for the German 
as for the Italian bees, though I think that the late Baron of 
Berlepsch held to this view. 

I think I am capable of acting as judge on this subject. I 
have never sold a dozen queens in my life, and so have not 
been unconsciously influenced by self-interest. In fact, I have 
never had, if I except two years, any direct interest in bee* 
at all, and all my work and experiments had only the promo- 
tion and spread of truth as the ultimatum. Again, I have 
kept both blacks and Italians side by side and carefully 
observed and noted results during eight years of my expe- 
rience. I have carefully collected data as to increase of 
brood, rapidity of storing, early and late habits in the 
day and season, kinds of Mowers visited, amiability, etc., 
and I believe that to say that they are not superior to black 
bees, is like saying that a Duchess among short-horns is in no 
wise superior to the lean, bony kine of Texas; or that our 
Essex and Berkshire swine are no whit better than the cadav- 
erous, kink bleeds, with infinite noses, that, happily, are now 
so rare among us. The Italians are /ar superior to the Ger- 
man bees in many respects, and though I am acquainted with 
all the works on apiculture printed in our language, and have 
an extensive acquaintance with the leading apiarists of our 
country from Maine to California, yet I know not a man that 
has had opportunity to form a correct judgment, that does not 
give strong preference to the Italians. The black bees are in 
wine respects superior to the Italians, and if a bee-keeper's 
methods cause him to give these points undue importance, in 



Superiority of Italians. 193 

forming his judgments, then his conclusions may be wrong. 
Faulty management, too, may lead to wrong conclusions. 

The Italians certainly possess the following points of supe- 
riority : 

First. They possess longer tongues, and so can gather from 
flowers which are useless to the black bee. This point has al- 
ready been sufficiently considered. How much value hangs 
upon this structural peculiarity I am unable to state. I have 
frequently seen Italians working on red clover. I never saw 
a black bee thus employed. It is easy to see that this might 
be, at certain times and certain seasons, a very material aid. 
How much of the superior storing qualities of the Italians is 
due to this lengthened ligula, I am unable to say. Mr. J. H. 
Martin has a very ingenious tongue measurer by which the 
length of the tongues of bees in the several hives can be quick- 
ly and accurately compared. I have made a very simple and 
convenient instrument to accomplish the same end ; two rec- 
tangular pieces, one of glass and the other of wire gauze, are 
so set in a frame that the glass inclines to the gauze. At one 
end they touch ; at the other they are separated three-fourths 
of an inch. Honey is spread on the glass and all set in the 
hive. The bees can only sip the honey through the gauze. 
The bees that clean the glass farthest from the end where it 
touches the gauze have the longest tongues. This gives only 
relative lengths, while Mr. Martin's register tells the absolute 
length. 

Second. They are more active, and with the same oppor- 
tunities will collect a good deal more honey. This is a matter 
of observation, which I have tested over and over again. Yet 
I will give the figures of another : Mr. Doolittle secured from 
two colonies, 309 lbs. and 301 lbs. respectively, of comb honey, 
during the past season. These surprising figures, the best he 
could give, were from his best Italian stocks. Similar testi- 
mony comes from Klein and Dzierzon over the sea, and from 
hosts of our own apiarists. 

Third. They work earlier and later. This is not only 
true of the day, but of the season. On cool days in spring, 
I have seen the dandelions swarming with Italians, while not 
a black bee was to be seen. On May 7th, 1877, I walked 
less than half a mile, and counted sixty-eight bees gathering 
from dandelions, yet only two were black bees. This might 

13 



194 Superiority of Italians. 

be considered an undesirable feature, as tending to spring 
dwindling. Yet, with proper management, to be described 
while considering the subject of wintering, I think this no ob- 
jection, but a great advantage. 

Fourth. They are far better to protect their hives against 
robbers. Robbers that attempt to plunder Italians of their 
hard-earned stores soon find that they have ' ' dared to beard 
the lion in his den. " This is so patent that even the advo- 
cates of black bees are ready to concede it. 

Fifth. They are almost proof against the ravages of the 
bee-moth's larvse. This is also universally conceded. This is 
no very great advantage, as no respectable bee-keeper would 
dread moths, even with the black bees. 

Sixth. The queens are decidedly more prolific. This is 
probably in part due to the greater and more constant activity 
of the workers. This is observable at all seasons, but more 
especially when building up in the spring. No one who will 
take the pains to note the increase of brood will long remain 
in doubt on this point. 

Seventh. They are less apt to breed in winter, when it is 
desirable to have the bees very quiet. 

Eighth. The queen is more readily found, which is a great 
advantage. In the various manipulations of the apiary, it is 
frequently desirable to find the queen. In full colonies I 
would rather find three Italian queens than one black one. 
Where time is money, this becomes a matter of much import- 
ance. 

Ninth. The bees are more disposed to adhere to the comb 
while being handled, which some might regard a doubtful 
compliment though I consider it a desirable quality. 

Tenth. They are, in my judgment, less liable to rob other 
bees. They will find honey when the blacks gather none, and 
the time for robbing is when there is no gathering. This may 
explain the above peculiarity. 

Eleventh. In my estimation, a sufficient ground for pref- 
erence, did it stand alone, is that the Italian bees are far more 
amiable. Years ago I got rid of my black bees, because they 
were so cross. A few years later, I got two or three colonies, 
that my students might see the difference, but to my regret ; 
for, as we removed the honey in the autumn, they seemed 
perfectly furious, like demons, seeking whom they might de- 



Valuable Poi)its in Black Bees. 195 

vour, and this, too, despite the smoker, while the far more 
numerous Italians were safely handled, even without smoke. 
The experiment at least satisfied a large class of students as to 
superiority. Mr. Quinby speaks in his book of their being 
cross, and Captain Hetherington tells me that if not much 
handled they are more cross than the blacks. From my own 
experience, I cannot understand this. Hybrids are even more 
cross than are the pure black bees, but otherwise are nearly 
as desirable as the pure Italians. 

I have kept these two races side by side for years ; I have 
studied them most carefully, and I feel sure that none of the 
above eleven points of excellence are too strongly stated. 

The black bees will go into close boxes more readily than 
Italians, but if we use the sections for comb honey and on other 
grounds we can not afford to do otherwise, we shall find, with 
the more ample connection between the brood-chamber and 
sections, that even here, as Mr. Doolittle and many others 
have shown, the Italians still give the best returns. 

There is no question but that the German bees produce 
nicer, whiter comb honey than do the Italians. This superi- 
ority is due to thicker cappings. This, however, is too nice a 
point to count very greatly in their favor. The comb honey 
produced by Italians does not have to go begging in the mar- 
kets. 

I have some reason to think that the blacks are more 
hardy, and have found many apiarists who agree with me. 
Yet, others of wide experience think that there is no differ- 
ence, while still others think that the Italians are more hardy. 

The Italian bees are said to dwindle worse in spring, which, 
as they are more active, is quite probable. As I have never 
had a case of serious spring dwindling, I cannot speak from 
experience. If the bee-keeper prevents early spring flying, 
which is very detrimental to either black or Italian bees, this 
point will have no weight, even if well taken. 

The advantages of the Italians, which have been considered 
thus fully, are more than sufficient to warrant the exclusion 
of the German bees from the apiary. Truly, no one needs to 
be urged to a course that adds to the ease, profit, and agree* 
ableness of his vocation. 



196 Introducing Queens. 

THE NEW RACES OF BEES. 

All of the valuable characteristics of the Italian bees are 
exaggerated in the Syrian bees, except that of amiability. 
This feature, irritability, would not be an objection to an ex- 
perienced bee-keeper. I believe, after two years' experience 
with the Syrians, that they will soon be as pleasant to manage 
and handle as are the Italians. They are not subdued with 
smoke, and require careful handling. They are astonishingly 
prolific, and keep up the brood rearing whether there are nec- 
tar-secreting flowers or not. For queen rearing they are 
super-excellejit. The comb honey of these bees is said to be 
quite inferior, because of thin caps; a point I have failed to 
observe. The Cyprian bees are in no way superior to the 
Syrians, so far as I can learn, though I have had no experi- 
ence with them, and they are considerably more irritable. 

WHAT BEES SHALL WE KEEP? 

The beginner certainly better keep Italians. If the Syr- 
ians maintain their apparent superiority, I would certainly ad- 
vise the experienced bee-keeper to give them a trial. 

HOW TO ITALIANIZE. 

From what has been already explained regarding the natural 
history of bees, it will be seen that all we have to do to change 
our bees is to change our queens. Hence, to Italianize a col- 
ony, we have only to procure and introduce an Italian queen. 
The same of course is true of Cyprianizing or Syrianizing. 
If we change the queen we soon change the bees. 

HOW TO INTRODUCE A QUEEN. 

In dividing colonies, where we give our queen to a colony 
composed wholly of young bees, it is safe and easy to intro- 
duce a queen in the manner explained in the section on arti- 
ficial swarming. To introduce a queen to a colony composed 
of old bees requires more care. First, we should seek out the 
old queen and destroy her, then cage our Italian queen in a 
wire cage (Fig. 84), which may be made by winding a -strip 
of wire-cloth, three and one-half inches wide, and containing 
fifteen to twenty meshes to the inch, about the finger. Let it 
lap each way one-half inch, then cut it off. Ravel out the 



Introducing Queens. 197 

half inch hn each side, and weave in the ends of the wires, 
forming a tube the size of the finger. We now have only to 
put the queen in the tube and pinch the ends together, and 
the queen is caged. The cage containing the queen should be 



Fig. 




Queen Cage. ■ , 

inserted between two adjacent combs containing . honey, each 
of which will touch it. The queen can thus sip honey as she 
needs it. If we fear the queen may not be able to sip the 
honey through the meshes of the wire, we may dip a piece of 
clean sponge in "honey and insert it in the upper end of the 
cage before we compress this end. This will furnish the queen 
with the needed food. In forty-eight hours we again open the 
hive, after a thorough smoking, and also the cage, which is 
easily done by pressing the upper end at right angles to the di- 
rection of the pressure when we closed it. In doing this do 
not remove the cage. Now keep watch, and if, as the bees en- 
ter the cage or as the queen emerges, the bees attack her, secure 
her immediately and re-cage her for another forty-eight hours. 
I have introduced many queens in this manner, and have very 
rarely been unsuccessful. At such times if the queen is not 
well received by the bees, then she is "balled," as it is termed. 
By the expression "balling the queen," we mean that the work- 
er bees press about her in a compact cluster, so as to form a 
real live ball as large as a good sized peach. Here the queen 
is held till she dies. By smoking the ball or throwing it into 
water the queen may be speedily liberated. Mr. Dadant stops 
the cage with a plug of wood (Fig. 84), and when he goes to 
liberate the queen replaces the wooden stopple with one of 
comb, and leaves the bees to liberate the queen by eating 
out the comb. Mr. Betsinger uses a larger cage, open at one 
end, which is pressed against the comb till the mouth of the 
cage reaches the middle of it. If I understand him, the 
queen is thus held by cage and comb till the bees liberate her. 



198 



Introducing Queen*. 



If, upon liberating the queen, we find that the b^es "ball" 
her, that is, gather so closely about her as to form a compact 
cluster, we must at once smoke the bees oft* and re-cage the 
queen, else they will hold her a prisoner till .she is dead. 

The Peet cage (Fig. 85), which is not only an introducing 
but a shipping cage, is a most valuable invention. The back 



Fig 




Queen Cage. 

of the cage is tin, and as seen in the figure may be drawn out, 
which leaves the back of the cage entirely open. The tin 
points, which turn easily, are turned at right angles to the cage 
as shown in the figure. The cage is pressed close up to a 
smooth piece of comb containing both brood and honey, where 
it is held by the tin points, and then the tin back is with- 
drawn. The bees will soon liberate the queen and almost al- 
ways accept her. I have had such admirable success with 
this cage that I heartily recommend it. The food in the cage 
will keep the queen, even though the bees do not feed her 
through the wire, and there is no honey in the comb. 

Judge Andrews, of Texas, states a valuable point in this con- 
nection, which, though I have not tried, I am glad to give. 
The reputation of Judge Andrews and the value of the sug- 
gestion alike warrant it. He says queens will be accepted 
just as quickly when caged in a hive with a colony of bees, 
even though the old queen is still at large in the hive. Such 
caged queens, says the Judge, after two or three days, are 



Introducing Queens. 199 

just as satisfactory to the worker bees as though " to the man- 
or born, " and even more safe when liberated — of course the 
old queen is first removed — as the bees start no queen cells, if 
the old queen has remained in the hive until this time, and 
the presence of queen cells agitates the newly liberated queen, 
which is pretty sure to cause her destruction. Here then we 
may cage and keep our queens after they have been fertilized 
in the nuclei, and at any time can take one of these, or the old 
queen, at pleasure, to use elsewhere, though if the latter, we 
must liberate one of the caged queens, which, says the Judge, 
"will always be welcomed by the bees." 

When bees are not storing, especially if robbers are abund- 
ant, it is more difficult to succeed, and at such times the ut- 
most caution will occasionally fail of success if the bees are 
not all young. Sometimes a queen may be safely introduced 
into a queenless colony by simply shaking the bees all down in 
front of the hive, and as they pass in, letting the queen run in 
with them. If the queen to be introduced is in a nucleus, we 
can almost always introduce her safely by taking the frame 
containing the queen, bees and all, and setting it in the middle 
of the hive containing the queenless colony. 

A young queen, just emerging from a cell, can almost al- 
ways be safely given at once to the colony, after destroying 
the old queen. 

A queen cell is usually received with favor. If we use a 
cell we must be careful to destroy all other queen-cells that 
may be formed ; and if the one we supply is destroyed, wait 
twenty-four hours and introduce another. If we wait seven 
or eight days, and then destroy all their queen-cells, the bees 
are sure to accept a cell. But to save time I should always 
introduce a queen. 

If we are to intrt)duce an imported queen, or one of very 
great value, we might make a new colony, all of young bees. 
We simply place two or three combs of rapidly hatching 
brood in a hive, and the queen on them. By night-fall there 
will be a goodly cluster of young bees. Unless the day and 
night are warm the hive must be set in a warm room. The 
entrance should be closed in any case. This keeps the queen 
from leaving and robber bees from doing harm. As the num- 
ber of bees warrant it, more brood may be added, and by adding 
capped brood alone we may very soon have a full sized colony. 



200 



Comb Stands. 



By having a colony thus Italianized in the fall, we may 
commence the next spring, and, as described in the section 
explaining the formation of artificial swarms, we may control 
our rearing of drones, queens, and all, and ere another autumn 
have only the beautiful, pure, amiable, and active Italians. 
I have <?lone this several times, and with the most perfect sat- 
isfaction. I think by making this change in blood, we add 
certainly two dollars to the value of each colony, and I know 
of no other way to make money so easily and pleasantly. 

valentine's comb stand. 

In the work of finding queens, and in other manipulations, 
it is often desirable to take out frames. If these are set down 
beside the hive they are liable to injury. J. M. Valentine 
has given us a valuable "comb stand" (Fig. 86). As will 




Valentine's Comb Stand. 

be seen this holds two frames. The platform is handy to re- 
ceive tools, and the drawer serves well to hold scissors, knife, 
queen cages, etc. 

Mr. M. G. Young has invented an "Easel" (Fig. 87) for 



Mow to get Queens. 



201 



the same purpose. This will hold several combs. Of course 
it will not do to leave combs thus exposed, except when the 

Fig. 87. 




Young's Easel. 

bees are busy in the field ; or we will have great trouble with 
robber bees. 

TO GET OUR ITALIAN QUEENS. 

At present the novice, and probably the honey producer 
who prefers to purchase rather- than rear his queens, better 
send to some reliable, experienced breeder, and procure ' ' dol- 
lar queens." Unless these are impurely mated, which will 
rarely happen with first-class breeders, they are- just as 
good as ' ' tested queens. " Testing only refers to the matter 
of pure mating. 

I have felt, and I still feel, that this cheap queen traffic tends 
to haste, not care, in breeding, and that with "dollar 'queens" 
ruling in the market, there is lack of inducement for that 
careful, painstaking labor that is absolutely requisite to give 
us the best race of bees. It is justly claimed, ^however, in 
favor of the "Dollar Queen" business, that it has hastened the 
spread of Italian bees, gives those who rather buy than rear 



202 Shipping Queens. 

their queens a cheap market in which to purchase, and, best 
of all, weeds out of the business all but the most skillful, 
cautious, and honest breeders. Only skillful men can make 
it pay. Only cautious, honest men can find a market for 
their stock. We know that men are making a handsome 
profit in the business and at the same time are giving excel- 
lent satisfaction. This is the best argument in favor of any 
business. I repeat, then, that the beginner better purchase 
"dollar queens" of some reliable breeder — one who has made 
queen rearing a success for years, and given general satisfaction. 

I have feared that this "cheap queen" traffic would crush 
the hard effort, requiring study, time, money, and the most 
cautious experiment and observation, necessary to give us a 
very superior race of bees. There is reason to hope now that 
it will, at most, only delay it. Enterprising apiarists see in 
this the greatest promise for improved apiculture, and already 
are moving forward. Enterprising bee-keepers will purchase 
and pay well for the bee of the future that gives sure evidence 
of superior excellence. One thing is certain, " dollar queens " 
are in the market, and are in demand ; so, whether the busi- 
ness tends to our good or evil, as rational men we must accept 
the situation and make the most of things as they exist. 

Let me urge, however, upon the progressive apiarist, that 
there is no possible doubt but that the bees of the future will 
be immensely superior to those of to-day. Man can and will 
advance here as he' has in breeding all other stock. If the 
obstacles in the way are greater because of the peculiar nat- 
ural history of the bee, then the triumph, when it comes, will 
be greater, and the success more praiseworthy. 

TO SHIP QUEENS. 

For shipping queens the character of the shipping cage and 
of the food are of first importance. Nothing serves better 
for a cage than Peet's cage (Fig. 85), already mentioned. 
As will be seen the bees are covered with a double screen — 
one of wire, the other (removed in the figure) of wood. 
These are separated one-fourth of an inch. The food should 
never be honey. This may daub the queen and cause her 
death. If the food consists of hard candy, then the cage 
must contain a bottle of water, the cork of which has a small 
opening, through which is passed a small cotton string. 



Food for Shipping. 



203 



These bottles are not satisfactory, and so our queen breeders 
have discovered a moist candy which makes them unnecessary. 

VIALLON CANDY. 

This candy, suggested by Paul L. Viallon, keeps moist for 
a week or more. To make it, we take twelve ounces of powder- 
ed white sugar, four ounces of brown sugar, one tablespoonful of 
flour, and two of honey. Stir these well, adding enough 
water to make a stiff batter, then boil for a moment, and 
longer if we added too much water, after which we stir till it 
begins to thicken, when we turn it into the cage. The cage 
(Fig. 88) should be long enough to receive two half-inch au- 



Fig. 




Peet Cage. 

ger holes in the wood and at the end, which should be cut 
half way through the block, so near the chamber as to cut 
away an opening large enough for the bees to get at the food. 
The candy should be turned into these holes. The wire gauze 
should cover these holes, as well as the chamber for the bees. 

THE GOOD CANDY. 

This consists of granulated sugar moistened with extracted 
honey. We are indebted to Mr. I. R. Good for this cheap 
and excellent food. The only caution required is to get it 
just moist enough to keep it soft and not so moist that it will 
drip at all. The end of the cage (Fig. 88) to contain 
this should extend one and one-half inches beyond the cham- 
ber made for the bees. Through this end, lengthwise not 
crosswise, bore one or two three-eighth inch holes. Fill these 
with the candy, and insert a wooden cork into the holes at the 
end of the cage. The fault with this candy is that it crum- 
bles, as the honey is sipped from it, or evaporates. With the 



204 Mailing Queens. 

holes as suggested above, we find this is obviated. With this 
candy I have had queens on the road two Aveeks without the 
loss of a single bee. 

PREPARATIONS TO SHIP. 

The tin on the back of the cage has one corner cut off a 
little, so if we draw it back slightly we make a small opening. 
We now hold the cage in the left hand with the thumb over 
the hole, to keep the bees in, and with the right hand pick up the 
queen and eight or ten worker bees — bright ones, neither very 
young nor old — by grasping the wings with thumb and index 
finger, and put them into the cage. Close the opening by 
pushing in the tin slide, nail on the wooden screen (Fig. 85) 
and our queen is ready to mail. In this work we can make 
good use of the comb stand (Fig. 86). 

We should send queens by mail. They go as safely as by 
express and it costs but a cent or two. No one should presume, 
on any account, to send a queen by mail, unless the queen-cage is 
covered by this double screen and is provisioned as directed above, 
instead oj with honey. If shippers neglect these precautions, 
so that the mails become daubed, or the mail agents stung, we 
shall again lose the privilege of sending queens by mail. 
An order excluding bees from the mails will in the future be 
beyond recall, hence any carelessness that endangers this 
privilege will be virtually criminal. 

TO MOVE COLONIES. 

Should we desire to purchase Italians or other colonies, the 
only requisites to safe transport are : A wire-cloth cover for 
ventilation, secure fastening of the frames so they cannot 
possibly move, and combs so old that they shall not break 
down and fall out. If the colony is very large, and the weath- 
er very warm, there should be an opening in the bottom of 
the hive covered with gauze, or the bees may smother. The 
entrance ought to be covered with gauze. If combs are built from 
wired foundation they will not break down even if new. Bees 
thus shut up should never be left where the sun can shine on 
them. In the cars the frames should extend lengthwise of 
the cars. I would never advise moving bees in winter, though 
it has often been done with entire safety. I should wish the 
bees to have a flight very soon after such disturbance. 



The Honey Extractor. 205 

CHAPTER XII. 
EXTRACTING, AND THE EXTRACTOR. 

The brood-chamber is often so filled with honey that the 
queen has no room to lay her eggs, especially if there is any 
neglect to give other room for storing. Honey in brood- 
combs is unsalable, because the combs are dark, and the size 
undesirable. Comb is very valuable, and should never be 
taken from the bees, except when desired to render the honey 
more marketable. Hence, the apiarist finds a very efficient 
auxiliary in the 

HONEY EXTRACTOR . 

No doubt some have expected and claimed too much for 
this machine. It is equally true that some have blundered 
quite as seriously in an opposite direction. For, since Mr. 
Langstroth gave the movable frame to the world, the apiarist 
has not been so deeply indebted to any inventor as to him who 
gave us the Mel Extractor, Herr von Hruschka, of Germany. 
Even if there was no sale for extracted honey — aye, more, 
even if it must be thrown away, which will never be necessa- 
ry, as it may always be fed to the bees with profit, even then 
I would pronounce the extractor an invaluable aid to every 
bee-keeper. 

The principle which makes this machine effective is that of 
centrifugal force, and it was suggested to Major von Hruschka 
by noticing that a piece of comb which was twirled by his boy 
at the end of a string, was emptied of its honey. Herr von 
Hruschka's machine was essentially like those now so common, 
though in lightness and convenience there has been a marked 
improvement. His machine consisted of a wooden tub, with 
a vertical axle in the centre, which revolved in a socket fast- 
ened to the bottom of the vessel, while from the top ©f the 
tub fastenings extended to the axle, which projected^ for a 
distance above. The axle was thus held exactly in the center 
of the tub. Attached to the axle was a frame or rack to hold 
the comb, whose outer face rested against a wire-cloth. The 
axje with its attached frame, which latter held the uncapped 
Comb, was made to revolve by rapidly unwinding a string 



206 



Honey Extractor. 



which had been previously wound about the top of the axle, 
after the manner of top-spinning. Replace the wooden tub 
with one of tin, and the string with gearing, and it will 
be seen that we have essentially the neat extractor of to-day. 
The machine is of foreign invention, is not covered by a 
patent, and so may be made by any one who desires to do so. 



Fig. 89. 



Fig. 90. 





Fig. 91. 




The first American honey extractor was that made by Mr. 
Peabody. This was without gearing, and served admirably in 
its day, but has since been greatly improved, till now we have 
several machines, each with its special excellencies, and all effect- 
ing the desired results with more or less ease and rapidity. 

DESIRABLE POINTS IN AN EXTRACTOR. 

The machine (Fig. 89) should be as light as is consistent 
with strength. It is desirable that the can be made of tin, as 



Honey Extractor. 



207 



it will be neater and more easily kept sweet and clean. The 
can should be stationary, so that only a light frame (Fig. 90) 
shall revolve with the comb. In some of the extractors (Fig. 
90) the walls of this frame incline. This keeps the frames 
from falling in when the machine is at rest, but varies the 
centrifugal force at the top and bottom of the comb, which is 
urged as an objection. Of course this difference in force is 
very slight. 

It is desirable that the machine should run with gearing, 
not only for ease, but also to insure or allow an even motion, 
so that we need not throw even drone larvae from the brood- 
cells, while in the act of extracting. In some machines the 
crank runs in a horizontal plane (Fig. 89), in others in a ver- 
tical plane(Fig. 91). Both styles have their friends. I think 
there is little choice between them. The arrangement for 
exit of the honey should permit a speedy and perfect shut-off. 
A molasses gate is excellent to serve for a faucet. I also pre- 
fer that the can should hold 30 or 40 pounds of honey before 
it would be necessary to let the honey flow from it. 

In case of small frames, like the ones I have described as 
most desirable to my mind, I should prefer that the comb bas- 
ket might hold four frames. The comb basket should be 
placed so low in the can that no honey will be thrown over 
the top to daub the person using the extractor. I think that 

Fig. 92. 





a wire attachment with a tin bottom (Fig. 92, a, b) and made 
to hook on to the comb basket, which will hold pieces of comb 
not in frames, is a desirable addition to an extractor. 

The can, if metal, which is lighter and to be preferred to wood, 
as it does not sour nor absorb the honey, should be of tin, so 



208 Use of the Extractor. 

as not to rust. A cover (Fig. 91) to protect the honey from 
dust, when not in use, is w *very desirable. The cloth cover, 
gathered around the edge by a rubber, as made by Mr, A. I. 
Boot, is excellent for this purpose. As no capped honey can 
be extracted, it is necessary to uncap it, which is done by 
shaving off the thin caps. To do this, nothing is better than 

Fig. 93. 




the Bingham & Hetherington honey knife (Fig. 93). After 
a thorough trial of this knife, here at the College, we pro- 
nounce it decidedly superior to any other that we have used, 
though we have several of the principal knives made in the 
United States. This knife is peculiar for its thick blade which 

Fig. 94. 



%| 




is beveled to the edge. It is, perhaps, sometimes desirable to 
have a curved point (Fig. 94), though this is not at all essen- 
tial. 

USE OF THE EXTRACTOR. 

Although some of our most experienced apiarists say nay, 
it is nevertheless a fact, that the queen often remains idle, or 
extrudes her eggs only to be lost, simply because there are no 
empty cells. The honey yield is so great that the workers 
occupy every available space, and sometimes even they become 
unwilling idlers, simply because of necessity. Seldom a year 
has passed but that I have noticed some of my most prolific 
queens thus checked in duty. It is probable that just the 
proper arrangement and best management of frames for sur- 
plus would make such occasions rare; yet, I have seen the 
brood-chamber in two-story hives, with common frames above 
— the very best arrangement to promote storing above the 
brood-chamber — so crowded as to force the queen either to 
idleness or to egg-laying in the upper frames. This fact, as 



When to use the Extracts. 209 

also the redundant brood, and excessive storing that follows 
upon extracting from the brood-chamber, makes me emphatic 
upon this point, notwithstanding the fact that some men of 
wide experience and great intelligence think me wrong. 

The extractor also enables the apiarist to secure honey — 
extracted honey — in poor seasons, when he could get very 
little, if any, in sections or boxes. By use of the extractor 
we can avoid swarming, and thus work for honey instead of 
increase of colonies. 

By use of the extractor, at any time or season, the apiarist 
can secure nearly if not quite double the amount of honey 
that he could get in combs. It requires much more skill to 
succeed in procuring comb honey than is required to secure 
extracted. The beginner will usually succeed far better if he 
work for extracted honey. 

The extractor enables us to remove uncapped honey in the 
fall, which, if left in the hive, may cause disease and death. 

By use of the extractor, too, we can throw the honey from 
our surplus brood-combs in the fall, and thus have a salable 
article, and have the empty combs, which are invaluable for 
use the next spring. 

If the revolving racks of the extractor have a wire basket 
attachment (Fig. 92) as I have suggested, the uncapped sec- 
tions can be emptied in the fall, if desired, and pieces of drone- 
comb cut from the brood-chamber, which are so admirable for 
starters in the sections, can be emptied of their honey at any 
season. 

By use of the extractor, we can furnish, at one-half the 
price we ask for comb-honey, an article which is equal, if not 
superior, to the best comb-honey, and which, were it not for 
appearance alone, would soon drive the latter from the market. 

Indeed, extracted honey is gaining so rapidly in public favor 
that even now its production is far in excess of that of comb- 
honey. 

WHEN TO USE THE EXTRACTOR. 

If extracted honey can be sold for fifteen cents, or even 
for ten or twelve, the extractor may be used profitably the sum- 
mer through ; otherwise use it sufficiently often that there may 
always be empty worker-cells in the brood-chamber. 

It is often required with us during the three great honey 

14 



210 To Purify Homy. 

harvests — the white clover, basswood, and that of tall flowers. 
I have always extracted the honey so frequently as to avoid 
much uncapping. If the honey is thin, I would keep it in 
a dry warm room, or apply a mild heat, that it might thicken, 
and escape danger from fermentation. 

Many have sustained loss by extracting prematurely, so 
perhaps the beginner better not extract till after the bees have 
commenced to seal the honey. The labor of uncapping, with 
the excellent honey knives now at our command, is so light 
that we can afford to run no risk that the honey produced at 
our apiaries shall sour and become worthless. 

If the honey granulates, it can be reduced to the fluid state 
with no injury, by heating, though the temperature should 
never rise above 200° F. This can best be done by placing 
the vessel containing the honey in another containing water, 
though if the second vessel be set on a stove, a tin basin or 
pieces of wood should prevent the honey vessel from touching 
the bottom, else the honey will burn. As before stated, the 
best honey is always sure to crystallize, but it may be prevented 
by keeping it in a temperature which is constantly above 80° 
F. If canned honey is set on top of a furnace in which a Are 
is kept burning, it will remain liquid indefinitely. 

The fact that honey granulates is the best test of its purity. 
To be sure, some honey does not crystallize, but it is so rare . 
that we may pretty safely decide that granulated honey is un- 
adulterated. 

To render the honey free from small pieces of comb, or other 
impurities, it should either be passed throngh a cloth or wire 
sieve — I purposely refrain from the use of the word strainer, 
as we should neither use the word strained, nor allow it to be 
used, in connection with extracted honey — or else draw it off 
into a barrel, with a faucet or molasses gate near the lower end, 
and after all particles of solid matter have risen to the top, 
draw off the clear honey from the bottom. In case of very 
thick honey, this method is not so satisfactory as the first. I 
hardly need say that honey, when heated, is thinner, and will 
of course pass more readily through common toweling or fine 
wire cloth. 

Never allow the queen to be forced to idleness for want of 
empty cells. Extract all uncapped honey in the fall, and the 
honey from all the brood-combs not needed for winter. The 



Comb Box. 



211 



honey should also be thrown from pieces of drone-comb which 
are cut from the brood-frames, and from the uncapped comb 
in sections at the close of the season. 



HOW TO EXTRACT. 



The apiarist should possess one or two light comb boxes or 
baskets (Fig. 95), of sufficient size to hold all the frames from 
a single hive.- These should have convenient handles, and a 
cover, which will slide either way. Now, go to 



close-fitting 



Fig. 95. 




Comb Box. 

two or three colonies, and take enough' combs, and of the right 
kind, for a colony. The bees may be shaken off or brushed off 
with a large feather, pine twig, or other brush. If the bees 
are troublesome, close the box as soon as each comb is placed 
inside. Extract the honey from these, using care not to turn 
so hard as to throw out the brood. If necessary, with a thin 
knife pare off the caps, and after throwing the honey from one 
side, turn the comb around, and extract it from the other. 
If the combs are of very different weights, it will be better for 
the extractor to use those of nearly equal weights on opposite 
sides, as the strain will be much less. Now take these combs 
to another colony, whose combs shall be replaced by them. 
Then close the hive, extract this second set of combs, and 
thus proceed till all the honey has been extracted. At the close, 



212 



Bee Tent 



the one or two colonies from which the first combs were taken 
shall receive pay from the last set extracted, and thus, with 
much saving of time, little disturbance of bees, and the least 
invitation to robbing, in case there is no gathering, we have 
gone rapidly through the apiary. 

Some apiarists take the first set of combs from a single 
colony and leave that colony without combs till they are 
through for the day. 

In case the bees are not gathering, we shall escape robbing 
and stings by use of the tent (Fig. 96). This covers the hive 

Fig. 96. 




Bee Tent. 

and operator. The one figured is^very ingenious in its con- 
struction, is light and cheap. Mr. Root sells it all made for 
use for one dollar. 

TO KEEP EXTRACTED HONEY. 

Extracted honey, if to be sold in cans or bottles, may be 
run into them from the extractor. The honey should be thick, 
and the vessels may be sealed or corked, and boxed at once. 

If large quantities of honey are extracted, it may be most 
conveniently kept in barrels. These should be first-class, and 



To Keep Extracted Honey. 213 

ought to be waxed before using them, to make assurance 
doubly sure against any leakage. To wax the barrels, we may 
use beeswax, but paraffine is cheaper, and just as efficient. 
Three or four quarts of the hot paraffine or wax should be 
turned into the barrel, the bung driven in tight, the barrel 
twirled in every position, after which the bung is loosened by 
a blow with the hammer, and the residue of the wax turned 
out. Economy requires that the barrels be warm when waxed, 
so that only a thin coat will be appropriated. 

Large tin cans, waxed and soldered at the openings after 
being filled, are cheap, and may be the most desirable recep- 
tacles for extracted honey. 

Extracted honey should always be kept in dry apartments. 
If thin when extracted, it should be kept in open barrels or 
cans in a warm dry room till it has thoroughly ripened. 



214 Working for Comb-Honey. 



CHAPTER XIII. 

WORKING FOR COMB-HONEY. 

While extracted honey has so much to recommend it, and 
is rapidly growing in favor with American apiarists, still such 
reports as that of Dr. C. C. Miller, who the past season in- 
creased his 174 colonies to 202, and took 16,000 pounds of 
comb honey in one pound sections, which netted him very 
nearly $3,000, and that of Mr. Doolittle, who has secured nearly 
100 pounds of comb-honey per colony for a long series of 
years, may well lead us not to ignore this branch of our busi- 
ness. The showy horse, or the red short-horn, may not be in- 
trinsically superior to the less attractive animals ; but they will 
always win in the market. So comb-honey, in the beautiful 
one pound sections, will always attract buyers and secure the 
highest price. As more embark in the production of extract- 
ed honey, higher will be the price of the irresistible, incom- 
parable comb-honey. Well then may we study how to secure 
the most of this exquisite product of the bees, in a form that 
shall rival in attractiveness that of the product itself, for very 
likely the state of the market in some localities will make its 
production the most profitable feature of apiculture. 

POINTS TO CONSIDER. 

To secure abundance of comb-honey the colonies must be 
very strong, and the brood combs full of brood at the dawn 
of the honey harvest. The swarming fever must be kept at 
bay or cured, before the rapid storing commences, and the 
honey should be secured in the most attractive form. 

TO SECURE STRONG COLONIES. 

By feeding daily, whenever the bees are not storing, com- 
mencing as soon as the bees commence to store pollen, we shall 
almost certainly secure this result. We should also use the 
division board, and keep the bees crowded, especially if weak 
in the spring. Only give them the number of combs that 
they can cover. Keep them warmly covered above and on 



To Avoid Swarming. 215 

the sides. True, Mr. Heddon objects to this work of feeding 
and manipulating division boards, and makes much honey and 
money. I have often wondered what his genius and skill* 
would accomplish should he vary his method in this respect. 
Instead of feeding by use of the Smith (Fig. 76) or other feeder, 
we may uncap a comb of honey and with it separate combs of 
brood as the bees get two or three full frames of the latter. 
This will stimulate the bees, and as they will carry the honey 
from the uncapped cells the queen will be impelled to most 
rapid laying. By turning around the brood combs, or sepa- 
rating them by adding combs with empty cells as the colonies 
gain in strength, we hasten brood rearing to the utmost. 

TO AVOID THE SWARMING FEVER. 

This is not always possible by any method, and has been the 
obstacle in the way of successful comb-honey production. 
The swarming impulse and great yields of this delectable pro- 
duct are entirely antagonistic. Mr. James Heddon, Davis, 
and others let the bees swarm. They hive these swarms on 
foundation, and hope to have this all done, and both colonies 
strong, in time for the honey harvest. Some of our best Mich- 
igan and New York bee-keepers, with Dr. Miller, let the bees 
swarm, and return them, either caging the queen or placing 
her in a nucleus for nine days, then return her to the bees, 
after cutting out the queen cells. This takes nothing from 
the energy of the bees, and "will doubtless work best of all 
methods in the hands of the beginner. If increase is desired, 
however, then Mr. Heddon's method should be followed. The 
yield of comb-honey in this last case will not usually be so 
great, though in excellent seasons it may be greater. 

Some very able bee-keepers manipulate so skillfully, by ad- 
ding empty combs to the hives, as to keep this swarming im- 
pulse in check, and still keep the bees increasing most rapid- 
ly. Others divide the colonies, and so hold at bay the swarm- 
ing fever. All must practice as their own experience proves 
best, as the same method will not have equal value with differ- 
ent persons. We must work as best we can to secure strong 
colonies, and check or retard the swarming fever, and while 
learning by experience to do this, may well work the most of 
our bees for extracted honey, which is more easily secured, 



216 Starting Sections. 

and is sure to be in demand, even though the price is less. 
The quantity may more than compensate for lower price. 

ADJUSTMENT OF SECTIONS. 

As before suggested, a wide space between bottom-bars of 
sections — three-eighths inch — is desirable. The sections should 
be on at the very dawn of each honey harvest, as white clover, 
bass-wood, etc. At first the full set of sections better not be 
added, but as soon as ttte bees commence to work well in them, 
then all should be added, on side and top, if side storing is 
practiced, and if we wish to tier up, the crate of sections first 
added should be raised and others added below. As already 
stated it is best not to have the sections too closely shut in. 
Slight ventilation is desirable. 

If the queen troubles by entering the sections, use may be 
made of the perforated zinc (Fig. 60) to keep her from them. 
As already suggested, we must arrange the form and size of 
sections as the market and our hives and apparatus make most 
desirable. We may vary the size and form of our sections so 
as to make them smaller and yet use the same crates or frames 
that we used with larger sections. Small sections are most 
ready of sale, and safest to ship ; yet with their use, we secure 
less honey. 

If we can get nice straight combs by having them less thick 
without using separators in the sections, so that these latter can 
be readily placed side by side in shipping crates, then we, by 
all means, better omit the separators. If we use separators, 
we can use wood or tin. Wood is cheapest, and I find that in 
practice it serves as well as tin. 

GETTING BEES INTO SECTIONS. 

The crowded hive or brood-chamber, with no intent to 
swarm, the wide spaces between sections, and a rich harvest of 
nectar, will usually send the bees into the sections with a rush. 
If they refuse to go, a little drone brood, or the exchange of 
sections temporarily from above to the brood-nest, or the mov- 
ing of a brood-frame up beside the sections for a short time, as 
before described, will frequently start the bees into the sections.- 
Some apiarists have their crates with sections so made that they 
can be placed between the brood frames till the bees commence 
to work in the sections ; others accomplish the same end by in- 



Removing Sections. 217 

verting the frames. With experience will come the skill which 
can accomplish this, simply by management of the bees with- 
out resort to such measures as just described. 

REMOVAL OF SECTIONS. 

The three-eighths inch space between the upper as well as 
the lower bars of the sections enables us to see quickly the 
condition of each section just by removal of the cover. Each 
section should be removed as soon as capped, if we would have 
it very nice. Any delay will make it dark and hurt its 
sale. During the harvest we should add other sections to take 
the place of those removed. Towards the close of the harvest 
we should not add other sections, for, by contracting the space, 
the last sections will be more surely filled and quickly capped. 
To remove the bees from single sections taken from frame or 
crate, we have only to brush them off. If we take a full crate 
at once, we can set it in a dark box or room, with some small 
opening for the bees to escape. If the hole is at one side and 
is covered by wire cloth, which should be separated from the box 
three-eighths of an inch, by placing lath between it and the 
box, and made to extend three inches above the opening, out- 
side bees will fail to enter while those within will readily pass 
out. I have used a box with no cover, and by spreading a 
sheet on this the bees would collect on the sheet. I would 
occasionally turn the sheet over. With the old boxes, such ar- 
rangements were more necessary. Now, with smoke and brush 
we can often dispense with other aids. 

As comb-honey is in better condition for market if it is 
stored for a few days where the air can circulate freely about 
it, it is always well to fumigate it by burning sulphur in a 
close room or box. It is well to do this, even though the honey 
is to be immediately shipped. 



218 Handling Bees. 

CHAPTER XIV. 
HANDLING BEES. 

But some one asks the question, shall we not receive those 
merciless stings, or be introduced to what ' ' Josh " calls the 
" business end of the bee?" Perhaps there is no more cause- 
less or more common dread in existence than this of bees' 
stings. When bees are gathering, they will never sting unless 
provoked. When at the hives — especially if Italians — they 
will rarely make an attack. The common belief, too, that 
some persons are more liable to attack than others, is, I think, 
erroneous. With the best opportunity to judge, with our 
hundreds of students, I think I may safely say that one is 
almost always as liable to attack as another, except that he is 
more quiet, or does not greet the usually amiable passer-by 
with those terrific thrusts, which would vanquish even a prac- 
ticed pugilist. Occasionally a person may have a peculiar odor 
about his person that angers bees and invites their darting tilts, 
witli drawn swords, venom-tipped, yet, though I take my large 
classes each season, at frequent intervals, to see and handle 
the bees, each for himself, I still await the first proof of the 
fact that one person is more liable to be stung than another, 
providing each carries himself with that composed and dignified 
bearing that is so pleasing to the bees. True, some people, 
filled with dread, and the belief that bees regard them with 
special hate and malice, are so ready for the battle that they 
commence the strife with nervous head-shakes and beating of 
the air, and thus force the bees to battle, noientes volentes. I be- 
lieve that only such are regarded with special aversion by the 
bees. Hence, I believe that no one need be stung. 

Bees should never be jarred, nor irritated by quick motions. 
Those with nervous temperaments — and I plead very guilty on 
this point — need not give up, but at first better protect their 
faces, and perhaps even their hands, till time and experience 
show them that fear is vain ; then they will divest themselves 
of all such useless encumbrances. Bees are more cross when 
they are gathering no honey, and at such times, black bees 
and hybrids especially, are so irritable that even the expe- 
rienced apiarist will wish a veil. 



Bee Veil and Gloves. 219 

THE BEST BEE-VEIL. 

This should be made of black tarlatan, sewed up like a bag, 
a half yard long, without top or bottom, and with a diameter 
of the rim of a common straw-hat. Gather the top with braid, 
so that it will just slip over the crown of the hat — else, sew it 
to the edge of the rim of some cheap, cool hat, in fact, I prefer 
this style — and gather the bottom with rubber cord or rubber 
tape, so that it may be drawn over the hat rim, and then over 
the head, as we adjust the hat. 

Some prefer to dispense with the rubber cord at the bottom 
(Fig. 97), and have the veil long so as to be gathered in by 
the coat or dress. If the black tarlatan troubles by coloring 

Fig. 97. 




the shirt or collar, the lower part may be made of white net- 
ting. When in use, the rubber cord draws the lower part 
close about the neck, or the lower part tucks within the coat 
or vest (Fig. 97), and we are safe. This kind of a veil is cool, 
does not impede vision at all, and can be made by any woman 
at a cost of less than twe#ty cents. Common buck-skin or 
sheep-skin gloves can be used, as it will scarcely pay to get 
special gloves for the purpose, for the most timid person — I 
speak from experience — will soon consider gloves an unneces- 
sary nuisance. 

Special rubber gloves are sold by those who keep on hand 
apiarian supplies. It is reported that heavily starched linen 



220 Ladies' Dress. 

is proof against the bees' sting, and so may be used for gloves 
or other clothing. Some apiarists think that dark clothing is 
specially obnoxious to bees. It is certainly true that fuzzy 
woolen, and even hairs on one's hands are very irritating to 
bees. Clothes with a heavy nap should be rejected by the bee- 
keeper, and the Esaus should singe the hair from their hands. 

For ladies, my friend, Mrs. Baker, recommends a dress 
which, by use of the rubber skirt-lift or other device, can be 
instantly raised or lowered. This will be convenient in the 
apiary, and tidy anywhere. The Gabrielle style is preferred, 
and of a length just to reach the floor. It should be belted 
at the waist, and cut down from the neck in front, one-third 
the length of the waist, to permit the tucking in of the veil. 
The under-waist should fasten close about the neck. The 
sleeves should be quite long to allow free use of the arms, and 
gathered in with a rubber cord at the wrist, which will hug 
the rubber gauntlets or arm, and prevent bees from crawling 
up the sleeves. The pantalets should be straight and full, and 
should also have the rubber cord in the hem to draw them 
close about the top of the shoes. , 

Mrs. Baker also places great stress on the wet "head-cap," 
which she believes the men even would find a great comfort. 
This is a simple, close-fitting cap, made of two thicknesses of 
coarse toweling. The head is wet with cold water, and the cap 
wet in the same, wrung out, and placed on the head. 

Mrs. Baker would have the dress neat and clean, and so 
trimmed that the lady apiarist would ever be ready to greet 
her brother or sister apiarists. In such a dress there is no. 
danger of stings, and with it there is that show of neatness 
and taste, without which no pursuit could attract the attention, 
or at least the patronage, of our refined women. 

TO QUIET BEES. 

In harvest seasons, the bees, especially if Italians, can almost 
always be handled without their showing resentment. But at 
other times, and whenever they object to necessary familiarity, 
we have only to cause them to fill with honey to render them 
harmless, unless we pinch them. This can be done by closing 
the hive so that the bees cannot get out, and then rapping 
on the hive for four or five minutes. Those within will fill 
with honey, those without will be tamed by surprise, and all 



The Smoker. 



221 



will be quiet. Sprinkling the bees with sweetened water will 
also tend to render them amiable, and will make them more 
ready to unite, to receive a queen, and less apt to sting. Still 
another method, more convenient, is to smoke the bees. A 
little smoke blown among the bees will scarcely ever fail to 
quiet them, though I have known black bees, in autumn, to be 
very slow to yield. 

The Syrian bees are maddened rather than quieted by use of 
smoke. I find, however, that with handling they soon become 
more like Italians. Deliberation is specially desirable when 
we first open the hive of Syrian bees. 

Dry cotton cloth, closely wound and sewed or tied, or, better, 
pieces of dry, rotten wood are excellent for the purpose of 
smoking. These are easily handled, and will burn for a long 
time. But best of all is a 



BELLOWS-SMOKER. 

This is a tin tube attached to a bellows. Cloth, corn-cobs, 
or rotten wood (that which has been attacked by dry rot is the 

Fig. 99. 



Fig. 98. 






best) can be burned in the tube, and will remain burning a 
long time. The smoke can be directed at pleasure, the bellows 
easily worked, and the smoker used without any disagreeable 
effects or danger from fire. 



222 



To Smoke Bees. 



THE QUINBY SMOKER. 

This smoker (Fig. 98, a) was a gift to bee-keepers by the 
late Mr. Quinby, and not patented ; though I supposed it was, 
and so stated in a former edition of this work. Though a 
similar device had been previously used in Europe, without 
doubt Mr. Quinby was not aware of the fact, and as he was 
the person to bring it to the notice of bee-keepers, and to make 
it so perfect as to challenge the attention and win the favor of 
apiarists instanter, he is certainly worthy of great praise, and 
deserving of hearty gratitude. 

This first smoker has been improved (Fig. 98, 6) in what is 
now sold as the Improved Quinby. 

Mr. Bingham was the first to improve the old Quinby smoker 
in establishing a direct draft (Fig. 99). Mr. Clark next 
added the cold draft (Fig. 100). 

Fig. 100. 




There are now several smokers on the market, each of which 
has its merits and its friends. No person who keeps even a 
single colony of bees, can afford to do without some one. of 
them. 



TO SMOKE BEES. 



Approach the hive, blow a little smoke in at the entrance, 
then open from above, and blow in smoke as required. If, 
at any time, the bees seem irritable, a few puffs from the 
smoker will subdue them. Thus, any person may handle his 
bees with perfect freedom and safety. If, at any time, the 



Treatment of Stings. 223 

fire-chamber and escapfc-pipe of the smoker become filled with 
soot, they can easily be cleaned by revolving an iron or hard- 
wood stick inside of them. 

CHLOROFORM. 

Mr. Jones finds that chloroform is very useful in quieting 
bees. He puts a dry sponge in the tube of the smoker, then 
a sponge wet in chloroform — it takes but a few drops — then 
puts in another dry sponge. These dry sponges prevent the 
escape of the chloroform, except when the bellows is worked. 
Mr. Jones finds that bees partially stupified with chloroform 
receive queens without any show of ill-will.. As soon as the 
bees begin to fall, the queen is put into the hive, and no more 
of the vapor added. I tried this last summer with perfect 
success. This was recommended years ago in Germany, but 
its use seems to have been abandoned. It is more than like- 
ly that Mr. Jones' method of applying the ansethetic is what 
makes it more valuable. The smoker diffuses the vapor so 
that all bees receive it, and none get too much. I should use 
ether insteadof chloroform, as with higher animals it is a little 
more mild and safe. 

TO CURE STINGS. 

In case a person is stung, he should step back a little for a 
moment, as the pungent odor of the venom is likely to anger 
the bees and induce further stinging By forcing a little smoke 
from the smoker onto the part stung, we will obscure this odor. 
The sting should be rubbed off at once. I say rubbed, for we 
should not grasp it with the finger-nails, asihat crowds more 
poison into the wound. If the pain is such as to prove trouble- 
some, apply a little ammonia. The venom is an acid, and is 
neutralized by the alkali. A strong solution of saltpetre I 
have found nearly as good to relieve pain as the ammonia. 
Ice cold water drives the blood from any part of our body to 
which it is applied, and so it often gives relief to quickly 
immerse the part stung in very cold water. In case horses are 
badly stung, as sometimes happens, they should be taken as 
speedily as possible into a barn (a man, too, may escape angry 
bees by entering a building), where the bees will seldom follow, 
then Wash the horses in soda water, and cover with blankets 
wet in cold water. 



224 Bee Tent. 



THE SWEAT THEORY. 



It is often stated that sweaty horses and people are obnoxious 
to the bees, and hence almost sure targets for their barbed 
arrows. In warm weather I perspire most profusely, yet am 
scarcely ever stung, since I have learned to control my nerves. 
I once kept my bees in the front yard — they looked beautiful 
on the green lawn — within two rods of a main thoroughfare, 
and not infrequently let my horse, covered with sweat upon 
my return from a drive, crop the grass, while cooling off, right 
in the same yard. Of course, there was some danger, but I 
never knew my horse to get stung. Why, then, the theory? 
May not the more frequent stings be consequent upon the 
warm, nervous condition of the individual? The man is more 
ready to strike and jerk, the horse to stamp and switch. The 
switching of the horse's tail, like the whisker trap of a full 
beard, will anger even a good-natured bee. I should dread 
the motions more than the sweat, though it may be true that 
there is a peculiarity in the odor from either the sensible or 
insensible perspiration of some persons, that angers the bees 
and provokes the use of their terrible weapons. 

Often when there is no honey to gather, as when we take 
the last honey in autumn, or prepare the bees for winter, the 
bees are inordinately cross. This is especially true of black 
bees and hybrids. At such times I have found an invaluable 
aid in 

THE BEE TENT. 

This also keeps all robbers from mischief. Jt is simply a 
tent which entirely covers the hive, bees, bee-keeper and all. 
The one I use (Fig. 101) is light, large, and easily moved, or 
folded up if we wish to put it in the house. The sides are 
rectangular frames made of light pine strips, well placed (Fig. 
101 , b, b), and covered with wire cloth. The top and ends are 
covered with factory cloth, except at one end, where it is 
fastened at will by rings which hook over screws. The sides 
have no permanent connection of wood except at the ends 
(Fig. 101, c, c). The small strips which connect at these 
places are double, and hinged to the side frames, and the two 
parts of each hinged together. Thus these may drop, and so 
permit the side frames to come close together when we wish to 
"fold our tent." The sides are kept apart by center cross- 



Bee Tent. 



225 



strips at the ends (Fig. 101, a, a), from which braces (Fig. 
101, i, i) extend to the double cross-strips above. These 

Fig. 101. 




Bee Tent. 

center strips, with their braces hinged to them, are separate 
from the rest of the frame except when hooked on, as we spread 
the tent. 

After use of this' tent one season, I can not praise it too 
highly. I have already referred to a cheap tent made by Mr. 
A. I. Root (Fig. 96). 



15 



226 



Comb Foundation. 



CHAPTER XV. 



COMB FOUNDATION. 

Every apiarist of experience knows that empty combs in 
frames, comb-guides in the sections, to tempt the bees and to 
insure the proper position of the full combs, in fact, combs of 
almost any kind or shape, are of great importance. So every 
skillful apiarist is very careful to save all drone-comb that is 
cut out of the brood-chamber — where it is worse than useless, 
as it brings with it myriads of those useless gormands, the 
drones — to kill the eggs, remove the brood, or extract the 
honey, and transfer it to the sections. He is equally care- 
ful to keep all his worker-comb, so long as the cells are of 
proper size to domicile full-sized larvae, and never to sell any 
comb, or even comb-honey, unless a much greater price makes 
it desirable. 

No wonder, then, if comb is so desirable, that German 
thought and Yankee ingenuity have devised means of giving 
the bees at least a start in this important, yet expensive work 

Fig. 102. 



™— p 



#SI?Ni>S^S^M': 'VIM- 




of comb-building, and hence the origin of another great aid 
to the apiarist — comb foundation (Fig. 102). 

HISTORY. 

For more than twenty -five years the Germans have used im- 
pressed sheets of wax as a foundation for comb, as it was first 
made by Herr Mehring, in 1857. These sheets are four or 
five times as thick as the partition at the center of natural 
comb, which is very thin, only 1-180 of an inch thick. This 



American Foundation. 227 

is pressed between metal plates so accurately formed that the 
wax receives rhomboidal impressions which are a fac simile of 
the basal wall or partition between the opposite cells of natural 
comb. The thickness of this sheet is "no objection, as it is 
found that the bees almost always thin it down to the natural 
thickness, and use the shavings to form the walls. 

AMERICAN FOUNDATION. 

Mr. Wagner secured a patent on foundation in 1861, but as 
the. article Avas already in use in Germany, the patent was, as 
we understand, of no legal value, and certainly, as it did 
nothing to bring this desirable article into use, it had no virtual 
value. Mr. Wagner was also the first to suggest the idea of 
rollers. In Langstroth's work, edition of 1859, p. 373, occurs 
the following, in reference to printing or stamping combs: 
' ' Mr. Wagner suggests forming these outlines with a simple 
instrument somewhat like a wheel cake cutter. When a large 
number are to be made, a machine might easily be constructed 
which would stamp them with great rapidity." In 1866, the 
King Brothers, of New York, in accordance with the above 
suggestion, made the first machine with rollers, the product of 
which they tried to get patented but failed. These stamped 
rollers were less than two inches long. This machine was use- 
less, and failed to bring foundation into general use. 

In 1874, Mr. Frederick Weiss, a poor German, invented 
the machine which brought the foundation into general use. 
His machine had lengthened rollers — they being six inches 
long — and shallow grooves between the pyramidal projections, 
so that there was a very shallow cell raised from the basal im- 
pression as left by the German plates. This was the machine 
on which was made the beautiful and practical foundation sent 
out by "John Long," in 1874 and 1875, and which proved 
to the American apiarists that foundation machines, and foun- 
dation, were to be a success. I used some of this early foun- 
dation, and have been no more successful with that made by 
the machines of to-day. To Frederick Weiss, then, are Ameri- 
cans and the world indebted for this invaluable aid to the 
apiarist. 

In 1876, Mr. A. I. Root commenced in his energetic, enthu- 
siastic way, and soon brought the roller machine and foundation 
into general use. These machines, though a great aid to api- 



228 



Dunham Machine. 



culture, were still imperfect, and though sold at an extrava- 
gantly high price — through no fault of Mr. Root, as he informs 
me — were in great demand. Next, Mrs. F. Dunham greatly 
improved the machine by so making the rolls (Fig. 103) that 

Fig. 103. 




the foundation would have a very thin base and high thick 
walls which, in the manufacture, were not greatly pressed. 
These three points are very desirable in all foundation — thin 
base and thick, high walls, which shall not be compactly pressed. 
Mrs. Dunham is not only entitled to gratitude for the supe- 
rior excellence of the machines she manufactured, but by put- 
ting so excellent a machine onto the market at a lower price, 
all roller machines had to be sold more reasonably. Mr. Van- 
dervort also improved the rollers, so that his machine secures 
the same results as does Mrs. Dunham's, while the form of the 
foundation is somewhat more natural, though not preferred by 
the bees I think. Another form of foundation — that with flat 
bottom — is made by the VanDeusen mill. This has a very 
thin base, and is very handsome. It was made to use with 
wires. In my experience this flat bottom foundation is not as 
acceptable to the bees as the other kinds. Mr. Root has kept 
his machine abreast with the latest improvements. Mr. Pel- 
ham has invented rolls that are made in rings or sections, 



Press for Foundation. 



229 



each ring the width of a cell. Such rolls, if they work well, 
and I see no reason why they should not, will reduce the price 
of machines so that all — even small apiarists — can afford to 
own them. 



THE PRESS FOR FOUNDATION. 



Mr. D. A. Given, of Illinois, has given a press (Fig. 104) 
that stamps the sheets by plates and not by rolls, which, at 

Fig. 104. 




present, is giving better satisfaction than even the improved 
roller machines. This shuts up like a book and the wax sheets, 
instead of passing between carved metal rollers, are stamped 
by a press after being placed in position. The advantages of 
this press as claimed by its friends — -which seem to number all 
who have used it — are that the foundation has the requisites 
already referred to, par excellence, that it is easily and 
rapidly worked, and that foundation can at once be pressed 
into the wired frames. Rubber plates have also been made 
but as yet have not won general favor or acceptance. All of 
these improved machines give us foundation of exquisite 
mold and with such rapidity that it can be made cheap and 



230 Foundation Making. 

practical. As Mr. Hecldon says, the bees in two days, with 
foundation, will do more than they would in eight days with- 
out it. Every one who wishes the best success must use founda- 
tion not only in the brood chamber but in sections. Whoever 
has 100 colonies of bees may well own a machine for himself. 

HOW FOUNDATION IS MADE. 

The process of making the foundation is very simple. Thin 
sheets of wax, of the desired thickness, are pressed between 
the plates or passed between the rolls, which are made so as to 
stamp either drone or worker foundation as desired. Worker 
is best I think even for sections. The only .difficulty in the 
way of very rapid work is that from sticking of the* wax sheets 
to the dies. Mr. Heddon finds that by wetting the dies with 
concentrated lye the wax is not injured and sticking is pre- 
vented. Mr. Jones uses soap suds with excellent success for 
the same purpose. Think of two men running through fifty 
pounds of foundation in an hour! That is what I saw two 
men do at Mr. Jones', with a Dunham machine by use of soap 
suds. The man who put in the wax sheets was not delayed at 
all. The kind of soap should be selected with care. Mr. 
Root prefers common starch to either lye or soap-suds. New 
machines are more liable to trouble with sticking than are those 
that have been used for some time. 

TO SECURE THE AVAX SHEETS. 

The wax should be melted in a' double walled tin vessel, 
"with water between the walls, so that in no case would it be 
burned or over heated. 

To form the sheets a dipping board of the width and length 
of the desired sheets, is the best. It should be made of pine, 
and should be true and very smooth. This is first dipped into 
cold water, then one end is dipped quickly into the melted 
wax, then raised till dripping ceases — only a second — this end 
dipped into the cold water, grasped by means of a dextrous 
toss with the hands and the other end treated the same way. 
The thing is repeated if necessary till the sheet is thick enough. 
Twice dipping is enough for brood combs, once for sections. 
We now only have to shave the edges with a sharp knife, and 
we can peel off two fine sheets of wax. This is Mr. Jones' 
plan and is better than to dip only one end of the board, as 
in that case the wax runs dow r n the board and the sheets are 



Use of Foundation. 



231 



thickest at one end. With the device of Mr. Jones the wax 
runs to the ends, and to make the middle as thick, the board 
is lowered in the melted wax below the centre. At Mr. Jones' I 
saw one man dip the sheets as fast as two men could run them 
through the machine. Mr. Heddon, who has used nearly all 
of the roller machiues, thinks Given's press can be used more 
easily and rapidly than any ot them. This seems to me hardly 
possible, yet we must remember that the press puts the founda- 
tion right into the wired frames. Surely Mr. Jones' accom- 
plishment with the Dunham Mill leaves little to be desired. 

For cutting foundation, nothing is so admirable as the Car- 
lin cutter (Fig. 105, a), which is like the wheel glass-cutters 

Fig. 105- 




sold in the shops, except that a larger wheel of tin takes the 
place of the one of hardened steel. Mr. A. I. Root has suggested 
a grooved board (Fig -105, b) to go with the above, the dis- 
tance between the grooves being equal to the desired width of 
the strips of comb foundation to be cut. 

For cutting smaller sheets for the sections the same device 
may be used. I saw Mr. Jones cut these as fast as a boy 
would cut circular wads for his shot-gun, by use of a sort of 
modified cake cutter (Fig. 106). 

USE OF FOUNDATION. 

An empty frame should never be put in the brood chamber. 
Even if foundation was one dollar a pound it still would pay 
richly to use it. It is astonishing to see how rapidly the bees 
will extend the cells, and how readily the queen will stock 
them with eggs if of the right size, five cells to the inch. 



232 How to use Foundation. 

The foundation should always be the right size either for worker or 
drone-comb. Of course the latter size would never be used in 
the brood-chamber. I much doubt if it is wise to use it at 
all. The advantage of foundation is, first, to insure worker- 
comb, and thus worker-brood, and second, to furnish wax, so 
that the bees may be free to gather honey. We have proved 
in our apiary repeatedly, that by use of foundation, and a lit- 
tle care in pruning out the drone-comb, we could limit or even 
exclude drones from our hives, and we have but to examine 
the capacious and constantly crowded stomachs of these idlers 
to appreciate the advantage of such a course. Bees may oc- 
casionally tear down worker-cells, and build drone-cells in their 
place; but such action, I believe, is not sufficiently extensive 
to ever cause anxiety. I am also certain that bees that have 
to secrete Avax to form comb, do much less gathering. Wax 
secretion seems voluntary, and when rapid seems to require 
quiet and great consumption of food. If we make two artifi- 
cial colonies equally strong, supply the one with combs, and 
withhold them from the other, we will find that this last sends 
far less bees to the fields, while all the bees are more or 
less engaged in wax secretion. Thus the other colony gains 
much more rapidly in honey, first, because more bees are stor- 
ing; second, because less food is consumed. This is undoubt- 
edly the reason why extracted' honey can be secured in far 
greater abundance than can comb-honey. 

Unless the frames are wired, the foundation should only 
touch the top of the frame where it is securely fastened. If 
wired, the frames should be full. 

It also pays remarkably well to use foundation in the sec- 
tions. With proper care, all talk about "the fish bone" need 
not frighten any one. Foundation for the sections should be 
about seven feet to the pound, while that for the brood-chamber 
is better at five feet. The foundation should fill the sections. 
Of course, foundation for the sections — in fact all foundation — 
should only be made of nicest, cleanest wax. Only pure, clean, 
unbleached wax should be used in making foundation. We should 
be very careful not to put on the market any comb-honey where 
the foundation has not been properly thinned by the bees. 
Perhaps a very fine needle Avould enable one to determine this 
point without injury to the honey. With our present foun- 
dation there is little danger. 



To Fasten Foundation. 233 

TO FASTEN THE FOUNDATION. 

In the thin sections, the foundation can best be fastened by 
use of the melted wax. To accomplish this, I have used a 
block made thus: Saw a board that is one-half of an inch 
thinner than half the depth of the section, so that it will just 
exactly fit in the section. Screw this to a second board, which 
is one-half inch broader each way, so that the larger under 
board will project one-quarter of an inch each side the top 
board. Now set the section over the top board, place the 
foundation, cut a trifle shorter than the inside of the section, 
within, close to the top and one side of the section, and cause 
it to adhere by running on a little of the melted wax, which, 
by use of a kerosene lamp or stove, may be kept melted. If 
the basin is double-walled, with water in the outer chamber 
and wax in the inner, it is much safer, as then the wax will 
never burn. A warm iron run on the foundation just at the 
edge, will also glue it to the section. 

If the tops of the sections are thick, they may be grooved, 
and by crowding the foundation into the groove, and, if neces- 
sary, pressing it with a thin wedge, it will be securely held. 

This last method will work nicely in case of fastening into 
the brood-frames. But I have found that I could fasten them 
rapidly and very securely by simply pressing them against the 
rectangular projection from the top-bar already described. In 
this case a block (Fig. 107, a) should reach up into the frame 
from the side which is nearest to the rectangular projection — 
it will be remembered that the projection (Fig. 45) is a little 
to one side of the center of the top-bar, so that the foundation 
shall hang exactly in the center — so far that its upper surface 
would be exactly level with the upper surface of the rectangu- 
lar projection. This block, like the one described above, has 
shoulders (Fig. 107, c), so that it will always reach just the 
proper distance into the frame. It is also rabbeted at the edge 
where the projectiou of the top-bar of the frame will rest (Fig. 
107, b), so that the projection has a solid support, and will 
not split off Avith pressure. We now set our frame on this 
block, lay on our foundation, cut the size we desire, which, 
unless strengthened, will be as long as the frame, and nearly 
as wide. The foundation will rest firmly on the projection 
and block, and touch the top-bar at every point. We now 
take a board as thick as the projection is deep, and as wide 



234 



To Fasten Foundation. 



(Fig. 108, d) as the frame is long, which may be trimmed 
off, so as to have a convenient handle (Fig. 108, e), and by 
wetting the edge of this (Fig. 108, d) either in water, or, 
better, starch-water, and pressing with it on the foundation 



Fig. 107. 




■■lis 




above the projection, the foundation will be made to adhere 
firmly to the latter, when the frame may be raised with the 
block, taken off, and another fastened as before. I have prac- 
ticed this plan for years, and have had admirable success. I 
have very rarely Known the foundation to drop if made of 
good wax, though it must be remembered that our hives are 
shaded, and our frames small. 

The above methods are successful; but probably will receive 
valuable modifications at the hands of the ingenious apiarists 

Fig. 109. 




of our land. If we have frames with the V shaped top-bar 
(Fig. 44), we may easily break the foundation and press it on, 
as shown in Fig. 109. 



Wired Frame*. 



235 



WIEED FEAMES. 

But as foundation does sometimes fall or sag, so that many 
cells are changed to drone-cells, or warp into awkward shapes, 
especially if the hive is unshaded, or receives a full colony of 
bees with all its frames full of foundation, and as the wax is 
sometimes so brittle that it will not hold together, however 
well fastened, wired frames (Fig. 110) are rapidly coming into 

Fig. 110. 




use. Another point strongly in favor of such frames is, that 
they can be handled or shipped, and there is not the least danger 
of their combs falling from the frames. ■ The wires should be 
two inches apart, and the extreme wires not more than one- 
half inch from the side of the frame. They may be fastened 
by passing through holes in the top and bottom bars of the 
frames, which must be exactly in the center, or they may be 
hooked over little hooks, such as* may be made by driving a 
staple into the frame after we have cut one limb of the staple 
off near the curve. If holes are to be made through the top 
bars of the frame, they can be easily formed by use of sharp 
awls. If these are set in a strong block like an iron rake, each 
bar can be pierced at one stroke by use of a lever press. If 
the foundation is to be stamped in the frame by the Given 
Press, then the wire should be No. 36 ; if it is to be put on by 
hand, then No. 30 must be used. Tinned wire should be used. 
Some, even with the Given Press, prefer to put the foundation 
onto the wires by hand. In this case the foundation should 
be warmed till quite soft, then laid on the wires, and by use 
of a shoe-buttoner, with a longitudal groove cut into the con- 
vex side of the curve, pressed onto the wires. This work is 
easily and rapidly performed. 

, SAVE THE WAX. 

As foundation is becoming so popular, it behooves us all to 
be very careful that no old comb goes to waste. Even now 



236 



To Save the Wax. 



the supply of wax in the country is scarce equal to the demand. 
Soiled drone-comb, old, worthless worker-comb, all the comb 
in the old hives if we use Mr. Heddon's method of transferring, 
and all fragments that cannot be used in the hives, together 
with cappings, after the honey is drained out through a coarse 
bag or colander — which process may be hastened by a moderate 
heat, not sufficient to melt the wax, and frequent stirring — 
should be melted, cleansed, and molded into cakes of wax, 
soon to be again stamped, not by the bees, but by wondrous art. 

METHODS. 

A slow and wasteful method is to melt in a vessel of heated 
water, and to purify by turning off the top, or allowing to 
cool, when the impurities at the bottom are scraped off, and 
the process repeated till all impurities are eliminated. 

A better method to separate the wax is to put it into a 
strong, rather coarse bag, then sink this in Avater and boil. 
At intervals the comb in the bag should be pressed and stirred. 
The wax will collect on top of the water. 

To prevent the wax from burning, the bag should be kept 
from touching the bottom of the vessel by inverting a basin in 
the bottom of the latter, or else by using a double-walled vessel. 
The process should be repeated till the wax is perfectly cleansed. 

But as wax is to become so important, and as the above 
methods are slow, wasteful, and apt to give a poor quality of 

Fig. 111. 




Svnss Wax Extractor. 



wax, specialists, and even amateurs who keep as many as ten 
or twenty colonies of bees, may well procure a wax extractor 
(Fig. 111). This is also a foreign invention, the first being 



Wax Extractors. 



237 



made by Prof. Gerster, of Berne, Switzerland. These cost 
from five to seven dollars, are made of tin, are very conveni- 
ent and admirable, and can be procured of any dealer in api- 
arian supplies. 

The comb is placed in the perforated vessel, and this in the 
larger can, which is set on a kettle of boiling water. The 
clean, pure wax passes out the spout. Mr. Jones has improved 
the common wax extractor (Fig. 112). This is what he 

Fig 112. 






says of it : " Put extractor on stove in the same manner as an 
ordinary pot, having beforehand filled lower tank with water, 
and the perforated basket above tank with broken comb or 
whatever material you wish to extract wax from. The steam 
passes through perforated metal walls of basket, melting every 
particle of wax from the crude material ; the wax runs out of 
a spout for the purpose, turned downwards ; under this spout 
have a receptacle, which have slightly oiled, to keep wax from 
adhering to its walls. The tube turned upwards serves two very 
important purposes, viz. : to fill water into lower tank, and to 



238 To Secure Wax. 

see if tank requires replenishing, without taking out the basket 
above. Keep everything but tube for wax closed, in order to 
lose no steam and give it full force. When not in use as an 
extractor it is excellent as a capping can ; the cappings drop 
into basket, the honey drains off, leaving the remainder just 
where you want them to extract from." 

By this invention all the wax, even of the oldest combs, can 
be secured, in beautiful condition, and as it is perfectly neat, 
there is no danger of provoking the ' ' best woman in the 
world," as we are in danger of doing by use of either of the 
above methods — for what is more untidy and perplexing than 
to have wax boil over on the stove, *and perhaps get on the 
floor, and be generally scattered about ! 

All pieces of comb should be put into a close box, and if 
any larva? are in it, the comb should be melted so frequently 
that it will not smell badly. By taking pains, both in collect- 
ing and melting, the apiarist will be surprised at the close of 
the season, as he views his numerous and beautiful cakes of 
wax, and rejoice as he thinks how little trouble it has all cost. 



Marketing Honey. 239 

CHAPTER XVI. 
MARKETING HONEY. 

No subject merits more attention by the apiarist than that 
of marketing honey. There is no question but that the supply 
is going to continually increase, hence, to sustain the price we 
must stimulate the demand, and by doing this we shall not 
only supply the people with a food element which is necessary 
to health, but we shall also supersede in part the commercial 
syrups, which are so adulterated as not only to be crowded 
with filth the most revolting, but are often even teeming with 
poison. (Report of Michigan Board of Health for 1874, pp. 
75-79.) To bring, then, to our neighbor's table the pure, 
wholesome, delicious nectar, right from the hive, is philan- 
thropy, whether he realizes it or not. 

Nor is it difficult to stimulate the demand. I have given 
special attention to this topic for the last few years, and am 
free to say that not a tithe of the honey is consumed in our 
country that might and should be. 

HOW TO INVIGORATE THE MARKET. 

First. See that no honey goes to market from your apiary 
that is not in the most inviting form possible. Grade all the 
honey thoroughly, and expect prices to correspond with the 
grade. See that every package and vessel is not only attract- 
ive, but so arranged as not to make the dealer any trouble or 
cause him any vexation. One leaky can or crate may do great 
injury. 

Second. See that every grocer in your vicinity has honey 
constantly on hand. Do all you can to build up a home mar- 
ket. The advice to sell to only one or two dealers is, I think, 
wrong. Whether we are to buy or sell, we shall find almost 
always that it will be most satisfactory to deal with men whom 
we know, and who are close at hand. Only when you out- 
grow your home market should you ship to distant places. 
This course will limit the supply in large cities, and thus raise 
the prices in the great marts, whose prices fix those in the 
country. Be sure to keep honey constantly in the markets. 



240 Extracted Honey. 

Third. Insist that each grocer make the honey very con- 
spicuous. If necessary, supply large, fine labels, with your 
own name almost as prominent as is that of the article. 

Fourth. Deliver the honey in small lots, so that it will be 
sure to be kept in inviting form, and, if possible, attend to 
the delivery yourself, that you may know that all is done 
' ' decently and in order. " 

Fifth. Instruct your grocers that they may make the honey 
show to the best effect, and thus captivate the purchaser 
through the sight alone. 

Sixth. Call local and general conventions, that all in the com- 
munity may know and practice the best methods, so that the 
markets may not be demoralized by poor, unsalable honey. 

It is of the greatest importance to encourage State, inter- 
State, and National Associations. Happily, our civilization 
makes every person effected by the acts of each person. Self- 
ishness, not less than Christianity, urges us all to be interest- 
ed in each other. The honey traffic reaches from State to 
State. Bee-keeping will never be perfect as an art till all bee- 
keepers act as one man. He is short-sighted that decries con- 
ventions. It is the experience of the world that they are val- 
uable in other arts. Bee-keeping is no exception. Let us all 
urge that the associations act in unison, from the local to the 
general, that all other apiarian interests no less than the mar- 
kets shall be in the highest degree fostered. Each associa- 
tion, from the most local to the most general, has its special 
mission which no other can perform. 

PREPARATION FOR MARKETS. 

Of course, the method of preparation will depend largely 
upon the style of honey to be sold, so we will consider" these 
kinds separately. 

EXTRACTED HONEY. 

As before intimated, extracted honey has all the flavor, and 
is in every way equal, if" not superior — comb itself is innutri- 
tious and very indigestible, to comb-honey. When people 
once know its excellence — know that it is not ' ' strained" — 
then the demand for this article will be vastly increased, to 
the advantage both of the consumer and the apiarist. 

Explain to each grocer what we mean by the word extract- 



Honey Receptacle*. 



241 



ed, and ask him to spread wide the name and character of the 
honey. Leave cups of honey with the editors and men of in- 
fluence, and get them to discuss its origin and merits. I speak 
from experience, when I say that in these ways the reputa- 
tion and demand for extracted honey can be increased to a sur- 
prising degree, and with astonishing rapidity. 

HOW TO TEMPT THE CONSUMER. 

First. Have it chiefly in small cups or pails. Many per- 
sons will pay twenty-five cents for an article, when if it cost 
fifty cents they would not think of purchasing. 

Second. Study the kinds of receptacles that will take best 
with the buyers. Some persons will prefer such vessels as jel- 
ly cups or glass fruit jars, etc. , that will be useful in every 
household when the honey is gone. Others will prefer more 

Fig. IIP,. 




showy vessels, like the Muth one pound and two pound jars 
(Fig 113), even though they cost more. At present the neat tin 
pails (Fig. 114) holding from one-half pound to twelve 
pounds, are very popular in the markets. The covers shut 

Fig. 114. 




inside, and if the honey is granulated they are very excellent. 
The bails make them more convenient and salable. Mr. 
Jones has a pail that is easily sealed with wax strings, and is 
beautifully decorated with chromoed labels. Such pails are 
16 



242 Honey Receptacle*. 

cheap, convenient, and leave little to be desired. Their beau- 
ty aids the sale. Mr. A. I. Root pronounces them the best 
receptacle for extracted hone}'. 

If the honey is to be sent to a distant market it should be 
in soft wood — spruce, pine, or hemlock — kegs (Fig. 115). 

115. 





These are lighter than barrels, and by thorough soaking in 
water before use they need no waxing. Hard wood barrels 
must be waxed, then if the honey granulates the hoops must 
be loosened to take out the head. This cracks the wax and a 
leak results. 

Third. Explain to the grocer that if kept above the tem- 
perature of 70° or 80° F. , it will not granulate, that granula- 
tion is a pledge of purity and superiority, and show him how 
easy it is to reduce the crystals, and ask him to explain this to 
his customers. If necessary, liquify some of the granulated 
honey in his presence. Put on the labels directions for reli- 
quifying candied honey. Honey, like many other substances, 
will not granulate if heated to 200° F. , and then sealed while 
hot. This does no injury to the honey, but it is trouble, and 
makes the honey less convenient to ship, though at times it 
may pay till we educate our patrons in reference to the excel- 
lence of granulated honey. 

Lastly. If you do not deliver the honey yourself, be sure 
that the vessels will not leak in transit. It is best, in ca*e 
jelly cups are used, that they be filled at the grocery. And 
do not forget the large label, which gives the kind of honey, 
grade, and producer's name. 

If the honey is extracted before it is fully ripened — before 
the bees cap it — it should always be kept in an open can or 
barrel, covered with cloth, and in a warm room. Thus ar- 
ranged it will thicken as well as in the hive. No honey should 
ever be kept in a cool, damp room. 

The admirable work of Mr. C. F. Muth in Cincinnati, ed- 



To Market Comb-Honey. 243. 

ucating people in reference to extracted honey, fighting all 
adulteration, pushing it into the candy, tobacco, and confectiona- 
ry establishments, deserves our hearty gratitude. Mr. Muth's 
market has become stupendous, and graphically shows what 
this trade is to be in the near future, when all our cities have 
a Muth to work for us. I would also recommend to all the 
very valuable little pamphlet of Mr. Chas. Dadant, on the 
production and sale of extracted honey. It is most interest- 
ing reading to the honey producer, and shows what energy and 
thought may accomplish in this direction. 

COMB-HONEY. 

This, from its wondrous beauty, especially when light- 
colored and immaculate, will always be a coveted article for 
the table, and will ever, with proper care, bring the highest 
price paid for honey. So it will always be best to work for 
this, even though we may not be able to procure it in such 
ample profusion as we may the extracted. He who has all 
kinds will be able to satisfy every demand, and will most 
surely meet with success. 

RULES TO BE OBSERVED. 

This, too, should be chiefly in small sections (Fig. 55) for, 
as before stated, such are the packages that surely sell. Sec- 
tions from three to six inches square will just fill a plate 
nicely, and look very tempting to the proud housewife, espec- 
ially if some epicurean friends are to be entertained. 

The sections should surely be in place at the dawn of the 
white clover season, so that the apiarist may secure the most 
of this irresistible nectar, chaste as if capped by the very snow 
itself. They should be taken away as soon as capped, as delay 
makes them highways of travel for the bees, which always mars 
their beauty. 

When removed, if demanded, glass the sections, but before 
this we should place them in hives one upon another, or 
special boxes made tight, with a close cover, in which to store 
either brood-frames in winter or sections at any season, and 
fume them with burning sulphur. This is quickly and easily 
done by use of the smoker. Get the fire in the smoker well 
to burning, add the sulphur, then place this in the top hive, 
or top of the special box. The sulphurous fumes will descend 



244 



Shipping Orates. 



and deal out death to all moth larvse. This should always be 
done before shipping the honey, if we regard our reputations 
as precious. It is Avell to do this immediately upon removal, 
and also two weeks after, so as to destroy the moth larva? not 
hatched when the sections are removed. 

If separators have been used, these sections are in good con- 
dition to be glassed, and are also in nice shape to ship even 
without glass, as they may stand side by side and not mar the 
comb. 

The shipping-crate (Fig. 116) should be strong, neat and 
cheap, with handles as seen in Fig. 116 — such handles are also 

Fig. 116. 




convenient in the ends of the hives, and can be cut in an in- 
stant by having the circular-saw set to wabble. With handles 
the crate is more convenient, and is more sure to be set on its 
bottom. The crate should also be glassed, as the site of the 
comb will say: "Handle with care." 

Mr. Heddon makes a larger crate (Fig. 117), which is neat 
and cheap. Muth's crate is like Heddon's, only smaller. 

It may be well to wrap the sections in paper, as thus break- 
age of one will not mean general ruin. 

In shipping in freight cars, it is desirable that the sections 
be set lengthwise of the cars, as the danger from the shocks of 
starting and stopping will be much less. 

In groceries, where the apiarist keeps honey for sale, it 
will pay him to furnish his own boxes. These should be made 
of white wood, very neat and glassed in front to show the 
honey, and the cover so fixed that unglassed sections — and 
these, probably, will soon become the most popular — cannot 
be punched or fingered. Be sure, too, that the label, with 
kind of honey, grade and name of apiarist, be so plain that 
"he who runs may read." 



Selling Queens 



245 



Comb-honey that is to be kept in the cool weather of 
autumn, or the cold of winter, must be kept in warm rooms, 
or the comb will break from the sections when handled. By 

Fig. 117. 




keeping it quite warm for some days previous to shipment, it 
may be sent to market even in winter, but must be handled 
very carefully, and must make a quick transit. 

Above all, let "taste and neatness" ever be your motto. 

MARKETING BEES. 

Before leaving this subject, let me say a word about selling 
bees. 

SELLING QUEENS. 

As queen rearing and shipping have already been sufficient- 
ly described, it only remains to be said that the vender of 
queens can not be too prompt or fair or cautious. Success no 
less than morality demands the most perfect honesty. If, for 
any reason, queens can not be sent promptly, the money 
should at once be returned, explanation made, and, if reason- 
able, delay may be requested. The breeder who by careful 
selection, and care in folloAving the rules of breeding, shall 
secure a type of bees pronounced in excellence, has won in the 
race. 

I have described shipping bees. The rules just given should 
guide here also. 



246 



Vinegar front Honey. 



SELLING BEES BY THE POUND. 

This is now quite a business. The bees are put, by use of 
a large tin tunnel, into a cage (Fig. 118) made of sections as 

Fig. 118. 




shown in the figure. The handle makes it easy to carry th 
and they get careful handling without any special request. 

VINEGAR FROM HONEY. 

Mr. T. F. Bingham utilizes the cappings secured while ex- 
tracting, to produce wax and a most excellent quality of vin- 
egar. The honey is drained from the cappings, which are then 
covered for an hour or two with water. The cappings from 
1,000 pounds of honey will sweeten enough water for 45 gal- 
lons of vinegar. The water is now drained into an open bar- 
rel, which should be kept covered with cloth. The scum should 
be removed as it rises. In about a year the change to first- 
class vinegar will have been accomplished. After the water 
is drained from the cappings they fan be converted into pure 
wax, as already described. 

FAIRS AND THE MARKET. 

Our English friends have demonstrated that large honey ex- 
hibitions are a most powerful aid. in developing the honey 
market. 

Till within two years our American honey exhibits have 
been a disgrace and a hindrance, and they are largely so to- 
day. A little second-rate honey sandwiched in with sugar 



Fair*. 



241 



and syrups, and supplemented by a cake or two of black 
dirty wax, describes the honey exhibit at most of our fairs to- 
day. The premiums range from, twenty-five cents to fifty 
cents. 

WHAT .SHOULD WE HAVE? 

Our industry demands a separate building, filled with tons, 
not pounds, of honey, and exhibiting every thing that is valu- 
able in modern apiculture. In one corner of the building 
there should be a room (Fig. 119) partitioned off with mosqui- 




to netting, or wire cloth, where the bees should be exhibited, 
and where daily manipulation at a certain time should take 
place. Openings through the wall of the building (Fig. 120, 
B. C. etc.) should permit the bees to fly entirely outside the 
building, or if the building is at the margin of the grounds 
entirely outside the limits of the fair. It should be arranged 
with the managers that sales of honey and all apparatus be 



248 Fairs. 

made at any time at this building, on conditions that the ex- 
hibit should be in nowise interfered with. The premiums 

Fig. 120. 




should range from one dollar to twenty, and the total should 
reach to the hundreds. 

We find here in Michigan that all that is necessary to effect 
this grand and invaluable transformation is a little life and 
energy on the part of the bee-keepers. 

EFFECTS OF SUCH EXHIBITS. 

They would show that apiculture is no second rate business. 
They would attract attention and educate as nothing else 
would. They would go hand in hand with local conventions 
in instructing bee-keepers so that no inferior honey would go 
onto the markets. They would enable bee-keepers to see and 
buy just what they need in the more intelligent prosecution of 
their business. They would scatter the little pint, half-pint, 
and gill pails of honey into thousands of homes, and develop 
a knowledge and taste that would stimulate the haney market 
most powerfully. Tons of honey have been sold at the Toronto 
Fairs, the influence of which has been a lasting surprise even 
to the most enterprising producers. I believe that the great 
quartet that is to advance apiculture is fairs, associations, 
planting for honey, and improved bees. 



dip Tree Louse. 



249 



CHAPTER XVII. 



HONEY PLANTS. 

As bees are dependent mainly upon flowers for honey, it of 
course follows that the apiarist's success will depend largely 
upon the abundance of honey-secreting plants in the vicinity 
of , his apiary. True it is that certain bark and plant lice 
secrete a kind of liquid sweet — honey of doubtful reputation — 
which, in the dearth of anything better, the bees seem glad to 
appropriate. I have thus seen the bees thick about a large 
bark-louse which attacks the tulip tree, and thus often destroys 
one of our best honey trees. 

I have described this insect (Fig. 121) under the name of 
Lemnium. Tulvpifera. In 1870 it did no small injury to our 





Tulip- Tree Bark Louse. 



1— Scale on Twig. 
8, 4— Young Lice. 
5-Leg. 



2— Under side of Scale. 
6— Antenna. 



250 Larch Lome. 

tulip trees here at the college. It has seriously injured this 
tree in the states bordering the Ohio river. The tulip is often 
called poplar, which is quite incorrect. The poplar belongs to 
the willow family, the tulip to the magnolia. This louse is of 
double interest to bee-keepers. It ruins one of our best honey 
trees, and supplies a poor substitute for plant nectar to the 
bees. All bark lice, which include the orange tree scale lice 
of the south, are best destroyed by use of whale oil soap — 
strong solution — or kerosene oil. This latter is best applied in 
the form of an emulsion, with soap solution or milk. Whit- 
man's Fountain Pump is admirable for making such applica- 
tions. 

I have also seen the bees thick about several species of plant 
lice. One, the BJrisoma imbricator, Fitch, works on the beech 
tree. Its abdomen is thickly covered with long wool, and it 
makes a comical show as it wags this up and down upon the 
least disturbance. The leaves of trees attacked by this louse, 
as also those beneath the trees, are fairly gummed with a 
sweetish substance. I have found that the bees avoid this 
substance, except at times of extreme drouth and long pro- 
tracted absence of honeyed bloom. 

Another species, Tlialaxe* idmicola, gives rise to certain soli- 
tary galls, which appear on the upper surface of the leaves of 
the red elm. These galls are hollow, with a thin skin, and 
within the hollows are the lice, which secrete an abundant 
sweet that often attracts the bees to a feast of fat things, as the 
gall is torn apart, or cracks open, so that the sweet exudes. 
This sweet is anything but disagreeable, and may not be un- 
wholesome to the bees. The larch louse, Lachnus laricis, se- 
cretes a liquid that is greedily taken by the bees. 

Another of the aphides, of a black hue, works on the 
branches of our willows, which they often entirely cover, and 
thus greatly damage another tree valuable for both honey and 
pollen. Were it not that they seldom are so numerous two 
years in succession, they would certainly banish from among 
us one of our most ornamental and valuable honey-producing 
trees. These are fairly thronged in September and October, 
and not unfrequently in spring and summer if the lice are 
abundant, by bees, wasps, ants, and various two-winged flies, 
all eager to lap up the oozing sweets. This louse is the Laeh- 
mis dentatus, of Le Baron, and the Aphis mlicti of Harris. 



Sycamore Louse. 



251 



The past summer I have received from apiarists of Indiana 
and Ohio, a very large, dark gray, plant louse which worked 
on the sycamore, and is reported from both states as keeping 
the bees actively employed for some weeks. This louse is one- 
fourth of an inch long. The winged, lice measure three- 
eights of an inch to the tips of their wings. 

The veins of the wings, as also the short nectaries — the tubes 
at the posterior part of the abdomen — show that this louse 
(Fig. 122) belongs to the Genus Lachnus. The lice of the 
Genus Aphis — of which there are innumerable species — have 

Fig. 122. 




Female. 



Fig 123. 



Male. 





Female. 



Male. 



longer nectaries (Fig. 123), from which ooze large drops of 
nectar. This is much relished by the ants, which often care 
for these lice as tenderly as for their own young. 



252 



Honey Dew. 



Doubtless many have supposed that the bees were gathering 
a real honey dew, when closer inspection would have shown 
that some species of plant lice was wholly responsible. I think 
that very often this nectar from plant lice is entirely wholesome 
and unobjectionable. 



REAL HONEY DEW. 



Bees also get, in some regions, a sort of honey-dew, which 
enables them to add to their stores with surprising rapidity. 

Fig. 124. 

0- 




Cow Pea. 
a, a— Glands. b— Flower. c— Pods. 

I remember one morning while riding on horseback along the 
Sacramento river, in California, I broke off a willow twig 



Bees mid Grapes. 253 

beside the road when, to ray surprise, I found it was fairly 
decked with drops of honey. Upon further examination I 
found the willow foliage was abundantly sprinkled by these 
delicious drops. These shrubs were undisturbed by insects, 
nor were they under trees. Here then was a real case of honey- 
dew, which must have been distilled through the night by the 
leaves. I never saw any such phenomenon in Michigan, yet 
others have. Dr. A. H. Atkins, an accurate and conscientious 
observer, has noted this honey-dew more than once here in 
Central Michigan. Many bee-keepers have noticed the same 
thing. 

Many plants, like the Cotton and Cow Pea (Fig. 124) of 
the South, have extra floral glands which secrete nectar. In 
case of the Cow Pea these glands are on the peduncles or flow- 
er stems, just at the base of the flowers (Fig. 124, a, a). 
Prof. Trelese thinks that this nectar serves the plant by at- 
tracting bees, wasps, etc., which keep injurious insects from 
attacking it. 

SWEET SAP AND JUICES. 

Bees often gather much nectar from the stubble of wheat 
that is cut early, while the straw is yet green. The sap from 
the maple and other trees and plants also furnishes them 
sweets. They gather juices of questionable repute from about 
cider mills, some from grapes and other fruit which have been 
crushed, or eaten and torn by wasps and other insects. That 
bees ever tear the grapes is a question of which I have failed 
to receive any personal proof, though for years I have been 
carefully seeking it. I have lived among the vineyards of 
California, and have often watched bees about vines in Mich- 
igan, but never saw bees tear open the grapes. I have laid 
crushed, grapes in the apiary, 'when the bees were not gather- 
ing, and were ravenous for stores, which, when covered with 
sipping bees, were replaced with sound grape-clusters, which 
in no instance were mutilated. I have even shut bees in emp- 
ty hives on warm days and closed the entrance with grape 
clusters, which even then were not cut. I have thus been led 
to doubt if bees ever attack sound grapes, though quick to 
improve the opportunities which the oriole's beak and the 
stronger jaws of wasps offer them. My friend Prof. Prentiss 
suggests that when the weather is very warm and damp, and 



254 Valuable Honey Plant*. 

the grapes very ripe, the juice may ooze through small open- 
ings of the grapes and so attract the bees. It is at just such 
times that attacks are observed. Still, Dr. C. V. Riley feels 
sure that bees are sometimes thus guilty, and Mr. Bidwell tells 
me he has seen bees rend sound grapes, which they did with their 
feet. Yet, if this is the case, it is Certainly of rare occur- 
rence, and is more than compensated by the great aid which 
the bees afford the fruit-grower in the great work of cross-fer- 
tilization, which is imperatively necessary to his success, as 
has been so well shown by Dr. Asa Gray and Mr. ' Chas. Dar- 
win. It is true that cross-fertilization of the flowers, which 
can only be accomplished by insects, and early in the season 
by the honey-bee, is often, if not always, necessary to a full 
yield of fruit and vegetables. In diecious plants, like the 
willows and most nut bearing trees, the stamens that bear the 
pollen or male element, are on one plant, and the pistils that 
grow the ovules — the female element — on another. Here 
then insects must act as ' ' marriage priests " that fructification 
may be accomplished at all. In other plants where the organs 
are all in the same flower, fertilization is wholly dependent on 
insects. In cases like the red clover where fertilization is 
possible without aid, my colleague, Prof. Beal, ha* shown 
that unless insects are present, the yield of seed is meager in- 
deed. The seeds in the uncovered blossoms were to those in 
the covered as 236 : 5. There is then entire reciprocity between 
the bees and flowers. The bees are as necessary to the plants 
as are the plants to the bees. I am informed by Prof. W. 
W. Tracy, that the gardeners in the vicinity of Boston keep 
bees that they may perform this duty. Even then, if Mi-. 
Bidwell and Prof. Riley are right, and the bee does, rarely — 
for surely this is very rare, if ever — destroy grapes, still they 
are, beyond any possible question, invaluable aids to the pomoi- 
ogist. That bees ever injure blossoms and thus effect. damage 
to the fruitage of such plants as buckwheat — or to any plants 
— as is sometimes claimed, is utterly absurd and without foun- 
dation. 

But the principal source of honey is still from the flowers. 

WHAT ARE THE VALUABLE HONEY PLANTS? 

In the northeastern part of our country the chief reliance, 
for May, is the fruit-blossoms, willows, and sugar maples. In 



Valuable Honey Plants. 255 

June, white clover, Alsike clover, and raspberries yield large- 
ly of the most attractive honey, both as to appearance and 
flavor. In July, the incomparable basswood makes both bees 
and apiarist jubilant. In August, buckwheat offers a tribute, 
which we welcome, though it be dark and pungent in flavor, 
while with us in Michigan, August and September give us a 
profusion of bloom which yields to no other in the richness of 
its capacity to secrete honey, and is not cut off" till the autumn 
frosts — usually about September 15. 

Thousands of acres of golden rod, boneset, asters, -and 
other autumn flowers of our new northern counties, as yet 
have blushed unseen, with fragrance wasted. This unoccu- 
pied territory, unsurpassed in its capability for fruit produc- 
tion, covered with grand forests of maple and basswood, and 
spread with the richest of autumn bloom, offers opportunities 
to the practical apiarist rarely equaled except in Texas and the 
Pacific States. In these localities one or two hundred pounds 
a season to the colony and its increase, is no surprise to the 
apiarist, while even four or five hundred are not isolated 
cases. 

In the following table will be found a list of valuable honey 
plants'. Those in the first column are annual, biennial, or 
perennial ; the annual being enclosed in a parenthesis thus : ( ) ; 
the biennial enclosed in brackets thus : [ ] ; while those in the 
second column are shrubs or trees ; the names of shrubs being 
enclosed in a parenthesis. The date of the commencement of 
bloom is, of course, not invariable. The one appended, in 
case of plants which grow in our State, is about average for 
Central Michigan. Those plants whose names appear in small 
capitals yield very superior honey. Those with (a) are use- 
ful for other purposes than honey secretion. All but those 
with a * are native or very common in Michigan. Those writ- 
ten in the plural refer to more than one species. Those fol- 
lowed by a t are very numerous in species. Of course I have 
not named all, as that would include some hundreds which 
have been observed at the college, taking nearly all of the two 
great orders, Compositse and Rosacea. I have only aimed to 
give the most important, omitting many foreign plants of no- 
toriety, as I have had no personal knowledge of them. 



256 



Honey Plants. 



Date. 


Annuals or Perennials. 


• 




Skunk Cabbage. 

Dandelion. 

Strawberry. («) 

-Ball, Black or Blue Sage— California. 
"■White Sage— California. 
(Seven-Top Turnip). 
*Hore hound— California. 
-Sumac— California. 
*Coft'ee Berry — California. 
-Horse Mint— South. 

False Indigo. 

Lupine. 

Ground Ivy or Sill. 
(Cow Pea.) («)— South. 
-Stone Crop, South. 

Mammoth Red Clover. («) 
-California Fig wort— California. 
(Hemp), fa). 

White Clover, (a) 

Alsike Clover, (a) 
-[Sweet Clover.] 
-Horehbund. 

Ox-eyed Daisy— Bad Weed. 

Bush Honeysuckle. 
-(Partridge Pea). 

Matrimony Vine. 
*Sage. 

Mother-wort. 
"(Borage). 
*(C'otton). (a). 

Silk or Milk Weeds, 
i Mustard)! 
-(Rape), (co- 
st. John's Wort. 
(Mignonette), (o) 
i( !orn i. la) 
-(Teasel), («) 

Basils orMt. Mint. 

Catnip. (a) 

Asparagras. (a) 

-(Rocky Mountain Bee Plant). 
-Viper's Rugloss (Blue Thistle). 

Blue Vervain or Verbena. 

White Vervain or Verbena. 

Marsh Milk- Weed. 

Boneset. 

Bergamot. 

Figwort. 

Giant Hyssop. 

Malva. 

Iron Weed. 

Culver's Root. 

Indian Plantains. 
(Buckwheat), (a) 
(Snap-dragon). 

(Touch Me Not or Swamp Balsam). 
(Great Willow Herb Fire Weed.) 

Golden Honey Plant. 

Large Smart Weed. 
-(Spider Flower). 
(Golden Rod), f 

Asters, f 

Marsh Sunflower, f 

Tick-Seed, f 

Beggar-Ticks, t 

Spanish Needles, t 

Rattlesnake Root or Tall White Lettuce. 




April and May 




April and May 








May 




May 




May and June 




May and June 




May and June 




May and June 




May and June 




May and June 








May to Fall 








June 




June to July 




June to July 




June to July 




June to July 




June to July 




June to July 




June and July 

June to August 








June to August 




June to frost 




June to frost 




June to frost 




June to frost 








June to frost 




June to frost 








July 




July to August 




July to August 




July to August 




July to August 




July to August 




J uly to August 




July to August 




July to August 




July to frost 




J uly to frost 




July to frost 




July to frost 




July to frost 




July to frost 




July to frost 




July to frost 




August 




August 




August 




August to September.. 
August to September.. 

August to frost 




August to frost 




August to frost 




August to frost 




August to frost 




August to frost 




August to frost 





Bee Shrubs and Trees. 



257 



Date. 



January to May 

January to May 

February to June 

March 

April 

April 

April 

April 

April 

April and May 

April and May 

May 

May 

May 

May 

May 

May 

May 

May 

May 

May 

May 

May 

May : 

May 

May 

May 

May 

May and June 

May and June 

May and June 

May and June 

May and June 

May and June 

June 

June 

June 

June 

June 

June 

June to July 

June to July 

July : 

July 

July : 

June and July 

July 

July 

July to August 

July to September 

August 

August to September .. 

August to frost 

August to December ... 
August to January 



Shrubs or Trees. 



-Manzanita— California. 
-(Willow) f — California. 
(Gall Berry)— South. 
"Orange, South. 

Box Elder or Ash-Leaf Maple. 

Red or Soft Maplei (a) 

Poplar or Aspen. 

Silver Maple. 

Judas Tree — South. 
(Willows) f also Trees. 
*Judas Tree— South. 
(Shad-Bush). 
(Alder). 

Maples-Sugar Maple, (a) 

( 'rab Apple. 
(Hawthorns). 

Fruit Trees— Apple, Plum, Cherry, Pear, etc. (a) 
(Currant and Gooseberry), (a) 
-(Wistaria Vine — .South). 
(Chinese Wistaria Vine— South). 
(Japan Privet)— South. • 

Varnish Tree— South. 

Acacia — South. 

Black Gum — South. 
(Bladder Nut). 

Persimmon (a) — South. 

Saw Palmetto— South. 

Buckeye. 
(Barberry). 
(Grape-Vine). (a). 

Tulip-tree. 
(Sumac). 

Buch Thorn — South. 

Black Mangrove— Florida. 

Magnolias — South. 

Honey Locust. 

Wild-Plum. 
(Black Raspberry), (a) 

Locusts. 

(Red Raspberry), (a) 
(Blackberry). 
"SourAvood— South. 
(Button Bush). 

Basswood. (a) 
(Virginia Creeper), (a) 
-Cabbage Palmetto— South. 
-Blue Gum — California. 

Catalpa. (a) ' 

*Pepper-tree — California. 
*(St. John's Worts). 
(Late Sumac). 

Indian Currant or Coral Berry- 
-Red Gum— California. 

Japan Plum — South. 
(Germander or Wood Sage). 



17 



258 



Bee Pasturage. 



DESCRIPTION, WITH PRACTICAL REMARKS. 

As this subject of bee pasturage is of such prime import- 
ance, and as the interest in the subject is so great and wide- 
spread, I feel that details with illustrations will be more than 
warranted. 

We have abundant experience to show that forty or fifty 




Sugar Maple. 

colonies of bees, take the seasons as they average, are all that 
a single place will sustain to the greatest advantage. Then 
how significant the fact, that when the season is the best, full three 



March and April Plants. 259 

times that number of colonies will find ample resources to 
keep all employed. So this subject of artificial pasturage be- 
comes one well worthy close study and observation. The 
subject, too, is a very important one in reference to the loca- 
tion of the apiary. 

It is well to remember in this connection, that while bees do 
sometimes go from five to seven miles for nectar, two or three 
miles should be regarded as the limit of profitable gathering. 
That is, apiaries of from fifty to one hundred or more colonies, 
should not be nearer than four or five miles of each other. 

MARCH PLANTS. 

In Florida the orange gives early bloom, and the thousands 
of trees in that land, not only of flowers but of honey, will 
have no small influence in building up the colonies for the 
grand harvest of mangrove and palmetto soon to follow. 

The gall-berry of the south commences to bloom even in 
February, and yields abundant nectar. In Florida this shrub 
gives the main supply of honey during the swarming season. 

APRIL, PLANTS. 

As we have already seen, the apiarist does not secure the 
best results, even in the early spring, unless the bees are en- 
couraged by the increase of their stores of pollen and honey; 
hence, in case we do not practice stimulative feeding — and 
many will not — it becomes very desirable to have some early 
bloom. Happily, in all sections of the United States our de- 
sires are not in vain. 

Early in spring there are many scattering wild flowers, as 
skunk cabbage, Symplocarpus fcetidus, which supplies abund- 
ant pollen and some honey ; the blood-root, Sanguinaria Can- 
adensis, liver-leaf, Hepatica acutiloba, and various others of 
the crow-foot family, as also many species of cress, which be- 
long to the mustard family, and the gay dandelion, Tdraxtfr 
cum dens-leonis, which keeps on blooming for weeks, etc. , all 
of which are valuable and important. 

The maples (Fig. 125), which are all valuable honey plants, 
also contribute to the early stores. Especially valuable are 
the silver maples, Acer dasycarpum, the red or soft maples, 
Acer rubrum, and the box elder or ash-leaf maple, Negundo 
aceroides, as they bloom so very early, long before the leaves 



260 



April Plants. 



appear. The bees work on these, here in Michigan, the first 
week of April, and often in March. They are also magnifi- 
cent shade trees, especially those that have the weeping habit. 
Their early bloom is very pleasing, their summer form and fo- 

Fig. 126. 



Fig. 127. 





Judas Tree. 



Willow. 



liage beautiful, while their flaming tints in autumn are inde- 
scribable. The foreign maples, sycamore, Acer pseudo-plata- 
)ius, and Norway, Acer platanoides, are also very beautiful. 
Whether superior to ours as honey plants, I am unable to say. 
The willows, too, (Fig. 126) rival the maples in the early 
period of bloom. Some are very early, blossoming in March, 
while others, like the white willow, Salix alba (Fig. 126), 
bloom in May. The flowers on one tree or bush of the willow 
are all pistillate, that is, have pistils but no stamens, while 
on others they are all staminate, having no pistils. On the 
former, bees can gather only honey, on the latter only pollen. 
That the willow furnishes both honey and pollen is attested 
by the fact that I saw both kinds of trees, the pistillate and 
the staminate, thronged with bees the past season. The wil- 
low, too, from its elegant form and silvery foliage, is one of our 
finest shade trees. It grows everywhere in the United States. 



May Plants 1 . 



261 



In the south of Michigan, and thence southward to Ken- 
tucky, and even beyond, the Judas tree, or red-bud, Cerci? 
Canadensis (Fig. 127), is not only worthy of cultivation as a 
honey plant, but is also very attractive, and well deserving of 
attention for its ornamental qualities alone. This blooms 
from March to May, according to the latitude. 

The poplars — not the tulip — also bloom in April, and are 
freely visited by the bees. The wood is immaculate, and|is 
used for toothpicks. Why not use it for sections ? 

In California, the unique and exquisite Manzanitas (species 
of Arctostaphylos) together with the willows and many other 
flowering plants keep the bees busy from January till May. 

MAY PLANTS. 

In May we have the grand sugar maple, Acer saccharinum 
(Fig. 125), incomparable for beauty, also all our various fruit 
trees, peach, cherry, plum, apple, etc.; in fact all the Rosacea 

Fig. 128. 




American Wistaria. 

family. Our beautiful American Wistaria, Wistaria frutes- 
cens (Fig. 128), the very ornamental climber, or the still more 
lovely Chinese Wistaria, Wistaria sinensis (Fig. 129), which 
has longer racemes than the native, and often blossoms twice in 
the season. These are the woody twiners for the apiarist. 



262 



May Plants. 



The barberry, too, Berberis vulgaris (Fig. 130), comes after 
fruit blossoms, and is thronged with bees in search of nectar 



Fig. 129. 




Fig. 130. 




Barberry. 



Chinese Wistaria. 

in spring, as with children in winter, in quest of the beautiful 
scarlet berries, so pleasingly tart. 

In California, the sumac, the horehound, the famous black 
sage (Fig. 131), Audibertia Palmeri, or more correctly 
Treehodema, lanatum, (there are two other species less common,) 
with its most beautiful and delicious honey, and the more 
common, and hardly less excellent white sage, Audibertia 
polydachia, (Fig. 132), keep the bees roaring with activity, 
in favorable seasons, from April even into June. 



May Plants. 
Fig. 131. 



263 




H 1- 



■ ' ■ .'V,'..: ■ ' l .iV ■ 

4^ -»*«■> #j*@£HBi&€$Hfc ^w 



rj! m3'iW ^* 









WMAL 









^h 




l> Ve4 <f p g. 



5«Z/ or Black Sage., 



264 



May Plant*. 
Fig. 132. 




White Sage. 



May Plants. 



265 



In the South, as I learn from that able apiarist, Dr. J. H. 
P. Brown, they are no less favored. The Japan Privet, the 
varnish tree, the acacia, the black gum and the persimmon, 
stir the bees up to their best endeavor in May. The banana 
blooms not only in May, but, as Mr. W. S. Hart, of Florida, 
writes me, it is in blossom the year around. So rich are 
the flower tubes in nectar that Mr. Hart says he could soon 
gather a tea-cup full by hand of clear beautiful nectar of good 
flavor. 

Fig. 133. 




Horse Mini. 



The horse-mint (Fig. '133), Monarda aristata, is sending 
the bees loaded to their hives with its peculiar aromatic nectar. 
This with the buckthorn yields honey into June. 



2m 



June Plants. 



The Saw Palmetto, Sable serulata, forms a dense growth and 
makes clearing the land no small expense in Florida. The 
slim trunk creeps along the ground for twenty feet and sends roots 
beneath for nourishment. The leaves arise from this stem and 
are from four to six feet long. The clusters of small yellowish - 
white blossoms are immense in size. The blossoms last from 
the middle of April till June. The honey is yellow, thick 
and fine. The fruit of this palm is about twice the size of the 
Concord grape, and from October till Christmas the oozing 
nectar keeps the bees at work. This is dark honey but very 
good for stimulative feeding. 

JUNE PLANTS. 

With June comes the incomparable white or Dutch clover, 
Trifolium repem (Fig. 134), whose chaste and modest bloom 
betokens the beautiful, luscious, and unrivaled sweets which 

Fig. 134. 




White or Dutch Clover. 

are hidden in its corolla tube. Also its sister, Alsike or Swed- 
ish, Trifolium hybrida (Fig. 135), which seems to resemble 
both the white and red clover. It is a stronger grower than 
the white, and has a whitish blossom tinged with pink. This 
forms excellent pasture and hay for cattle, sheep, etc., and 
may well be sown by the apiarist. It will often pay apiarists 
to furnish neighboring farmers with seed as an inducement to 
grow this excellent honey plant. Like white clover, it 



June Plants. 267 

blooms all through June into July. Both of these should 
be sown early in spring with timothy, five or six pounds of 
seed to the acre, in the same manner that red clover seed is 
sown. By cutting Alsike clover just as it commences to bloom 
it may be made to come into blossom the second time, so as 
just to fill the vacant space in August. This is a very im- 
portant fact, and may well be acted upon. 

Sweet clover, yellow, and white, Melilotus officinalis (Fig. 
136) and Melilotus alba, are well named. They bloom from 
the middle of June to the first of October. Their perfume 
scents the air for long distances, and the hum of bees that 
throng their flowers is like music to the apiarist's ear. The 
honey, too, is just exquisite. These clovers are biennial, not 
blooming the first season, and dying after they bloom the sec- 
ond season. They perpetuate themselves, however, through 
the seed so as to really become perennial. A disagreeable fact 
is that they have little value, except for honey. It is as- 
serted by some that they give fair pasturage for stock and are 
excellent for soiling and green manuring. They are said to 
become pernicious weeds if allowed to spread. The Bokhara 
clover is only a variety of the above, though Mr. D. A. Jones 
thinks it quite superior to the others. 

The other clovers — lucerne, yellow trefoil, scarlet trefoil, and 
alfalfa — have not proved of any value with us, perhaps owing 
to locality. 



268 



June Plants. 
Fig. 135. 




Ah ike Clover. 



June Plants 
Fig. 136. 



269 




w 

Melilot Clover. 

Borage, Borago offichialis (Fig. 137), an excellent bee 
plant, blooms from June till frost, and is visited by bees even 

Fig. 137. Fig. 138. 





Mignonette. 



Borage. 



in very rainy weather. It seems not to be a favorite, but is 
eagerly visited when all otters fail to yield nectar. 



270 



June Plants 



Mignonette, Reseda odorata (Fig. 138), blooms from the 
middle of June till frost, is unparalleled for its SAveet odor, 
furnishes nectar in profusion, and is well worthy cultivation. 
It does not secrete well in wet weather, but in favorable 
weather it is hardly equalled. 




Okra. 
Okra, or gumbo, Hibiscus escxdentus (Fig. 139), also blooms 

Fig. 140. 




Mint. 



June Plants. 



271 



in June. It is as much sought after by the bees in quest of 
honey, as by the cook in search of a savory vegetable, or one 
to give tone to soup. 

Sage, Salvia officinalis, horehound, Marrubivm vulgart, 
motherwort, Leonnrtis cardiaca, and catnip, Nepeta cataria,. 
which latter does not commence to bloom till July, all furnish 
nice white honey, remain in bloom a long time, and are very . 

Fig. 141. 




Motherwort. 



desirable, as they are in bloom in the honey dearth of July 
and August. They, like many others of the mint family 
(Fig. 140), are thronged with bees during the season of bloom. 
The first and last are of commercial importance, while very 



272 



June Plants. 



few of our native plants afford so much nectar, are such favor- 
ites with the bees, and are so independent of weather as moth- 
erwort (Fig. 141). It is crowded with bees from the dawn of 
its bloom till the last flower withers. By cutting it back in 
May it can be made to blossom just at the dearth of nectar- 
secreting bloom; otherwise it comes in June and early July, 
just when Linden is yielding its precious harvest. Few plants 
are more desirable to sow in waste places. 

The silk or milk-weed furnishes abundant nectar from June 
to frost, as there are several species of the genus Asclepias, 
which is wide-spread in our country. This is the plant which 
has large pollen masses which often adhere to the legs of bees 
(Fig. 142), and sometimes so entrap them as to cause their 
death. Prof. Riley once very graciously advised planting 
them to kill bees. I say graciously, as I have watched these 
very closely, and am sure they do little harm, and are rich in " 
nectar. Seldom a bee gets caught so as to hold it long, and 

Fig. 143. 



Fig. 142. 





Pollen oflMilk-Weed. 



BlacfyMmtard. 



when these awkward masses are carried away*with the bee, 
they are usually left at the door of the hive, where I have 
often seen them in considerable numbers. The river bank 



June Plant* 



27; 



Hard by our apiary is lined with these sweet-smelling herbs, 
and we would like even more. 

Black mustard, Sinapis nigra (Fig. 143), white mustard, 
Sinapis alba, and rape, Brassica campestris (Fig. 144), all look 
much alike, and are all admirable bee plants, as they furnish 
much and beautiful honey. The first, if self-sown, blooms with 
us July 1st, the others June 1st; the first about eight weeks after 
sowing, the others about four. The mustards bloom for four 
weeks, rape for three. These are all specially commendable, 
as they may be made to bloom during the honey dearth of 
July and August, and are valuable plants to raise for seed. 
Rape seems to be very attractive to insects, as the flea beetles 
and the blister beetles are often quite too much for it, though 
they do not usually destroy the plants till after they have 
blossomed. I have several times purchased what purported 



Fig. 144 




Rape. 

to be Chinese mustard, dwarf and tall, but Prof. Beal, than 
whom there is no better authority, tells me they are only the 
white and black, and certainly they are no whit better as bee 
plants. These plants, with buckwheat, the mints, borage, 
and mignonette, are specially interesting, as they cover, or may 
be made to cover, the honey dearth from about Julv 20th to 
August 20th. 

18 * ■ 



274 



June Plants. 



The mustards and rape may be planted in drills about eight 
inches apart, any time from May 1st to July 15th. ' Four 
quarts will sow an acre. 

In this month blooms the tulip tree, IAriodendron tulipifera 
(Fig. 145) — often called poplar in the South, which is not 
only an excellent honey producer, but is one of our most 
stately and admirable shade-trees. Now bloom the sumacs, 

Fig. 145 




Tu'ip 



though one species blooms in May, the wild plum, the rasp- 
berries, whose nectar is unsurpassed in color and flavor, and 



June Plants. 



275 



the blackberry. Corn yields largely of honey as well as pol- 
len, and the teasel, Dipsacus fullonwn (Fig. 146), is said, not 
only by Mr. Doolittle, but by English and German apiarists, 
to yield richly of beautiful honey. This last has commercial 
importance. The blackberry opens its petals in June, and also 
the fragrant locust, which, from its rapid growth, beautiful 
form and handsome foliage, would rank among our first shade 
trees, were it not that it is so tardy in spreading its canopy of 
green, and so liable to ruinous attack by the borers, which 



Fig. 146. 




Teasel. 

last peculiarity it shares with the incomparable maples. 
Washing the trunks of the trees in June and July with soft 
soap will in great part remove this trouble. 

In June the Mammoth Red Clover, Trifoliwn pratense, comes 
out in one mass of crimson. This, unlike common red clover, 
has flower tubes short enough for even the ligula of the black 
bee. It is pretty coarse for hay but excellent for pasture and 
for green manuring. The Partridge pea, Ckmia chamcecnsta 
(Fig. 147), furnishes abundant nectar, and like the Cow pea 
of the South has extra floral as well as floral glands. Lupine, 
Lupinus perennis, and gill or ground ivy, Nepeta gleehoma, 
commenced to blossom in May and now are fully out. This 
last is a mint, a near relative of catnip. The Matrimony Vine, 
Lycium vulyare, and the beautiful honey locust, GliditscMa 



276 



June Plants. 



triacardhos (Fig. 148;, are now full of life, as the bees come 
and go full-loaded with nectar. In California, the fig-wort, 




Partridge Pen. 

Scrophularia Californica, contributes to the honey supply. 
Our brothers of the South reap a rich harvest from the great 
staple, cotton, Gomfpium heroaceum (Fig. 149), which com- 
mences to bloom early in June, and remains in blossom even 
to October. This belongs to the same family — Mallow — as 
the hollyhock, and like it blooms and fruits through the sea- 
son. 

The Cow pea (Fig. 124) is not only good for bees, but for 
feed, and to enrich the soil. The Stone Crop, Sedum pulchel- 
lum, is another valuable honey plant of the South. In June 
the Magnolias (Fig. 150) — there are several species in the 
South — are in bloom. In many parts they commence to bios- 



June Plants. 



277 



som in May. One of the finest of these is the Magnolia, glaw 
ca (Fig. 150). One would suspect at once that it was a near 
relative of the Tulip tree. 



Fig. 148. 




Honey Locust. 



Cotton. 



278 



July Plant* 



JULY PLANTS. 



Early in this month opeus the far-famed bass wood or linden, 
Tilia Americana (Fig. 151), which for the profusion and 



Fig. 150. 




Magnolia . 

quality of its honey has no superior. Mr. Doolittle got 66 
pounds of honey from this source by a single colony in three 
days. There is rarely a year that it does not give us some of 



July Plant* 



279 



its incomparable nectar. The tree, too, from its great spread- 
ing top and fine foliage, is magnificent for shade. Five of these 



Fig. 151. 




Bassivood. 
trees are within two rods of my study window, and their grate- 
ful fragrance and beautiful form and shade have often been 
the subject of remark by visitors. 



280 



July Plants. 



Figwort, Scrophulario nodosa (Fig. 152), often called Rattle- 
Weed, as the seeds will rattle in the pod, and Carpenter's Square, 
as it has a square stalk, is an insignificant looking weed, with 



Fig. 152. 




Figwort. 

inconspicuous flowers, that afford abundant nectar from* the 
middle of July till frost. I have received almost as many for 
identification as I have of the asters and golden-rods. Prof. 
Beal remarked to me a year or two since, that it hardly seemed 




281 



ffev 






imm 




Rocky Mountain Bee-Plant. 



282 



July Plants 
Fig. 154. 




Boneset. 



July Plant*. 



283 



possible that it could be so valuable. "We cannot always 
rightly estimate by appearances alone. It is a very valuable 
plant to be scattered in waste iflaces. 

That beautiful and valuable honey plant, from Minnesota, 
Colorado and the Rocky Mountains, cleome, or the Rocky 
Mountain bee-plant, Cleome integrifolia (Fig. 153), if self- 
sown, or sown early in the spring, blooms by the middle of 
July and lasts for long weeks. Nor can anything be more gay 
than these brilliant flowers, alive with bees all through the 

Fin. 155. 




Button Ball. 

long fall. This should be planted in fall in drills two feet 
apart, the plants six inches apart in the drills. It will not 
grow if planted in the spring. The seeds, which grow in pods, 
are very numerous, and are said to be valuable for chickens. It 
does best on light soil. Now commence to bloom the numer- 
ous Eupatoriums, or bonesets, or thoroughworts (Fig. 154), 
Avhich fill the marshes of our country, and the hives as well, 
with their rich golden nectar. These are precursors of that 



284 



July Plants. 



profusion of this composite order, whose many species are 
even now budding in preparation for the sea of flowers which 
will deck the marsh-lands of August and September. Wild 
bergamot, also, Monarda figbtdom, which like the thistles is of 
importance to the apiarist, blooms in July. As before re- 



Fig. 156. 




Sour I loo J. 



marked this is one of the plants whose long flower tubes are 
pierced by the Bombus, and Xylocopa bees. Then the honey- 
bees help to gather the abundant nectar. This is a near relative 
of the southern horse mint which, as will be seen, it closely re- 
sembles. The golden honey plant, Actinomeris zquarrom, so 
praised by Dr. Tinker, and rattle-snake root, Nabahis altim- 



July Plants. 285 

mas, which swarms with bees all the day long, are also com- 
posite plants. 

The little shrub of our marshes,, appropriately named but- 
ton-bush, Cepludanthus becidentaUs (Fig. 155), also shares the 
attention of the bees with the linden ; while apiarists of the 
South find the sour-wood, or sorrel tree, Oxydendrum arbor&um 
(Fig. 156), a valuable honey tree. This belongs to the Heath 
family, which includes the far-famed heather bloom of Eng- 
land. It also includes our whortleberry, cranberry, blueberry, 
and one plant which has no enviable reputation, as furnishing 
honey which is very poisonous, even fatal to those who eat, 
the mountain laurel, Kahnia latifolia. Yet, a near relative 
which grows at the South, Andromeda nitida, is said to fur- 
nish beautiful and wholesome honey in great quantities. The 
Virginia creeper also blooms in July. I wish I could say 
that this beautiful vine, transplendent in autumn, is a favor- 
ite with the honey-bee. Though it often, nay always, swarms 
with wild bees when in blossom, yet I never saw a honey-bee 
visit the ample bloom amidst its rich, green, vigorous foliage. 

The St. John's wort, Hypericum, with its many species, both 
shrubby and herbaceous, offers bountiful contributions to the 
delicious stores of the honey-bee. The catnip, Nepeta cataria, 
and asparagus — which if uncut in spring will bloom in June — 
so delectable for the table, and so elegant for trimming table 
meats and for banquets in autumn, come now to offer their 
nectarian gifts. 

Basil or mountain mint, Pyenanthemum lanceolatum — we 
might almost include all the mints, the blue and white ver- 
vains, or verbenas, Verbena hastata, and V. stricta ; the iron 
weeds, Veronias ; the malvas, culvers root, Veronica Virginica 
— another of the figwort family; indian plantains, Cacalias, 
and vipers' bugloss — the so called blue thistle — all contribute to 
the apiary in July; the vipers' bugloss, Echium vulgare, though 
most common south is very abundant at Beeton, Canada. Mr. 
Jones has it growing all about his apiaries. I have never seen 
it in Michigan. It is a near relation of borage, and does not 
belong even to the family — Composite — of the thistles. 

In California, the blue gum and the red gum, Eucalyptus 
globulus, and E. rostrata, introduced from Australia, furnish 
honey from July and August till December. 

The catalpa, a very rapid growing tree, throws its large, 



286 



July Plants, 



showy blossoms to the breeze and bees in July. It is rapidly 
growing in favor as a shade tree, and is incomparable for posts. 
It lasts for a great many years when imbedded in the earth. 
But, ' ' the noblest Roman of them all" is the cabbage palmetto, 
Chamwrops palmetto (Fig. 157), as Mr. Hart, of Florida, says 



Fig. 157. 




Cabbage Palmetto. 

this is the linden of the south. It yields abundant honey r 
which, as all who saw and tasted it at the late Convention at 
Cincinnati, can vouch, is unsurpassed in flavor. Mr. Muth 
well said that he wished no finer. This tree grows to the 
heighth of seventy feet. The trunk is leafless to near the top, 
and varies little in size from the earth to the top. The small, 
white blossoms nestle among the long palm leaves in profusion, 
and are rich in both nectar and pollen, from June 1st till 
August. The tree is found from the Carolinas to the Gulf. 

At the same time with the above, the white blossoms of the 
black mangrove, Avicennia tomentosa, and its near relative, 
AiHcennla wUmgifolia, come forth with their abundant and" in- 
comparable nectar which hangs in drops. The honey from 
this and the cabbage palmetto is clear, and as fine and beauti- 



July Plants. 



287 



ful as that of white clover. This tree is confined to the Penin- 
sula of Florida, where it is regarded as the best honey plant 
that grows in that locality. 

Here we see the danger of common names. This is not a 
mangrove at all, though the leaves resemble those of the true 

Fig. 158. 




True Mangrove. 

mangrove, they are more tomentose or hairy, and, like that 
tree, it grows down to the very waters' edge, so it is not affected 



288 August and September Plant". 

by drouth. This is an evergreen, and forms an impenetrable 
thicket on the muddy shores of the sea. It belongs to the 
same family as our verbenas — the vervain family. 

The true mangrove (Fig. 158) has yellow blossoms, and 
like the renownd Banyan tree, sends numerous stems to the 
earth, each of which takes root. This tree belongs to the 
mangrove family, and is Rhizophora wangle. 

AUGUST AND SEPTEMBER PLANTS. 

The cultivated buckwheat, Fagopyrum escfulentwn (Fig. 
159), usually blooms in August, as it is sown the first of July 
— three pecks per acre is the amount to sow — but by sowing 
the first of June, it may be made to bloom the middle of July, 

Fig. 159. 




Buckwheat. 

when there is generally, in most localities, an absence of nec- 
tar-secreting flowers. The honey is inferior in color and flavor, 
though some people prefer this to all other honey. The silver- 
leaf buckwheat blooms longer, has more numerous flowers, 
and thus yields more grain than the common variety. 

Now come the numerous golden-rods. The species of the 
genus Solidago (Fig. 160), in the Eastern United States, 
number nearly two-score, and occupy all kinds of soils, and 



August and September Plants. 



289 



are at home on upland, prairie and morass. These abound in 
all parts of the United States. They yield abundance of rich, 
golden honey, with flavor that is unsurpassed by any other. 
Fortunate the apiarist who can boast of a thicket of Solida- 
goes in his locality. 

The many plants usually styled sun-flowers, because of their 
resemblance to our cultivated plants of that name, which 
deck the hill-side, meadow, and marsh-land, now unfurl their 
Fig. 160. 




Golden-Rod. 



Aster. 



showy involucres, and open their modest corollas, to invite 
the myriad insects to sip the precious nectar which each of the 
clustered flowers secretes. Our cultivated sunflowers, I think, 
are indifferent honey plants, though some think them big with 
beauty, and their seeds are relished by poultry. But the asters 
(Fig. 161), so wide-spread, the beggar-ticks, Bidens, and Span- 
ish-needles of our marshes, the tick-seed, Coreopsis, also, of the 
low, marshy places, with hundreds more of the great family 
Compositse, are replete with precious nectar, and with favor- 
able seasons make the apiarist who dwells in their midst jubi- 

19 



290 



August and September Plant*. 



lant, as he watches the bees which fairly flood the hives with 
the rich and delicious honey. In all of this great family,, 

Fig. 162. 




the flowers are small and inconspicuous, clustered in compact 
heads, and when the plants are showy with bloom, like the 



Practical Conclusions. 291 

sun-flowers, the brilliancy is due to the involucre, or bracts 
which serve as a frill to decorate the more modest flowers. 

The great Willow Herb, or Fire Weed, Epilobium angusti fo- 
lium, is often the source of immense honey harvests. The 
downy seeds blow to great distances, and finding a lodgment, 
their vitality makes them burst forth whenever brush is burn- 
ed or forest fires rage. Hence the name, Fire Weed. Anoth- 
er excellent fall honey plant of wide range is the Coral Berry 
or Indian Currant, Symphoricarpus vulgaris. The honey pro- 
duct of this plant is worthy its name. I close this account 
with mention of another Cleome, the famous Spider Plant (Fig. 
162), Cleome pungens. This plant thrives best in rich, damp 
clay soil. It is only open for a little time before night-fall 
and at early dawn, but when open its huge drops of nectar 
keep the bees wild with excitement, calling them up even be- 
fore daylight, and enticing them to the field long after dusk. 

I have thus mentioned the most valuable honey plants of 
our country. Of course there are many omissions. Let all 
apiarists, by constant observation, help to fill up the list. 

BOOKS ON BOTANY. 

I am often asked what books are best to make apiarists 
botanists. I am glad to answer this question, as the study of 
botany will not only be valuable discipline, but will also fur- 
nish abundant pleasure, and give important practical infor- 
mation. Gray's Lessons and Manual of Botany, in one vol- 
ume, published by L/ison, Phinney, Blakeman & Co., New 
York, is the most desirable treatise on this subject. A more 
recent work by Prof. C. E. Bessey, and published by Henry 
Holt & Co. , is also very excellent. 



PRACTICAL CONCLUSIONS. 

It will pay well for the apiarist to decorate his grounds with 
soft and silver maples, for their beauty and early bloom. If 
his soil is rich, sugar maples and lindens may well serve a 
similar purpose. The Judas and tulip trees, both North and 
South, may well be made to ornament his home. For vines, 
obtain the wistarias. 



292 Practical Conclusions. 

Sow and encourage the sowing of Alsike clover and silver- 
leaf buckwheat in your neighborhood. Be sure that your 
wife, children, and bees can often repair to a large bed of the 
new giant or grandiflora migonette, and remember that it, 
with figwort, spider plant, Rocky Mountain bee plant, and 
borage, bloom till frost. Study the bee plants of your region, 
&nd then study the above table, and provide for a succession, 
remembering that the mustards, rape, and buckwheat may be 
made to bloom almost at pleasure, by sowing at the proper 
time. Do not forget that borage and the mustards seem com- 
paratively indifferent to wet weather. Be sure that all waste 
places are stocked with motherwort, catnip, figwort, cleome, 
viper's bugloss, asters, etc. 

The above dates, unless specially mentioned, are only cor- 
rect for Michigan, Northern Ohio, and similar latitudes, and 
for more Southern latitudes must be varied, which, by com- 
parison of a few, as the fruit trees, becomes no difficult matter. 



Wintering Bees. 293 

CHAPTER XVIII. 

WINTERING BEES. 

This is a subject, of course, of paramount importance to 
the apiarist of the Northern States, as this is the rock on which 
some of even the most successful have recently split. Yet I 
come fearlessly to consider this question, as from all the mul- 
titude of disasters I see no occasion for discouragement. If 
the problem of successful wintering has not been solved al- 
ready, it surely will be, and that speedily. So important an 
interest was never yet vanquished by misfortune, and there is 
no reason to think that history is now going to be reversed. 
Of course this chapter has no practical value to the apiarists 
of the South and Pacific Coast. There safe wintering is as- 
sured, except as the careless bee-keeper permits starvation. 

THE CAUSES OF DISASTROUS WINTERING. 

I fully believe, and to no branch of this subject have I giv- 
en more thought, study, and observation, that all the losses 
may be traced to either unwholesome food, failure in late 
breeding of the previous year, extremes of temperature, or 
protracted cold with excessive dampness. I know from actual 
and wide-spread observation, that the severe loss of 1870 and 
1871 was attended in this part of Michigan with unsuitable 
honey in the hive. The previous autumn was unprecedent- 
edly dry. Flowers were rare, and storing was largely from 
insect secretion, and consequently the stores were unwhole- 
some. I tasted of honey from many hives only to find it nau- 
seating. 

Again, suppose that after the basswood season in July, 
there is no storing of honey, either from want of space, or 
from lack of bloom ; in this case brood-rearing ceases, yet 
if the weather is dry and warm, as of course it will be in 
August and September, the bees continue to wander about, 
and death comes apace, and by autumn the bees are reduced in 
numbers, old in days, and illy prepared to brave the winter 
and perform the duties of spring. I fully believe that if all 
the colonies of our State and country had been kept breeding 
by proper use of the extractor and feeding, even till into 



294 ' Wintering Bees — Good Food. 

October, we should have had a different record, especially as 
to spring dwindling and consequent death. In the autumn 
of 1872, I kept my bees breeding till the first of October. 
The following winter I had no loss, while my neighbors lost 
all of their bees. 

Extremes of heat and cold are also detrimental to the bees. 
•If the temperature of the hive becomes too high, the bees 
become restless, eat more than they ought, and if confined to 
their hives are distended with their feces, become diseased, 
besmear their comb and hives, and die. If when they become 
thus disturbed, they could have a purifying flight, all would 
be well. Again, if the temperature becomes extremely low, 
the bees to keep up the animal heat must take more food ; 
they are uneasy, exhale much moisture, -'diich may settle and 
freeze on the outer combs about the cluster, preventing the 
bees from getting the needed food, and thus in this case both 
dysentery and starvation confront the bees. That able and 
far-seeing apiarist, the lamented M. Quinby, was one of the 
first to discover this fact ; and here, as elsewhei*e, gave advice 
that if heeded would have saved great loss and sore disap- 
pointment. I have little doubt, in fact I know from actual 
investigation, that in the past severe winters, those bees which 
under confinement have been subject to severe extremes, were 
the ones that invariably perished. Had the bees been kept 
in a uniform temperature, ranging from 35° to 45° F. , the rec- 
ord would have been materially changed. 

Excessive moisture, especially in cases of protracted cold, 
is always to be avoided. Bees, like all other animals, are con- 
stantly giving oft* moisture, which of course "will be accelerat- 
ed if the bees become disturbed and are thus led to consume 
more food. This moisture not only acts as explained above, 
but also induces fungous growths. The mouldy comb is 
not wholesome, though it may never cause death. Hence 
another necessity for sufficient warmth to drive this moisture 
from the hive and some means to absorb it without opening 
the hive above and permitting a current, which will disturb 
the bees, and cause the greater consumption of honey. 

THE REQUISITE TO SAFE WINTERING — GOOD FOOD. 

To winter safely, then, demands that the bees have thirty 
pounds, by weight not guess — I have known three cases when 



Secure Late Breeding. 295 

guessing meant starvation, of good capped honey (coffee A 
sugar is just as good). If desired this may be fed as previ- 
ously explained, which should be done so early that all will 
he capped during the warm days of October. 

The bees should be able to pass over or through the combs. 
Hill's device — bent pieces placed above the frames so as to 
raise the cloth cover — will permit the first, while small holes 
•cut through the combs will enable the bees to pass from one 
comb to another without having to pass around. These holes 
may be .cut with a knife, or a tin tube the size of one's finger 
may be driven through the comb, and left in if desired, in 
which case the comb should be pushed out of the tube, and 
the tube should be no longer than the comb is thick. This 
preparatory work I always do early in October, when I ex- 
tract all uncapped honey, take out all frames after I have 
given each colony the thirty pounds, by weight, of honey, con- 
fine the space with a division-board, cover with the quilt and 
chaff, and then leave undisturbed till the cold of November 
calls for further care. I prefer that the combs have no pollen 
in them, and that they be so full of honey that six or eight will 
lae enough. Pollen usually does no harm, though sometimes 
it is injurious. The combs may well be one-half inch apart. 
If the bees have been neglected, and mid-winter finds them 
destitute of stores, then they should not be fed liquid honey, 
though this has sometimes been done with success, but either 
the Good or Viallon or some other solid candy should be placed 
on the frames just above the cluster. Or we- may run. the 
candy into a frame and hang it in the hive. 

SECURE LATE BREEDING. 

Keep the bees breeding till the first of October. Except 
in years of excessive drouth, this will occur in many parts "of 
the country without extra care. Failure may result from the 
presence of worthless queens. Any queens which seem not 
to be prolific should be superseded whenever the fact becomes 
evident. I regard this as most important. Few know how 
much is lost by tolerating feeble, impotent queens in the apia- 
ry, whose ability can only keep the colonies alive. Never 
keep such queens about. Here, then, is another reason for 
always keeping extra queens on hand. Even with excellen t 



296 Box for Packing. 

queens, a failure in the honey yield may cause breeding to 
cease. In such cases, we have only to feed as directed under 
the head of feeding. 

TO SECURE AND MAINTAIN THE PROPER TEMPERATURE. 

We ought also to provide against extremes of temperature. 
It is desirable to keep the temperature between 35° and 50° 
F., through the entire winter, from November to April. If 
no cellar or house is at hand, this may be accomplished as 
follows : Some pleasant, dry day in late October or early No- 
vember, raise the stand and place straw beneath ; then sur- 
round the hive with a box a foot outside the hive, with 
movable top, and open on the east ; or else have a long wooden 
tube, opposite the entrance, to permit flight; this tube 
should be six or eight inches square to permit easy examina- 
tion in winter. The same end may be gained by driving 
stakes and putting boards around. Then we crowd between 
the box and the hive either cut straw, chaff or shavings. 
After placing a good thickness of cut straw above the hive, 
lay on the cover of the box, or cover with boards. This pre- 
serves against changes of temperature during the winter, and 
also permits the bees to fly, if it becomes necessary from a 
protracted period of warm Aveather. I have thus kept all our 
bees safely during two of the disastrous winters. This plan 
usually succeeds well, but will fail in a very severe winter 
like that of 1880-81. As some may wish to try, and pos- 
sibly to adopt it, I will describe the box used at our College, 
which costs but one dollar and is convenient to store away in 
summer. 

BOX FOR PACKING. 

The sides of this (Fig. 163, a, a) facing east and west are 
three and a half feet long, two feet high at the south end, 
and two and a half feet at the north. They are in one piece, 
which is secured by nailing the boards which form them to 
cleats, which are one inch from the ends. The north end 
(Fig. 163, b) is three feet by two and a half feet, the south 
(Fig. 163, 6), three feet by two, and made the same as are the 
sides. The slanting edges of the side (Fig. 163, a, a) are made 
by using for the upper boards, the strips formed by sawing 
diagonally from corner to corner a board six inches wide and 



Box for Packing. 



297 



three feet long. The cover (Fig. 163, g), which is removed 
in figure, is large enough to cover the top and project one 
inch at both ends. It should be battened, and held in one 
piece by cleats (Fig. 163, K) four inches wide, nailed on to 
the ends. These will drop over the ends of the box, and thus 
hold the cover in place, and prevent rain and snow from 
driving in. When in place this slanting cover permits the 
rain to run off easily, and will dry quickly after a storm. 
By a single nail at each corner the four sides may be tacked 
together about the hive, when it can be packed in with cut 

Fig. 163. 




straw (Fig. 163), or fine chaff, which should be carefully done, 
if the day is cold, so as not to disquiet the bees. At the cen- 
tre and bottom of the. east side (Fig. 163, c), cut out a 
square, eight inches each way, and between this and the hive 
place a bottomless tube (the top of this tube is represented as 
removed in figure to show entrance to hive), before putting 
in the cut straw or chaff and adding the cover. This box 
should be put in place before the bleak cold days of Novem- 
ber, and retained in position till the stormy winds of April are 



298 Chaff Hives. 

passed. This permits the bees to fly when very warm Aveather 
comes in winter or spring, and requires no attention from the 
apiarist. By placing two or three hives close together in 
autumn — yet never move the colonies more than three or four feet at 
any one time, as such removals involve the loss of many bees 
— one box may be made to cover all, and at less expense. 
This will also be more trustworthy in very cold winters. Late 
in April these boxes may be removed "and packed away, and 
the straw or chaff carried away, or removed a short distance 
and burned. 

CHAFF HIVES. 

Messrs. Townley, Butler, Root, Poppleton and others, prefer 
chaff hives, which are simply double- walled hives, with the four 
or five inch chambers filled with chaff. The objections to these 
I take to be : first, they are not proof against severe and long- 
continued cold, like the winter of 1880-81 ; second, such cum- 
brous hives are inconvenient to handle in summer ; and, third, 
they are expensive. That they would in part supply the place 
of shade, is, perhaps, in their favor, while Mr. A. I. Root 
thinks they are not expensive. 

Mr. O. O. Poppleton, one of our most intelligent bee-keep- 
ers, shows practically that the first objection given above is not 
valid. So very likely the failure in so many apiaries in 
1880-81 was rather due to improper use. Mr. Poppleton 
claims numerous advantages for these hives : 

1st. In his hands, success. 

2d. They permit early preparation for winter. 

3d. They give entire freedom from care of the bees from 
September till March. 

4th. Preparation for winter requires only slight labor. 

5th. We can easily get at the bees at any time. 

6th. The bees are not excited by a slight rise in tempera- 
ture, and so are not lost by flying on cold days ; do not breed 
in winter and spring when they need quiet, and do not 
"dwindle" in spring. 

7th. They are valuable aids in building up nuclei and 
weak colonies at cold periods at any one time of the year. 

8th. They are specially desirable to protect the bees in 
April and May, and prevent "spring dwindling." 



Chaff Hives. 



299 



RULES FOR THEIR USE. 



Mr. Poppletou urges the following important points: 

1st. Pack early in Autumn before cold weather, and do 

Fig. 164. 




not remove the packing till the warm weather has come to stay. 

Fig. 165. 




2d. Have five or six inches on all sides of bees, of fine 
chaff — timothy is best — entirely freed from straw. 

3d. Be sure and have the chaff below the bees as well as 
above and on the sides. 

4th. Do not put the chaff above the bees on loose, but con- 
fine in sacks. This is for convenience and neatness. 



300 Wintering in Bee House. 

5th. Have as much empty space as possible inside the hive 
and outside the packing ; and never let the cover to the hive 
rest immediately on the packing. 

6th. Crowd the bees on to a few frames — never more than 
eight — and the packing close to the bees. 

7th. Winter passages should be made through all the 
combs. 

Mr. Jones prefers that the outer wall of the chaff hive 
(Fig. 164) should be of narrow boards so as to be more per- 
vious to dampness. He also uses fine dry saw-dust instead of 
chaff". Mr. Root in his two-story hives (Fig. 165) uses a 
thicker layer of chaff below, but carries it to the top. Of 
course the double wall need not extend on the sides of the 
frames. The division boards on the sides of the frames may 
make the rlouble Avail. 

WINTERING IN BEE HOUSE. 

As Mr. D. A. Jones has tested bee houses on a very large 
scale, and met with success, I will quote directly from him : 

"The house should be so constructed that the out-door 
temperature cannot affect that of the bee house ; and in order 
to accomplish this its walls should be packed tightly with two 
feet of dry sawdust or three feet of chaff, packing overhead 
same thickness, and the bottom so protected that no frost can 
penetrate. Next, it should have a ventilating tube at the top, 
of not less than one square inch to each colony of bees. It 
should have sub-earth ventilation by means of a tube laid 
below the depth frost will penetrate, and from one to three 
hundred feet in length, coming in contact with outside atmo- 
sphere at the other end ; as air passes through this tube it is 
tempered by the distance through the earth, and comes into 
the house at an even temperature. By means of slides at 
these ventilators, the temperature can be arranged in the bee 
house, which should stand from 43° to 46°, and in no case 
should it fall lower than 42°. There should be tight-fitting 
tripple doors, which will make two dead-air spaces. 

"When the bee house is filled, and during warm weather in 
the spring — the bees should not be let out on the summer stands 
until the first pollen appears (which is generally from the Tag 
Alder or Black Willow) — it is necessary that the temperature 
of the room be kept at the wintering standpoint. This may 



Wintering in Cellar. 301 

be done by means of an ice-box or refrigerator, filled with ice 
or snow, and suspended at top of room in close proximity to 
the ceiling. The bottom of the box must be so constructed 
that while the warm air may be allowed to pass up through the 
refrigerator, the drippings will not drop to the floor and create 
moisture. This latter may be prevented by means of a tube 
running from the box down through the floor. 

"Winter passages should be made through combs, between 
which a space of half an inch should be left. During the last 
sunshining days in fall remove the lid and cloth from hive and 
allow the sun to shine in ; this purifies and dries them. Then 
put on cloth free from propolis ; that same evening carry bees 
carefully into the house, placing them on a bench 10 to 12 
inches from the floor or ground ; this keeps them out of the 
carbonic acid gas, which is given off by the bees in the hive, 
and which sinks to the lowest part of the bee house. The lids 
should be removed, and only cloth or cushion of chaff or saw- 
dust allowed to remain on hive. Leave entrance wide open. 

' Tf more than one row of hives are placed in the house, place 
them one above the other, arranging so that the hives shall 
break joints. Place the weaker colonies at the top and keep 
two thermometers in the room, one at the level of the lower 
row and the other on a line with the highest hives." 

WINTERING IN CELLAR. 

With only a few colonies, a cellar is not only more conven- 
ient, but I think it is safer than a house entirely above ground. 
In fact, I fully believe that a good cellar, thoroughly ventilated 
with a sub-earth ventilator, so as to always give a uniform 
temperature, is unsurpassed for wintering bees. Our cellar 
thus arranged has given perfect success. We have yet to 
lose our first colony in it. I know of several similar cases. 
I know of no exception. 

A cellar in which we are sure of our ability to control the 
temperature, needs to be dark and quiet, and ventilated as 
described above. As already stated, the ventilator to bring 
air may well be made of tile, and pass through the earth for 
one or two hundred feet and then open at the bottom of the 
cellar. If possible, the ventilator that carries the foul air 
off should be connected with a stove-pipe in a room above, 
with its lower end reaching to the bottom of the cellar. 



302 Wintering in Cellar. 

This arrangement secures perfect ventilation, and as the 
fresh air is brought through the earth below the line of frost, 
it is warmed in winter and cooled in spring, so that the refriger- 
ator mentioned above is not necessary. This makes a cellar 
much superior to a house. The pipe should join the stove-pipe 
in the room above, so high as not to destroy the draft to the 
stove. I would have this pipe four inches in diameter, and 
the sub-earth pipe at least six inches. 

The College apiary cellar is grouted throughout, which 
makes it more dry and neat. Of course it should be thoroughly 
drained, and entirely mouse-tight. 

The colonies should be put. into the depository when the 
hives are dry, before cold weather, and should remain till April; 
though in January and March, if there are days that are warm, 
they may be taken out and the bees permitted to fly, though 
never unless they seem uneasy and soil the entrances to their 
hives. Such uneasiness shows that either our cellar or our 
preparation is faulty. Always, when taken out, they should 
be placed on their old stands, so that no bees may be lost. 
Towards night, when all are quiet, return them to the cellar. 
I would not remove bees till towards night, as it is better that 
they have a good flight, and then become quiet. When moved 
out it is very desirable to brush away all dead bees, which is 
an argument in favor of a movable bottom-board. In moving 
the hives into the cellar, great care should be exercised not to 
jar them. It were better if the bees should not know that 
they were being moved at all. 

That the moisture may be absorbed, it may be well to cover 
the bees with a bag filled with chaff, or fine dry saw-dust, even 
in the cellar, though I doubt if this is necessary. I make the 
bag so long that the chaff or saw-dust may not only cover 
above, but extend close down xmtside the division-boards. I 
partially or wholly remove the cover to the hive while in the cel- 
lar. With others, I have found that water in a cellar is not 
injurious, especially if the room be well ventilated. In fact, 
water which may be contained in a cistern or pass into and 
out of the cellar through tile, with the outlet a little higher 
than the inlet, serves admirably to preserve a uniform tem- 
perature, which is of the greatest importance. It not only 
keeps the temperature up in severe weather but down in spring, 
and saves all expense of sub-earth ventilation. 



Burying Bees. 303 

I have found it advantageous, when preparing my bees for 
winter, in October, to contract the chamber by use of a divis- 
ion-board. This is very desirable if wintered out doors, and 
with frames a foot square is very easily accomplished. By use 
of eight frames the space (one cubic foot) is very compact, 
and serves to economize the heat, not only in winter, but in 
spring. By thus using division-boards with only three frames, 
I have been very successful in wintering nuclei. We have 
only to guard against low temperature. 

Perhaps I ought to say that all colonies should be strong in 
autumn; but I have said before, never have weak colonies. 
Yet for fear some have been negligent, I remark that weak 
colonies and nuclei should be united in preparing for winter. 
To do this, approximate the colonies each day, four or five 
feet, till they are side by side. Noav remove the poorest queen, 
then smoke thoroughly, 'sprinkle both colonies with sweetened 
water scented with essence of peppermint, put a sufficient 
number of the best frames and all the bees into one of the 
hives, and then set this midway between the position of the 
hives at the commencement of the uniting. The bees will 
unite peaceably, and make a strong colony. In case of nuclei 
I usually unite three for winter. Uniting colonies may pay 
at other seasons. It may seem rash to some, yet I fully believe 
that if the above suggestions are carried out in full, I may 
guarantee successful wintering. But if we do lose our bees, 
having all our hives, combs, and honey, we can buy colonies in 
the spring with a perfect certainty of making 200 or 300 per 
cent, on our investment. Even with the Avorst condition of 
things, we are still ahead, in way of profit, of most other 
vocations. 

BURYING BEES, OR CLAMPS; 

In principle this i& the same as cellar wintering. There are 
two serious objections to it. First, we do not know that the 
temperature is just right, and secondly, if aught goes wrong 
we know nothing of it — the bees are away out of sight. If 
this is practiced, the ground should either be sandy or well 
drained. If Ave can choose a side-hill it should be done. 
Beneath the hives and around them, straAV should be placed. 
I should advise leaving the entrance Avell open, yet secure 
against mice. The hives should all be placed beneath the surface 



304 Spring Dwindling. 

level of the earth, then form a mound above them sufficient 
to preserve against extreme warmth or cold. A trench about 
the mound to carry the water off quickly is desirable. In 
this arrangement the ground acts as a moderator. I would 
urge the suggestion that no one try this with more than a few 
colonies, for several years, till repeated successes show that it 
is reliable in all seasons. 

SPRING DWINDLING. 

As already suggested, this is not to be feared if we keep 
our bees breeding till late autumn, prepare them well and ear- 
ly for winter, and use a good cellar for wintering. It may 
be further prevented by forbidding late autumn flights, fre- 
quent flights in whiter, when the weather ^is warm, and too 
early flying in spring. These may all be curtailed or prevent- 
ed by the packing system as described above, as thus prepar- 
ed the bees will not feel the warmth, and so will remain quiet 
in the hive. 

I am aware that this matter of spring dwindling is most 
stoutly urged as an objection to cellar wintering, and as an ar- 
gument in favor of chaff" hives. I have had excellent success 
in cellar wintering, and never yet lost a colony by ' ' spring 
dwindling. " Crowd the bees up onto a few frames in Septem- 
ber or early October ; cover warmly above and at sides of di- 
vision-boards with generous bags of saw-dust, and leave these 
on the hives till the next June if the weather remains cool, 
and bees from the cellar — a good cellar — will come through 
the spring in excellent condition. In the winter of '81-'82, 
I put some chaff hives into my cellar alongside of my single- 
walled hives, arranged as just described, and the bees in them 
did no better in spring after removal from the cellar than in 
other hives. Be sure in early spring that the bees have no 
more combs than they can cover, and spring dwindling will 
lose its terror. The division board and saw-dust pillow' are 
antidotes for this malady. Never set bees permanently on 
their summer stands from the cellar till the flowers and warmth 
will enable them to work. 

I have little doubt but that bees will do better if no breed- 
ing takes place in winter. Perfect quiet should be our desire. 
If the bees have no pollen, of course no breeding will take 
place, and so I advised its removal. It is not for winter use. 



How to Build a Bee House. 305 



CHAPTER XIX. 

THE HOUSE APIARY AND BEE HOUSE. 

The House Apiary is a frost-proof house in which the bees 
are kept the year through. The entrances" to the hives are 
through the sides of the house, and all manipulation of the 
bees is carried on inside. From what I have said about win- 
tering, it at once appears that such a house should preserve a 
uniform temperature. As many such houses were built a few 
years ago, and are now, with very few exceptions, used for 
other purposes, I will only say that if such houses are ever 
desirable it is only when queen rearing is to occupy the chief 
attention of the apiarist. 

BEE HOUSES. 

As a good and convenient bee-house is very desirable in 
every apiary of any considerable size, I will proceed to give a 
few hints in reference to its construction. 

First. I should have a good cellar under the house, entire- 
ly frost proof, mouse and rat proof, thoroughly grouted, and 
ventilated as already described. I would have three doors to 
this from the north, the outer one inclined. I should have 
the entrance an inclined plane, which, especially if the apiary 
is large, should be so gradual in its descent that a car could 
pass down it into the cellar, on a temporary track. The cel- 
lar should be well drained, or if water be permitted to pass 
through it, this should be kept in prescribed channels. In 
case of large apiaries the track and car make the removal of 
the bees to and from the cellar an easy matter. The first floor 
I should have, if my apiary was large, on a level with the 
ground. This (Fig. 166) should contain three rooms, one on 
the north for a shop, one on the south-east for comb honey, 
and one on the south-west for extracting, and storing extracted 
honey and brood combs. For 100 colonies of bees, this build- 
ing need not be more than sixteen by twenty feet. The room 
for comb will then be eight by twelve feet, that for extracting, 
eight by sixteen, and the shop in the form of an L. A chim- 
ney should pass from the attic at the common angle of these 

20 



306 



How to Build a Bee House. 



three rooms through the roof. Wide doors on the south, if 
the apiary is large, should permit the car to enter either of 
the rooms on an extemporized track, whenever extracting or 
taking off comb honey is in operation. 

The house should be so constructed as to be always free 
from rats and mice. In summer, wire gauze doors should be 
used, and the same material should be tacked on the outside 
of the window casing of the two south rooms. This gauze 
should extend from four to six inches above, and be held out 

Fig. 166. 



GO 



Sxl2 



Bee House. 



b— Work-bench. 
c — Chimney. 



(I, d, etc.,— Doors. w, w, etc.,— Windows. 

from the wall by one-fourth inch strips. This permits all bees 
to leave the house, while the character of the opening pre- 
cludes outside bees from entering. Inside doors should per- 
mit our passing directly from any of these rooms to the others. 
The position of the chimney makes it easy to have a fire in 
any of the rooms. This would be desirable in the shop, in 
winter, when hive making, etc., is in operation, or when visit- 
ing with other bee-keepers was in progress. The ripening of 
honey or late extracting makes it often desirable to have a fire 



Car and Tracks. 307 

in the extracting room. If comb-honey is kept in the desig- 
nated room late in the season, it may be desirable to warm 
that room. Of course a large stove in the shop might be 
made to heat any or all of the rooms. I would have the 
comb-honey room very tight, and ventilated by an easily 
regulated slide into the chimney for the purpose of easy fumi- 
gation. Platforms a little out from the wall on which the honey 
may rest for a time are desirable, as the honey will not be so 
fine if immediately crated for market. 

The extractor-room should have close, moth proof cupboards 
for receiving brood combs. Those in our house are high 
enough for three rows of frames, and wide enough to just re- 
ceive the top-bar of a frame cross-wise. Cleats nailed on to 
the inside hold the frames, which are turned diagonally a little 
to pass them to the lower tier. This room ought also to have 
a table for work, and large open tanks, open barrels, or ex- 
tractor cans, to hold the honey while it ripens. If the build- 
ing is painted dark, this room will be warmer in summer. 
The warmer it becomes the more rapidly the honey thickens. 

A chamber above costs but little, and serves admirably as 
a place for storage. This may be entered by stairs from the 
shop. 

A neat bench (Fig. 166, b), and sharp tools, all convenient- 
ly placed, make the shop a very desirable fixture to every 
Apiary. 

I have spoken of a car and track in large apiaries; such an 
arrangement, which costs but little, is exceedingly desirable. 
The tracks run close to the rows of hives, and by means of 
simple switches, the car can be run anywhere in the apiary. 



308 Robbing. 

CHAPTER XX. 

EVILS THAT CONFRONT THE APIARIST. . 

There are various dangers that are likely to vex the apia- 
rist, and even to stand in the way of successful apiculture. 
Yet, with knowledge, most, if not all, of these evils may be 
wholly vanquished. Among these are : Robbing among the 
bees, disease, and depredations from other animals. 

ROBBING. 

This is a trouble that often very greatly annoys the inex- 
perienced. Bees only rob at such times as the general 
scarcity of nectar forbids honest gains. When the question 
comes : Famine or theft, like many another, they are not slow 
to choose the latter. It is often induced by working with the 
bees at such times, especially if honey is scattered about or left 
lying around the apiary. It is especially to be feared in 
spring, when colonies are apt to be weak in both honey and 
bees, and thus are unable to protect their own meager stores. 
The remedies for this evil are not far to seek : 

First. Strong colonies are very rarely molested, and are al- 
most sure to defend themselves against marauders ; hence it is 
only the weaklings of the apiarist's flock that are in danger. 
Therefore, regard for our motto, "Keep all colonies strong," 
will secure against harm from this cause. 

Second. Italians, — the Cyprians and Syrians are even 
more spirited in this work of defense than are the Italians — 
as before stated, are fully able, and quite as ready, to pro- 
tect their rights against neighboring tramps. Woe be to the 
thieving bee that dares to violate the sacred rights of the home 
of our beautiful Italians, for such temerity is almost sure 
to cost the intruder its life. 

But weak colonies, like our nuclei, and black bees, are still 
easily kept from harm. Usually, the closing of the entrance 
so that but a single bee can pass through, is all sufficient. 
With the hive we have recommended, this is easily accom- 
plished by simply moving the hive back or using the triangular 
blocks. 



Foul Brood. 309 

Another way to secure such colonies against robbing is to 
move them into the cellar for a few days. This is a further 
advantage, as less food is eaten, and the strength of the indi- 
vidual bees is conserved by the quiet, and as there is no nec- 
tar in the fields no loss is suffered. 

In all the work of the apiary at times of no honey gather- 
ing, we cannot be too careful to keep all honey from the bees 
unless placed 'in the hives. The hives, too, should not be 
kept open long at a time. Neat, quick work should be the 
watch-word. During times when robbers are essaying to 
practice their nefarious designs, the bees are likely to be more 
than usually irritable, and likely to resent intrusion ; hence 
the importance of more than usual caution, if it is desired to 
introduce a queen. Working under the bee-tent (Fig. 101) 
prevents all danger of inciting the bees to rob. 

disease. . 

The common dysentery — indicated by the bees soiling their 
hives, as they void their feces within instead of without — 
which so frequently works havoc in our apiaries, is, without 
doubt, I think, consequent upon wrong management on the 
part of the apiarist, as already suggested in Chapter XVIII. 
As the methods to prevent this have already been sufficiently 
considered, we pass to the terrible 

FOUL BROOD. 

This disease, said to have been known to Aristotle — though 
this is doubtful, as a stench attends common dysentery — 
though it has occurred in our State as well as in States about 
us, is not familiar to me, I having never seen but one case, 
and that on Kelly's Island, in the summer of 1875, where I 
found it had reduced the colonies on that Island to two. Of 
late I receive samples of this affected brood each season. It 
is causing sad havoc in many regions of our country. No bee 
malady can compare with this in malignancy. By it Dzierzon 
once lost his whole apiary of 500 colonies. Mr. E. Rood, first 
President of the Michigan Association, has lost his bees two 
or three times by this terrible plague. 

The symptoms are as follows : Decline in the prosperity of 
the colony, because of failure to rear brood. The brood seems 
to putrefy, becomes "brown and salvy," and gives ofi a stench 



310 Foul Brood. 

which is by no means agreeable, while later the caps are con- 
cave instead of convex, and many will have a little hole 
through them. 

There is no longer any doubt as to the cause of this fearful 
plague. Like the fell "Pebrine," which came so near exter- 
minating the silk worm, and a most lucrative and extensive 
industry in Europe, it, as conclusively shown .by Drs. Preusz 
and Shonfeld, of Germany, is the result of fungous or veg- 
etable growth. Shonfeld not only mfected healthy bee larvae 
but those of other insects, both by means of the putrescent 
foul brood and by taking the spores. 

Fungoid growths are very minute, and the spores are so in- 
finitesimally small as often to elude the sharp detection of the 
expert microscopist. Most of the terrible, contagious dis- 
eases that human flesh is heir to, like typhus, diphtheria, 
cholera, small pox, etc., etc., are now thought to be due to 
microscopic germs, and hence to be spread from home to home, 
and from hamlet to hamlet, it is only necessary that the spores, 
the minute seeds, either by contact or by some sustaining air 
current, be brought to new soil of flesh, blood, or other tissue 
— their garden spot — when they at once spring into growth, 
and thus lick up the very vitality of their victims. The huge 
mushroom will grow in a night. So, too, these other plants — 
the disease germs — will develop with marvelous rapidity ; 
and hence the horrors of yellow fever, scarlatina, and cholera. 

To cure such diseases the fungi must be killed. To pre- 
vent their spread the spores must be destroyed, or else con- 
fined. But as these are so small, so light, and so invisible — 
easily borne and wafted by the slightest zephyr of summer, 
this is often a matter of the utmost difficulty. 

In ' ' Foul Brood " these germs feed on the larva? of the 
bees, and thus convert life and vigor into death and decay. 
If we can kill this miniature forest of the hive, and destroy 
the spores, we shall extirpate the terrible plague. 

Some of the facts connected with "Foul Brood" would lead 
us to think that the germs or spores of this fungus are only 
conveyed in the honey. This supposition, alone, enables us 
to understand one of the remedies which some of our ablest 
apiarists hold to be entirely sure. 



Foul Brood— Remedies. 311 

REMEDIES. 

If we can find a substance that will prove fatal to the fungi 
and yet not injure the bees, the problem is solved. Our Ger- 
man scientists — those masters in scientific research and discov- 
ery, have found this valuable fungicide in salicylic acid, an 
extract from the same willows that give us pollen and nectar. 
This cheap white powder is easily soluble in alcohol, and, when 
mixed with borax, in water. 

Mr. Hilbert, one of the most thoughtful of German bee- 
keepers, was the first to affect a radical cure of foul brood in 
his apiary by the use of this substance. He dissolved fifty 
grains of the acid in five hundred grains of pure spirits. One 
drop of this in a grain of distilled water is the mixture he ap- 
plied. Mr. C. F. Muth, from whom the above facts as to 
Herr Hilbert are gathered, suggests a variation in the mix- 
ture. 

Mr. Muth suggests an improvement, which takes advantage 
of the fact that the acid, which alone is very insoluble in 
water, is, when mixed with borax, soluble. . His recipe is as 
follows : Eight grains of salicylic acid, eight grains of soda- 
borax, and one ounce of ^ater. This remedy is applied as 
follows : First, uncap all the brood, then throw the fluid over 
the comb in a fine spray. This will not injure the bees, but 
will prove fatal to the fungi. Mr. Muth found on trial that 
though this method would cure, the labor and danger of 
spreading the disease in the operation was so great that actual 
cremation of all affected stocks was often to be preferred. An 
improvement which is just as successful and without the ob- 
jections, is suggested by Mr. Muth as follows : Drum the bees 
all out into a clean hive, filled with foundation, shut them in 
this hive and feed them honey or syrup, after adding to each 
quart one ounce of the above compound, except that sixteen 
ounces each of the salicylic acid and soda-borax are used, thus 
making the solution of double the strength. The honey should 
be extracted and boiled, the old combs melted into wax, and 
the hive scalded or burned. Great caution should be exercised 
that none of the honey be eaten by bees till it has been 
scalded. 

Mr. D. A. Jones is successful with what he terms the star- 
vation method : The bees are removed to an empty hive, and 
given no food for three or four days, till they have digested 



312 Enemies of Bees — Moths. 

all the honey in their stomachs. They are then given founda- 
tion and food, and the comhs, honey, and hive treated as de- 
scribed above. It would seem that the spores are in the honey, 
and by taking that the contagion is administered to the young 
bees. The honey may be purified from these noxious germs 
by subjecting it to the boiling temperature, which is generally, 
if not always, fatal to the spores of fungoid life. By immers- 
ing the combs in a salicylic acid solution, or sprinkling them 
with the same, they would be rendered sterile, and could be 
used without much fear of spreading contagion. It is better, 
however, to melt them at once. The disease is probably spread 
by robber bees visiting affected hives, and carrying with them 
in the honey the fatal germs. 

(I have found that a paste made of gum tragacanth and 
water is very superior, and I much prefer it for either general 
or special use to gum Arabic. Yet it soon sours — which means 
that it is nourishing these fungoid plants — and thus becomes 
disagreeable. I have found that a very little salicylic acid 
will render it sterile, and thus preserve it indefinitely.) 

ENEMIES OF%BEES. 

Swift was no mean entomologist, as shown in the following 
stanza : 

"The little fleas that do us tease, 

Have lesser fleas to bite them, 
And these again have lesser fleas, 

And so ad infinitum." 

Bees are no exception to this law, as they have to brave the 
attacks of reptiles, birds, and other insects. In fact, they are 
beset with perils at home and perils abroad, perils by night 
and perils by day. 

the bee moth — Galleria cereana, Fabr. 

This insect belongs to the family of snout moths, Pyralidse. 
This snout is not the tongue, but the palpi, which fact was 
not known by Mr. Langstroth, Avho is usually so accurate, as 
he essayed to correct Dr. Harris, who stated correctly that 
the tongue, the ligula, was "very short and hardly visible." 
■This family includes the destructive hop moth, and the nox- 
ious meal and clover moths, and its members are very readily 
recognized by their usually long palpi, the so-called snouts. 



Enemies of Bees — Motlis. 



313 



The eggs of the bee moth are white, globular and very- 
small. These are usually pushed into crevices by the female 
moth as she extrudes them, which she can easily do by aid 
of her spy-glass-like ovipositor. They may be laid in the hive, 
in the crevice underneath it, or about the entrance. Soon 
these eggs hatch, when the gray, dirty looking caterpillars, 
with brown heads, seek the comb on which they feed. To 



Fig. 167. 



Fig. 168. 





better protect themselves from the bees, they wrap themselves 
in a silken tube (Fig. 167) which they have power to spin. 
They remain in this tunnel of silk during all their growth, en- 
larging it as they eat. By lookiug closely, the presence of 
these larvae may be known by this robe of glistening silk, as it 
extends in branching outlines (Fig 168) along the surface of 
the comb. A more speedy detection, even, than the defaced 
comb, comes from the particles of comb, intermingled with 
the powder-like droppings of the caterpillars, which will al- 
ways be seen on the bottom-board in case the moth-larva? are 
at work. Soon, in three or four weeks, the larvse are full 
grown (Fig. 169). Now the six jointed, and the ten prop- 
legs— making sixteen in all, the usual number possessed by cat- 
erpillars — are plainly visible. These larvse are about an inch 



314 



Enemies of Bees — Moth* 



long, and show by their plump appearance that they at least can 
digest comb. They now spin their cocoons, either in some 
crevice about the hive, or, if very numerous, singly (Fig. 170, 
a) or in clusters (Fig. 170, b) on the comb, or even in the 
drone-cells (Fig. 170, c), in which they become pupa?, and in 
two weeks, even less sometimes, during the extreme heat of 
summer, the moths again appear. In winter they may re- 

Fig. 169. 



gg fWjjgg 



main as pupae for months. The moths or millers — sometimes 
incorrectly called moth-millers — are of an obscure gray color, 
and thus so mimic old boards that they are very readily 
passed unobserved by the apiarist. They are about three- 
fourths of an inch long, and expand (Fig. 171 J nearly one 



Fig. 170. 



Fig. 171. 




and one-fourth inches. The females are darker than the 
male, possess a longer snout, and are usually a little larger. 
The wings, when the moths are quiet, are flat on the back for 
a narrow space, then slope very abruptly. They rest by day, 
yet, when disturbed, will dart forth with great swiftness, so 
Reuamur styled them "nimble-footed." They are active by 
night, when they essay to enter the hive and deposit their 
one or two hundred eggs. If the females are held in the hand 



Enemies of Bees — Moths. 315 

they will often extrude their eggs ; in fact, they have been 
known to do this even after the head and thorax were severed 
from the abdomen, and, still more strange, while the latter was 
being dissected. 

It is generally stated that these are two-brooded, the first 
moths occurring in May, the second in August. Yet, as I 
have seen these moths in every month from May to Septem- 
ber, and as I have proved by actual observation that they may 
pass from egg to moth in less than six weeks, I think under 
favorable conditions there may be even three broods a year. 
It is true that the varied conditions of temperature — as the 
moth larva? may grow in a deserted hive, in one with few bees, 
or one crowded with bee life — will have much to do with the 
rapidity of development. Circumstances may so retard growth 
and development that there may not be more than two, and 
possibly, in extreme cases, not more than one brood in a season. 

It is stated by Mr. Quinby that a freezing temperature will 
kill these insects in all stages, while Mr. Betsinger thinks that 
a deserted hive is safe; neither of which ' assertions is correct. 
I have seen hives whose bees were killed by the severe winter, 
crowded with moth pupse or chrysalids the succeeding summer. 
I have subjected both larvae and pupse to the freezing temper- 
ature without injuring them. I believe, in veiy mild winters, 
the moth and the chrysalids might be so protected as to escape 
unharmed, even outside the hive. ' It is probable, too, that 
the insects may pass the winter in any one of the various 
stages. 

HISTORY. 

These moths were known to writers of antiquity, as even 
Aristotle tells of their injuries. They are wholly of oriental 
origin,, and are often referred to by European writers as a ter- 
rible pest. The late Dr. Kirtland, the able scientist, and first 
President of our American Bee Convention, once said in a let- 
ter to Mr. Langstroth that the moth was first introduced into 
America in 1805, though bees had been introduced long before. 
They first seemed to be very destructive. It is quite probable, as 
has been suggested, that the bees had to learn to fear and repel 
them ; for, unquestionably, bees do grow in Avisdom. In fact, 
may not the whole of instinct be inherited knowledge, which 
once had to be acquired by the animal? Surely bees and other 



316 Enemies of Bees — Moths. 

animals learn to battle new enemies, and vary their habits with 
changed conditions, and they also transmit this knowledge and 
their acquired habits to their offspring, as illustrated by setter 
and pointer dogs. In time, may not this account for all those 
varied actions, usually ascribed to instinct ? At least, I be- 
lieve the bee to be a creature of no small intelligence. 

REMEDIES. 

In Europe, late writers give very little space to this moth. 
Once a serious pest, it has now ceased to alarm, or even dis- 
quiet the intelligent apiarist, In fact, we may almost call it 
a blessed evil, as it will destroy the bees of the heedless, and 
thus prevent injury to the markets by their unsalable honey, 
while to the attentive bee-keeper it will Avork no injury at all. 
Neglect and ignorance are the moth breeders. 

As already stated, Italian bees are rarely injured by moths, 
and strong colonies never. As the enterprising apiarist will 
only possess these, it is clear that he is free from danger. 
The intelligent apiarist will also provide not only against weak, 
but queenless colonies as well, which from their abject dis- 
couragement are the surest victims to moth invasion. Know-" 
ing that destruction is sure, they seem, if not to court death, 
to make no effort to delay it, 

As my friend, Judge J. H. Andrews, asserts, no bees, black 
or Italian, will be troubled with these insects so long as all 
the combs are covered with bees. 

In working with bees an occasional web will be seen glisten- 
ing in the comb, which should be picked out with a knife till 
the manufacturer — the ruthless larva — is found, when it should 
be crushed. Any larva seen about the bottom board, seeking 
place to spin its cocoon, or any pupae, either on comb or in a 
crack, should also be killed. If, through carelessness, a col- 
ony has become thoroughly victimized by these filthy wax de- 
vourers, then the bees and any combs not attacked should be 
transferred to another hive, after which the old hive should be 
sulphured by use of the smoker, as before described 
then by giving one or two each of the remaining combs to 
strong colonies, after killing any pupae that may be on them , 
they will be cleaned and used, while by giving the enfeebled 
colony brood; and if necessary a good queen, if it has any vigor 
remaining it will soon be rejoicing in strength and prosperity. 



Enemies oj Bees — Robber Flies. 317 

We have already spoken of caution as to comb honey and 
frames of comb, and so need not speak further of them. 

TWO DESTRUCTIVE BEETLES. 

There are two destructive beetles that often work on the 
comb, more, however, for the pollen and dead bees than for 
the wax. One of these, Tenebrionellus molitor, Linn., is the 
common flour or meal beetle. It is dark brown in color, and 
five-eighths of an inch (16 mm.) long. The larva or grub is 
of a lighter color and when fully developed is one inch (25 
mm.) long. It resembles very closely the larva of our Elater 
beetles — the wire worms." The other is the bacon beetle, Der- 
mestes lardarius, Linn., which is a sore pest in museums, as it 
feeds on all kinds of. dried animaltissues. The beetle is black, 
while nearly one-half of the wing covers, next to the thorax, 
are yellowish gray, lined in the middle with black. The bee- 
tle is three-eighths of an inch (10 mm.) long. The larva is 
some longer, very hairy, and ringed with brown and black 
bands. These beetles are not very troublesome in the apiary 
and can be readily destroyed by use of bisulphide of carbon. 
Care is necessary, however, in the use of this very explosive 
liquid. 

ROBBER FLIES. 

There are several of these flies that prey upon bees. The 
, Fig. 172. 




most common is Asilus Missouriensis, Riley. This is a two- 
winged fly, of the predacious family Asilidoe, which attacks 



318 



Enemies of Bees — Robber Flies. 



and takes captive the bee and then feeds upon its fluids. It 
is more common in the southern part of our country. The fly 
(Fig. 172) has a long, pointed abdomen, strong wings, and is very 
powerful. I have seen an allied species attack and overcome 
the powerful tiger-beetle, whereupon I took them both Avith 
my net, and now have them pinned, as they were captured, in 
our College cabinet. These flies delight in the warm sunshine, 
are very quick on the wing, and so are not easily captured. 
It is to be hoped that they will not become very numerous. 
If they should, I hardly know how they could be kept from 
their evil work. Frightening them or catching with a net 
might be tried, yet these methods would irritate the bees, and 
need to be tried before they are recommended. I have re- 
ceived specimens of this fly from nearly every Southern State. 
During the past summer this same fly has been well employed 
here in Michigan. It has been observed to kill the cabbage 
butterflies by scores. 

I have also a fly of the same family, with the same bee-de- 
stroying habits, a species of Erax (Fig. 173). In form it re- 



Fig. 173. 




Fig. 174, a. 




Fig. 174. 




sembles the one refered to above. The wing (Fig. 174), as 
will be seen, is quite different in its venation. I received this 
species from Louisiana. Fig. 174, a, shows the antennae 
magnified. The Nebraska bee-killer, Promachus bastardi, is 
the same in general appearance as the above. The second vein 
of the primary wing, not the third, as in case of Asilus, forks. 
In Erax, as seen in the figure, this branch is disconnected. 



Enemies of Bees — Robber Flies. 



319 



There are two other insects of this family, MaUophora orcina 
and MaUophora bomboides, which differ greatly in form from 
those mentioned above ; they look more like bnmble-bees, for 
which they have been mistaken. 

I have received these insects fiom several of our enterpris- 
ing bee-keepers of the South — Tennessee, Georgia, and Flor- 

Fig. 175. Fig. 176. 





ida — with the information that they dart forth from some con- 
venient perch, and with swift and sure aim grasp a bee, and bear 
it to some bush, when they leisurely suck out all but the mere 
crust and cast away the remains. 

The insects in question belong to Loew's third group, Asilina, 
as the antennae end in a bristle (Fig. 175), while the sec- 

Fig. 177. 




ond longitudinal vein of the wing (Fig. 177, b) runs into the 
first (Fig. 177, a). 



320 



Enemies of Bees — Bobber Flies. 



The genus is Mallophora. The venation- of the wings much 
resembles that of the genus Promaelms, though the form of 
these insects is very different. 

In Mallophora and Promaeus the venation is as represented 
in Fig. 177, where, as will be seen, the second vein (Fig. 
177, b) forks, while in the genus Asilus (Fig. 172) the third 
vein is forked, though in all three genera the third joint of 
the antennae (Fig. 175) ends in a prolonged bristle. 

One of the most common of these pests, which I am informed 
by Dr. Hagen is Mallophora orchid, Weid, (Fig. 178) is 
one inch long, and expands one and three-fourths inches (Fig. 
179). The head (Fig. 175) is broad, the eyes black and prom- 
inent, the antenna? three-jointed, the last joint terminating in 
a bristle, while the beak is very large, strong, and, like the 
eyes and antenna?, coal black. This is mostly concealed by 
the light yellow hairs, which are crowded thick about the 
mouth and between the eyes. 

The thorax is prominent and thickly set with light yellow 
hairs. The abdomen is narrow, tapering, and covered with 



Fig. 178. 



Fig. 179. 




m- 



yellow hairs except the tip, which is black. Beneath, the 
sect is clear black, though there are scattering hairs of a gray- 
ish yellow color on the black legs. The pulvilli, or feet pads 
(Fig. 176, 6), are two in number, bright yellow in color, sur- 
mounted by strong, black claws (Fig. 176, a), while below and 
between is the sharp spine (Fig. 176, c), technically known as 
the empodium. 

The habits of the flies are interesting, if not to. our liking. 
Their flight is like the wind, and perched near the hive, they 
rush upon the unwary bee returning to the hive with its full 
load of nectar, and grasping it with their hard strong legs, 



Enemies of Bees — Stinging Bug. 321 

they bear it to some perch near by, when they pierce the crust, 
suck out the juices, and drop the carcass, and are then ready 
to repeat the operation. A hole in the bee shows the cause 
of its sudden taking off. The eviscerated bee is not always 
killed at once by this rude onslaught, but often can crawl 
some distance away from where it falls, before it expires. 

Another insect nearly as common is the Malloplwra bomboid- 
es, Weid. This fly might be called a larger edition of the one 
just described, as in form, habits, and appearance, it closely 
resembles the other. It belongs to the same genus, possessing 
all the generic characters already pointed out. It is very dif- 
ficult to capture them, as they are so quick and active. 

This fly is one and five-sixteenths inches long, and expands 
two and a half inches. The head and thorax are much as in 
the other species. The wings are very long and strong, and, 
as in the other species, are of a smoky brown color. The 
abdomen is short, pointed, concave from side to side on the 
under surface, Avhile the grayish yellow hairs are abundant on 
the legs and whole under portion of the body. The color is a 
lighter yellow than in the other species. These insects are 
powerfully built, and if they become numerous must prove a 
formidable enemy to the bees. 

Another insect very common and destructive in Georgia, 
though it closely resembles the two just described, is of a dif- 
ferent genus. It is the Laphria thoraeica of Fabricius. In 
this genus the third vein is forked, and the third joint of the 
antenna is without the bristle, though it is elongated and taper- 
ing. The insect is black, with yellow hair covering the upper 
surface of the thorax. The abdomen is wholly black both 
above and below, though the legs have yellow hairs on the fe- 
murs and tibise. This insect belongs to the same family as the 
others, and has the same habits. It is found North as well as 
South. 

The stinging-bug. — Phymata Erosa, Fabr. 

This insect is very widely distributed throughout the United 
States. I have received it from Maryland to Missouri on the 
South, and from Michigan to Minnesota on the North. The 
insect will lie concealed among the flowers, and upon occasion 
will grasp a bee, hold it off at arm's length, and suck out its 
blood and life. t . 

21 



322 



Enemies of Bees — Stinging Bug. 



This is a Hemipteron, or true bug, and belongs to the fam- 
ily Phymatidce, Uhler. It is the Phymata erosa , Fabr. , the spe- 
cific name erosa referring to its jagged appearance. It is also 
called the "stinging bug," in reference to its habit of repelling 
intrusion by a painful thrust with its sharp, strong beak. 
^LThe "stinging bug" (Fig. 180) is somewhat jagged in ap- 
pearance, about three-eighths of an inch long, and generally 
of a yellow color, though this latter seems quite variable. 



Fig. 180. 



Fig. 182. 




Fig. 181. 





siil, view, natural size. 



Magnified twice. Beak, much magnified. 



Frequently there is a distinct greenish hue. Beneath the ab- 
domen, and on the back of the head, thorax, and abdomen, it 
is more or less specked with brown ; while across the dorsal 



Fig. 183. 




Fig. 184. 



Fig. 185. 





Interior view. 



Exterior view. 



Antenna much magnified. Anterior kg magnified. 

aspect of the broadened abdomen is a marked stripe of brown 
(Fig. 181, d, d). Sometimes this stripe is almost wanting, 
sometimes a mere patch, while rarely the whole abdomen is 
very slightly marked, and as often we find it almost wholly 



Enemies of Bees — Stinging Bug. 



323 



brown above and below. The legs (Fig. 181, 6), beak and 
antennae (Fig. 181, a), are greenish yellow. The beak (Fig. 
182) has three joints (Fig. 182, a, b, e), and a sharp point (Fig. 
182, d). This beak is not only the great weapon of offense, 
but also the organ through which the food is sucked. By the 
use of this, the insect has gained the soubriquet of ' ' stinging 
bug." This compact jointed beak is peculiar to all true bugs, 
and by observing it alone we are able to distinguish all the 
very varied forms of this group. The antenna (Fig. 183) is 
four-jointed. The first joint (Fig. 183, a) is short, the second 
and third (Fig. 183, b and e) are long and slim, while the ter- 
minal one (Fig. 183, d) is much enlarged. This enlarged 
joint is one of the characteristics of the genus Phymata, as 
described by Latreille. But the most curious structural pecu- 
liarity of this insect and the chief character of the genus Phy- 
mata, is the enlarged anterior legs (Figs. 184 and 185). 
These, were they only to aid in locomotion, would seem like 
awkward, clumsy organs, but when we learn that they are 
used to grasp and hold their prey, then we can but appreciate 
and admire their modified form. The femur (Fig. 184, b) and 
the tarsus (Fig. 184, a) are toothed, while the latter is greatly 

Fig. 187. 



Fig. 186. 





Claw, enlarged. 



Middle leg, much magnified. 



enlarged. From the interior lower aspect of the femur (Fig. 
186) is the small tibia, while on the lower end of the tarsus 
(Fig. 185, d) is a cavity in which rests the single claw. The 
other four legs (Fig. 187) are much as usual. 

This insect, as already intimated, is very predacious, lying 
in wait, often almost concealed, among flowers, ready to cap- 
ture and destroy unwary plant-lice, caterpillars, beetles, but- 



324 Enemies of Bees — Bee-Hawk. 

terflies, moths, and even bees and wasps. We have already 
noticed how well prepared it is for this work by its jaw-like 
anterior legs, and its sharp, strong, sword-like beak. 

It is often caught on the golden rod. This plant, from its 
color, tends to conceal the bug, and from the character of the 
plant — being attractive as a honey plant to bees — the slow bug 
is enabled to catch the spry and active honey-bee. 

As Prof. Uhler well says of the "stinging-bug:" "It is 
very useful in destroying caterpillars and other vegetable-feed- 
ing insects, but is not very discriminating in its tastes, and 
would as soon seize the useful honey-bee as the pernicious saw- 
fly." And he might have added that it is equally indifferent 
to the virtues of our friendly insects like the parasitic and pre- 
dacious species. 

We note, then, that this bug is not wholly evil, and as its 
destruction would be well-nigh impossible, for it is as widely 
scattered as are the flowers in which it lurks, we may well rest 
its case, at least until its destructiveness becomes more serious 
than at present. 

bee-hawk. — Libellulce. 

These large, fine, lace-wings are neuropterous insects. They 
work mostly in the Southern States and are called Mosquito- 
hawks. Insects of this genus are called dragon flies, devil's 
darning-needles, etc. These are exceedingly predacious. In 
fact, the whole sub-order is insectivorous. From its four net- 
ted, veined wings, we can tell it at once from the asilus flies 
before mentioned, which have but two wings. The Bee or 
Mosquito-hawks, are resplendent with metallic hues, while the 
Bee-killers are of sober gray. The Mosquito-hawks are not 
inaptly named, as they not only prey upon other insects, 
swooping down upon them with the dexterity of a hawk, but 
their graceful gyrations, as they sport in the warm sunshine at 
noon-day, are not unlike those of our graceful hawks and fal- 
cons. These insects are found most abundant near water, as 
they lay their eggs in water, where the larvse live and feed 
upon other animals. The larvse are peculiar in breathing by 
gills in the rectum. The same water that bathes these organs 
and furnishes oxygen, is sent out in a jet, and thus sends the 
insect darting along. The larvse also possess enormous jaws, 
which formidable weapons are masked till it is desired to use 



Enemies of Bees — Tachina Fly. 325 

them, when the dipper-shaped mask is dropped or unhinged 
and the terrible jaws open and close upon the unsuspecting 
victim, which has but a brief time to bewail its temerity. 

A writer from Georgia, in Gleanings, volume 6, page 35, 
states that these destroyers are easily scared away, or brought 
down by boys with whips, who soon become as' expert in cap- 
turing the insects as are the latter in seizing the bees. One 
of the largest and most beautiful of these is Am-ax Junius. It 
has a wide range in the United States, North and South, and 
everywhere preys upon the bees. 

TACHINA FLY. 

From descriptions which I have received, I feel certain 
that there is a two-winged fly, probably of the genus Tachina 
(Fig. 188), that works on bees. I have never seen these, 

Fig. 188. 




though I have repeatedly requested those who have to send 
them to me. My friend, Mr. J. L. Davis, put some sick look- 
ing bees into a cage, and hatched the flies which he told me 
looked not unlike a small house-fly. It is the habit of these 
flies, which belong to the same family as our house-flies, which 
they much resemble, to lay their eggs on other insects. Their 
young, upon hatching, burrow into the insect that is being vic- 
timized, and grow by eating it. It would be difficult to cope 
with this evil, should it become of great magnitude. We 
may well hope that this habit of eating bees is an exceptional 
one with it. The affected bees will be found dead at early 
dawn in front of the hives. ' 

v bee-louse. — Braula Oceca, Nitsch. 

This louse (Fig. 189) is a wingless Dipteron, and one of 
the uniques among insects. It is a blind, spider-like parasite, 



326 



Enemies of Bees — Bee-Louse. 



and serves as a very good connecting link between insects and 
spiders, or, still better, between the Diptera, where it belongs, 
and the Hemiptera, which contains the bugs and most of the 
lice. It assumes the semi-pupa state almost as soon as hatched, 

Fig. 189. 





Imago. 



Larva. 



and, strangest of all, is, considering the size of the bee on 
which it lives and from which it sucks its nourishment, enor- 
mously large. Two or three, and sometimes as many as ten, 
are found on a single bee. When we consider their great size, 
we cannot wonder that they soon devitalize the bees. 

These have done little damage except in the South of Con- 
tinental Europe, Cyprus and other parts of the Orient. The 
reason that they have not been naturalized in other parts of 
Europe and in America may be owing to climate, though I 
think more likely it is due to improved apiculture. Mr. 
Frank Benton, who has had much experience with these bee 
lice in Cyprus, writes me that the Braula is no serious pest if 
the bees are properly cared for. ' 'In fact, if hives are kept 
clean inside, and colonies supplied with young queens and 
kept strong, the damage done by the Braula is very slight if 
anything. In old immovable-comb hives, where the combs 
are black and thickened, and in case the queens are old, or 
where through some extraneous cause the colonies have become 
weak, these lice are numerous on queens and workers. I have 
not noticed them on the drones. Since they are' found on 
workers as well as the queen, their removal from the latter will 
bring but temporary relief. About ten is the greatest number 



Enemies of Bees — Ants, Cow-Killer. 327 

that I have seen on one queen. I have only thought it neces- 
sary to remove them in case there were three or more on a 
queen. The only way to remove them is to pick them off with 
a knife, scissors, forceps or similar instrument. They are 
quick-footed and glide from one place to another like the wax- 
moth. I hold the queen between the thumb and first finger 
of the left hand, and Avith pocket-knife or clipping-scissors shave 
off the parasite. It is no easy matter to get them the first 
time, as when you attempt their removal they glide around to 
the other side of the queen so adroitly that you have to turn 
the queen over to try again." Mr. Benton says that it is not 
practicable to remove these lice by lessening the size of the en- 
trance to the hive. He thinks that with the attention given 
to bees in America, the Braula will never become a serious 
pest, if introduced here. 

ANTS. 

These cluster about the hives in spring for warmth, and 
seldom, if ever, I think, do any harm. Should the apiarist 
feel nervous, he can very readily brush them away, or destroy 
them by use of any of the fly poisons which are kept in the 
markets. As these poisons are made attractive by adding 
sweets, we must be careful to preclude the bees from gaining 
access to them. As we should use them in spring, and as we 
then need to keep the quilt or honey-board close above the 
bees, and as the ants cluster above the brood chamber, it is 
not difficult to practice poisoning. One year I tried Paris 
green with success. There are several reports of ants entering 
the hives and killing the bees; even the queen is said to have 
been thus destroyed. In such cases, if they occur, it is best 
to put a sweet poisonous mixture in a box and permit the ants 
to enter through an opening too small to admit bees, and thus 
poison the ants. Or we may find the ants' nest, and with a 
crowbar make a hole in it, turn in this an ounce of bisulphide 
of carbon, and quickly plug it up. The liquid will kill the 
ants. This better -be done when the ants are mostly in their 
nest. 

THE COW-KILLER. 

This ant-like insect, Mutitta coccinea, has been sent me from 
Illinois and the South as far as Texas. It is a formidable 



328 Emmies of Bees — Praying Mantis. 

enemy of the bees. The male has wings and no sting. The 
female has no wings, but is possessed of a powerful sting. 
She is an inch (25 m, m) long, very hairy, and black, except 
the top of her head and thorax, and a broad basal band and 
the tip of the* upper part of her abdomen, which are bright 
red. A central band of black divides the red spaces of the 
abdomen. The entire under part of the body and all the 
members are black. 

So hard and dense is the chitinous crust of these insects, 
that they enter the hives fearlessly, and unmindful of stings 
deliberately kill the bees and feed on the young. The males 
are said to sting. This is certainly a mistake. The sting is a 
modified ovipositor — an organ not possessed by males. These 
insects belong to the family Mutillidse, so called because the 
females are wingless. They are closely allied in structure to 
the ants, which they much resemble. 

THE PRAYING MANTIS. 

This strange insect I have received from Indiana and other 
Southern and Western States. Its scientific name is Mantis 
Carolina, Linn. It is very predacious, and the female has 
been known to eat up her mate immediately after the sexual 
act. No wonder that they make our friends of the hive con- 
tribute to their support. This insect (Fig 190) is a sort of 

Fig. 190. 




non-descript. In the South it is known as Devil's Race-Horse. 
It is a corpulent ' ' walking-stick " with wings. In fact it 
is closely related to our own ' 'walking-sticks" of the North. Its 
anterior legs are very curious. As it rests upon them, it ap- 
pears as if in the attitude of devotion, hence the name Pray- 
ing Mantis. It might well be preying mantis. These pecu- 



Enemies of Bees — Blister Beetles. 



329 



liar anterior legs, like the same in Phymata erosa, are used to 
grasp its victims. It is reported to move with surprising rapid- 
ity, as it grasps it prey. 

Its eggs (Fig. 191) are glued to some twig, in a scale-like 
mass, and covered with a sort of varnish. Some of these 



Fig. 191. 




hatched out in one of my boxes, and the depravity of these 
insects was manifest in the fact that those first hatched fell to 
and ate the others. 

BLISTER BEETLES. 

I have received from Mr. Rainbow, of Fall Brook, Califor- 
nia, the larvae (Fig. 192, a) of some blister beetles, probably 
Meloe barbarus, Lee. , as that is a common species in Califor- 

Fig. 192. 




nia. Mr. Rainbow took as many as seven from one worker 
bee. Fig. 192, b, represents the female of Meloe angusticollis, 
a common species in Michigan and the East. As will be seen, 



330 Enemies of Been — Wasps, Spiders. 

the wing covers are short, and the beetle's abdomen fairly 
drags with its weight of eggs. The eggs are laid in the earth. 
The larvae when first hatched crawl upon some flower, and as 
occasion permits, crawl upon a bee and thus are borne to the 
hive, where they feast on eggs, honey, and pollen. These in- 
sects undergo what M. Faber styles hyper-metamorphosis, as 
the larva appears in four different forms instead of one. The 
Spanish fly — Cantharides of the shops — is an allied insect. 
Some of our common blister beetles are very destructive to 
plants. 

WASPS. 

I have never seen bees injured by wasps. In the South, as 
in Europe, Ave hear of such depredations. I have received 
wasps, sent by our southern brothers, which were caught de- 
stroying bees. The wasp sent me is the large handsome Stizus 
speciosus, Drury. It is black, with its abdomen imperfectly 
ringed with yellow. The wasps are very predacious, and do 
immense benefit by capturing and eating our insect pests. I 
have seen wasps carry off "currant-worms" with a celerity 
that was most refreshing. 

As the solitary wasps are too few in numbers to do much 
damage — even if they ever do any — any great damage which 
may occur would doubtless come from the social paper-makers. 
In this case, we have only to find the nests and apply the 
torch, or hold the muzzle of a shot-gun to the nest and shoot. 
This should be done at nightfall when the wasps have all 
gathered home. Let us not forget that the wasps do much 
good, and so not practice wholesale slaughter unless we have 
strong evidence against them. 

SPIDERS. 

These sometimes spread their nets so as to capture bees. 
If porticoes — which are, I think, worse than a useless expense 
— are omitted, there will very seldom be any cause for com- 
plaints against the spiders, which on the whole are friends. 
As the bee-keeper who would permit spiders to worry his bees 
would not read books, I will discuss this subject no further. 

the king bird — Tyr annus Garolinensis. 

This bird, often called the bee-martin, is one of the fly- 
catchers, a very valuable family of birds, as they are wholly 



Enemies of Bees — King-Bird, Toads, Mice. 331 

insectivorous, and do immense good by destroying our insect 
pests. The king bird is the only one of them in the United 
States that deserves censure. Another, the chimney swallow 
of Europe, has the same evil habit. Our chimney swallow 
has no evil ways. I am sure, from personal observation, 
that these birds capture and eat the workers, as well as drones ; 
and I dare say, they would pay no more respect to the finest 
Italian queen. Yet, in view of the good that these birds do, 
unless they are far more numerous and troublesome than I 
have ever observed them to be, I should certainly be slow to 
recommend the death warrant. 

TOADS. 

The same may be said of the toads, which may often be 
seen sitting demurely at the entrance of the hives, and lapping 
up the full-laden bees with the lightning-like movement of 
their tongues, in a manner which can but be regarded with 
interest, even by him who suffers loss. Mr. Moon, the well 
known apiarist, made this an objection to low hives; yet, the 
advantage of such hives far more than compensates, and with 
a bottom-board, such as described in the chapter on hives, Ave 
shall find that the toads do very little damage. 

MICE. 

These little pests are a consummate nuisance about the 
apiary. They enter the hives in winter, mutilate the comb, 
irritate, perhaps destroy, the bees, and create a very offensive 
stench. They often greatly injure comb which is outside the 
hive, destroy smokers, by eating leather off the bellows, and if 
they get at the seeds of honey plants, they never retreat till 
they make complete the work of destruction. 

In the house and cellar, unless they are made as they should 
always be — mouse proof, these plagues should be, by use of 
cat or trap, completely exterminated. If we winter on the 
summer stands, the entrance should be so contracted that 
mice cannot enter the hive. In case of packing as I have 
recommended, I should prefer a more ample opening, which 
may be safely secured by taking a piece of wire cloth or per- 
forated tin or zinc, and tacking it over the entrance, letting it 
come within one-fourth of an inch of the bottom-board. This 
will give more air, and still preclude the entrance of these 
miserable vermin. 






332 Enemies of Bees — Shrews. 

SHREWS. 

These are mole-like animals, and look not unlike a mouse 
with a long pointed nose like the moles, to which they are 
closely related. They are insectivorous and have needle 
shaped teeth, quite unlike those of the Rodentia which in- 
cludes the true mice. I have received from Illinois and Mis- 
souri species of the short-tailed shrews — Blarina — which enter 
the hives in winter and eat the bees, only refusing the head 
and wings. They injure the combs but little. As they 
will pass through a space three-eighths of an inch wide, it is 
not easy to keep them out of hives where the bees are winter- 
ed on their summer stands. I have received a short-tailed 
shrew, Blarina brevicaiida, Gray, which was taken in the hives 
by Mr. Little, of Illinois. 



Calendar. 333 



CHAPTER XXL 
CALENDAR AND AXIOMS. 

WORK FOR DIFFERENT MONTHS. 

Though every apiarist will take one, at least, of the several 
excellent journals relating to this art, printed in our country, 
in which the necessary work of each month will be detailed, 
yet it may be well to give some brief hints in this place. 

These dates are arranged for the Northern States, -where 
the fruit trees blossom about the first of May. By noting 
these flowers, the dates can be easily changed to suit any local- 
ity. 

JANUARY. 

During this month the bees will need little attention. 
Should the bees in the cellar or depository become uneasy, 
which will not happen if the requisite precautions are taken, 
and there comes a warm day, it were well to set them on their 
summer stands, that they may enjoy a purifying flight. At 
night when all are again quiet return them to the cellar. 
While out I would clean the bottom-boards, especially if there 
are many dead bees. This is the time to read, visit, study, 
and plan for the ensuing season's work. 

FEBRUARY. 

No advice is necessary further than that given for January, 
though if the bees have a good fly in January, they will 
scarcely need attention in this month. The presence of snow 
on the ground need not deter the apiarist from giving his bees 
a flight, providing the day is warm and still. It is better to 
let them alone if they are quiet. 

MARCH. 

Bees should still be kept housed, and those outside still re- 
tain about them the packing of straw, shavings, etc. Fre- 
quent flights do no good, and wear out the bees. Colonies 
that are uneasy and besmear their hives should be set out and 
allowed a good flight and then returned. 



334 Calendar. 

APRIL. 

Early in this month the bees may all be set out. It will be 
best to feed all, and give all access to flour, when they will 
work at it, though usually they can get pollen as soon as they 
can fly out to advantage. Keep the brood chamber contract- 
ed so that the frames will all be covered, and cover well above 
the bees to economize heat. 

The colony or colonies from which we desire to rear queens 
and drones should now be fed, to stimulate breeding. By 
careful priming, too, we may and should prevent the rearing 
of drones in any but the best colonies. If from lack of care 
the previous autumn, any of our stocks are short of stores, 
now is when it will be felt. In such cases feed either honey, 
sugar, or syrup, or place candy on top of the frames beneath the 
oil-cloth cover. 

MAY. 

Prepare nuclei to start extra queens. Feed sparingly till 
bloom appears. Give room for storing. Extract if necessa- 
ry, and keep close watch, that you may anticipate and fore- 
stall any attempt to swarm. Now, too, is the best time to 
transfer. 

JUNE. 

Keep all colonies supplied with vigorous, prolific queens. 
Divide the colonies as may be desired, especially enough to 
prevent attempts at swarming. Extract if necessary, or best, 
adjust frames or sections, if comb honey is desired, and be 
sure to keep all the white clover honey, in whatever form 
taken, separate from all other. Now is the best time to 
Italianize. 

JULY. 

The work this month is about the same as that of June. 
Supersede all poor and feeble queens. Keep the basswood 
honey by itself, and remove boxes or frames as soon as full. 
Be sure that queens and workers have plenty of room to do 
their best, and do not suffer the hot sun to strike the hives. 

AUGUST. 

Do not fail to supersede impotent queens. Between basswood 
and fall bloom it may pay to feed sparingly. Give plenty of 
room for queen and workers, as fall storing commences. 



Calendar. 335 

SEPTEMBER. 

Remove all surplus boxes and frames as soon as storing- 
ceases, which usually occurs about the middle of this month ; 
feed sparingly till the first of October. If necessary to 
feed honey or sugar for winter, it should be done the last of 
this month. 

OCTOBER. 

Prepare colonies for winter. See that all have at least thir- 
ty pounds, by weight, of good, capped honey, and that all are 
strong in bees. Contract the chamber by using division boards 
and cover well with the cloth cover and chaff cushion. If the 
bees are to be packed, it should be done in October. Be 
sure that the frames of comb have a central hole through 
which the bees can pass. 

NOVEMBER. 

Before the cold days come, remove the bees to the cellar or 
depository, or place them in the clamp or earth. 

DECEMBER. 

Now is the time to make hives, honey-boxes, etc. , for the 
coming year. Also labels for hives. These may just contain 
the name of the colony, in which case the full record will be 
kept in a book ; or the label may be made to contain a full 
register as to time of formation, age of queen, etc., etc. 
Slates are also used for the same purpose. 

I know from experience that any who heed all of the above 
may succeed in bee-keeping — may win a double success — re- 
ceive pleasure and make money. I feel sure that many expe- 
rienced apiarists will find advice that it may pay to follow. 
It is probable that errors abound, and certain that much re- 
mains unsaid, for of all apiarists it is true that what they do 
not know is greatly in excess of what they do know. 



336 Axioms. 



AXIOMS. 



The following axioms, given by Mr. Langstroth, are just as 
true to-day as they were when written by that noted author: 

There are a few first principles in bee-keeping which ought 
to be as familiar to the Apiarist as the letters of the alphabet. 

First. Bees gorged with honey never volunteer an attack. 

Second. Bees may always be made peaceable by inducing 
them to accept of liquid sweets. 

Third. Bees, when frightened by smoke or by drumming 
on their hives, fill themselves with honey and lose all disposi- 
tion to sting, unless they are hurt. 

Fourth. Bees dislike any quick movements about their 
hives, especially any motion which jars their combs. 

Fifth. In districts where forage is abundant only for a 
short period, the largest yield of honey will be secured by a 
very moderate increase of stocks. 

Sixth. A moderate increase of colonies in any one season, 
will, in the long run, prove to be the easiest, safest, and 
cheapest mode of managing bees. 

Seventh. Queenless colonies, unless supplied with a queen, 
will inevitably dwindle away, or be destroyed by the bee-moth, 
or by robber-bees. 

Eighth. The formation of new colonies should ordinarily 
be confined to the season when bees are accumulating honey ; 
and if this, or any other operation, must be performed when 
forage is scarce, the greatest precautions should be used to 
prevent robbing. 

The essence of all profitable bee-keeping is contained in 
Oettl's Golden Rule: keep your stocks strong. If you 
cannot succeed in doing this, the more money you invest in 
bees, the heavier will be your losses ; while, if your stocks are 
strong, you will show that you are a bee-master, as well as a 
bee-keeper, and may safely calculate on generous returns from 
your industrious subjects. 

"jKeep all colonies strong." 



GENERAL INDEX. 



PAGE 

A B C of Bee Culture 12 

Acacia 265 

Albino Bees 37 

Alighting board 126 

figure of 126 

Alimentary canal 55 

figure of 55 

Alsike clover 266 

figure of 268 

time of bloom changed 267 

Amateur Bee-keepers 1, 5 

American Bee Journal 9 

Anatomy and physiology 43 

of bees 66 

of insects 43 

Anatomy of insects 43 

external 43 

internal 52 

Antennae of insects 46 

use of 47, 49 

Ants 24,251,327 

enemies of bees 327 

fondness for plant lice 251 

Apathus 29 

Apiary- 
arrangement of 152 

grape vine 153 

figure of 154, 155 

location of 116 

position of 152 

starting an 113 

Apiary grounds 152 

arrangement of 152 

for each colony 153 

Apidse 25 

description of 26 

larva of 26 

parasites among 24, 26 

Apis 30 

Apis dorsata 32 

nativity of 34 

search for 32 

Aristotle 39 

Arthropoda 20 

Articulate animals 19 

Artificial increase 190 

Asparagus 285 

Asters 289 

figure of 289 

Axioms 336 

Bacon Beetle 317 

Banana 265 



PAGE 

Barberry 262 

figure of 262 

Bark louse 249 

figure of 249 

how to destroy 250 

Barrels 213 

waxing 213 

Basil— Mt. Mint 285 

Bass-wood 278 

figure of 279 

Bee Books (see books) 11 

Bee bread (see pollen) 107 

Bee glue (see prop'uls) 109 

Bee hawk 324 

Bee house 300, 305 

figure of 306 

for winter 300 

Bee-keepers' Exchange 11 

Bee-keepers' Guide 11 

Bee-keepers' and Poultry Jour- 
nal 11 

Bee keeping 2 

how to commence 113 

form a plan 114 

get bees 114 

kind of hives 115 

kind to buy 115 

price to pay 116 

when to buy 115 

where to locate 116 

as to forage 117 

as to market 117 

as to society 116 

inducements to 2 

adaptation to amateurs ... 5 

adaptation to women 5 

adds wealth to the coun- 
try 8 

excellent as an avoca- 
tion 5 

excellent for mental cul- 
ture 7 

furnishes good food 7 

profits from 3 

recreation 2 

requirements for successful. 8 

aid from associations 9 

aid from books and pa- 
pers 9 

experience .' 8 

enthusiasm 14 

mental effort 8 

persistence 15 



Index. 



PAGE 

promptitude 14 

visits to others 9 

Bee killers 317 

Georgia. 319 

figure of 319, 320 

Louisiana 318 

figure of 318 

Missouri 317 

figure of 317 

Nebraska 318 

Bee louse 325 

figure of 326 

Bee moth 312 

cocoons of 314 

figure of 314 

galleries of 313 

figure of 313 

history of 315 

imago of 314 

figure of 314 

larva of 313 

figure of 814 

natural history of 313 

remedies for 316 

Bee papers (see papers) 9 

Bee poison — 

inoculation with 2 

Bees- 
collections of 30 

how to move 204 

induced into sections 216 

kinds in each colony 66 

never injurious to bloom 254 

sold by the pound 246 

species of 34 

to quiet 220 

by smoke 221 

other ways 221 

valuable to plants 254 

who may keep 1 

amateurs 1 

specialists 1 

who should not keep 2 

Beetles 317 

destructive 317 

bacon 317 

meal 317 

Bee tent 212, 224 

figure of 212, 225 

Bee trees 102 

how to find 162 

Bee veil 219 

figure of 219 

Beggar ticks 289 

Benton, Frank 32 

effort to get A. dorsata 32 

experience with other bees .. 34 

importing bees 32 

Bergamont 284 

Bevel gauge 125 

figure of 125 

Bibliography 39, 110 

Bingham smoker 222 

figure of 221 

Black bees 35 

points of superiority 195 



PAGE 

Blackberry 275 

Black gum 265 

Black sage 262 

figure of 263 

Blister beetles 329 

figure of 329 

Blood of insects 54 

Blood root 259 

Blue thistle— viper's bugloss 285 

Bombus 27 

Bonnet 41 

Boneset 283 

figure of 282 

Books 11 

A B C of Bee Culture 11 

Apiary, or Bees and Honey.. «13 

Bee-keeper's Guide Book 13 

Bees and Honey 12 

Bevan on the Honey Bee 13 

Blessed Bees 13 

Dzierzon's Rational Bee 

Keeping 13 

King's Text Book 12 

Langstroth on the Honey 

' Bee 11 

Manual of Bee Keeping 13 

Mysteries of Bee Keeping 12 

Quinby's Mysteries 12 

Rational Bee Keeping 13 

Text Book 12 

On Botany 291 

On Entomology 42, 110 

Borage 269 

figure of 269 

Borers in locust 275 

Botany 291 

Bessey's 291 

Gray's 291 

Bottom board 125 

figure of 126 

stationary 127 

Box hives 118 

Branch arthropoda 20 

Branch of the honey Bee 19 

Breathing system 21, 54 

figure of 21 

British Bee Journal 13 

Buckthorn 265 

Buckwheat 288 

figure of 288 

Bumble Bees 27 

Burying Bees 303 

Button bush 285 

figure of 283 

Cages 202 

Peet 202 

figure of 203 

Caging queens 198 

Judge Andrews' method 198 

Calendar 333 

Candy 203 

Good 203 

Viallon 203 

Carniolan .Bees 38 

Carpenter Bees 28 



Index. 



PAGE 

Catalpa 285 

Catnip 271, 285 

Caucasian .'. 38 

Cellar 301 

for wintering 301 

Chaff hives 298 

advantages of 298 

figure of 133, 299 

rules for use 299 

Chloroform 223 

to introduce queen 223 

to quiet hees: 223 

Circulatory organs 52 

Clamps for wintering 303 

Clark cold draft smoker 222 

figure of 222 

Class of the honey-bee 20 

Clipping queens 177 

why done 177 

how done 178 

Clover— 

Alsike 266 

Mammoth 275 

Sweet 267 

White 266 

Cold draft smoker 222 

figure of 222 

Colonies- 
how to move 204 

Cover— 

for frames 135 

cloth 135 

honey-hoard 136 

for hive 129 

figure of 129 

Comb 103 

cells of 105 

figure of 104 

function of 106 

how to fasten 160 

figure of 160 

why opaque, 106 

Comb-box or basket 211 

figure of 211 

Comb foundation 226 

American 227 

figure of 226 

history of 226 

machines 227 

roller 227 

figure of 228 

press 229 

figure of 229 

Comb-honey 243 

apparatus for procuring 141 

desirable 214 

fumigation of 217, 243 

high priced 243 

how secured 214 

marketing of 243 

rules for 243 

shipping crate for 244 

stored before shipping 217 

Comb stands 200 

Valentine's 200 

figure of 200 



PAGE 

Young's 201 

figure of 201 

Conventions 9, 240 

aid markets 240 

valuable , 9 

Coleoptera 24 

Columella 39 

Corn 275 

Cotton 276 

figure of 277 

Cow pea 252,276 

figure of ". 252 

Cow killer 327 

Crate 24^ 

shipping."... 244 

figure of 244, 245 

Crustacea 19, 20 

Culver's rdbt 285 

Cuvier 42 

Cyprian Bees 37, 196 

importation of 37 

points of superiority 37 

Dadant 243 

pamphlet of 243 

Dalmatian Bees 38 

Dandelion 259 

De Geer 40 

Digestive apparatus 55 

figure of 55 

Diptera 23 

Diseases of bees 309 

Dissection of insects 45, 61 

microscopes for 46 

figure of 46 

Dividing 190 

Division boards 136 

figure of 133, 136 

of perforated zinc 147 

figure of 146 

Dollar Queens 201 

rearing of 202 

Doolittle— income from bees 4 

Drones 79 

development of 81 

figure of 80 

function of 82 

jaws of 80 

ngure or 88 

leg of 80 

figure of 80 

mating of 81 

organs of 80 

figure of 58 

pure if queen is 82 

Dunham foundation machine... 228 

figure of 228 

Dysentery , 309 

Dzierzon 74 

theory of 74 

Dzierzon 's Rational Bee-keep- 
ing 13 

Eggs of insects 62 

development of 62 

figure of 64 



Index. 



PAGE 

Egyptian Bees 38 

Enemies of bees 312 

ants 327 

bacon beetles 317 

bee hawks 324 

bee killers 317 

blister beetles 329 

cow killer 327 

king bird 330 

louse 325 

meal beetle 317 

mice 331 

moth 312 

praying mantis 328 

shrews 332 

spiders 330 

stinging bug „ 321 

tachina fly 325 

toads 331 

wasps 330 

Entomological books 42 

Eyes 30 

of insects 49 

simple 49 

compound 49 

of bees 30 

figure of 31 

Extracted honey 212 

barrels for 213 

granulation of 242 

prevented 342 

reduced 242 

how kept 212 

marketing 241 

rules for 241 

ripening of 242 

tin cans for 213 

vessels for 241 

figures of 241, 242 

jars 241 

kegs 242 

p.iils 241 

Extracting and the extractor)... 205 
Extractor (see honey extractor). 206 

figure of 206 

wax (see wax extractor) 236 

Fabricius 41 

Fairs 246 

exhibiting at 246 

effectof 248 

figure of 247 

Family Apidse 25 

Family of Honey Bee 25 

Feeders 163 

can 165 

close bottom board for 167 

division board 165 

• figure of 165 

Shuck's 166 

figure 166 

Simplicity 166 

figure of 166 

Smith's 167 

figure of 167 



PAGE 

Feeding 163 

caution in 168 

how much 163 

how done 164 

in winter 295 

reason for 163 

what 164 

Female organs 60 

figure of 59 

Fertile workers 84 

remedy for 179 

when found :... 179 

Figwort 280 

California 276 

figure of 280 

Fire weed 291 

Food 164, 295 

Foot power saw 150 

Barnes' 150 

Foreign books and papers 13 

Apiary, or Bees and Bee Cul- 
ture 13 

Bee Keepers' Guide Book 13 

British Bee Journal 13 

Manual of Bee Keeping 13 

Modern Bee Keeping 13 

• Rational Bee Keeping 13 

Fossil honey comb 106 

figure of 106, 107 

Foul brood 309 

cause 310 

remedy 311 

symptoms 309 

Foundation 226 

American 227 

cutters 231 

figure of 231 

figure of 226 

history of 226 

how cut 231 

how fastened 233 

how made 230 

in wired frames 235 

use of 231 

in brood frames 232 

in sections 232 

wax sheets for 230 

how made 230 

Fountain pump 250 

Frames 130 

cover for 135 

D. A. Jones' 133 

figure of 133 

figure of 130, 132 

for sections 145 

figure of 144 

Gallup 131 

figure of 130 

guide for making 134 

figure of 135 

how made 132 

Langstroth 131 

figure of 130 

large 131, 146 

Quinby 130 



Index. 



PAGE 

figure of 130 

uniform 131 

wiring 133 

Genus apis 30 

species of 31, 34 

Genus of the Honey Bee 30 

Geoffrey 40 

German Bees 35 

Gill or ground ivy 275 

Given press 229 

figure of 229 

Glands of insects 56, 57 

Gleanings in Bee Culture 10 

Gloves 219 

Glucose 164 

Golden honey plant 284 

Golden rod 288 

figure of 289 

Good candy 203 

Grapes and Bees 253 

Gum — 

blue 285 

red 285 

Handling Bees 218 

rules for 218 

Harbison 4 

great honey yield of 4 

Heatherington 4 

honey secured by 4 

Head of insects 43 

organs of 43 

labium 43 

figure of 67, 85 

jaws 43 

figure of 44, 88 

maxillse 45 

figure of 44, 88 

antennae 46 

Hearing of insects 47 

Heart of insects 52 

Heath Bees 38 

Herzegovinian Bees 38 

Hexapoda 22 

Hives 118 

alighting board of 126 

figure of 126 

Bingham 139 

figure of 140 

bottom board of 125 

figure of 126 

■ stationary 127 

box 118 

cover of 127 

DeBeauvoy's 120 

Dzierzon 120 

early frame 119 

entrance to 126 

height of 127 

Huber 137 

Langstroth 120 

figure of_ 122 

movable comb 118- 

Munn 119 

figures of 119, 120 



PAGE 

new idea 147 

not patented 118 

observing 141 

figure of 141 

portico of 130 

Quinby 138 

figure of 138 

Schmidt 120 

story and one-half 129 

figure of 122, 123 

two story 128 

figure of 122, 128 

Hives and sections 118 

Hiving swarms 183, 185 

figure of.... 186 

Honey 99 

as food 7 

changed nectar 100 

composition of 99 

granulated 100, 210 

how to melt 210 

test of purity 100 

ripening of 100, 210 

source of 99, 249 

Honey-comb 103 

fossil 106 

figure of 106, 107 

Honey extractor 205 

how to use 211 

modern 206 

figure of 206 

origin of 205 

styles of 206 

use of 208 

when to use 209 

wire attachment 207 

figure of 207 

Honey knives 208 

figures of 208 

Honey locust 275 

figure of 277 

Honey plants (see plants) 249 

April 259 

May 261 

June 266 

July 278 

August 288 

table of 256, 257 

Honey vinegar 246 

Horehound 262, 271 

Horse mint 265 

figure of 265 

House apiary 305 

Huber hive 137 

Bingham style 138 

figure of 140 

Quinby style 138 

figure of 138 

Hunting bee trees 162 

Hymenoptera 23 

highest of insects 24 

parasitic 24 

Ichneumon flies 25 

Indian c arrant 291 

Indian plantain 285 



Index. 



PAGE 

Imago of insects 23, 65 

Increase of colonies 182 

dividing !.. 189 

to prevent 184 

Iron weed 285 

Insecta 20 

Insects 22 

Instinct in bees and ants 23, 24 

Intestines of bee 56 

Italians 35, 192 

importation of 35 

origin of 35, 37 

superior 193 

Italianizing 196 

Japan privet 265 

Jars for honey 211 

figure of 241 

Jones, D. A 32 

importing bees 32 

Judas tree 261 

figure of 260 

Kansas bee keeper 11 

Kegs for honey 242 

figure of 212 

King bird 330 

Lamarck 42 

Lamp nursery 176 

Langstroth, L. L 121 

Langstroth frame 131 

figure of 130 

Langstroth hive 120 

figure of 122 

size of 123 

Longstroth on the honey bee 11 

Larva of insects 22, 63 

figures of 63, 64 

LatreiUe 41 

Leach 42 

Legs of insects 51 

figure of 21, 89 

Lepidoptera 24 

Ligurian see Italian) 35 

Linn.'i 'us 259 

Liver leaf 40 

Locust 275 

honey 275 

figure of 277 

Locust borer 275 

remedy for 275 

Lupine 275 

Lyonnet 41 

Magnolia 277 

figure of 278 

Mailing queens 204 

Male organs 58 

figure of 58 

Mangrove 286 

black 286 

true 288 

figure of 287 

Malva 285 



PAGE 

Manual of bee keeping 13 

Manzanita 261 

Maples 259, 261 

sugar 261 

figure of 258 

Marketing : 239 

bees by the pound 246 

how caged 246 

figures of 246 

comb honey 243 

crates for 244 

kept for 244 

preparation for 244 

extracted honey 240 

rules for 239 

Mason bees 29 

Mating of queen 72 

delay in. 73 

in confinement 73 

marks of 73 

onl5 r once 73 

on wing 73 

Matrimony vine 275 

Meal 169 

feeding of 169 

Meal beetle 317 

Megachile 28 

Melipona 27 

Mice 331 

Microscopes 46 

figure of 46 

Milk weed 272 

pollen of 272 

figure of 272 

Mignonette 270 

figure of 269 

Mimicrv 23 

Mint 271 

figure of 270 

Mites' 22 

Modern Bee Keeping 13 

Mollusks 20 

Moth (see bee moth) 312 

Motherwort 271 

figure of 271 

time of bloom changed 272 

Mountain laurel 285 

Mouth organs 43 

variable 45 

Movable frame hives 128 

Munn hive 119 

Muscles of insects 52 

Mustard 273 

black 273 

figure of 272 

Chinese 273 

white 273 

Muth C. F 242 

Myriapods 21 

Mysteries of Bee Keeping 12 

Natural History of Bee 19 

Nectar ? 249 

from bark lice 249 

from cotton 253 

from cow pea 253 



Index. 



PAGE 

figure of 253 

from flowers 249 

from plant lice, see plant lice 250 

from sap 253 

Nerves of insects 52 

Nomada 29 

Nuclei 172 

hives for 172 

how formed 173 

Nursery 176 

lamp 176 

queen 177 

Observing hive 141 

figure of 141 

Okra 270 

figure of 270 

Order of honey bee 23 

Osmia 29 



Packing box : 

figure of 

Pails for honey 

figure of 

Palmetto 

cabbage 

figure of 

saw 

Papers .- 

American Bee Journal 

Bee-Keeper's Exchange 

Bee-Keeper's Guide 

Bee and Poultry Journal 

British Bee Journal 

Gleanings in Bee Culture 

Kansas Bee-Keeper 

Parasitic Bees .- 

Parthenogenesis 

seen in ants and wasps 

true of drones 

true of plant lice 

Partridge pea 

figure of 

Perforated zinc 147, 

division board of 

figure of 

use of 

Periodicals (see papers) 

Persimmon 

Piping of queen 

Plant lice 

apple tree 

figure of 

beech 

elm 

larch 

sycamore 

figure of 

willow 

Plants 

acacia 

alsike clover 

figure of 

asparagus 

asters 



296 

297 

241 

241 

286 

286 

286 

266 

9 

9 

11 

11 

11 

13 

10 

11 

29 

74 

74 

74 

74 

275 

276 

216 

147 

146 

216 

9 

265 

98 

250 

251 

251 

250 

250 

250 

251 

251 

251 

249 

265 

266 

268 

285 

289 



PAGE 

figure of 289 

banana ». 265 

barberry 262 

figure of 262 

basil 285 

bass-wood 278 

figure of 279 

beggar ticks 289 

benefited by bees 254 

bergamont 284 

blackberry 275 

black gum 265 

blood root 259 

Bokhara clover 267 

boneset 283 

figure of 282 

borage 269 

figure of 269 

buck thorn 265 

button bush 285 

figure of 283 

buckwheat 288 

figure of 288 

catalpa 285 

catnip 271, 285 

corn 275 

cotton 276 

figure of 277 

cow pea 252, 276 

figure of 252 

culver's root 285 

dandelion 259 

figwort 280 

California 276 

fire weed 291 

gill, ground ivy 275 

golden honey plant 284 

golden rod 288 

grapes 253 

gum, blue and black 285 

honey locust 275 

figure of 277 

for ornament 291 

honey poisonous 285 

horehound 262, 271 

Indian currant 291 

Indian plantain 285 

iron weed 285 

Japan privet 265 

Judas tree 261 

figure of 260 

locust 275 

honey 275 

lupine 275 

Magnolia 277 

figure of 278 

Mangrove 286 

black 286 

true 288 

figure of 287 

Malva 285 

Manzanita 261 

maples 259, 261 

sugar 261 

figure of 258 



Index. 



PAGE 

matrimony vine 275 

milk weed : 272 

pollen masses of 272 

figure of 272 

mignonette 270 

figure of 269 

mint 271 

figure of 270 

motherwort 271 

figure of 271 

time of bloom changed... 272 

mountain laurel 285 

mustards 273 

black 273 

figure of 272 

Chinese 273 

white 273 

okra 270 

figure of 270 

palmetto 286 

cabbage 286 

figure of 286 

saw 266 

partridge pea 275 

figure of 276 

persimmon 265 

poplar 261 

rape 273 

figure of 273 

raspberry 274 

rattle-snake weed 284 

rocky Mt. bee plant 283 

figure of 281 

sage 262, 271 

black 262 

figure of 263 

white 262 

figure of 264 

saw palmetto 266 

skunk cabbage 259 

sour wood, sorrel tree 285 

figure of 284 

spider plant 291 

figure of 290 

St. John's Wort 285 

stone crop 276 

sumac ...:. 262, 274 

California 262 

sun-flower 289 

figure of 289 

sweet clover 267 

figure of 269 

teasel 275 

figure of 275 

tick-seed 289 

tulip tree 274 

figure of 274 

varnish tree .*. 265 

verbena- vervain 285 

viper's bugloss 285 

Virginia creeper 285 

wheat 253 

white clover 266 

figure of 266 

wild plum 274 



PAGE 

wistaria 261 

American 261 

figure of 261 

Chinese 261 

figure of 262 

Pliny 39 

Plum— wild 274 

Poisonous honey 285 

Pollen— bee-bread 107 

how collected 108 

how carried 108 

function of 108 

source of 108 

substitute for : 169 

Pollen baskets 30 

Pollen masses 272 

figure of milkweed ^272 

Poplar 261 

Praying Mantis 328 

figure of 328 

Products of bees 99 

comb 103 

honey 99 

pollen 107 

propolis 109 

wax 101 

Profits of bee-keeping 3 

Propolis 109 

function of 109 

how collected 109 

soluble in 110 

source of 109 

Protozoa 20 

Pupa of insects 22,64 

figure of 64 

Queen 66 

clipping wing of 177 

development of 71 

cause of 72 

time for 72 

drone eggs from 75 

eyes of 68 

fecundity of 77, 78 

figure of 67 

food of 70 

from fecundated egg 68 

function of 77 

how caged 177 

in sections 216 

introduction of 196 

longevity of 76 

mating of 175 

how controlled 175 

entrance guard 176 

figure of 176 

marketing of '..... 245 

aided by fairs 246 

organs of 67 

figure of 59 

ovaries of 67 

figures of 59 

rearing of 169 

how done 169 

why important 169 



Index. 



PAGE 

sent by mail 204 

shipping of '. 202 

preparation for 204 

sterility of 77 

sting of 68 

tongue of 68 

figure of 67 

when active 78 

where to obtain 201 

young virgin 176 

easily introduced 176 

Queen cage : 197 

figure of 197, 198,203 

Queen cell 69 

transferring of 174 

figure of 174, 175 

Queen rearing 69 

lamp nursery for 176 

select carefully 170 

why necessary 169 

Queen register 180 

diagram of 181 

Quinby's Mysteries of Bee-keep- 
ing 12 

Quinby's Smoker 222 

figure of 221 

Races of bees 35 

black or German 35 

Carniolan 38 

Caucasian 39 

Cyprian 37 

Dalmatian 38 

Egyptian 38 

heath 38 

Herzegovinian 38 

Italian or Ligurian 35 

Smyrnian 39 

Syrian 37 

Radiates 20 

Rape 273 

figure of 273 

Raspberry 274 

Rational Bee-Keeping 13 

Rattle-snake root 284 

Ray 39,40 

Reaumur 40 

Register for queen 180 

figure of 181 

Reproductive organs 58 

female 60 

figure of 59 

male 58 

figure of 58 

Respiratory organs 54 

figure of 21 

Robber flies. 317 

figures of 317,318, 320 

Rotfbing 308 

remedies for 308 

when to expect 308 

Rocky Mountain bee-plant 283 

figure of 281 

when to plant 281 

Royal jelley 72 



PAGE 

Sage (see white and black 

sage) 262, 271 

Saws 150 

horse power "150 

figure of 151 

foot power., 150 

Saw flies 25 

Saw Palmetto 266 

Saw table 151 

figure of 151 

Scraper 180 

figure of 180 

Second or after swarms 97 

Secretory organs 56,57,87 

figure of 87 

Sections 142 

adjustment of 216 

dove-tailed 143 

form of 145 

fumigating 243 

getting bees from 217 

getting bees into 189, 216 

glassing 243 

in crates 148 

figure of 148, 149 

in frames 145 

figure of 147, 148 

nailed 144 

figure of 144 

one piece..... 144 

figure of 144 

one pound 144 

figure of 144 

prize 144 

figure of 144 

removal of 217 

separators for 143 

figure of 143 

small 216 

veneer 142 

block for making 142 

figure of 142 

Sense in insects 47 

hearing 47 

smell 48 

Separators 143 

tin 145 

figure of 147,148, 149 

why used 145 

wood 143 

Shade for bees 153 

evergreens 153 

grove 153 

grape vine 153 

figures of 154, 155 

Shipping 202 

colonies 204 

queens 202 

Shrews 332 

Sir John Lubbock 47, 48 

hearing in ants, etc 47 

Skunk cabbage 259 

Smell in insects 48 

Smoker 221 

Bingham 222 



Index. 



PAGE 

figure of 221 

Clark 222 

figure of 222 

how used 222 

origin of 222 

Quinby 222 

figure of 221 

Smyrnian bees 37 

Sour wood 285 

figure of 284 

Specialists as bee-keepers 1 

Spermatheca ' 60 

discovery of 60 

function of 60 

Spider plant 291 

figure of 290 

Spiders 22,330 

Spring dwindling 304 

preventive 304 

Starting an apiary 113 

Sterile queens 77 

Sting of worker 89 

figure of 90 

how used 90 

Stinging bug 321 

figure of 322, 323 

Stingless bees 27 

Stings- 
how to cure 223 

how to prevent 218 

bee tent 212, 225 

bee veil 219 

chloroform 223 

dress for ladies 220 

gloves 219 

smoke 221 

St. John's wort 285 

Stomach of insects 56 

Stone crop 276 

Storing 216 

side 216 

top 216 

Sub-class of insects 22 

Sub-class of the honey-bee 22 

Strong colonies 214 

how secured 214 

imperative to comb honey... 214 

Sumac 262, 274 

California 262 

Sunflower 289 

figure of 289 

Swarming 96, 182 

abnormal 98 

cut short 98 

preparations for 96 

prevented 188 

undesirable 182 

when it occurs 96 

why it occurs 96 

Swarming fever 215 

prevented how .". 215 

by manipulation 215 

Heddon's method 215 

Miller's method 215 

Swarmmerdam 39 



PAGE 

Swarms 96 

after 97 

piping before 98 

how secured 185 

figure of 186 

second undesirable 187 

prevented 188 

Sweet clover 267 

figure of 269 

Syrian bees 37, 196 

importation of 37 

superior how 38 

Tachina fly 325 

figure of 325 

Tailor bee 28 

cells of 28 

Teasel 275 

figure of 275 

Telephone to warn of swarming 184 

Test for honey 100 

Thorax 50 

muscles of 50 

figure of 51 

organs of 50 

legs 51 

wings 50 

Tick seed 289 

Toads 331 

Tongue 45 

of queen 68 

figure of 67 

of worker 84 

figure of 85 

Trachea 21 

figure of . 21 

Transferring 158 

Heddon's way 158 

old method 159 

Transformations of insects. .....22, 61 

complete .....22, 61 

incomplete 22, 65 

Trigona 27 

Tulip 274 

figure of 274 

Tulip tree bark louse 249 

figure of 249 

Uniting bees 303 

Varnish tree 265 

Veil 219 

figure of 219 

Verbena-vervain 285 

Viallon candy 203 

Viper's bugloss 286 

Virgin queens 73 

drone layers 73, 74 

Virginia creeper 285 

Vinegar 246 

Virgil 39 

Wasps 330 

Wax 101, 235 

composition of 102 



Index. 



PAGE 

expensive 102 

from carbor±5'drates 102 

pockets 101 

figure of 101 

save all.... 235 

how done 236 

scales 101 

figure of 101 

secretion voluntary 103 

"Wax extractor 236 

Swiss 236 

figure of 236 

Jones 237 

figure of 237 

White clover 266 

figure of 266 

Willow 260 

figure of 260 

Wings of bees 30 

figure of 30 

of insects 50 

White sage 262 

figure of 264 

Wintering 293 

by packing 296 

figure of 297 

disastrous why 293 

bad food 293 

extremes of temperature 294 

moist atmosphere in hive 294 

old bees 293 

in bee house 300 

in cellar 301 

in chaff hives 298 

figure of 133, 299 

method of 299 

in clamps 303 

safe 294 

requisites for 294 

good honey 295 

late breeding 295 



PAGE 

proper temperature 296 

how secured 296 

Wire for foundation 235 

Wistaria 261 

American 261 

figure of 261 

Chinese 261 

figure of 262 

Women as bee-keepers 5 

Worker bees 83 

development of 92 

figure of 83 

food of larva? 93 

from impregnated egg 92 

function of 95 

old bees 95 

young bees 95 

glands of 86 

figure of ." 87 

how they sip 86 

jaws of 88 

figure of 88 

legs of 88 

figure of 89 

longevity of 94 

mouth id arts of 84 

sometimes fertile 83 

sting of 89 

figure of 90 

how used 91 

stomach of 92 

tongue of 84 

figure of 85 

very numerous 83 

Worms 19,20 

Xylocopa 28 

Zinc 216 

perforated 216 



THE BEE-KEEPERS' GUIDE 

OR 

ZMZ^HSTTT^I-. OIF TIBIIE JsJ&TJLJEtTZ'. 

By -A-. «T. GOOISL, Lansing 3VCicliig£VTti 7 

Prof, of Entomology in the State Agricultural College. 

9000 SOIjD in six Y IE ^a. JEl S . 

350 Pages. 192 Illustrations. 

This is a new edition of Prof. Cook's Manual of the Apiary, enlarged and ele- 
gantly illustrated. The first edition of 3,000 copies was exhausted in about 18 
months — a sale unprecedented in the annals of bee-culture. 

The tenth 1,000 has been thoroughly revised, much new matter and many costly 
illustrations added, and has been produced with great care, patient study, and per- 
sistent research. It comprises a full delineation of the anatomy and physiology of 
the honey bee, illustrated with many expensive wood engravings ; the products of the 
Honey Bee; the races of bees; full descriptions of honey-producing plants, trees, 
shrubs, etc., splendidly illustrated; and last, though not least, detailed instructions 
for the various manipulations necessary in the apiary. 
Read the following opinions of the Book : 

I feel like thanking God that we have such a man as Prof. Cook to take hold of 
the subject of bee-culture in the masterly way in which he has done it. — Gleanings 
in Bee Culture. 

It is a book which does credit to our calling; one that every bee-keeper may 
welcome as a fit exponent of the science which gives pleasure to all who are en- 
gaged in it. — American Bee Journal. 

It is just what might have been expected from the distinguished author — a work 
acceptable to the ordinary bee-man, and a delight to the student of scientific api- 
culture. — Bee Keepers' Magazine. 

Cook's new "Manual of the Apiary," comes with high ecomiums from America, 
and certainly it appears to have cut the ground from under future book-makers for 
some time to come. — British Bee Journal. 

Prof. A. J. Cook's "Manual of the Apiary" contains, besides the description of 
the anatomy and physiology of the honey bee, beautifully illustrated, the product* 
and races of the bees, honey plants — the instructions for the different operations 
performed in the hives. All agree that it is the work of a Master, and is of real 
value. — L' AJ>iculteur, Paris. 

I have read with a great deal of interest the copy of Cook's Manual you sent me, 
and I intend to publish extracts from it in the "Bulletin" of the Society of Api- 
culture of the Department of the Somme, so that our apiarists may be aware of the 
value of this estimable work. It is a credit to the author as well as the publishers. 
I have never yet met with a work, either French or foreign, which I like so much. 
— L'Abbe L. DuBois, at La Malmaison Aisne, France. 

Every point connected with the subject is handled in a clear, exhaustive, yet 
pithy and practical manner. — Rural New Yorker. 

The most thorough work on the apiary ever published, and the only one illus- 
trating the various bee plants. — Lansing (Mich.) Republican. 

Treating the art in all its different branches in a clear, concise and interesting 
manner. — The Canadian Entomologist. 

It is the fullest, most practical, and most satisfactory treatise on the subject now 
before the public. — Country Gentleman. 

Prof. Cook's valuable Manual has been my constant guide in my operations and 
successful management of the apiary. — J. P. West. 

I have derived more practical knowledge from Prof. Cook's New Manual of the 
Apiary than from any other book. — E. H. Wynkoop. 

With Cook's Manual I am more than pleased. It is fully up with the times in 
every particular. The richest reward awaits its author. — A. E. Wenzel. 

We have perused with great pleasure this vade mecum of the bee-keeper. It is 
replete with the best information on everything belonging to apiculture. To all 
taking an interest in this subject, we say, obtain this valuable work, read it carefully 
and practice as advised. — Agriculturist, Quebec. 

I regard it as the best work on bees in the world. — P. L. Viallcn. 

It is so greatly superior to all the other works that I recommend no other. — D. A. 
Jones. 

Price, by mail, $1.25. Liberal discount made to dealers, and to newspapers who 
may desire to send it as a premium. 

a. j. Cook:, 

Lansing, Michigan, Author and Publisher. 



DUNHAM FOUNDATION MACHINE 



B5 



GO 




OKFERE, BROWN COUNTY, WIS. 

Your machirfes are undoubtedly the very best in existence for heavy foundation. 
November 24th, 1882. Charles Dadant & Son, Hamilton, 111. 

I send you samples of Foundation which I am manufacturing on one of your ma- 
chines, in sheets 9x18, which measure 11% feet to the pound. I think it superior 
to any samples of thin foundation I have seen. J. G. Whitten, 

August 14th, 1882. Genoa, N. Y. 

I have manufactured tens of thousands of pounds of Foundation on the Dunham 
machine and find that it does its work exceedingly well — thus far I have found 
none that will beat it. The bees accept and work out the foundation from this ma- 
chine much more readily and with more satisfaction than with any I have yet tried. 
I have also made with it Foundation for section boxes, fully as light, or lighter than 
any others. I have no interest in the Dunham machine, and the moment I can find 
its superior, I shall purchase one and discard my old machine. 

Beeton, February 10th, 1883. D. A. Jones. 



Tested Prize Queen, in a two-frame nucleus, 

9x17, each $4 00 

Same, in nucleus, four-frame, 8x8 4 00 

Tested Prize Queen, by mail 3 00 

'i Prize Queen, warranted purely fertilized 2 00 

Queen; not standard size 1 00 

Full Colony, eight-frames, Prize Queen 8 00 

Before June 25, add $1.00 each. 

Cash Orders filled in rotation. Address, 

TrC. L. -fcSRIGrGrS, 

Wilton Junction, Iowa. 




As a newspaper, The New York Tribune is held by readers of a quarter of a 
century, the best, purest, and most dignified in the United States. It covers the 
interesting current news of the whole world. Its reports are full and accurate. It 
is the only New York Newspaper that has its own telegraph line to Washington. 
No expense is spared. The Tribune has spent a million and a half dollars in one 
year. Its present prosperity enables it to disburse money as abundantly as the 
times ever demand for information in politics, business, education and society. 

It treats all sections of the country with liberality and fairness. It has sent spec- 
ial correspondents through the South, the Mining Regions of the West, the Wheat 
Regions of the Northwest, the Lumber Camps of Puget Sound, and other parts of 
the United States which have attracted attention. It expects to remain active in 
this work. It now has an agent in England, sent out especially to write up the 
operation of Free Trade in that country. 

The Tribune is a safe visitor in any family. Its language is always pure and 
dignified. It always fights that which degrades humanity, and strives to quicken 
ever}' proper aspiration. Everybody who reads The Tribune is the better for it, 
and many a successful man traces his rise in life to the inspiration of its columns. 

The paper remains entirely independent of pa r ty dictation and caucus control. 

It has the best poems, stories, and current literature of any paper. Its book re- 
views and art and dramatic criticisms are of marked and special ability. 

The paper is cheaper than ever before, and cheaper than any paper of its class 
in the country. Dr. Townshend, of the Ohio State University, gives it the credit 
of containing " more that one wants to know, and less that one doesn't want to 
know," than any paper with which he is acquainted. 

It recognizes Agriculture as one of the great industries of the country, and 
prints more information of value to farmers than any other daily paper. 

The Tribune has always been, and is, a warm advocate of the development of 
American industry, for the sake of strengthening the Republic, employing the 
whole population, giving a chance to all young men, and filling the country with 
peaceful and happy homes. 

To the working teacher of American common schools, The Tribune is a con- 
stant friend and daily help. It advocates an increase of pay to teachers. In all 
that will promote the efficiency and advance the dignity of the common-school sys- 
tem, it will be a cheerful and faithful worker. 

The Semi-Weekly Tribune has nearly all of the news of the Daily, and is, in 
some respects, the best, as well as the cheapest paper sent out from The Tribune 
Office. It contains all of the literary, agricultural, and domestic miscellany, and 
all the special articles prepared for The Weekly. It has besides most of its ed- 
itorial articles not strictly local in their application. It is printed in sixteen-page 
form. It is immeasurably the most successful Semi-Weekly in the country. 

The Weekly Tribune has the largest circulation of its class in the United 
States. Each week it contains a summary of all the news of the world, in such 
shape that busy men can read and enjoy. It has the letters giving the best news 
from foreign lands, and from time to time others describing the resources, attrac- 
tions and pursuits of different portions of the United States. It has a strong agri- 
cultural department, good market reports, and pages written for the benefit of 
ladies, giving accurate instructions in knitting, crochet, and kindred subjects. It 
also prints every year several good novels and stories, the cost of which in book 
form would be several dollars. 

A strong point of the paper is th^.t it is printed in large, plain type, suited to the 
eyes of studious readers. 

To those willing to form clubs for The Tribune, circulars, show bills and sam- 
ple copies of the paper will be sent in any desired quantity. 

rsr IE R.MS a 

The Weekly Tribune. — A single copy, one year, $2.00 ; five copies, one year, 
$1.50 each ; ten copies, one year, $1.00 each. 

The Semi- Weekly Tribune — Single copy, one year, $3.00; five copies, one 
year, $2.50 each ; ten copies, one year, $2.00 each. 

The Daily Tribune, including the Sunday edition, is $12 per year, $3 for three 
months, $1.20 for one month. Without the Sunday edition, $10 per year, $2.50 for 
three months, $! for one month. The Sunday edition alone is $2 per year. 

Remit by draft or Money Order. If the cash is sent, it should always be by reg- 
istered letter. Address 

THE TRIBUNE, New York. 



SCOVELL BEE SMOKER. 




Scovell's Hinged Nozzle Cold 
Blast Bee Smoker is the result 
of years of experiment, practi- 
cally applied by a practical me- 
chanic and well known bee mas- 
ter. The first "Scovell Smoker" 
was made in the spring of 1875, 
and was the first bee smoker — of 
which we have any record — to 
use the open or direct draft 
principle. Our smokers are of 
the largest size in use, of the 
best material, well made and 
nicely finished. Read what the 
people say. 




TESTIMONIALS. 

Dear Sir : — Your smoker will soon become very popular here. I never saw one 
that I like better. W. H. Andrews, McKinney, Texas. 

I think I have tried every smoker made except the "Quinby Double Draft," and 
find none better than yours. I shall take pleasure in recommending it. 

F. L. Wright, Plainfield, Mich. 

I have given the smoker three days trial while extracting, and my little son who 
runs the smoker, says "it beats Clark's, Bingham's, or the celebrated Root Sim- 
plicity, which in principle it resembles. It is the best smoker I ever used. 

B. F. Carroll, Dresden, Texas. 

It is simple in construction and not liable to get out of repairs, and completely 
"cold blast" as by no possibility can a blast of hot air be thrown from it. I consider 
it the ne plus ultra of smokers. J. E. Pond, Jr., Foxboro, Mass. 

Smoker came O. K., and it's a daisy. E. B. Vincent, M. D., Sumner, Ind. 

The successful use of cotton seed as a smoker fuel, and a smoker to burn the 
same, is a valuable acquisition to the bee keeper, where good smoker fuel is scarce, 
especially in the south, where cotton seed is so plentiful. You have indeed a 
valuable invention. Many thanks fop- the smoker sent. 

Yours, etc., Dr.. Win. R. Howard, Kingston, Texas. 

It costs nothing to give our smoker a trial. If it don't give satisfaction, notify us 
in ten days, by postal card and we will return all moneys paid for it. Regular 
retail price, SI. 00; by mail, $1.25. 

Address, SCOVELL & ANDERSON, Columbus, Kansas. 



\M*X\ 



ESTABLISHED XIV 1881. 

The Bee Keeper is a live monthly magazine devoted exclusively to bee culture. 
It has for its corps of regular correspondents and assistant editors some of the most 
practical writers and progressive bee keepers of the age. 

Prominent among its valuable features for 1883, will be a series of original articles, 
running through the whole volume, written expressly for beginners in the practice 
of the art of bee culture, by J. E. Pond, Jr., Fsxboro, Mass, and the Question 
Drawer, edited by the well known specialist, James Heldan, Dowagiac, Mich. 

The first aim of the Bee Keeper is to be the best and foremost bee paper in the 
world, to the end that bee culture, as a scientific and useful pursuit, may through 
its agency more rapidly develop into one of the most profitable and important 
industries of the globe. 

PUBLISHED AT SIXTY CENTS A YEAR. 



H. SCOVELL, Editor. \\ Tl . K. HOWARD, M. !»., 

Address Kingston, Texas, Associate Editor. 

SCOVELL & ANDERSON, Publishers, 

COL.UM.BUS, KANSAS. 



THE BRITISH EES JOUMAL. 



AND 



BEE KEEPERS' ADVISER. 

EST^-BIiISaED X873. 

Conducted by the Hon. Secretary of the British Bee-Keepers' Association- 

The British Bee Journal has hitherto been published monthly. 
Owing to the increased knowledge of Bee Culture, the formation of 
numerous County Bee-Keepers' Associations, and the development 
of the industry of Bee-Keeping generally throughout the United. 
Kingdom of Great Britain, it has been found necessary to increase- 
its pages, andto publish it at more frequent intervals. 

A new volume commences on May 1st in each year. 

OIST AND AFTER MAY 1st, 1883, 

The BRITISH BEE JOURNAL will be Published on the 1st and 
15th of every Month. 

Price Threepence; Post Free, Threepence-Halfpenny. 

The British Bee Journal is devoted to the interest of Bee- 
keepers, the promotion of Bee-keeping, and Bee-Keepers' Associa- 
tions and Clubs throughout the United Kingdom. It gives the 
fullest Reports of all Shows, Meetings, and Lectures, and contains 
the best articles by the highest authorities upon all subjects bearing, 
upon Bees and Bee-keeping. 

A principal feature of the British Bee Journal is the depart- 
ment allotted to 'Echoes from the Hives,' and 'Queries,' under 
various headings. Its readers resort to the Editor in all cases of 
difficulty in the management of their Bees, and no trouble or ex- 
pense is spared to obtain answers from the best authorities. 
SCALE OF CHARGES FOR ADVERTISEMENTS: 

Single Column — £ s. d. 

Threelines 1 6 

Per line afterwards 6* 

Inch of space _ 3 6- 

Quarter column 8 

Half do 15 0. 

Whole do 15 

Double Column — 

Page 2 10 0* 

Half page 1 7 6. 

Thirdpage 1 0^ 

Quarterpage 17 6 

Letters to the Editor, should be addressed 'The Editor, British 
Beet Journal, care Strangeways §• Sons, Tower Street, Upper St. Mar- 
tins' a Lane, London, W.CS 

23 



1831 THE CULTIVATOR 1883 



AND 



The Best of the Agricultural Weeklies. 



ENLARGED TO TWENTY PAGES, 



The Country Gentleman is the Leading Journal of American 
Agriculture. In amount and practical value of contents, in extent 
and ability of correspondence, in quality of paper and style of pub- 
lication, it occupies the FIRST RANK. It is believed to have no 
superior in either of the three chief divisions of 

Farm Crops and Processes, 

Horticulture and Fruit Growing, 

Live Stock and Dairying, 

While it also includes all minor departments of rural interest, such 
as the Poultry Yard, Entomology, Bee-Keeping, Greenhouse and 
Grapeiy, Veterinary Replies, Farm Questions and Answers, Fireside 
Reading, Domestic Economy, and a summary of the News of the 
Week. Its Market Reports are unusually complete, and much at- 
tention is paid to the Prospects of the Crops, as throwing light upon 
one of the most important of all questions — When to Buy and 
When to Sell. It is liberally Illustrated, and is intended to supply, 
in a continually increasing degree, and in the best sense of the 
term, a 

LIVE AGRICULTURAL NEWSPAPER. 

The Volume of The Country Gentleman has been LARGELY 
INCREASED in Contents by the addition of a Four Page Supple- 
ment, but the terms continue as follow, when paid strictly in ad- 
vance: One Copy, one year, $2.50; Four Copies, $10, and an 
additional copy for the year, free, to the sender of the Club ; Ten 
Copies, $20, and an additional copy for the year, free, to the 
sender of the Club. ' 

EW Specimen Copies Free. Address, 

LUTHER TUCKER &. SON, Publishers, 

ALBANY, N. Y. 



. BARNES' PATENT 

FOOT-POWER MACHINERY. 



COMPLETE OUTFITS. 

With, which Builders, Cabinet .Makers, Wagon Makers, and Jobbers 
in Miscellaneous Work, can compete as to Quality and Price with 
Steam-Power Machinery. 

WILL SEND MACHINES ON TRIAL IF DESIRED. 

Every Bee-Keeper should have an Outfit from these Machines 
for Hive-Making. 

We give the following 
letter from Mr. W. P. 
Hogarty, of Wyandotte, 
Kansas, to show their 
usefulness. He says: 
" If any criticise your 
Circular Saw, you can 
tell them I use it, and 
made all my Bee Hives 
for ninety-five stands of 
Bees including frames 
and section brace, and I 
feel perfectly able to do 
the work for one hund- 
red and fifty stands." * 
* * " In order that you 
may know the amount 
of work on each of my 
Hives, will say, they are 
two feet long, by two 
feet high, by about t*o 
feet wide. They are 
double walledand double 
bottomed, with two inch 
intervening; and in ad- 
dition to the nine frames, 
there are fifteen cases, 
each case containing 
two honey boxes and 
two division boards, and 
three boxes to contain 
chaff for winter protec- 
tion. You will see there 
is an immense amount 
of sawing to be done, 
but I have found your 
Saw equal to the task 
required of it." 

We will send our Illustrated Catalogue free on application. Say 
where you read this, and address 

W. F. & JOHN BARNES, 
No, 2094 Main Street, Rock ford, Winnebago, Co., 111. 




THE 151 BOD E PUSHED OS P-ItMIHG. 

Twenty-two Years Experience in Queen-Rearing, 



HENRY ALLEY, WENHAM, MASSACHUSETTS. 

Price by mail, in Cloth, Si. 00 per Copy. 

This work is intended to teach my New Method of Queen-Rear- 
ing ; it also gives my experience during the past 

Twenty-Five Years as a Practical Bee-Keeper, 

Twenty-two of which have been devoted to Queen-Eearing. The 
work is so 

"WRITTEN AND ILLUSTRATED 

That any Bee-keeper may understand the method given. It contains 

The Easiest, Simplest, Nearest to the Natural 

And most Scientific Method of Queen-Rearing by which 

THE CELLS ARE SO UNIFORMLY BUILT 

And Spaced, that each can be removed without injury to its neigh- 
boring cell, and a larger number of first-class cells produced with a 
given quantity of bees, than by any other process, and with 

LESS LABOR AJVD EXPE1N8E. 

It also contains new and valuable hints and ideas ; and one of the 
best descriptions of 

THE NEW RACES OF BEES 

Yet given to the public ; also, an essay on the best method of man- 
aging the Apiary in order to obtain 

THE LARGEST AMOUNT OF SURPLUS HONEY, 

Including, preparing and marketing the same, by one of the most 
prominent, practical and successful "Bee-Masters" in the country. 
This essay alone is worth ten times the price of the Book. 

Enclose the money in the presence of the Postmaster, at my risk. 

Send for Prospectus and Circular. 




IMPROVED 

HONEY EXTRACTOR. 



1888— New York. 



Our Honey Extractors 

Have always received the 
highest awards at all places 
where they have been placed 
on exhibition, and they have 
been exhibited in competition 
with every Extractor of any 
reputation in the United 
States. 

First prem;ums were award- 
ed them at the Michigan 
State Fair, in 1879, and again 
at same Fair in 1S80 and 1881. 
First premium at North-Eas- 
tern Bee-Keepers' Conven- 
tion, Feb. 11th to 13th, 1880. 
Also, 1881 and 1882. First 
premium at Queens County 
Agricultural Society, (largest 
Fair in New York State), Sept. 
28th to 30th, 1880, and highest 
award at the Great American 
Institute Fair, Sept. 15th to 
Nov. 27th, 1880. Also in 1882 
at the same Fair, they were 
awarded the medal of " super- 
ior excellence" {the highest 
given). . 

These Machines (five dif- 
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made up very strong, neat 
and durable. They are pro- 
vided with close fitting tin 
covers, handles, honey gates, 
etc., extract all sizes of combs, 
and even small pieces without 
frames. All bits of comb and 
specks rise to the top and the 
honey is run off clear as 
crystal without strainer. 

No. 1, 4 frame, holds over 200 lbs. honey, below basket. 

Bees-Wax Extractors, Bee Hives and Materials Read} to Nail, 

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Manufacture, etc., etc. 

Send for our NEW ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE, with Prices of aU the aboye 
and much more. 

PUBLISHERS OP THE BEE AND POULTRY MAGAZINE, $1.25 A YEAR. 



KING-, KEITH & CO., 



14 Park Place, New York. 



TIE BEE KEEPERS' EMU. 



A MONTHLY JOURNAL of 32 PAGES 



■DEVOTED TO THE INTERESTS OF- 



>Wl 



Is progressive and keeps abreast of all the modern 
improvements, in apiculture, 



No Bee Keeper should be without it. 



EVERY NUMBER IS WORTH THE PRICE OP A 
YEARS SUBSCRIPTION. 



It Costs only One Dollar per annum, or Three Months 
on trial for Twenty-five Cents, Post paid. 



Address, 



HOUCH & PEET: 



j 

CANAJOHARIE, N. Y 



IMi 



HAM'S Mil FOUNDATION MILL 



{Patented May 23 d, 1882.) 



Believing it to be to the interest of Bee-Keepers' to make their own Comb 
Foundation, at home, under their own personal supervision, I have labored for 
.more than three years to devise a Mill that would be both cheap and efficient. 

Having now perfected my invention, I submit it to the judgment of my fellow 
Bee-Keepers, believing it to be as good as any, and superior to some of the Founda- 
tion Machines heretofore made. 

The rolls of my Mills are made of hard type-metal. They are not formed into 
shape with a punch, but are cast in sections, by which means I can make the. 
grooves for forming sidewalls ~y a of an inch deep in the rolls. It will be readily 
seen that as the wax does not reach the bottom of the groove, the top of the side- 
wall is not pressed upon at all, but is left as soft as it is possible for any Machine 
to make it. 

By a simple device the upper roll may be raised to permit the end of the wax- 
sheet to be passed through at starting, without any impression, far enough to take 
hold of; the pressure is then put on by moving a single lever and the sheet rolled 
through. 

Samples of Foundation and Descriptive Circular will be sent on application. 



March, 18S3. 



WM. C. PELHAM, 

Maysville, Kentucky. 




106 Tremont Street, 

Under Studio Building, 

Opiical his 

ARTIFICIAL EYES, Ac. 

A Competent Optician 
always in Attend- 
ance. 

Examinations of the Eye Made without an Extra Charge. 

All Kinds of Optical Goods kept constantly on hand. 

x o jel o s» o o :f» :es s « 



We furnish Microscopes and Microscopical Apparatus of all kinds, Foreign and 
American, at the Lowest Prices. 

WE MAKE A SPECIALTY OP OODDIrTGTON LENSES. 

All Goods Warranted the best of the Kind. 
S. 51. TAX ALSTINE. BOSTON, MASS. B.T.HOWE. 



THE NEW ENGLAND APIARIAN, 



-PUBLISHED BY- 



"W."W\ MERRILL, 

Publication Day, 15th of each Month. 

P. 0. Box, 100. MECHANIC FALLS, MAINE. 

Terms, 75 Cents Per Year, in Advance. 



LIBERAL INDUCEMENTS TO AGENTS. 



DEVOTED TO THE INTERESTS OF THOSE ENGAGED IN BEE CULTURE, 

Each number containing articles of rare interest from the pens of 
eminent men, among whom may be mentioned 

JAMES HEDDEN, A. J. COOK, DR. MCLAUGHLIN, 
J. E. POND, Jr., J. B. MASON, G. W. DEMAREE, 
W.W.DUNHAM, E. A. THOMAS, W. HOYT, &c. 

Making each number instructive, rich and racy in matters per- 
taining to the fascinating profession of the Apiarist. 

Being the only Journal of the kind in the New England States, it 
offers the very best medium for advertisers to reach the many who 
are more or less engaged in business of supplying the markets with 
honey. 

The editor solicits questions and discussions that may tend to 
the advancement of light upon any of the interests or work of the 
Apiarist, and hopes by untiring zeal to make The New England 
Apiarian a welcome guest to the many homes of those engaged in 
Bee Culture in the New England States and in many homes in more 
remote regions. 

Will be pleased to send sample copies to any who may desire, as 
well as to receive your subscription for one year. 

All communications, etc., should be addressed to 

W.W. MERRILL, 

MECHANIC FALLS, ME. 



MUTH'S HONEY EXTRACTOR. 

All Metal, Always Beady, Easily Cleaned, Everlasting.^ ;^; ~ 




MUTH'S GLASS HOJSEY JARS. 

My one and two pound square Honey Jars have now been tested for years, and 
have not only found favor among dealers and consumers, but are also the most 
practical and best jars in the market, all points considered, and require no recom- 
mendation. As jars of honey are generally bought for table use, the best honey 
Only should be bottled. A neat label on each jar, with the producer's name plainly 
printed, will often serve as a reminder to the consumer of the place where the last 
mice honey was purchased. 

CHARLES I MUIH, 

No. 976 Central Aye., 

CINCINNATI, 0. 

Muth's Uncapping Knife. 

Send 10 Cents, for "Practical Hints to Bee-Keepers." Circulars Free. 




GLEANINGS 



BEE CULTURE, 

TERMS, $1.00 PER YEAR. 



Gleanings is a 52-page monthly, published the first of each 
month. A supplement, Juvenile Gleanings, of 16 pages, is pub- 
lished the middle of each month, thus giving reports semi-monthly 
of the state of Bee Culture in almost all regions of the globe where 
civilization extends. * 



A B C OF BEE CULTURE. 



A Book of 318 pages, and over 175 Illustrations. This is kept 
standing in type,^md corrected several times a year ;• thus when 
you buy it you are sure of a book that is up with the times. Price, 
in cloth, $1.25; in paper, $1.00. 



Apiarian Implements and Supplies. 

Our customers now number something over 75,000, and goods 
are shipped to all parts of the world. To keep pace with late im- 
provements and new inventions, our price list is kept constantly 
standing in type, and new editions are printed in the busy season, 
frequently as often as once a month. A sample copy of Gleanings 
and a price list, sent free on application. 

-A.. I. ROOT, 

MEDINA, OHIO. 



THE ORIGINAL PATENT 

DIRECT-DRAFT SMOKER 



OYER 



Patented 1878 and 1882. Re-issued July 9, 1878. 
TWENTY THOUSAND NOW IN USE. 

The Michigan Bee-Keepers' Association, having all 
the Smokers before it, " pronounced Bingham's Patent 
Smoker the best." 

J. P. Moore, Binghamton, New York, after using 
one some time, said: "My Smoker troubles are all 
over, and bee-keepers owe you a debt of gratitude." 

Professor Cook, of Michigan Agricultural College, 
says : " It is the best in the market." 

R. M. Argo, Lowell, Kentucky, says: "It is all that 
any bee-keeper could desire." 

Paul L. Viallon, Bayou Goula, La., writes, April 6, 
1878: "Your Smokers are far superior to any ever in- 
vented, and we bee-keepers owe you a vote of thanks 
for your ingenious invention. Many may try to im- 
prove on yours, but I am positive none will make a bet- 
ter one." 

Borodino, N. Y., August 15, 1882. 
• Cyprians Conquered. — All summer long it has been 
"which and tother" with me and the Cyprian colony 
of bees I have, but at last I am "boss." Bingham's 
Conqueror Smoker did it. If you want lots of smoke 
just at the right time, get a Conqueror Smoker of Bing- 
ham. Respectfully, 

G. M. Doolittle. 
BINGHAM & HETHERINGTON 




KT ES "ST 



r^ x :f* es 



Patented May 20, 1879. 




The most Extensive Bee-Keepers use them exclusively. 

The Knife is so constructed that only the thin beveled edge rests on the combs, 
and the caps, after being cut off, slide up in large sheets and roll over on the knife, 
like shavings from a sharp plane. As only the edge of the knife touches the honey, 
it does not wade and stick like other knives, but glides easily over curves, planes, 
and hollows, leaving the uncapped honey free from caps, and the cells as clean, 
perfect and smooth as if they had never been capped. They are two inches wide, 
tempered and finished like a razor, and will last for a life-time. 

We are practical bee-keepers, and first invented the Bingham & Hetherington 
Honey Knife and the Bingham Smoker for our own use in our own apiaries, be- 
cause such knives and smokers as bee-keepers need could not be had at any price. 
We are the patentees and exclusive manufacturers of our knives and smokers, and 
they are the only supplies we handle. While no other implements ever offered to 
bee-keepers have had such sale and universal commendation, we are glad to say no 
word of complaint has ever been made to us, or Knife or smoker returned. 

Prices. — The Conqueror Bingham Smoker 3 inch, $1 75 

Large Bingham Smoker, wide shield 2% " 1 50 

Extra Standard Bingham Smoker, wide shield 2 " 1 25 

Plain Standard Bingham Smoker, narrow shield. ..2 " 1 00 
Little Wonder Bingham Smoker, narrow shield. ..1% " 50 

Bingham & Hetherington Honey Knife 2 1 00 

If to be sent by mail, or singly by express, add 25 cents to prepay postage or ex- 
press charges. To sell again, apply for dozen or half-dozen rate. Send card for 
Circular. Address, 

BINGHAM & HETHERINGTON, Abronia, Mich. 




KEEPERS' 

28 Pages, 50 Cents Per Tear. 

SPECIMEN COPY FREE. 

A.. G. HILL, 

Kendallyille, Ind. 



GUIDE 



Gr. XXI 



BEE KEEPERS' SUPPLIES. 

Ill U MM Mill l« 

A New Chaff Cap, as a Winter Protector for 
the above Hive. 



3oxes, Honey w 



U 



All of which have been designed by the 
Manufacturer. 



Send for Prices. 



J±. G-. HILL, 

KENDALLYILLE, IND. 



ARTIFICIAL SWARMS. 



A. PAMPHLET O.F< SIXTEEN PAGES. 



A system by which Bees may be increased to the greatest ex- 
tent, without violating the laws of natural swarming. It gives a 
plan by which a moderate increase may be obtained, and is a system 
of Queen rearing. Every novice should read it. 

Sent to any address for two 3-cent stamps. 

A. G. HILL, Kendallville, Ind. 



ALFRED H. NEWMAN, 

DEALER IN ALL KINDS OF 

SEEDS for HONEY PLANTS 



SUCH AS 



Melilot, White and Alsike Clovers, 

Mammoth Mignonette, 

Cleome, Mustard, etc. 







Tin Pails for Marketing Honey. 



Bee Keepers Supplies 




INCLUDING 



Regs for Extracted Honey, 





i' I B 

,! Hi 



The Excelsior Honey Extractors, 

Comb Foundation— all styles, 

Bee Hives— nailed and flat, 

Sections, Crates and Frames, 

Smokers, Honey Knives, 

Bee Veils, Gloves, etc- 

^SEND FOR MY NEW ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE..^! 
923 West Madison Street, CHICAGO, ILL. 



The Only Weekly Bee Paper in the World 

AND 

THE OLDEST BEE PERIODICAL IN AMERICA. 




American Bee Journal 



TWO EDITONS— WEEKLY AND MONTHLY. 



Weekly, $2 a year; Monthly, $1 a year, in advance. 

Three or Six Months at the same rate. 
A Sample Copy of either free upon application. 



The American Bee Journal, established in 1861 as a 
Monthly, was, in 1881, also issued Weekly, and has not only 
fully sustained its former reputation, but is always advancing 
progressive ideas upon the various topics of Bee-Culture. 

It is the most Thoroughly Practical Publication on Bees in the World. 

The most successful and experienced Bee-Keepers in the 
World comprise its Corps of Contributors. 



As an Advertising Medium it is Unsurpassed. 



THOMAS G, 3STE"WI^-A-ISr, 

EDITOR AND PROPRIETOR, 

925 WEST MADISON STREET, CHICAGO, ILL. 



IF IR, I IE nsr ID S I 



If you are in any way interested in 






wwpm, 



s 







We will, with pleasure, send you a sample copy of our 



Monthly Mugs in See Culture, 

With a Descriptive Price List of the latest improvements in 

HIVES. HONEY EXTRACTORS. ARTIFICIAL COMB. 



SECTION HONEY BOXES, 



All Books and Journals, and Everything Pertaining to Bee Culture. 



USTOTIESIIIISrGh PATENTED. 



Simply send your address on a postal card, written plainly, to 



A.. I, ROOT, 

Medina, Ohio. 



HEADQUARTERS IN THE SOUTH 

For the* Manufacture and Sale of 

BEE-KEEPERS' SUPPLIES. 

The Only Steam Factory of Bee Hires in the South. 

COMB IF 1 O XT IN" T> -A. T X O HBT r 

MADE ON ROOT AND DUNHAM MILLS. 

ITALIAN BEES AND QUEENS A SPECIALTY, 

All bred from Imported Mothers of my own Importations. For further particu- 
lars, send for my Illustrated Catalogue. 

P. L. VIALLON, Bayou Goula, La. 



I will Mail my 20 page Price List of 

Italian, Cyprian and Holy Land Bees and Nuclei Colonies, 

Either in the American or Langstroth Frame, 

CHOICE TESTED, WARRANTED and DOLLAR QUEENS 

AND APIARIAIV SUPPLIES, 

To all who send me their name and address written plainly on a postal. 

H. H. BROWN, Light Street, Col. Co., Pa. 
SSAIDQUAJEIT£:XI.S~ 

FOR 

PURE ITALIAN QUEENS, CULUNIES ANU NUCLEI, 

Extractors, Bellows-Smokers, Knives, Foundation, 
Veils, Gloves, Bee Books, Sample Hive, etc. 

Being only 2% hours from San Francisco, my facilities for shipping Colonies by 
Sea cannot be equalled. Can superintend all Colonies on board Steamer at San 
Francisco, if required. For particulars and Price List, address, 

J. D. ENAS, Sunnyside, Napa P. 0., Cal. 

HBADQ,TJAE>TERS I35T" TEXAS 

For the Manufacture and Sale of All Kinds of 

BEE-KEEPERS' SUPPLIES. 

HOWARD'S SOUTHERN REE RIVE, GALLUP FRAME a Specialty, 

WIRED COMB FOUNDATION, in Gallup and Langstroth Frames, to Order, 
on the Giren Press. 

ITALIAN BEES, QUEENS, etc., AT REASONABLE RATES. 

Send for Catalogue and Price List. 

Address DR. WM. R. HOWARD, Kingston, Hunt County, Texas. 




Whitman's Fountain Pump. 



As a remedy to prevent Bees going to the woods, we have 
never found anything half as useful as the Fountain Pump 
— Bee-Keepers' Magazine. 

THE FOUNTAIN PUMPS 

Are used for showering Bees when swarming, to cause 
them to light and cluster. 



A***"-. 



HP 

mil 

'.-■■% 

Ill 



g ' ' 



A Lady or Child can use 
it easily. 



WASH BUGGIES. 



Sprinkling Plants 
and Vines. Used in 
any position. 



8®° Send for large Illus- 
trated Circular. 

J. A. WHITMAN, 

Patentee and Manufacturer 
Providence, R. I. 



FOUNDATION. 



WHOLESALE AND RETAIL. 



Dealers in Bee Supplies will do well to send for our Wholesale 
Prices of Foundation. We now have the most extensive Manufac- 
tory of Foundation in the country. We send to all parts of the U. S. 

We make all standard styles, and our wax is nowhere to be 
equaled for cleanliness, purity, and beauty. Extra thin and bright 
for sections. All shapes and all sizes. Samples free on request. 

CHAS. DADANT Sc SON, 

Hamilton, Hancock Co., III. 



^SKT. Zi- 



UTC 



ijxts 



KT, 



Rogersville, Genesee County, Mich., 

Makes a Specialty of Rearing Fine 



LJL_J_JLJ 



The Lewis One-Piece Section. 



All Queens bred from Imported Mothers, and from the best Home-bred Mothers; 
and the Cells built in full Colonies. No Black Bees in this vicinity. 
Tested Queens, before June 1st, $3.00 each. During June, $2.50 each. After 
July 1st, $2.00 each. Untested Queens, before June 1st, $1.50 each. During June, 
Single Queen, $1.^5; Six, or more, $1.00 each. After July 1st, Single Queen, $1.00, 
Six for $5.50, Twelve for $10.00. Safe arrival guaranteed. 
Make Money Orders payable at Flint. 

Hives, Sections, &c. 

Langstroth, Simplicity and 
other Hires. 

We make the one-piece, two- 
piece, or four piece dovetail or 
nailed Sections, any size, ■ from 
half-pound to 6x6x2 inches, or any 
other Supplies for Bee-keepers, 
made of wood. The Lewis Two-Piece Sections. 

434x434 of any of the above kinds of Sections, $4.50 

All other^sizes, larger to 6x6 5.00 

Half-pound Sections 3.50 

Send for Price List and Illustrations of our NEW HIVE for Comb Honey — 
Something new, just out. Price Lists will only be sent to those that write for them. 

G. B. LEWIS, Watertowa, Jeff, Co., Wis., January 1, 1883. 

I. IES. G-OOD, 

OF NArANEK, ELKHART COUNTY, 1ND., 

Makes the Rearing of Fine 

HOLY LAND AND ITALIAN QUEENS A SPECIALTY. 

Over One Hundred Colonies of Holy Land Bees in Holy Land Apiary. 

MANUFACTURER OF GIVEN COMB FOUNDATION. 

Highest Cash Price Paid for Bees-Wax. Send for Price List. 

300 COLONIES of BEES for SALE. 

Also, HiveR, Foundation, Extractors, Sections, Smokers, Frames, &e. 

I keep a complete Stock of everything needed in a first-class Apiary. I make a 
specialty of Queen-Rearing, and can fill orders promptly for all the different varie- 
ties of Bees. My Nucleus Colonies, and Full Colonies, give perfect satisfaction. 
I keep constantly on hand, Seeds for Bee Pasturage. Satisfaction guaranteed. 

Send for Circular and Price List, to 

£3. t. :f* Xj ^ isr^k. Gr -a. jxr, 

PROPRIETOR OF 

ROSE HILL, LAKE, CAHOKIA lU PALLIN6 SPRING APIARIES. 

Bellville, St. Clair CJounty, 111. 

The very best reference given as to Financial Standing if desired. 



ID. .A.. JONES, 



BEETON, ONTARIO, CANADA, 



-Dealer in all Kinds of- 



APIARIAN SUPPLIES, 

Bees and Honey. 



My honey and experimental bee farms are in and around Beeton, 
and my queen-rearing establishments are located on Georgian Bay, 
far from shore, and a sufficient distance from each other to insure 
pure fertilization. 

I am the first importer of the famous Holy Land bees from Pal- 
estine and Syria, and I now import Holy Land, Cyprian and Italian 
bees ; but those raised at my breeding establishments on the Georg- 
ian Bay are just as pure as the imported stock, and are superior, as 
they are bred with great care, and they do not have to stand the 
long journey across the waters from Asia. 



HONEY KNIVES. 

My honey knives are acknowledged to have no equal. They were 
invented and designed by myself, after a thorough test and trial of 
all others of note, and they combine the good qualities of all the 
others. They are manufactured of the finest razor steel, and bear 
a very fine edge and mirror polish. 

HONEY LABELS. 

My honey labels are the finest and cheapest in the world. They 
are designed for both comb and extracted honey; are printed in 
nine different colors, all blended together, making a fine chromo 
label, and varnished, and got up in sizes to suit packages from 2 
ounces upward. Should they become soiled, they may be wiped off 
by a damp cloth. 

GENERAL SUPPLIES. 

A full supply of Hives, Smokers, Foundation (both brood and 
section), Sections, Perforated Metal, Bee-Guards, etc., etc. 

Honey Tins in all sizes, from 2 ounces to 5 pounds. 

I can supply everything required in the management of the small- 
est or largest apiary. 



* 



